Spessartite Ring

[seaurchin]

My stone should arrive in a few days. I'm thinking of a design like the one below for it. Except I only want diamonds on top of the halo and on the top side of the band. I always figure the more there are, the more that can fall out and become a big pain!

Oh, I also don't want the milgrain that's shown on the white metal below.

What do you think? Do y'all think the prongs look good or would something else look better?

14k yellow gold and 14k white gold or something else?

Lab diamonds or mined diamonds?

I also have to figure out what the gallery will look like. I'm thinking it should be as open as possible to let a lot of light in. Thoughts?

I thought I had it all figured out but now I see I still have a few things to decide on.

All input is most welcome!

 

[Double E]

Excited for any Spess project lately!

I think it’s quite classic as a diamond halo ring which the shanks also set with melee. And agree the area covered with melee is a bit too much in the inspire pic. More simple the better.

Yea do however noted the the part of the yellow gold mounting is somehow like a bezel, at least visually. Do you like it? I feel it provides a bit more protect, but do you want to see a bit more of the girdle or side view of the Spess? I do like claw prongs in terms of the prong shape however.

As for the gallery of the setting, removing all those side melees makes me think it allows more room for creation.

I can’t help on colour of gold. As I having figured out what I want for the pendant I envision also. Orange is a bit tricky to find one colour to mat…

And position of prongs! Is such “squarish” location of prongs a common rule for oval? How about kite set? This stone is also of a more elongated shape than usual oval, how do we make it look it’s best?

 

[seaurchin]

Excited for any Spess project lately!

I think it’s quite classic as a diamond halo ring which the shanks also set with melee. And agree the area covered with melee is a bit too much in the inspire pic. More simple the better.

Yea do however noted the the part of the yellow gold mounting is somehow like a bezel, at least visually. Do you like it? I feel it provides a bit more protect, but do you want to see a bit more of the girdle or side view of the Spess? I do like claw prongs in terms of the prong shape however.

As for the gallery of the setting, removing all those side melees makes me think it allows more room for creation.

I can’t help on colour of gold. As I having figured out what I want for the pendant I envision also. Orange is a bit tricky to find one colour to mat…

And position of prongs! Is such “squarish” location of prongs a common rule for oval? How about kite set? This stone is also of a more elongated shape than usual oval, how do we make it look it’s best?

Thank you so much for the thoughts. Definitely keeping them in mind.

 

[Rfisher]

This spess in a halo of diamonds (either kind) - heck yeah!!

 

[T L]

Looks good to me. I would just make sure it’s not a closed back, so you can clean the stone from the bottom.

 

[seaurchin]

Here's a bit different style, with no prongs. Not sure what it is that I don't like about the lack of prongs there.

I like how the halo is a little sloped though (or whatever it's called in jewelry speak). The halo in my original inspiration ring should probably be sloped a little too, since I don't want the diamonds shown around the halo's edge on it.

 

[Autumn in New England]

My stone should arrive in a few days. I'm thinking of a design like the one below for it. Except I only want diamonds on top of the halo and on the top side of the band. I always figure the more there are, the more that can fall out and become a big pain!

Oh, I also don't want the milgrain that's shown on the white metal below.

What do you think? Do y'all think the prongs look good or would something else look better?

14k yellow gold and 14k white gold or something else?

Lab diamonds or mined diamonds?

I also have to figure out what the gallery will look like. I'm thinking it should be as open as possible to let a lot of light in. Thoughts?

I thought I had it all figured out but now I see I still have a few things to decide on.

All input is most welcome!

This is lovely... and I agree about only including diamonds you can actually see face up (less worry and cost). I love the traditional prongs. Are you going with the bezel? I only ask because I know you mentioned wanting to let as much light in as possible. If that's the case, you may want to proceed sans bezel. The lab or natural diamonds question is definitely a personal one. I prefer earth-mined and untreated everything. But lab diamonds or moissanite are a great way to add bling without blowing your funds for the next gem. About the metal choice, I'm sort of loving the yellow gold center stone mounting with white for the rest. This will be a beauty! Can't wait to hear your review on the stone in person.

