''U'' cut, ''V'' cut, ''Fishtail'' or ''Scoop'' setting melee-ERD

[Lola0918]

Hi all. I am having the guys at ERD set my cushion in the HW halo design. I spoke with Mark and told him "I want the ''V'' cut look for the melee to have the least amount of metal look possible''. I showed him pics of cushiondivine''s setting and said ''DO THAT!''. He mentioned a ''scoop''? Can anyone help me with verbiage? I understand that it has to be structurally sound but I really want the halo, shank, struts as delicate as possible. Here is a pic of cushiondivine''s ring for reference...

 

[Lola0918]

Here is the HW that was in Martha Stewart mag. Notice the difference in the cut of the melee. I know my PP said I want what cushiondivine''s looks like but this is what I really want...how do I explain this...

 

[CharmyPoo]

To be blunt, you won't be able to replicate that little metal showing through cad and cast (my definition of little metal showing as per the original Harry Winston). Of the vendors recommended here frequently, I only think Leon and 23rd Street Jewelers can do this. Maybe Ocean and M2C but I have never seen their work in person. However, with that said, I am certain that they can do what they did for Cushiondivine's setting - afterall, ERD made that one too.

The Harry Winston is a deep V-cut.

 

[Lola0918]

Thanks Charmy. I just emailed them pics of both and asked whats the closest they can get to the HW look. I recall that ERD made cushiondivine''s which is why I used hers as an example, also her''s is pretty darn stunning.

Thanks for your reply

 

[CharmyPoo]

In addition to my Leon project, I am working with another jeweler to reset my 8 main modern cushion. It will be set in a Harry Winston / Leon inspired setting. I am not sure if this is helpful but this is the "spec" document I sent her.

 

[ChunkyCushionLover]

Date: 4/21/2010 10:35:14 AM
Author:Lola0918
Hi all. I am having the guys at ERD set my cushion in the HW halo design. I spoke with Mark and told him ''I want the ''V'' cut look for the melee to have the least amount of metal look possible''. I showed him pics of cushiondivine''s setting and said ''DO THAT!''. He mentioned a ''scoop''? Can anyone help me with verbiage? I understand that it has to be structurally sound but I really want the halo, shank, struts as delicate as possible. Here is a pic of cushiondivine''s ring for reference...

Cushiondivine''s setting is U shaped or mushroom pave and was ERD''s attempt at maximum cutdowns on the side to minnimize metal.
My wife''s ring(shown on the left below) is the same style but without those large cutdowns in between the pair of prongs. When Mark mentions the ''scoop'' it is safe to say you want the lowest scoop possible, lowest u shape, and a large cutdown between scoops, also the edge of the round diamond melee girdle should be right to the edge of the plate underneath, or ever so slightly over the edge.

When we got ours done I was a little disappointed, I sent ERD many pictures of the thin delicate curved prongs with no space in between and low scoop done by Leon Mege and he wasn''t able to reproduce this look, the halo does have a very slight edge of metal around the melee diamonds. This doesn''t bother my wife, she thinks I am way too picky, and the ring is constructed beautifully and she gets a ton of compliments on how delicate and refined it looks but I will always know that it isn''t quite as minimal in metal as Leon or Ocean can achieve (but that is why they are worth the much higher prices).

In high end designs of this ring (Leon Mege, Ocean Pearlman) or this pave style the outside edges can be defined by the melee diamonds not by the metal, and they place the prongs in between the diamond more on the side(see right side aqua earrings). Unfortunately I doubt Mark''s jeweler can duplicate such refined work but I''d love to see if he would try if asked. You have my permission to send him this attached photograph of both my wife''s pieces and see what he says.

The picture you posted from the ad from HW is called V Cut pave and if executed well will also really minnimize the view of metal on the side of the ring. I have not seen ERD use this pave style and I am not sure how adept his jeweler would be at it but it never hurts to ask. While the v-cut really minnimizes the amount of metal on the edge of the stone, the look of no metal comes from the smallest size in length and width of the prongs holding the melee stones in place, either U or V style can have the look of minimal metal if executed well with really small and well placed prongs.

