Tension Setting

[Kel G]

Hello,
I just purchansed a tesion set engagement ring about two weeks ago (april 2). Last night my fiance noticed that the diamond is loose. I looked at it and sure enough it is moving like a banschee. I called the jeweler who set the stone and he said to bring it in and that he would re set the diamond and also re-plate the ring. I just wanted to know if this is is a common accident, or is this going to be a problem that I am going to have to live with for the life of the ring. The diamond is a .30 carat and is in white gold setting.
Also I noticed that the setting is turning yello...I am aware that white gold tends to do this but I didn''t think it would happen so fast. I asked the jeweler once again and he said that his rhodium was contaminated and that is why it is not the quality it should be.
He is going to do all the work free of charge but I just don''t want to have to go through this every two weeks... is there something wrong with the ring or the jeweler, or is this just a accident that can be corrected and I should just trust him and go with the flow? Any help would be great! Thanks

Kel

 

[Adrienne]

Hey Kel G -

A tension setting should NOT get loose like that. Tension settings should be done by someone with a lot of experience in that area, if a jeweler/goldsmith does not know what they are doing then the diamond is more likely to come lose, and even fall out. Properly constructed tension set rings are designed so that there is structural integrity, and 60-90lbs of "tension" holding the diamond in. It's not like a prong setting, which can essentially be bent back into place, it's more in depth.

I am guessing your jeweler is inexperienced in the tension settings since you haven't owned it very long and the diamond is loose.

I would also be appalled at the fact that he admitted his rhodium is contaminated.

I would take this opportunity to ask for a refund. It sounds like he has poor workmanship, and I would personally be afraid to wear his tension setting.

 

[Hest88]

Oh, not good...

I don't know what to tell you, except that I wouldn't trust just anyone with a tension setting. Good luck; I hope your jeweler can fix this to your satisfaction.

 

[Kel G]

Okay now another question on rhodium plating. When jewlers order a setting in white gold do they have to plate the setting once it comes in, or should it already be plated?

I think I am going to have him see what he can do with the ring first and then if it happens again I am going to get a refund...I honestly think that two weeks is just too short f a time for an investment like that to fall apart. Please send more advice...I would like as many opinions on this as possible...I am an ignorant student who is in love and wats the best for his fiance.

Kel

 

[winyan]

aw, Kel, I'm really sorry to hear about your problems, but I have to agree with the other posters. I have a Galin and Abaci tension set ring. There is no way it is loose, and I wear it to my gym! It's possibly my safest mount, because none of the stone's edges are exposed. Mine is also white gold, and isn't turning the slightest bit yellow, though it's almost a year old.

Again, I'm sorry to hear of your troubles, but ... I'd try for the refund.

win

PS Congrats on your engagement, I hope you and fiancee have a beautful future together!

 

[Kel G]

Okay,
Now if I were to get a partial refund...I would like to keep the diamond. who does good tension settings with a good selection of settings? If you have websites that would be great. The setting is white gold with four side settings on each side.

Thanks

 

[pjblack]

I would call other companies that do tension settings...gelin and abaci, absolute titanium design etc... and ask them how they handle a stone that has come loose in one of thier settings. Is it a matter of resetting the stone or does the whole ring need to be rebuilt to fit the stone better?

I have a tension set diamond and it has never come loose. I can't see any way for it to come loose without the diamond actually chipping or breaking.

 

[Adrienne]

There are three companies that I know of that make high quality tension settings... Gelin-Abaci, Steven Kretchmer, and Neissing.

A good sight for looking at the Gelin-Abaci settings is www.mickeyroof.com - they have lots of pictures... and great customer service!

 

[DavidEmslie]

To do a tension setting right you must use the correct alloy for a tension setting, and one must work the metal in the correct ways, however, I have read articals that state they still have a 60% to %80 failure rate over all, including those done right and those not done right.

yes tension settings look cool, but unless its for an occasional light duty wear ring, I would advize not getting them.

the best way to have the look, is to have a thin section of metal, like a jump ring, under the stone connecting the two parts of the ring with the diamond hiding the fact, it will keep it from pulling apart, and the stone will stay steady, aslo, if the stone is set useing a method called "cast in place" the molten metal is cast around the stone, allowing for a very tight setting with no gaps or problems, however, this also requires special equipment and supplies.

For such a job that requires specialized skill and knolage, work with someone who has those skills. We are easy enough to find.


As for the rhodium. It goes bad easily, and can be touchy to work with, again, it is best to work with someone who really knows what they are doing to be safe.

 

[Kel G]

So is it a possibility that if a jewelers rhodium were to become contaminated in some way it would not attach to the ring very well?

