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Tilt window in trapezoids :(

Ionysis

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Oct 1, 2015
Messages
1,976
Hello all, I need some advice.

I just got one of my diamonds reset with traps instead of pears. I love the setting height, angles, prongs and finishing, which is exactly what I wanted. BUT the traps have tilt windows set at this angle which is driving me nuts.

I’m torn on the best solution. Do I buy different / better cut traps or do I change the setting angle? I’d hate to spend a couple of thousand dollars on replacement traps and find I’m getting the same issues. Is this a common problem with brilliant cut traps? Or have I just been super unlucky with my combination of setting angle and side stones?

I love the ring from the side but the top down view isn’t something I can live with. Pics below.

Any advice gladly received.

A08B2549-32A0-45D9-9C85-EA2A9C63050F.jpegCC46F35F-7002-4754-BC75-22AE50F4353C.jpegC31EBA6D-0380-4A0E-88AB-9CAB79D80B5C.jpeg339E101C-A862-4B9C-8AE2-1F9D04B3975D.jpeg
 
I have said this before. 3 stone settings IMO always appear to have different colored sidestones. Even round ones. But I maybe delusional bc no one seems to be bothered by this color difference—even here in the land of PS—in which every detail is scrutinized. I think it is bc the center stone rises above and projects or casts a shadow on the sides. I lack the knowledge to describe but I have yet to see a 3 stone that does not exhibit this color difference.
I realize you are asking about windows—but all this to say—that to me—a 3 stone always involves a compromise.
 
I actually deliberately chose side stones which were a colour grade above the centre stone because they would look yellower placed at an angle. That part worked fine - they match great. Shame about the bloody cut of them!
 
So I’ve decided to buy new side stones and take it from there.
 
I am an idiot.

Only AFTER ordering new side stones did I think to try the old foil under the ring trick. As soon as I did that I saw that the tilt window in the traps was reflecting the open bottom of the setting. Once that was closed the improvement was huge.

So I will have a polished plate added to the bottom of the ring and see what effect that has in managing the problem.

If it’s still not visually acceptable I can have the new side stones swapped in.

The benefit of the closed bottom setting is is makes the k colour centre stone appear whiter. I can still easily clean from the side.

This may have been a very expensive oversight…. What am I going to do with another pair of traps?!
 
What’s the look of the traps you bought that won’t have the same tilt window?
Picture if you will share?
 
They are deeper.

The ones I have now are 5.7mm by 4mm and 0.67 tcw. The new ones are 5.7 by 3.5 and are 0.96 tcw. I’m hoping that will make a material difference.
 
That is a big difference. The new traps look great on the ring.
 
That does make a big difference!
 
I definitely think it looks much better.

I tried it by just switching out the stones but still wasn’t happy so I had the bench remake the ring to slightly different specs.

I had the centre stone raised by 0.5mm and the side stones slightly less angled. I also had a rhodium polished plate added under the stones to maximise the sparkle and whiteness as they are J/K colour. I really do think it makes a difference.

Good job my jeweller is so patient and knows what I’m like!
 
I definitely think it looks much better.

I tried it by just switching out the stones but still wasn’t happy so I had the bench remake the ring to slightly different specs.

I had the centre stone raised by 0.5mm and the side stones slightly less angled. I also had a rhodium polished plate added under the stones to maximise the sparkle and whiteness as they are J/K colour. I really do think it makes a difference.

Good job my jeweller is so patient and knows what I’m like!

Seriously, a great example of small details that make a big difference. I’m so glad you knew what to do and got what you wanted instead of being disappointed every time you looked at that gorgeous middle stone. It’s perfect now!
 
The second pair was the charm! Kudos to you for figuring it all out. The ring looks beautiful!
 
I definitely think it looks much better.

I tried it by just switching out the stones but still wasn’t happy so I had the bench remake the ring to slightly different specs.

I had the centre stone raised by 0.5mm and the side stones slightly less angled. I also had a rhodium polished plate added under the stones to maximise the sparkle and whiteness as they are J/K colour. I really do think it makes a difference.

Good job my jeweller is so patient and knows what I’m like!

It looks lovely!

Do you mean a plate like to close the window or meaning the plating?
 
It looks lovely!

Do you mean a plate like to close the window or meaning the plating?

I asked them to fill in the open space under the basket with a plate. So the rhodium shines up under the diamond. A bit like a yellow gold cup under a yellow diamond but with space enough the clean. The diamond centre itself is very well cut but I still think the closed back makes it seem whiter.

669ECC4E-156B-462E-8701-8EA79B27570D.jpegB75049DB-BE26-4D5E-8221-50B3639D9ADF.jpeg
 
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