 

[Lola0918]

Charmy-your document is amazing. Did you construct that yourself? I love the curved profile of the halo as well as the halo at a 30degree angle. THat is not something that I thought about before. Just goes to show the amount of info that I never would have gotten prior to PS!

CCL-Thank you for your permission to use those photos. I will definitely show them to ERD and see what they say. I will let you know. Yes, I am extremely picky as well and would nit pick everything. SO glad to hear your wife is happy with her design.

 

[ChunkyCushionLover]

Date: 4/21/2010 1:34:27 PM
Author: Lola0918
Charmy-your document is amazing. Did you construct that yourself? I love the curved profile of the halo as well as the halo at a 30degree angle. THat is not something that I thought about before. Just goes to show the amount of info that I never would have gotten prior to PS!

CCL-Thank you for your permission to use those photos. I will definitely show them to ERD and see what they say. I will let you know. Yes, I am extremely picky as well and would nit pick everything. SO glad to hear your wife is happy with her design.

Here are some closeups of LM Mushroom versus HW (V Cut) pave styles.

 

[SmallSparkle]

Hi Lola,

What a coincidence, i just had a ring made by ERD and used that exact same photo as a reference for what i wanted the pave to look like. Mark did refer to this as ''scoop'' in his response to me. Although i have not seen the ring in person yet, i am VERY happy with the photo''s and how close together ERD managed to set the stones in the halo


photo''s of my ring are Here

for reference i have 1.7mm (~2point) melee stones and a 1ct centre

 

[CharmyPoo]

Date: 4/21/2010 1:34:27 PM
Author: Lola0918
Charmy-your document is amazing. Did you construct that yourself? I love the curved profile of the halo as well as the halo at a 30degree angle. THat is not something that I thought about before. Just goes to show the amount of info that I never would have gotten prior to PS!

Yes - I make a document like that for all pricer jewelry projects. However, the net result doesn''t always turn out that way

 

[Lola0918]

Smallsparkle,

COINCIDENCE!! I was just looking at your photos earlier today and thought that I can''t wait to see it on your FF''s finger. That is too funny! The ring looks beautiful. Keep me posted!

 

[red9]

First, Lola0918 - good luck with your ring design. It sounds like you are asking the right questions to get ring that you want! I had a similar ring made recently and wish I had found this forum and done my research first!

I actually have a question for CharmyPoo and ChunkyCushionLover, since you both seem to have a lot of experience with HW inspired ring designs. When I worked with a jeweler to design my HW inspired ring, I was basing it off of a setting that they already had in the store. I knew that I wanted an extremely delicate setting, with a very thin halo and shank. The ring that was in the store had a 1.2mm shank and a very thin halo - so I think that makes the diamonds under 1 point (?). The total carat weight of the melee was supposed to be around .41 carats (center stone around 1.6). When I received my ring several months later, I felt like it was bulkier (more metal) and it was noticeable that the halo wasn''t as delicate. However, I didn''t do anything about it, because for the most part I loved the ring and was excited to have it. I was recently helping a friend find a ring and found out that my ring has a 1.4mm shank and halo. As a detail oriented person like yourselves, I know that it''s going to continue to bother me. In your opinions, do I have any grounds to go back to the jeweler and have it remade? Or do I just have to be okay with the fact that custom rings are never exact? And should I just try to focus on the fact that a thicker shank will probably be more durable in the long run? What would you do in my position?

 

[CharmyPoo]

Date: 4/21/2010 10:52:04 PM
Author: red9
In your opinions, do I have any grounds to go back to the jeweler and have it remade? Or do I just have to be okay with the fact that custom rings are never exact? And should I just try to focus on the fact that a thicker shank will probably be more durable in the long run? What would you do in my position?

I am not an expert in HW inspired designs - in fact, CCL really helped me fine tune what to ask for. All I knew was that I wanted delicate and no metal showing and sharp double claw prongs. On to your topic, how long have you had the ring for and have you been wearing it? I think it''s ok if you voiced your concerns to the jeweler right away or within a day or so. If it has been months, it could be tougher.

Custom rings will never be exact. I was disappointed with a job but I voiced my concerns right away and worked with the jeweler.

The truth is .. at 1.4 mm - your ring still sounds very delicate and not bulky. Can you start a new thread (so we don''t thread jack) and add some photos? We can make a call then.