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Tiffany Harmony David Klass CAD Feedback

daviddaviddavid

Rough_Rock
Joined
Aug 1, 2022
Messages
16
Hi friends!

After lots of forum reading, I decided to request a Tiffany Harmony replica from David Klass, who has glowing reviews according to you seasoned lads. I just got back the first CAD from him and wanted to ask if any keen eyes can take a look to see if there are any tweaks/edits that you see to get it as close as possible. Also just any suggestions or comments would be welcome! I've attached some pictures for reference. Thank you so much, really appreciate everyone's time and expertise :)

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I feel the first question I have is did you want 4 prongs like the original or request to change it to 6 prongs?
 
I feel the first question I have is did you want 4 prongs like the original or request to change it to 6 prongs?

Sorry I didn’t specify! Girlfriend said she liked 6 prongs so I requested it instead of the original 4 prong design.
 
Sorry I didn’t specify! Girlfriend said she liked 6 prongs so I requested it instead of the original 4 prong design.

Lovely! In that case, I personally don't see any changes I'd request, the stone is set just as low, the shoulder taper is done well, and everything looks proportionate given the ring and center stone size. =)

The 6 prong also helps keep a more rounded appearance for the diamond, which is also a preference of mine.
 
Thank you so much for your time, I appreciate another eye looking it through. I'll post the end results when it's finished :)

bump in case anyone else is willing to take a glance at the CAD :))
 
The pave (small diamonds) go further down the shank than the Tiffany...I'm assuming you asked for this (and I prefer it).
I would make sure that the pave is going to be bead set (or is it Bright cut) and there will be "rails" alongside the pave. Looks
like the Harmony uses 2 shared beads to hold the pave in. Might want to ask so you're both on the same page. It Doesnt really
show up in the CADs but I'm pretty sure DK knows what he's doing. (I've used him myself).

I dont see anything I'd change...maybe just some clarifications.
 
The pave (small diamonds) go further down the shank than the Tiffany...I'm assuming you asked for this (and I prefer it).
I would make sure that the pave is going to be bead set (or is it Bright cut) and there will be "rails" alongside the pave. Looks
like the Harmony uses 2 shared beads to hold the pave in. Might want to ask so you're both on the same page. It Doesnt really
show up in the CADs but I'm pretty sure DK knows what he's doing. (I've used him myself).

I dont see anything I'd change...maybe just some clarifications.
Thanks so much for your input! Can I ask what you mean by “rails” along the pave?
 
Pave-Setting-Types-1.jpgBright cut pave (also called bead and bright) has a border of metal around the edge of the pave, and then there are little "beads" of metal that hold the tiny diamonds (aka melee) in place. The other styles of pave (french, fishtail, u-cut, etc) do not have border of metal.

Leon Mege has a good video showing the different types of pave. He calls the bright cut pave "classic"-->
 
Pave-Setting-Types-1.jpgBright cut pave (also called bead and bright) has a border of metal around the edge of the pave, and then there are little "beads" of metal that hold the tiny diamonds (aka melee) in place. The other styles of pave (french, fishtail, u-cut, etc) do not have border of metal.

Leon Mege has a good video showing the different types of pave. He calls the bright cut pave "classic"-->

wow!! that is so helpful seeing the different styles - I feel like the original harmony ring doesn't have as clearly defined "rail" as the bright cut pave example in the video and in the picture you provided. The sides of the pave looks more flush against the diamonds in the tiffany harmony in my opinion, but I'm guessing it would still be considered bright cut pave style? As in the rails against the side diamonds can be as tall as you'd like (sit flush against or be a bit raised) and still be bright cut pave.

Appreciate your expertise and hope my questions aren't overly neophyte xD
 
As in the rails against the side diamonds can be as tall as you'd like (sit flush against or be a bit raised) and still be bright cut pave.
You're correct that the stones in the video look like they're set deeper into the band compared to the Harmony.
The key feature of the bright cut pave is that it still has the rails of metal preserved around the edge of the stones, not how deeply the stones are set into the band. You have good eyes!

Asking questions shows you care and are committed to the process. Everyone starts somewhere, which is why PS is such a great community. Your future fiancé will be so impressed when you are able to point out all of these details and features that you made sure were included just for her. :)
 
Hi friends, David Klass provided an updated CAD based on the suggestions y'all graciously made - can you please help take another look to see if everything checks out alright?

  • After I commented that the "the prongs look a bit curved in the perspective (upper right) image", he made the prongs more straight but I was unsure of how this affects the look of the ring vs the original design?
  • The paved tiffany harmony ring is actually thinner than the non-paved so that's why the dimensions are different. I think the CAD is pretty close to the paved Tiffany dimensions, but does anyone think the band might seem thin with the size of the center stone? I've attached a picture of my gf wearing an actual Harmony ring for reference (I think the stone in the picture is ~1.7 carats, her ring size is 3 but the example ring is large on her)

Quick note: David accidently shortened the pave but the actual ring will be 3/4th like the original CAD.

Thanks so much everyone :)

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