Unenhanced Blue Sapphires

[Jude]

Hi there,

Ugg! Where do I begin? I have so many questions on this subject and it seems I have more questions the more I research. I have just returned from a major jewelry store where I tried on a beautiful 3 carat cushion cut "unenhanced" blue sapphire. And, I am finding this process a bit intimidating. Is
the term "unenhanced" equivalent to "non-heat treated"? I do see a difference in color between the non-enhanced and enhanced sapphires, however I thought these unenhanced sapphires were virtually impossible to buy?

1. What is the going rate on this type of sapphire?

2. Can I make an educated purchase on my own or do I need a broker? And, if so can anyone recommend one in the Bay area?

3. Are jewelry marts a good alternative from local jewelry stores regarding gems? I know many individuals who have purchased diamonds at the mart as well as online. But, I have never known anyone to purchase a gem.

4. What is the most important quality(ies) to look for when purchasing an "unenhanced" blue sapphire?

Any information would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you, Jude

 

[innerkitten]

I'm not sure that unenhanced means unheated. If your looking for unheated I would say so. I've been after the same type of thing actually. Unheated sapphires usually cost more than heated ones. As far as color goes it varies from sapphire to sapphire.
p.s. I live in the Bay Area too.

 

[innerkitten]

www.sapphires.ca says all there sapphires are unheated.

 

[valeria101]

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On 11/13/2003 7:35:48 PM Jude wrote:


#1 Is the term 'unenhanced' equivalent to 'non-heat treated'?
YES. It should. Unenhanced means natural stone without any form of enhancement (heat or whatever). The seller should explain how they determined the untreted status of the stone.

#2 I do see a difference in color between the non-enhanced and enhanced sapphires...
Enhancement is meant to improve color and clarity, so sure, you will se an AVERAGE difference. But, the ultimate price is dictated by color in ecah category. Virtually sll natural stones would carry a premium (if worth it, some are not enhanced because enhancement is not possible or would simply be ineffective), but among enhanced as among unenhanced color makes the price.

#3 What is the going rate on this type of sapphire?
Depends on too many things to tell. A premium of up to 40% over heat enhanced stones is acceptable, but... depends.

#4. Can I make an educated purchase on my own or do I need a broker? And, if so can anyone recommend one in the Bay area?
Broker is a good idea for colored stones of value. No idea about the area... the net is good too!

#5. Are jewelry marts a good alternative from local jewelry stores regarding gems?
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO Stay away from those stores. First, their average selection is a good sample of what you should never spend money on. Good sapphires are simply too rare for such businesses.

#6. What is the most important quality(ies) to look for when purchasing an 'unenhanced' blue sapphire?
COLOR!

 

[Jude]

Thanks for your response. I will keep researching...Have a good day. Jude

 

[Jude]

Thank you for your expertise on this subject. I definitely have seen enough sapphires and their different hues. I believe there is a significant difference in color between unenhanced and enhanced. And, those that have been treated look too blue, almost fake. But, now I am worried that just because a gem is unenhanced doesn't mean it's quality.

I have read on this forum that individuals should be able to take the gem/diamond to get it appraised by an outside expert. How is this possible without actually purchasing it first? Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you, Jude

 

[valeria101]

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On 11/14/2003 11:36:56 AM Jude wrote:



#1 I definitely have seen enough sapphires and their different hues. I believe there is a significant difference in color between unenhanced and enhanced.

Sure, whyle it is possible to see unenhanced ones in any hue, they rarely look as good as to appear fake.

#2 I have read on this forum that individuals should be able to take the gem/diamond to get it appraised by an outside expert. How is this possible without actually purchasing it first?

This is a Q the seller should answer. This I never done. It seems that with diamonds workds two ways: either the seller send the stone for certification prior to your buying, or you get the stone shipped for appraisal while payment in escrow. Maybe asking about details of how it works for diamonds would help. Unfortunately I am farr too risk-prone to go this way (besides, try to find an independent gem Appraiser in Romania or Bulgaria!, then when I got to buy in better places I would skip the option voluntarily).

