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Trying to replicate a setting design and need advice

R

rkfmpls

Rough_Rock
Joined
Oct 5, 2012
Messages
7
Hello PS, this is my first post so please go easy on me....I am currently in the process of working with a jeweler to recreate a similiar design to another ring. The inspiration ring is one some of you might have seen before asI see its been mentioned on PS before. It is Nicole Richie's 4 ct round engagement ring, that is set in a bezel setting floating in an octagon halo from Neil Lane. I'd like to recreate a similiar design on a much smaller scale (as this version with a 4 ct is out of my price range) but am having trouble with the gallery and shoulders of the ring. Looking at pictures of her ring It appears to be pretty low profile and the halo looks to sit exactly on her finger. Any ideas from the PS community as to how this achieved? I'm hoping to replicate this style with a 1 ct excellent cut RB J VS2 with pave side stones but am hitting a brick wall with the design to keep it low profile like it appears in the pictures. Any ideas are much appreciated!!! Thank you!

_1179.jpg

0219-nicole-ring_we.jpg
 
It's a deco looking piece that is similar to my Beverley K but with different shoulders.

This is the version of mine with a round brilliant:
http://www.beverleyk.com/semi-mounts/8wr397-a-d-d-m.html

Bev K probably has a version of this with the same shoulders are the Nicole R one, but their website is terrible. Talk to someone who sells it, like Good Old Gold or ID jewelry.
 
Thank you for the reply, that helps me out a lot!! I really like the Beverley K settings. Wishing I had known about them before going the custom route with my current jeweler, hopefully they can work towards including some of that in the current design! Thanks again for your help!
 
rkfmpls|1349463693|3280010 said:
Thank you for the reply, that helps me out a lot!! I really like the Beverley K settings. Wishing I had known about them before going the custom route with my current jeweler, hopefully they can work towards including some of that in the current design! Thanks again for your help!
Click to expand...

Can I ask, how "far in" are you with your current jeweler? How much money? Are you locked in? I'm not saying that the current jeweler isn't going to do a good job, but I've been on this forum for a few years now and I have read quite a few posts from people that were disappointed with their final product, but felt "trapped" with their jeweler. If you're happy with your work with them so far, that's great! If not and you think Beverly K (or someone else) would do a better job, then the earlier you break from the current project, the better. When going custom, it's best to go to someone that is already experienced in making settings in that particular style.
 
rkfmpls|1349463693|3280010 said:
Thank you for the reply, that helps me out a lot!! I really like the Beverley K settings. Wishing I had known about them before going the custom route with my current jeweler, hopefully they can work towards including some of that in the current design! Thanks again for your help!
Click to expand...

You're welcome! It's a gorgeous ring and I didn't realize Nicole's was octagonal until I started doing searches after mine was ordered! hehe It's a common Art Deco shape.

We'd love to see your ring when it's done, I'm sure it'll be gorgeous! Is your jeweler doing a CAD or drawing first so you can approve it? You'll want a super thin milgrained bezel to make it match closely, so look at his/her bezel work to see if they can do it. Not everyone can set bezels well.

In order to get the ring as low set as possible while being able to wear a ring relatively close, you can make the gallery "lean in" instead of being straight up and down:

ring_67.jpg
photo_6_0.jpg

They could have even made it go in a bit more, but I'm fine with it since I don't mind the gap.

ring6_5.jpg
More undergallery

photo-2(1).jpg
ring-side_0.jpg
In this last one, you can see how the shoulders are attached to the band portion. (Picture credit : GOG).

This picture shows the ring in a bit more detail from Neil Lane - looks like only the bezel is milgrained (pic from http://thats-all-folks.com/celebrity-inspired-engagement-rings-by-neil-lane/):
nicole-richie.jpg

Other more experienced PSers can weigh in on what size melee that is! :)
 
sonnyjane|1349464697|3280016 said:
rkfmpls|1349463693|3280010 said:
Thank you for the reply, that helps me out a lot!! I really like the Beverley K settings. Wishing I had known about them before going the custom route with my current jeweler, hopefully they can work towards including some of that in the current design! Thanks again for your help!
Click to expand...

Can I ask, how "far in" are you with your current jeweler? How much money? Are you locked in? I'm not saying that the current jeweler isn't going to do a good job, but I've been on this forum for a few years now and I have read quite a few posts from people that were disappointed with their final product, but felt "trapped" with their jeweler. If you're happy with your work with them so far, that's great! If not and you think Beverly K (or someone else) would do a better job, then the earlier you break from the current project, the better. When going custom, it's best to go to someone that is already experienced in making settings in that particular style.
Click to expand...

