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Tiffany’s Victoria design

mcmc

Rough_Rock
Joined
Apr 25, 2022
Messages
6
Hi, I’m curious to know if anyone has insights on whether Tiffany’s Victoria design (4 marquise floral style) existed before Tiffany registered it in 1998?

I’m one of those who believe artistic creation should be respected. Some may argue that big brands charge premium because of their brand name and marketing cost, and it’d be a lot more cost effective to have the same design custom-made by jewelers, with the same material. In my view, the premium also includes royalty fee to the original design, which belonged to the brand; getting it custom-made, even without a brand’s logo, would be like getting a piece of fake item.

I’ve recently bought a Victoria necklace from Tiffany. Have saved up a while for it, as I think the design is Tiffany-unique, and so prefer to get it from the brand.

My friend, who’s a jewellery designer, says he’s appreciative that I pay respect to artistic creations. However, he commented that different brands actually copy from each other, and there’s no way to know if Tiffany actually came up with this simple design, or if it popularized it after the design registration.

From where I am located, a lot of local jewelers have this design for sale. I also see Sotheby selling a pair of earrings very similar to Tiffany’s (the proportion of Sotheby’s marquise diamonds is different from Tiffany’s).

https://www.sothebys.com/en/buy/_pa...OjkZ3ElXN70hmqzxCyssZNXVvfoFTeBoaAiWEEALw_wcB

So, out of curiosity, I’d like to know if anyone has insights on this? Thank you.

CF5E223B-CB87-4569-A5B2-DABCFE6998BE.jpeg
 

StarshineSweet

Rough_Rock
Trade
Joined
Sep 17, 2021
Messages
72

mcmc

Rough_Rock
Joined
Apr 25, 2022
Messages
6
Your friend is correct. This is a non-T&Co, from the 1980's:

The designs get recycled over many decades, and even centuries in some instances.

StarshineSweet, thank you for your valuable insight. You have solved my mystery. ;)2
 
Joined
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Messages
2,998
I don’t have any way to prove it, exactly, but my granddad had a pair of cufflinks that looked like the Victoria studs from way back in the 70s or 80s. So they definitely existed before Tiffany made them popular.
 

mcmc

Rough_Rock
Joined
Apr 25, 2022
Messages
6
Your friend is correct. This is a non-T&Co, from the 1980's:

The designs get recycled over many decades, and even centuries in some instances.

StarshineSweet, after reading your reply, I came across this vintage Tiffany ring on ebay. The design is very similar to the vintage non-T ring you shared. Can’t believe big brands are copying other designers and registering it as their own. :confused2:

 

mcmc

Rough_Rock
Joined
Apr 25, 2022
Messages
6
I don’t have any way to prove it, exactly, but my granddad had a pair of cufflinks that looked like the Victoria studs from way back in the 70s or 80s. So they definitely existed before Tiffany made them popular.

thank you, AllAboardTheBlingTrain, for your reply and valuable insight shared on this forum. :kiss2:

After I created this thread, I found that this topic had been discussed and you and other members have shared so much info on it.

I’m a bit dissappointed that a brand I like and respect is taking other’s design as their own. Now I feel like my Tiffany pendant is a knockoff.
 
Joined
Apr 22, 2020
Messages
2,998
thank you, AllAboardTheBlingTrain, for your reply and valuable insight shared on this forum. :kiss2:

After I created this thread, I found that this topic had been discussed and you and other members have shared so much info on it.

I’m a bit dissappointed that a brand I like and respect is taking other’s design as their own. Now I feel like my Tiffany pendant is a knockoff.

I wouldn’t think of your Tiffany as a knock-off. There are small differences in design between any two makers of a design like this (eg angle of the stones, size and proportions etc). I do think it’s funny that Tiffany was granted a patent on a design that predates them, but that doesn’t make it a knock-off, don’t worry. They have their own standard specs and proportions for this design. Certain styles for all popular makers are rather iconic (like the Return to Tiffany, or Atlas). Certain styles have been done by others (like DBTY). As long as you love your pendant, enjoy it and be happy. If all you want is the four Marquis in a flower shape, get a different jeweler to make you other pieces.
 

caolsen

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Feb 21, 2010
Messages
1,488
Just spend aypny time on the royal jewelry forums and you’ll see so many designs and settings in historical pieces that it’s pretty obvious that there isn’t a whole lot of new under the sun when it comes to setting stones.

Now, pieces like the G. Jensen or Paloma Tiffany lines in solid metal are more sculptures than jewelry - those are often obviously unique.

But a floral or garland style setting for cut stones …someone was setting those in India, Europe or Persia long before Louis Tiffany started his lamp shade business.
 

mcmc

Rough_Rock
Joined
Apr 25, 2022
Messages
6
I wouldn’t think of your Tiffany as a knock-off. There are small differences in design between any two makers of a design like this (eg angle of the stones, size and proportions etc). I do think it’s funny that Tiffany was granted a patent on a design that predates them, but that doesn’t make it a knock-off, don’t worry. They have their own standard specs and proportions for this design. Certain styles for all popular makers are rather iconic (like the Return to Tiffany, or Atlas). Certain styles have been done by others (like DBTY). As long as you love your pendant, enjoy it and be happy. If all you want is the four Marquis in a flower shape, get a different jeweler to make you other pieces.

yea, you’re right. i do like my pendant, you made me now feel better wearing it :wavey:
 

mcmc

Rough_Rock
Joined
Apr 25, 2022
Messages
6
Just spend aypny time on the royal jewelry forums and you’ll see so many designs and settings in historical pieces that it’s pretty obvious that there isn’t a whole lot of new under the sun when it comes to setting stones.

Now, pieces like the G. Jensen or Paloma Tiffany lines in solid metal are more sculptures than jewelry - those are often obviously unique.

But a floral or garland style setting for cut stones …someone was setting those in India, Europe or Persia long before Louis Tiffany started his lamp shade business.

Thank you, caolsen. I’m new to the jewellery business and there’s so much to learn from this forum. Thanks for your sharing. :kiss2:
 
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