As for my 'expertise', I am just a sapphire nut who has spend far too much effort, for far too long on the matter.

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[Colored Gemstone Nut]

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On 11/14/2003 11:36:56 AM Jude wrote:

Thank you for your expertise on this subject. I definitely have seen enough sapphires and their different hues. I believe there is a significant difference in color between unenhanced and enhanced.

Jude,

I think there is definitely a difference between high quality sapphires and low quality sapphires.

In most cases you will not be able to tell the difference between a fine natural and a heated sapphire if they share the same color characteristics (saturation, tone, vividness).

This is why it is so important to have the gem looked at by an independent appraiser or sent to one of the labs which grade colored gems.

There are inclusion characteristics seen in heated gems which differ from those of naturals.

When buying a fine quality colored gem you should always get an independent appraisal, because in these circumstances you are paying a premium for the stone if it is marketed as a natural...

 

[valeria101]

----------------
I think there is definitely a difference between high quality sapphires and low quality sapphires.----------------

Hi Josh!

Just look at those two avatars of ours, they could be brothers. Where is that awesome blue thing from? I hope I have not asked this before...

 

[Sagebrush]

Jude,

A new book, Secrets Of The Gem Trade, The Connoisseur's Guide To Precious Gemstones by Richard W. Wise is a good source for answers to your questions. As luck would have it you can read the chapter on blue sapphire FREE online at www.secretsofthegemtrade.com.

Dick

 

[Colored Gemstone Nut]

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On 11/15/2003 10:14:21 AM valeria101 wrote:

----------------
I think there is definitely a difference between high quality sapphires and low quality sapphires.----------------

Hi Josh!

Just look at those two avatars of ours, they could be brothers. Where is that awesome blue thing from? I hope I have not asked this before...
----------------

Hey Val

The stone is one of the fine sapphires offered on this site...I think this is one of the best sites which sell incredible blue which I have come across on the net...

www.walterarnstein.com

 

[Sagebrush]

Some caveats on sapphire

There are many ways to treat "enhance" sapphire. I put the word enhance in quotes because you must be careful of terminlolgy. Enhance is the word prefered by The American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) and one you will hear often, it means the same as treatment, something has been done to the stone other than cutting and polishing.

95% of all blue sapphire currently in the market is enhanced. 90% or more has been treated by heat, a method that goes back at least two thousand years. Heat treatment is more or less accepted. Nothing is added, the stone is heated, sometimes it gets better, sometime it blows up sometimes nothing happens. Point is, the relative rarity of fine to poor quality is retained. It can only do what the titanium/iron ratio inside the stone will allow. Heated stones sell for up to 30% less than natural color sapphire. Another normally encountered treatment, surface diffusion is a bad one: Basically the stone is painted with a flux and the color baked in. The color is skin deep and underneath it is a colorless sapphire worth maybe $50 per carat. Stones treated this way can look really good but should sell for pennies on the dollar compared to natural or heated sapphire.

WARNING; There is a new treatment, perhaps two new treatments being used by our brothers and sisters, the heat treaters of Bangkok to enhance blue sapphire. A couple of years ago these wily ladies and gentlemen discovered that if you added a bit of berylium powder to the mix, you could actually turn orange sapphire into padparadascha sapphire, essentially orangy pink sapphire. This was actually a new type of diffusion where the molecules of beryl actually permeated the entire stone. This is called "deep" or "lattice diffusion". The new treatment may be this applied to blue sapphre using and as yet unknown flux or it may be something else that causes some sort of internal diffusion similar to the effect of standard heat treatment, maybe both!

What does all this mean? Don't know yet. First gemologists have to figure out the method then the market decides how to price it.

