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Three ring designs for emerald cut - which should I choose?

Molly1975

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jun 25, 2023
Messages
13
IMG_8326.jpeg
Hi all,

I appreciate all of your advice and help! I’m so stuck on which of the above to choose, what do you think? I have decided on an east west setting. The stone is 3.2 carats so I am conscious of having it as low set as possible. I will copy and paste email from jeweller below so that the drawings make sense. With option C, I do have the choice to leave the cut out and just accept that the wedding band won’t sit flush.

Design A:
A minimal take on a bezel edged ring. From above the diamond is surrounded by metal but from the side you can see straight through the ring and around the sides of the stone. This is visually lightweight but might not feel quite secure enough if you were going to wear the ring daily.
The stone sits high enough for a straight wedding ring to slide underneath it.

Design B:
A more solid variation of design A. Instead of a solid wall around the stone a decorative side panel curves up and around it (I've drawn them like petals but they could vary ...). This gives more support to the stone while also keeping the weight of the overall ring down.
The stone sits high enough for a straight wedding ring to slide underneath it.

Design C:
I feel like this is the approach that you had in mind but sitting this kind of collet high up on a ring just looked messy when I drew it. So, I'm proposing something slightly odd: making a very classic looking ring but cutting away a section of one side of it. This will allow a straight wedding ring to slide underneath, into the gap. If you are thinking that you'll rarely wear the engagement ring alone then this could be a good approach. If, however, you think you might find yourself wearing just the engagement ring a lot then this could look a bit odd. It's all down to how you think you'll wear the set and whether having a gap in your engagement ring would bother you.

Many thanks!
 
Joined
Apr 22, 2020
Messages
2,945
Personally, I like the 'B' approach, but I think the petals look a bit funny; and a more geometric motif would be better. Could your jeweller propose some designs with a geometric motif, e.g. taking inspo from the art deco style?
 

Ionysis

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Oct 1, 2015
Messages
1,922
One or two. Def not three for my taste - looks rather clunky.
 

Garnetgirl

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Dec 7, 2014
Messages
2,168
B is my favourite. I also don’t mind A.
C. Blocks off the side view of the stone too much - you won’t see the gem in a profile view, when wearing the ring. The design looks a bit heavy or clunky. I wouldn’t choose it for that reason.
 

vintageinjune

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jan 4, 2012
Messages
1,089
B has my vote.
 

RMOO

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
May 12, 2020
Messages
1,148
B is my favorite as well, and second @AllAboardTheBlingTrain's suggestion for a more geometric or linear motif for the basket, to mirror the straight lines of the step cut.
 

Mooshi

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Feb 23, 2014
Messages
293
I like A
 

lulu_ma

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Sep 9, 2020
Messages
4,125
A or B
 

LilAlex

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Mar 3, 2018
Messages
3,655
I like A. In that design, is the culet resting against the band?

C looks like the mounting for an undersaturated or windowed colored stone.
 

JV36912

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Dec 26, 2017
Messages
703
A or B have my vote as well! Though the stone feels a bit more protected with B so If I was constantly wearing it with other bands I'd choose B
 

luckygreen317

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Sep 26, 2011
Messages
569
A -
Will the stone be protected enough in the gallery area so a band won’t rub up against it? If the shank widens up to where it attaches to the stone that will resolve it.
If you look at my avatar photo, it’s essentially your “A” setting. The shank breaks into 3 prongs to hold the bezel. It keeps bands from rubbing against the pavilion of the stone if/when they move around on my finger. I love this setting and was able to set my stone low with the culet resting on the structural band.

B -
Is very pretty and resolves the concerns I had in setting A.

C -
I love this setting as a “cup” alternative for colored diamonds to enhance their color.
 

Tonks

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Dec 27, 2017
Messages
1,504
B, but I would tweak the basket. Like someone said upthread, something more geometric would be gorgeous in the basket.
 
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