 

[seaurchin]

This is lovely... and I agree about only including diamonds you can actually see face up (less worry and cost). I love the traditional prongs. Are you going with the bezel? I only ask because I know you mentioned wanting to let as much light in as possible. If that's the case, you may want to proceed sans bezel. The lab or natural diamonds question is definitely a personal one. I prefer earth-mined and untreated everything. But lab diamonds or moissanite are a great way to add bling without blowing your funds for the next gem. About the metal choice, I'm sort of loving the yellow gold center stone mounting with white for the rest. This will be a beauty! Can't wait to hear your review on the stone in person.

I kinda want both lol, the yellow gold bezel (semi-bezel?) around the center stone AND to let as much light in as possible. I'm hoping a decent compromise would be to just keep the gallery as open as possible so the maximum possible light gets in from the side, at least. However, I really don't know much about how light travels through a stone...

I guess I'll have to see what the price difference is re mined or lab diamonds (or moissanite). Thanks!

 

[seaurchin]

Here's another inspiration ring. I love it but I think it also might be too fancy for my lifestyle and not get much wear because of it. This center stone is about twice the size of mine but it would still be a whole lot of blinginess:

 

[seaurchin]

Okay, so now I'm thinking what about the yellow gold bezel and prongs shown in #1 below, combined with the white gold halo and band shown in #2 below. Better than all #1 or no?

#1



#2

 

[Starstruck8]

I know you have answered this already, but I'll ask it again: are you set on the bezel?

I'm thinking that a wide bezel may work against the 'sparkly' theme of the stone and halo. Also, that there may not be enough contrast between the yellow gold bezel and the orange stone. (Compare with the common emerald/thin YG bezel/halo, where the yellow gold offsets the green stone.)

This example of mine is a completely different concept, but it illustrates a point: the 18K YG isn't helping the orange sapphire as much as I hoped it would.


Of the concepts you have posted, I like the bezel-less double halo. Perhaps you could do this with a wider single halo?

Of course, as always, your stone, your ring, your taste. I just wanted to share my experience.

 

[seaurchin]

Thanks for all the thoughts so far! Much appreciated. This is so much fun.

@Starstruck8 I get what you are saying about the yellow gold not providing contrast and also breaking up the sparkle, which I did not think of before, but I do really like it next to the orange-yellow stone. Thank you. Also, is that a loliondo spess in your ring?

A couple more things I'm wondering about now:

1) Should I get 18k yellow gold for the bezel and prongs for a more yellow appearance or just stick with 14k?

2) Would the bezel and prongs from the first inspo picture go well with the rest of the ring from the second inspo picture? I'm not good at picturing things.

So many tiny details omg.

 

[Rfisher]

2) Would the bezel and prongs from the first inspo picture go well with the rest of the ring from the second inspo picture? I'm not good at picturing things.

this is what I would choose.
I would have the spess’s girdle not encompassed in the (faux) bezel, I would have the bottom edge of the girdle sitting just above it. Just above it. Right at it. Not 2mm above it like some setters choose to do.
Preferences vary and all that

 

[seaurchin]

It arrived early.

 

[T L]

It arrived early.

Oh wow, it’s even more orange in your photo!

 

[Starstruck8]

Thanks for all the thoughts so far! Much appreciated. This is so much fun.

@Starstruck8 I get what you are saying about the yellow gold not providing contrast and also breaking up the sparkle, which I did not think of before, but I do really like it next to the orange-yellow stone. Thank you. Also, is that a loliondo spess in your ring?

A couple more things I'm wondering about now:

1) Should I get 18k yellow gold for the bezel and prongs for a more yellow appearance or just stick with 14k?

2) Would the bezel and prongs from the first inspo picture go well with the rest of the ring from the second inspo picture? I'm not good at picturing things.

So many tiny details omg.

First, your stone is fabulous - it looks even oranger than in the cutter's photo.

FWIW, I'd still do without the faux-bezel. But I will say that your stone, which is true orange (rather that yellow-orange like mine) will have better contrast with the metal. If you go with the faux-bezel, I'd go for 18K yellow gold - this will give a 'rich' look that your fabulous stone deserves.

Also, is that a loliondo spess in your ring?

It's an orange sapphire.

 

[Autumn in New England]

It arrived early.

Oh what citrus-y goodness! So stunning... can't wait to see what you settle on for the mounting.