For the consumer? Buy from a knowledgeable dealer, preferably a G.G. who will state clearly on the sales receipt that the stone is natural or heated and will submit the stone to a lab as part of the sales agreement and most important will accept return refund if the stone doesn't make the grade. Should you buy heated or natural? Up to you, both are well established in the market.

what about visual appearence? Normally heating muddies the crystal, that is the transparency of the stone is reduced when compared to natural. This leads some poor souls to think they can tell the difference by eye. Forgetaboutit! I have seen heated stones with great transparency, what in the old days was called "fine water" and turbid looking naturals. In my last post I suggested taking a look at www.secretsofthegemtrade.com where you can see photos of, among others, The Rockefeller Sapphire, the most expensive sapphire ever sold at auction. You can also read about the quality perameters of sapphire, good luck!

 

[Jude]

Josh,

Thanks for the reply. I planned on getting an appraisal and also purchasing a gem that is certified. What do you think of a jewelery mart that offers an appraisal on their gems, however they are not certified?

Thanks again, Jude

 

[Jude]

Hi Dick,

What a great wealth of information! I have been reading a lot on this subject and I will get that book as well. I asked in my previous post what would be your thoughts on a jewelery mart that offers an appraisal only. The gems at this mart are not certified, however they do offer appraisals? I have been to both the GIA and AGTA websites and I would think gems worthy of purchasing would be both certified and appraised? What happens if you purchase this certified gem and you get an independant appraisal and the appraisal does not meet your expectations?

Also, what does G.G. mean? Gemologist? Well, if so, I have spoken with one at a local family owned jewelery store who did state that 99% of gems out there are heat treated? But, that she would be able to get a gem that was not heat treated if I wanted one. What is your position on enhanced or non-enhanced? Do you think it is worth the cost or frustration

of purchasning a "non-enhanced" gem? My understanding is heat treated sapphires enhance the gem including the appearance by eliminating the inclusions and making it difficult to see them.

If I am going to spend a substantial amount of money on a gem, I expect that gem to worthy inside and out. It seems that the concensus is the appearance is first priority, however I need that gem to be quality as well.

Your thoughts are appreciated.
Jude

 

[elmo]

Sage, there is a new "heat" treatment for blue sapphires about which little is known that is as insidious as the beryllium treatment for pad lookalikes, described here: http://www.agta.org/consumer/news/20031112gemstoneupdate.htm

Jude, if your interest is primarily corundum, I would opt for Ruby & Sapphire over Secrets of the Gem Trade. Wise's book is a nice overview of most important gem materials, including sapphire. However, whereas Wise spends a few dozen pages on the topic, Hughes devotes hundreds. Both are good.

 

[Jude]

Thanks Elmo,

I just visited the site you and Dick recommended! It seems that non-heat treated sapphires are still the preference. Have a good day. Jude

 

[valeria101]

Yes, appearance is priority, what else would? Diamond grades are unique in distinguishing types of gems after differences not visible without magnification... Not that there are not grading 'grids' for sapphire, but the range of qualities with commercial value are wide enough to make such classification difficult. But this is another issue, and if you go through that reading, you will get the core of the argument.
However, the 'looks' are not all that matters: only and handful of natural gems will ever be as perfect as the dime-a-dozen artificial ones, and sapphires which would have no commercial value can borrow the killer looks through diffussion (and not just the orange, but also the blues). Traitional (low-temperature) heat treatment can only bring some moderate improvement compared to the above, so it is accepted.
If you want a worls-class gem for a couple of $K, than I would notrefuze diffussion. In any other case, I would on the grounds that it is not much better than buying overpriced artificial sapphire. How serious is the issue? Thailand has recently banned the export of low quality sapphire which could only become marketable through these new invasive treatments, toprotect the reputation of the traditional (natural and heat treated only) goods.

 

[valeria101]

CTD...
You want an exceptional sapphire? Go for an untreated gem, but do not discount quality for the 'natural' status. Even if it may take a while to find what you are looking for, and you end up with a smaller stone. If color is outstanding, even smaller sizes are by no means common... Do you have a source in mind? I would skip the locals and go for an top-of-the-industry source. Pala International comes to mind first. So does Africagems...and others. There are meny more jewelry shops in the US than fine, untreated sapphires at any given time!