 

[Kel G]

I also forgot...I am going to be getting some insurance for the ring and I was wondering what is the best way to go about it? I was directed to jewelers mutual. They quoted me at about $25.00 annually and that is for loss, theft and damage and even cover for mysterious disappearance. Now I am very new to all of this, but I feel that there is a catch somewhere...$25 to cover my ring which cost a lot more??? Maybe they are just going on the faith that nothing will happen to it. Any information on this subject will be most welcomed...
I was also advised to get a bonded diamond...from what I understand, a bonded diamond is pretty much an insurance policy, if anything were to happen to it, it would be replaced? My jeweler does not have bonded diamonds so that is why I did not get it...anyway Thank you all for the posts...they have been a great help. Oh, and the tension set ring that I bought does have the thin band of gold under the diamond holding the ring together. Is this still considered a tension setting?


I LOVE FINALS WEEK!!!!!

 

[sumi]

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On 4/13/2004 10:46:07 PM Adrienne wrote:

There are three companies that I know of that make high quality tension settings... Gelin-Abaci, Steven Kretchmer, and Neissing.

A good sight for looking at the Gelin-Abaci settings is www.mickeyroof.com - they have lots of pictures... and great customer service!----------------

If you are in Southern California, Niessing has a showroom in the Beverly Center. They have some amazing pieces.

 

[wallace]

Kel G - If it were me - I would return it and try to find either a traditional mounting or one of the recommended tension settings (Gelin & Abaci and Steven Kretchmer can be rather expensive but titanium is a good alternative). They have strong reputations for tension settings because, amongst other reasons, of the the amount of pressure they use to hold the stone in place. But, you'll have to talk to the pros the details! Look at their sites for info and run a web search for articles about tension set.s

You can find channel settings that look like tension settings.

Insurance - yes, get it insured asap - especially while it is in that setting! The annual price for insurance is generally determined as a percentage of the total purchase value/ apparaisal of the ring. This percentage varies between companies, policies, and states. For example, the average policy, lets' say, for a $2,500.00 ring at 1% would be a $25.00 annual premium. Think about what you pay for medical or life insurance compared to the amount you are covered for! Call a few places and get some quotes on the cost and the details of what you are covered for - get the most coverage you are willing to pay for!

Some companies may require that you have homeowner's or renters policy with them in order to get the ring insured. The value of the ring may already be covered in the owner's/renter' policy - but additonal coverage can be obtained through a rider or even a separate insurance for the ring.

About the jeweler - if he knew the rhodium was "corrupted" whatever that means - then whay did he sell you the ring?

 

[valeria101]

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On 4/13/2004 11:10:21 PM DavidEmslie wrote:



I have read articals that state they still have a 60% to %80 failure rate over all, including those done right and those not done right.

----------------

I would not try to get another tension setting in precious metal. These metals are not naturally suitable for tension settings and need a serious doze of specialized treatment to acquire the needed phisical properties.

Titanium is much more suitable for this job... if you like the look.

And how about those settings that look like tension without actually being so (have a bridge under stone)? Those should be safe without all the extra technological touch...

 

[Rank Amateur]

How can it be loose? Isn't the diamond in compression in a "tension" setting? If it is loose it would seem not very compressed - if at all. Re-setting it is a job only a few places can handle. I would think it would have to go back to the original manufacturer, unless this local guy is trying his hand at tension settings.

I know Stephen Kretchmer works hard to get the alloys just right and holds quite a few alloy patents.

 

[Rank Amateur]

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On 4/15/2004 10:01:58 PM Kel G wrote:

I also forgot...I am going to be getting some insurance for the ring and I was wondering what is the best way to go about it? I was directed to jewelers mutual. They quoted me at about $25.00 annually and that is for loss, theft and damage and even cover for mysterious disappearance. Now I am very new to all of this, but I feel that there is a catch somewhere...$25 to cover my ring which cost a lot more??? Maybe they are just going on the faith that nothing will happen to it. Any information on this subject will be most welcomed...
I was also advised to get a bonded diamond...from what I understand, a bonded diamond is pretty much an insurance policy, if anything were to happen to it, it would be replaced? My jeweler does not have bonded diamonds so that is why I did not get it...anyway Thank you all for the posts...they have been a great help. Oh, and the tension set ring that I bought does have the thin band of gold under the diamond holding the ring together. Is this still considered a tension setting?


I LOVE FINALS WEEK!!!!!

----------------

I just re-read this.

You don't have a real "tension" setting. If there is metal under the diamond it is not a tension setting. I hope you didn't pay big $$ as if it were a real Stephen Kretchmer!

The "bonded" diamond thing sounds like that scam from Diamond Cutters International. Run far away from DCI and cover the ring with a rider on your homeowner's policy.

 

[Kel G]

I was aware that this wasn't a true tension set ring...but it was the closest I could think of. If you could enlighten me as to what I really have that would be great. I have heard of the name as being a floating setting...I don't know educate me please. Even still, should my diamond be coming loose after two weeks?