I was about to say the same thing but couldn't figure out a tactful way to say it. Thanks Sonnyjane! ;)
 
Sonnyjane, Thank you for the information and concern, I'm not ashamed thought to say that I'm pretty committed as I have already purchased the center stone and provided 50% up front after we agreed on a price. I hadn't considered the possibility of backing out to go with another jeweler as they have been really good and I am pretty confident looking at their other custom work. As far as how far along in the process I am-- I've had a lot of phone calls and sent them images and drawings of what I was thinking.They just sent me the first round of CAD images and that is where I am unsure how to proceed as the gallery and shoulders of the ring Nicole R has look different than the CAD. Not sure if that is just because its a CAD image or not. Her's doesn't appear to have much of a gallery and I'm trying to figure out how to have them change it to be more like that...
 
If you can post the CAD's, the folks here can help you with what to tell the jeweler!
 
sonnyjane|1349468151|3280055 said:
If you can post the CAD's, the folks here can help you with what to tell the jeweler!
Click to expand...

Yup! There's a lot of PSers who have done custom work with CADs and can advise you! Post up! :)
 
Sorry I probably should have posted the CAD image in the original posting! So here it is. This is the first one they sent and I dont neccessarily know how a CAD image translates to an actual ring (I've heard it can look bulkier in the CAD). My first reaction was that I didn't like the space between the shoulders and the top ark of the ring (forgive me if I'm not using the right terms). Any insights on how to improve this design to get it more in line with the images above of the ring Nicole R has? To me with the euro shank and the sharp edges it looks bulkier than waht I had imagined...Please dont be shy you wont hurt my feelings, I love constructive criticism! Thank you

cad_render.jpg
 
Thank you for the insight on the super thin milgrained bezel and about how you can make the gallery lean in. I will make sure to mention this when I send them my proposed revisions.
 
I think the entire shank is designed wrong. Let me see if I can find images.
 
rkfmpls|1349468733|3280067 said:
Sorry I probably should have posted the CAD image in the original posting! So here it is. This is the first one they sent and I dont neccessarily know how a CAD image translates to an actual ring (I've heard it can look bulkier in the CAD). My first reaction was that I didn't like the space between the shoulders and the top ark of the ring (forgive me if I'm not using the right terms). Any insights on how to improve this design to get it more in line with the images above of the ring Nicole R has? To me with the euro shank and the sharp edges it looks bulkier than waht I had imagined...Please dont be shy you wont hurt my feelings, I love constructive criticism! Thank you
Click to expand...

Hmm, it looks like they've just done a bezel, like this: http://www.briangavindiamonds.com/engagement-rings/solitaire/full-bezel-euro-platinum-5716p I don't really like how they've made the top part 'euro-shankish' to match the bottom. The top should be more rounded regardless of the bottom of the shank. Did you want a Euro shank?

I think you just need to show them photos of what you want, that will communicate better than words what it should look like.
 
Well, the profile should look a LOT more like this.

And that airline around the bezel I think needs to be more pronounced.

_1186.jpg
 
I did initially tell them I wanted a euro shank but after seeing the CAD I am pretty sure I am ready to scrap that idea. I also agree about the top arms and how they have sort of a euro shank style to them (which I dont like). Thank you for the side shots of the rings to take back to them!
 
Also, the CAD is showing milgrain. There are two ways of doing milgrain -- including it in the casting, or apply after as a finish detail. The second is the correct way to do it.

If they are just putting the milgrain in the CAD so you can see what it looks like, that's fine. But if they are planning on casting that detail, that's not fine.
 
That is good to know!! I'm going to follow up with them about the milgrain as to whether it is pre or post cast and how thin it can be in the final product (looks rather large in the CAD) Also going to have them render a new CAD image with a newly shaped shank that is less bulky and no longer euro. I'll post the next round of CAD images they send back. If anyone else see's anything else I should call out that can get me closer to the original picture please let me know and thanks again to everyone who has commented! I really appreciate your help!
 
Gypsy has pointed out a lot of the issues with the design already - definitely more airline!

I can't figure out how it sits so low, though - unless she's got a super shallow stone? ;) I think it's somewhat an optical illusion - the ring has some bulk around the gallery

I don't see much/any filigree on the side of the shoulders, but the pictures are also not that great.
Perhaps something like this? http://www.faycullen.com/Art-Deco-Engagement-Rings/10132/
with a little of these shoulders thrown in? https://www.artdecodiamonds.com/products.php?id=579&l=0&u=2147483647&sortway=asc

I much prefer something like this, though : http://www.faycullen.com/Art-Deco-Engagement-Rings/9186/ combined with that last one.

Plus - drool : http://www.engagementringsdirect.com/art-deco-platinum-engagement-ring-pid-1056-44.html
 
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