 

[Colored Gemstone Nut]

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On 11/17/2003 9:56:41 AM Jude wrote:











Josh,

Thanks for the reply. I planned on getting an appraisal and also purchasing a gem that is certified. What do you think of a jewelery mart that offers an appraisal on their gems, however they are not certified?

Thanks again, Jude

Hi Jude,

First I would consider an independent appraiser over an "in house" appraisal depending on the quality of gem you are seeking...

A company marketing a stone which has an accompanying document which in most cases is graded by an "in house" appraiser have much to gain in mis-representing the stone. I am not saying it is an intentional practice but sometimes I believe loose grading goes on in less reputable establishments because there is an empasis placed on moving merchandise and there is a definite vested interest in an improper evaluation.

Don't get me wrong there are some very sound places which sell colored gemstones which thrive on a healthy impeccable reputation, but if I were in your shoes I would get an independent appraisal and not rely on the in-house evaluation especially when dealing with a natural or a stone being marketed as a natural.

I think if your considering a high quality gem an independent appraisal is paramount in judging quality and a shade up or down or a miss-representation of a stone could cost you a fist full of cash. No big surprise I am a fan of independent appraisals because I think it offers a good "checks & balances" on those not so up front vendors.

If your in the market for a nice stone which has good color which appeals to your eye and you don't care about whether or not it is heated, I would not worry about an independent appraisal. There are some very "nice" quality commercially cut sapphires which might suit your fancy...

If you want to step it up to the top contendors which can range up to thousands of dollars per carat, I would definitely say an independent appraisal is a must...

Have fun shopping...

----------------

 

[zko]

I too am in the bay area looking for a colored sapphire for an e-ring... has anyone done business with walterarnstein or pala or africagems or has a recommendation?

 

[Sagebrush]

Jude,
Being from the stix (East Coast) I am not familar with "Jewelry Marts". Integrity is a personal thing. From your posts its a bit difficult to tell exactly what you want. However, if you are looking for peace of mind, an independent evaluation by a Graduate Gemologist (GG) or gem lab. certificate is your best bet. However, if you are buying a 1/2 carat sapphire that route is rather expensive (it may cost more than the gem).

Hughes' book is great, everything you ever wanted to know about sapphire except maybe a really good sense of how to evaluate quality. Wise covers all the important gems from a quality perspective only with caveats about treatments, etc. Either way you will need expert advise on your stone. I might suggest taking a look at www.rwwise.com Richard Wise's website. He specializes in blue sapphire, just got back from Asia and has quite a few (gem quality only) in stock. You will purchase a stone from a man with a great eye and his prices are fair.

 

[Jude]

Dick,

I am interested in am untreated blue sapphire (3ct. give or take cushion or oval cut). With that said, I have found four at this time that really are beautiful from Sri Lanka and Kashmir. All the important characteristics that have been listed from the GIA and AGTA seem to be apparent. HOWEVER, I am a novice and am going on my gut instinct. The place I found offers an appraisal (no certification) and when I asked if I took the gem to an outside appraisal and an independent evaluation by a gemologist and I was still not satisfied with the information I could return it within 30 days for a full refund.

My overall feeling is that certification is important, but not common with gems? And, the worth of the gem comes from the appraisal not only the certification. The certification explains the gem in full detail, but I have never seen a certification that states the worth of the gem? The different articles seem to debate the difference of opinion on what gems are worthy heat or untreated gems and how to purchase them. With diamonds there is a standarized process and certification is given on most occasions,not so much with gems. I guess what I am trying to say is at what level does one give in to purchasing a gem? Do you have any suggestions on selecting a graduate gemologist? And, do you know how long the process takes?

Thanks for your help.
Jude

 

[valeria101]

Sorry to interfere (the post is addressed...).. Of course you should get a certificate for a 3 ct unheated Kashmir! Would one do well to buy a D-VVS diamond uncertified?

I don't know how long it would take, but this only the lab you send the stone to can answer. Certs (reports actually) are not appraisals, so do not (and should not) include price estimates. However, appraisers usually (ok, I don't know any exceptions, but this does not mean much) do not have the hardware and perhaps expertise to certify origin (for which you are probably paying, so you should really know what a largely accepted, black on white opinion is). I like to see some quantification of color saturation & tone on the lab report... AGL comes to mind.

