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unlocking the secrets to the perfect cut? - need help finding a beautiful stone

sek

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jan 21, 2020
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1
Hi hope everyone are happy and healthy.

First time poster, long time reader - love the candid discussion! I have learnt so much.. however there is so much to learn and so many differing opinions that it is so overwhelming. I wanted to make a post to just say hello and check my progress to see if I am on the right track to finding some quality diamonds. Please forgive me for my post etiquette, let me know I can improve

First a little background - I am from Hong Kong and over here everyone knows someone who is in the diamond business - "guaranteed" to get me "good" stones for "good" prices. I have been to several of these so called hook ups and sales pitch always starts off the same... I'm given the size, colour and clarity on a couple of stones and prices for them. There is usually an expensive D VVS1 or IF, a budget stone and a stone somewhere in between. But when I run those stones through the HCA tool, none of them are even worth a second look...

So now I have gotten inventory lists from some vendors and combed through them stone by stone, filtering out stones that match the proportions for depth, table, crown and pavilion as provided by some guides and google images of ideal diamond proportions. I love that I can instantly whittle down over a thousand stones just by making sure all the values fall between the range. I then ran the stones through the HCA tool and got great? results for them.

- Here is my first question: many have said that the HCA should only be used as an elimination tool as it is only as good as the inputs and GIA values are percentage based and rounded off so it isn't very accurate. Is this the best way to go about it when I am given an inventory? Am I overlooking a lot of stones that have also have a lot of shine and sparkle but are cheaper because they are not your typical ideal cut proportions?

My next step would be to see these stones and I am planning to see them over the weekend, however that is another beast that I have not even begun to wrap head around yet. I have visited a dealer once before and seen some real stones close up. I understand basic things like that the inclusions will be a a big factor to consider, especially if they appear on the table. or how symmetrical the diamond actually is when you look at it under an idealscope. I am more interested in how to tell the difference between the shine - What am I looking for that can tell me which stone has the best sparkle? How should I view it in order to give me the best idea? If I am just going for light return, fire, scintillation ignoring the colour (partly because it will be mounted in gold, and partly because I just want to understand cut and how that makes the diamond sparkle) How do I make a decision while I'm there when I am comparing the stones side by side?

I have questioned many times over this past year whether it is worth going so deep down this rabbit hole, but the more I read the more I realise how lucrative this business can be. Especially since this is just a one time purchase for most people, so they don't think that much thought needs to be put in. Have I succeeded in being an informed consumer?

Thank you so much for your time and honest opinions. Also any recommendations to some great books or online resources would be greatly appreciated, it has been a real journey weeding out when is real and what is creative marketing.

TL;DR Here are some diamonds I have picked out that have fit my rudimentary criteria for ideal cut proportions that mostly have been gathered through google images. I would love your feedback and discussion. Ultimately this is for an engagement ring between 0.8-1.2ct and some studs around 0.3 each for some earrings/pendants.

HCAWeightColorClarityCut/Polish/SymFlrIntensMeasurementCrown HeightCrown AnglePavillion HeightPavilion AngleLabLab Report NoVideoKeyToSymbols
1.21.53EVVS23EXFNT7.44 - 7.45 * 4.551534.54340.8GIA7342250452https://v360.in/DiamondView.aspx?d=DR1830&cid=diamond360Pinpoint
0.71.02KSI13EXMED6.45 - 6.49 * 3.9715.534.542.540.6GIA1333160601https://v360.in/DiamondView.aspx?d=LP-19/350&cid=diamond360Crystal, Feather, Cloud, Indented Natural, Natural
1.30.97DVVS13EXFNT6.35 - 6.40 * 3.9315344341GIA6321296870https://v360.in/DiamondView.aspx?d=H-1721&cid=diamond360Pinpoint, Feather
1.41.06DVVS23EXFNT6.59 - 6.62 * 4.0315354340.8GIA5343938489https://v360.in/DiamondView.aspx?d=I-1436&cid=diamond360Pinpoint, Cloud
0.91.02HSI23EXNON6.48 - 6.49 * 3.9915354340.6GIA6325690252https://v360.in/DiamondView.aspx?d=DR1242&cid=diamond360Crystal, Cavity, Feather, Needle
0.91.00DSI13EXNON6.42 - 6.45 * 3.99163542.540.6GIA2316068704https://v360.in/DiamondView.aspx?d=LP-18/141/G-1486&cid=diamond360Crystal, Feather, Cloud, Cavity
1.40.83ISI23EXNON6.03 - 6.07 * 3.7315.5354340.8GIA7326561547https://v360.in/DiamondView.aspx?d=DR1236&cid=diamond360Crystal, Feather, Knot
1.10.35EVVS23EXNON4.54 - 4.56 * 2.781534.54340.8GIA5353239224https://v360.in/DiamondView.aspx?d=I-1719&cid=diamond360Needle
1.10.35DVVS23EXNON4.51 - 4.54 * 2.781534.54340.8GIA1347752895https://v360.in/DiamondView.aspx?d=DR2029&cid=diamond360Needle, Pinpoint
0.80.32EVS13EXNON4.39 - 4.42 * 2.7215.53542.540.6GIA6341717360https://v360.in/DiamondView.aspx?d=DR2041&cid=diamond360Crystal, Needle
0.90.30DVS13EXFNT4.29 - 4.31 * 2.6615.5354340.6GIA6351149626https://v360.in/DiamondView.aspx?d=I-1555&cid=diamond360Crystal, Pinpoint, Needle
0.90.38DVVS23EXFNT4.66 - 4.69 * 2.8615344340.8GIA2327297341https://v360.in/DiamondView.aspx?d=H-1538-2&cid=diamond360Pinpoint, Cloud
 
So I know nothing about the hca, however I will comment from my perspective of upgrading my diamond last year. (Mine is not a round stone so hca doesn't apply)

To me , I needed mind clean in a stone & was not willing to go to si. You need to know if you're ok with that or not.
Second, cut makes a massive difference.
I saw stones that were so shallow, they were almost flat on the bottom.
Then there was a stone graded IF but had a facet line right across the table that looked like a huge crack.
Often times facets are slightly wonky or off kilter & not totally symmetrical which can be very offputting.
Finally, make sure the stone looks good from the side, not just the top, because the ring wearer sees the stone from the side more often than the top.
 
Are all the ones in your table under 2 on the HCA? And is the wearer ok with a noticable warm stone? A K will look very different from a G, for example.

Edit. Ignore the first question, mobile cut off the first column of the table where you put the HCA score. Sorry! But the question about color is important.
 
also I can't see videos or images for any except 2 stones, so can you try re linking them? Can others see the video/images on the links? I get taken to the viewing website but everything is blank.
 
Personally, I would eliminate the I and K and the SI1 and SI2 stones.
 
Personally, I would eliminate the I and K and the SI1 and SI2 stones.

I dont think people need to avoid SI1 as long as there are clear pics/videos. But SI2 is risky without having a vetted vendor look at it first.
 
I dont think people need to avoid SI1 as long as there are clear pics/videos. But SI2 is risky without having a vetted vendor look at it first.

The SI stones all list naturals, indented natural, knots, clouds, etc. In lower clarity, those can be real issues and personally, with so many other options, I wouldn't compromise with those inclusions.
 
Oh yeah, knots are a dealbreaker for me
 
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