 

[valeria101]

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On 4/17/2004 3:26:34 AM Kel G wrote:



should my diamond be coming loose after two weeks?
----------------

Of course not! Whatever the model, this was not properly handled. I do not know what exactly could have coused the failure of the setting, but the most likely culprits would be - missmatched size (= the size of settign does notmatch the stone) or a thin "bridge" below the stone (this can bend and so the sochet keeping the diamond in pace becomes larger).

Regardless, this one setting needs replacing - it would only get worse.

Also, given that the ring has larger polished surfaces, rhodium plating will likely not endure wear for long.

There must be better out there

For me, tension means Ti... but I surely realize that the option might not be universally admired. There is one 'near-tension' ring design I would trust to stay in one piece; the model is probably better known from some Cartier rings, but it is by no means only done by them. (below). It does look like a tension settign from top down and is quite a robust and elegant construction that can be adapted for a variety of gem sizes and shapes. Just my take on the issue, of course.

 

[valeria101]

 

[Kel G]

So maybe if I were to get a slightly larger stone for the setting? I find it quite strange because this is the stone that the jeweler picked out for the setting...oh well, maybe this is a freak of nature and a one time deal...I have certainly been on the rollercoaster ride over this. I thank all of you for your posts and inputs, they really mean a lot to me and to my fiance.
Just a quick question...Have any of you been kicked out of a jewelry shop before? When I went to the local shop here in town to see if he could repair my ring for me, he started to tell me that my ring did not have a rhodium plating on it. When I told him it did he got very defensive and started telling me that it did not and proceeded to show me a brand new setting with a rhodium plate on it and he then told me that mine was not...so I told him once again that it was plated (I failed to mention that it had worn off...I thought any jeweler would be able to tell)...anyway, he then asked me in a stern loud voice "ARE YOU A JEWELER?" I told him I wasn't and that the gentleman I purchased the ring from was a jeweler. Well this man told me that I bought a bum ring and then he told me in his stern loud voice "I don't even want to do business with you...just get out."

So I told him that this was the reason I didn't do business with him in the first place...because he treated me like a jerk.

The moral of the story...NEVER BUY A RING FROM A JEWELRY STORE THAT IS IN A COLLEGE TOWN!...OR DALE'S IN REXBURG IDAHO.

 

[wallace]

KelG,

I am very sorry about your recent encounter. Friends and I have exchanged the rude comments we have received from jewelers - already astonishing - but your story is outrageous! You should report this incident to the Better Business Bureau. It even sounds scary! Remember, this is not a reflection on you or your ring. You did not deserve that at all. He is a very poor businessman and perhaps even a bit insane - nothing to do with you.

Is there anyway you get a full return from the original jeweler? It may not be very romantic but it might really be for the best in the end. The setting situation is ridiculous and it does not souns like this man is as knowledgable as you deserve - no ill will meant, but you may need someone less amatuer? more experienced? in order to get what you want for a lovely and lasting engagement ring.

You may not have a lot of time but take the opportunity to educate yourself more about diamonds and settings on this site and some the excellent tutorials on other sites like Good Old GOld and Nice Ice. Ask lots of questions. You may find that you can get more for your money and better service buying online. It's better to take the time and get it right. It happened to me and although it was not fun, it worked out for the best in the end.

You can also try to go window shopping with other jewelers in the area - as if you are starting from scratch and then see who is willing to work with you. Anyone who does not start out by being pleasant and informative - just walk out! If you can't return the ring, at least this way you may meet a jeweler who can help you with your current ring.

Are you willing to return the ring if you can? Please keep us posted! and best of luck to you.

 

[valeria101]

Gee... maybe a remedial course of negotiation would help that guy !? Maybe...

I surely hope you find a better deal and service

 

[starfire]

Hi Kel,

Having read your posts, it seems clear to me that your jeweler made a mis-representation about his ring being tension-set.

The tension ring, as previous posters mentioned, is not supposed to have a thinkgold strip joining the shanks of the ring under the diamond. You should return the ring immediately, or risk losing the diamond altogether, if you still wear it.

I deal occasionally with Niessing in Singapore. Recently, I received a Niessing tension ring which my customer ordered, and I tried to pry it apart (out of sheer curiousity) with my own hands. Impossible. Check out the Niessing Website for more information and pictures of settings.

It is difficult to understand how a well-made white gold ring should turn yellow within 2 weeks! Unless you have been playing with sandpaper!

Do yourself a favour and go demand a FULL refund for the ring AND the diamond. Your trust in this jeweler has been broken. Don't even bother keeping the diamond, you can get another one.

And then never go there again. Stores like that make consumers like you fearful of trusting jewelers, and outright mis-representation is unethical.

Best regards,
Stephen Tan
Charlotte Atelier
Singapore