 

[seaurchin]

Thanks to everyone so far. Much appreciated!

I contacted DK and will soon have my project on the way. Whoop whoop!

It will be done with lab diamonds and the yellow gold part will be 18k.

 

[Autumn in New England]

Thanks to everyone so far. Much appreciated!

I contacted DK and will soon have my project on the way. Whoop whoop!

It will be done with lab diamonds and the yellow gold part will be 18k.

@seaurchin Well this sounds inspired... I'm really eager to see the result!!

Hey quick question for you (and anyone else in the know). I have never used David Klass before, but obviously he and his team are beloved around these parts. I assume by your post and others, that he works with stones not purchased through him, correct? What about melee? I'm all set with melee I've purchased through YR, as she will set them for me, along with my main stone/s. But I do have one set of melee that I purchased elsewhere. I want to inner halo a stone with the melee and then have the jeweler source larger white diamonds for the outer halo. So it will still be a worthwhile project (money-wise) for him/her. However, some jewelers don't like to work with melee purchased elsewhere, because it can be temperamental, and they don't want the responsibility (these are FCDs though, so they're pretty durable). What do you think?

 

[seaurchin]

@seaurchin Well this sounds inspired... I'm really eager to see the result!!

Hey quick question for you (and anyone else in the know). I have never used David Klass before, but obviously he and his team are beloved around these parts. I assume by your post and others, that he works with stones not purchased through him, correct? What about melee? I'm all set with melee I've purchased through YR, as she will set them for me, along with my main stone/s. But I do have one set of melee that I purchased elsewhere. I want to inner halo a stone with the melee and then have the jeweler source larger white diamonds for the outer halo. So it will still be a worthwhile project (money-wise) for him/her. However, some jewelers don't like to work with melee purchased elsewhere, because it can be temperamental, and they don't want the responsibility (these are FCDs though, so they're pretty durable). What do you think?

He definitely works with stones not purchased through him. I don't know about melee though. I've only used melee lab diamonds, which he supplied. This will be my fifth project with him. I've been very pleased.

 

[Autumn in New England]

He definitely works with stones not purchased through him. I don't know about melee though. I've only used melee lab diamonds, which he supplied. This will be my fifth project with him. I've been very pleased.

Ok, thank you! I may try contacting him in the future. Hopefully he responds in the affirmative, because I'm not sure who else to check with.

 

[seaurchin]

Okay, if anyone is still putting up with me lol the spess is mailed and I already have a CAD. Can you believe that?! I think it might even be just what I want, too. Anyone care to weigh in on anything? Also, if I get this ring made with only one CAD, I am going to frame this CAD and hang it on my wall as a summertime miracle haha.

A few things that have crossed my mind:

- Is the bezel too thick? I requested that it cover the girdle. I have twin, contradictory fears of having the stone get damaged from not protecting the girdle adequately and darkening the stone too much with a bezel.

- Will it be enough finger coverage, width wise? I do not want it to get lost or look like I stole it from a kindergartener. I need to consider my manhands.

- Is my chosen design boring? On the one hand, how often do we get a piece custom made, right? It is a big, rare-ish chance to slip in something original. On the other hand, I feel like boring also equals classic, which means safe and always in style, with far less chance of ending up with something uniquely ugly and weird lol.

- Also, if anyone noticed, it looks like the band in my second inspiration pic (the one I am using for everything except the yellow gold bezel/pronogs), the band is a little wider on each side at the top. I was asked about this but IDK, all the same width as shown in the CAD below might look better. ?

- Do you think having the gallery as open as possible, as shown, will help more light get to the stone and help keep it light and bright?

All thoughts muchly appreciated!

 

[seaurchin]

I wonder if the halo diamonds should be a little slanted. I guess I'll try to find the original inspiration ring #2 from different sides. ?

 

[PrecisionGem]

When a stone is properly cut, the light enters the crown, and is refracted and reflected then goes back out the crown. This is then the brilliance you see. These are all ray traces of your stone's design.

The first one shows the light entering the crown and bouncing back out. The other two are light rays entering the side of the stone. Notice they do not get returned to your eye.

You could totally enclose the the stone from the sides and it would still be a bright stone.