How common is certification for a 3ct unheated, best quality and most desired origin sapphire such as you are looking for

? It is mandatory!

 

[Sagebrush]

Jude,
"I can teach you to grade diamonds in an afternoon, learning to grade opal might take several years". This is a paraphrase of something Richard Liddecoat once said. Richard Wise took 86,000 words to explain the basics of evaluating gemstones. Connoisseurship ain't easy, if it was, everyone would be an expert.

You are correct about certificates, they never put a price on a gem, that is not their purpose. If you plan to purchase an unehanced Kashmir or Burma sapphire it should come with a certificate, period, no discussion, no excuses. I would ask for an AGL (American Gemological Lab.) full certificate which includes quality evaluation. You will pay a premium for gems from these two areas. The best of them are fabulous, however, just being from Burma or Kashmir does not guarantee the stone is of high quality. Quite the opposite. Country of origin is a very expensive if convienient crutch. You are buying gems not geography. A fine Ceylon or Madagascar stone will often blow the doors off a Kashmir at one quarter the price.

Best of luck,

 

[Jude]

Thanks Dick for all your help!

Also, thanks to all who replied to my posting. I have learned a lot of information on sapphires and have enjoyed doing so. I will definitely be contacting an independent gemologist to certify my sapphire as well an appraisal. Cheers! Jude

 

[elmo]

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On 11/19/2003 6:47:25 AM Sagebrush wrote:

I would ask for an AGL (American Gemological Lab.) full certificate which includes quality evaluation. ----------------

Can you recommend brokers who provide AGL reports up-front like this? Certainly none of my local jewelers do this. Robert Genis has a few nice stones up on his site, but selection is very limited. Same for the kashmirblue site.

If there was a group of gem sellers who did as nice a job and sold at similarly reasonable markups as the top diamond sellers here, I would purchase more colored stones

. Hint, hint

.

 

[Sagebrush]

Can you recommend brokers who provide AGL reports up-front like this? Certainly none of my local jewelers do this. Robert Genis has a few nice stones up on his site, but selection is very limited. Same for the kashmirblue site.

If there was a group of gem sellers who did as nice a job and sold at similarly reasonable markups as the top diamond sellers here, I would purchase more colored stones

. Hint, hint

.----------------[/quote]


Elmo,
Few sell w/full AGL workups because they are very expensive and really not justified except for larger more exceptional stones. Did you say "reasonable markups" including that certificate would increase the markup significantly.

Also, lets remember that a fine,natural even a heated blue sapphire of exceptional quality is rare. Diamonds, colorless diamonds, are not rare. They are, in fact, a commodity. If you are a dealer in fine color, when you see something truly rare, you buy it simply because you are not likely to see it again! You may hold on to it for several years before selling. You want a diamond? Name your quality, a couple of phone calls and voila I'm glad to turn it over for a few percent markup.

A Kashmir or fine Burma blue priced for quick turnover? Forgetaboutit! If you can find it and buy it at a reasonable price, do it and consider yourself lucky.

 

[elmo]

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On 11/26/2003 1:29:35 PM Sagebrush wrote:


Few sell w/full AGL workups because they are very expensive and really not justified except for larger more exceptional stones. Did you say 'reasonable markups' including that certificate would increase the markup significantly.
----------------

I agree with what you say about how the very rarest gems such as Kashmir sapphire and unheated Mogok ruby are priced, but not at all about report cost. A full AGL report for a sapphire 3-4.x carats runs about $450. That's in the ballpark of what a GIA report costs for a diamond of that size. Now consider what a reasonably nice unheated 4.x carat sapphire might run, any origin...maybe $2.5-3.5k/carat? That puts the cost of the stone at $10k-$15k. Add the report, and you only add 3-5% to the cost, significantly less even than margin on a typical internet diamond sale. I think it is a very reasonable thing to expect, even for stones that are very good but less than extra fine.