switching center stones

[bluegirl123]

Hey there,

I've been looking at used rings to put my future stones, as I need to know if I can afford to set all the stones I've been itching to buy!

Will most jewelers able to do this and can it be costly? I'm only interested in prong settings, perhaps with halos. In terms of stone size, do i have match the existing center exactly or can there be a bit of give? What exactly does the swapping entail (eg, can the prongs be reused again, or is it replaced? does that affect the head as well?)

Thanks!

 

[jstarfireb]

I'm not well-versed in this, but my thought is that if the prongs aren't damaged and the stones are roughly the same size, it's usually not a problem. But I'm also looking forward to hearing what people have to say.

 

[Indylady]

Honestly, I think its a hassle and 'project rings' often end up being more $$$ than expected as problems come out of the woodwork. I'd only go after an existing, already set ring if it were a) a killer setting, something antique that I couldn't or wouldn't want to replicate or b) really a good buy (easier said than done).

 

[LD]

I do this all the time! If I see a setting with a naff stone but a great price I'll often buy it and then replace the centre stone. However, you've got to be very careful about measurements and it takes a bit of practice before you know for sure what you're doing! Having a jeweller unset and then re-set a different stone is not much more hassle so shouldn't cost much more.

Here's an example of a Chrome Tourmaline (that I hated but bought because I loved the ring)! I then replaced it with an Umbalite Garnet which although I knew was bigger, did fit but meant I then had no airline. I really like the finished ring and I think it looks so much better with the Umbalite in it.

 

[marymm]

I have also done this - but only with prong settings and swapping out stones with the same mm dimensions. My local jeweler only charged me his stone-setting fee (between $25 and $40) - the ring settings I used were essentially brand-new so no extra work on the prongs or the head was required. It is an excellent and affordable way to acquire ring settings for your loose gemstones, but I echo everyone else's advice to be cognizant of the mm dimensions. (Lovingdiamonds - your halo stone switch is an inspiration to me; I may have to venture into more complex settings seeing the wonderful results possible!)

 

[Michael_E]

Swapping out stones can be fairly easy or it can be nearly impossible. Here's a little list to guide you in looking at old settings with this in mind.

1. Really old settings in white gold tend to have a large amount of nickel and can be so hard and brittle as to keep the bench person from being able to bend the prongs at all without breaking them. If the setting is 20 years old or older then the chances are good that it's very hard. Yellow gold and platinum are not usually a problem. The upside is that anything can be repaired...if you don't mind paying for the use of a laser welder for the tough repairs.

2. If the existing setting uses long prongs, then it's much easier to bend them back without damage, BUT sometimes stuff happens and a prong or two may require replacing.

3. If an old setting uses short prongs, beads or bezels, then you are usually going to need to replace some of them to reset a stone, as they often need to be cut off to remove the old stone. These methods of setting also require that the new stone be very close in size to the old stone or even more of the setting will need to be replaced.

4. Depth is a BIG DEAL when changing out stones. Bigger stones are deeper and since you don't want the culet cutting your finger, the stone must be set higher. If you're going up in size significantly, then you'll need new, thicker and longer prongs to support the new stone. This is easily done if the old setting has diamonds or sapphires as side stones. If it has anything else as side stones it is often impossible, as these will break and fall out when the new prongs are installed.

5. Thickness is also a big deal when replacing stones. Thin settings are much more difficult to do work on with a torch, since they tend to turn into a puddle very rapidly if overheated. If you really have to use a thin setting, consider getting someone with a laser welder to work on it, (and consider that this will cost quite a bit, as laser welders cost 20K+ and the work they do has to cover the cost of the machines, +make a profit).

6. Ring size. You can size almost anything, but when old rings have small diamonds all over them it becomes difficult and expensive to change their size. This is because changing size causes the band to bend and this will usually loosen many, if not all, of the diamonds in that setting. Re-tightening them is time consuming and expensive, so try to purchase old rings which are as close in size to your finger as possible.

The moral? If you're going to buy an older setting, then buy the best quality that you can. If the setting started cheap and low quality, it will stay that way and trying to do anything to it later will be either futile or expensive. On the other hand, a quality older setting can usually be manipulated much more easily and at a far lower cost after the fact. If you can't tell the difference, then take it to, (or send some pictures to), your jeweler and ask them what they think.

 

[LD]

6. Ring size. You can size almost anything, but when old rings have small diamonds all over them it becomes difficult and expensive to change their size. This is because changing size causes the band to bend and this will usually loosen many, if not all, of the diamonds in that setting. Re-tightening them is time consuming and expensive, so try to purchase old rings which are as close in size to your finger as possible.

Michael I agree that almost anything can be sized BUT I steer completely away channel set settings and also anything with pave or micro diamonds (unless the ring is my size). I believe that a ring should only go 1-2 sizes either way and even that can be problematic. So, I look for my size or within 1 size if I'm looking at an older setting. I've heard (and been on the receiving end of) so many horror stories of diamonds popping out after resizing - even when prongs have been checked and tightened. The integrity of the ring can be compromised and it's just not worth going to the expense of constantly putting things right.

 

[LadyMaria]

I do this all the time! If I see a setting with a naff stone but a great price I'll often buy it and then replace the centre stone. However, you've got to be very careful about measurements and it takes a bit of practice before you know for sure what you're doing! Having a jeweller unset and then re-set a different stone is not much more hassle so shouldn't cost much more.

Here's an example of a Chrome Tourmaline (that I hated but bought because I loved the ring)! I then replaced it with an Umbalite Garnet which although I knew was bigger, did fit but meant I then had no airline. I really like the finished ring and I think it looks so much better with the Umbalite in it.

GORGEOUS!!!!

DH upgraded the diamond in my engagement ring for our 10 anniversary, so I've changed out stones too and had no problem. The original diamond was pretty darn small (my kidney stone was bigger...but it was what we could afford at the time) and set in an illusion setting (faceted white gold around the diamond). He picked a diamond that was about the size of the illusion setting and diamond together and put it in the original ring. I've been wearing the new diamond for nearly 6 years now and it's been fine.

 

[bluegirl123]

wow thanks for all the helpful advice, especially Michael!

Since I'm just starting to learn and acquire jewelery, I guess I better stick to new, but cheaper settings for now.

 

[FrekeChild]

Here is my experience with it:
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/lavender-lilac-spinel-antique-e-w-ring.126627/

Setting: $50
Center stone: $15
Repair/replace/bench fees: $300

So yeah. Worth it? Yes. Worth it for everyone? Probably not.