 

[seaurchin]

@PrecisionGem Thank you SO much! I have been trying to figure out how that works forever. Much appreciated!!

 

[CaseyLouLou]

When a stone is properly cut, the light enters the crown, and is refracted and reflected then goes back out the crown. This is then the brilliance you see. These are all ray traces of your stone's design.

The first one shows the light entering the crown and bouncing back out. The other two are light rays entering the side of the stone. Notice they do not get returned to your eye.

You could totally enclose the the stone from the sides and it would still be a bright stone.

This makes sense and is what I thought too. My only question is why stones appear darker when set vs unset.

 

[CaseyLouLou]

Ok, thank you! I may try contacting him in the future. Hopefully he responds in the affirmative, because I'm not sure who else to check with.

I have worked with DK a couple of times and he is willing to use melee I provide. It may or may not have been cost effective for me to have done it that way.

 

[CaseyLouLou]

Okay, if anyone is still putting up with me lol the spess is mailed and I already have a CAD. Can you believe that?! I think it might even be just what I want, too. Anyone care to weigh in on anything? Also, if I get this ring made with only one CAD, I am going to frame this CAD and hang it on my wall as a summertime miracle haha.

A few things that have crossed my mind:

- Is the bezel too thick? I requested that it cover the girdle. I have twin, contradictory fears of having the stone get damaged from not protecting the girdle adequately and darkening the stone too much with a bezel.

- Will it be enough finger coverage, width wise? I do not want it to get lost or look like I stole it from a kindergartener. I need to consider my manhands.

- Is my chosen design boring? On the one hand, how often do we get a piece custom made, right? It is a big, rare-ish chance to slip in something original. On the other hand, I feel like boring also equals classic, which means safe and always in style, with far less chance of ending up with something uniquely ugly and weird lol.

- Also, if anyone noticed, it looks like the band in my second inspiration pic (the one I am using for everything except the yellow gold bezel/pronogs), the band is a little wider on each side at the top. I was asked about this but IDK, all the same width as shown in the CAD below might look better. ?

- Do you think having the gallery as open as possible, as shown, will help more light get to the stone and help keep it light and bright?

All thoughts muchly appreciated!

I like it a lot but if you want to add some detail to the gallery you could do something like this.

 

[seaurchin]

@Thanks, CaseyLouLou. I think I'll just leave the gallery open on this one after all. I just approved the CAD. Now I feel the need to clean and cook as punishment for my greediness.

 

[Autumn in New England]

Okay, if anyone is still putting up with me lol the spess is mailed and I already have a CAD. Can you believe that?! I think it might even be just what I want, too. Anyone care to weigh in on anything? Also, if I get this ring made with only one CAD, I am going to frame this CAD and hang it on my wall as a summertime miracle haha.

A few things that have crossed my mind:

- Is the bezel too thick? I requested that it cover the girdle. I have twin, contradictory fears of having the stone get damaged from not protecting the girdle adequately and darkening the stone too much with a bezel.

- Will it be enough finger coverage, width wise? I do not want it to get lost or look like I stole it from a kindergartener. I need to consider my manhands.

- Is my chosen design boring? On the one hand, how often do we get a piece custom made, right? It is a big, rare-ish chance to slip in something original. On the other hand, I feel like boring also equals classic, which means safe and always in style, with far less chance of ending up with something uniquely ugly and weird lol.

- Also, if anyone noticed, it looks like the band in my second inspiration pic (the one I am using for everything except the yellow gold bezel/pronogs), the band is a little wider on each side at the top. I was asked about this but IDK, all the same width as shown in the CAD below might look better. ?

- Do you think having the gallery as open as possible, as shown, will help more light get to the stone and help keep it light and bright?

All thoughts muchly appreciated!

I'm loving watching this entire process! First, never could this ring look "kiddish" with that large a stone!! As you said, this is a classic design being set with a rare and fabulous stone. We see spessartines a lot here, but think about the fact that most people have never heard of them or seen them. So I think it will be a showstopper. I also think the band looks appropriate in the CAD, but if you like the split shank look, you could always add it. The head of the ring will definitely be large enough for the look. About the bezel... it does look a smidge wide in the CAD. I'm not sure if that will translate once completed though. Maybe just mention it to the jeweler and see what he says. It may be standard. Good luck!!