Some help/thoughts on stones and colors for a setting please

[redwood66]

Hello Everyone! I have been scouring CS to get info and learn a ton. All the knowledge is just amazing here.

My dilemma is I am working on a vintage style setting because I love it and have not found any true vintage ring that I like within my $ reach. That said I have no stones yet. Is that normal?

This will be a RHR on middle finger. My thoughts are 4 OECs surrounding a blue sapphire in the bezel. Now the questions. Will I be able to find a nice sapphire under $1000 that fits my desired specifications below? (preferably well under) The center is shown now as a 6mm but could always vary a bit while still keeping the proportions. The surrounding stones are shown as 4mm right now but could also vary bit depending on the actual stones.

The color I am drawn to is shown at gemfix http://www.gemfix.com/sapphire_blue.html#thumb in #1139 and 1101 on this page. I like these stones but am not sure about the cut for a vintage style ring? Now the next question. Is the color I like too dark to be set in a bezel and still show as the pictured color? I don't want it to be too light but not too dark either. If you could post colors and/or suggestions of stones within my budget that would work in a bezel setting. This would be greatly appreciated as I am new to colored stones and do not want to make a costly mistake.

Thank you in advance! And please tell me if I did not give enough info to make suggestions! I guess I should add that I don't need you to find me a specific stone but show me colors that will end up being close to the stones above after being set in a bezel. I am afraid that I might need to find a lighter color because it will darken once set I guess. Or is this incorrect thinking?

Also the CAD is in its early stages and I have time to search for the right stones.

 

[redwood66]

Re: Some help/thoughts on stones and colors for a setting pl

Am I possibly asking the wrong or confusing questions? My biggest concern this that with this fully closed bezel and no light coming underneath that the stone will darken and I should be looking for a lighter color? In looking at vintage rings online at Lang's many of the bezel set ones appear dark but I am not knowledgeable enough to know if that is because of the setting or if it was just a darker stone to begin with. Thank you.

 

[minousbijoux]

Re: Some help/thoughts on stones and colors for a setting pl

You are asking the right questions. So basically, you are looking for a 6mm round blue sapphire, correct? Can you tell us the level of treatment that is acceptable to you? That will make a huge difference in price.

 

[redwood66]

Re: Some help/thoughts on stones and colors for a setting pl

minous - yes I am looking for around that size as it does not have to be calibrated. We can adjust for the actual stone. Not knowing enough about setting a colored stone in a bezel and how much it will change the final color once set is my dilemma. If you look a the color I like on the gemfix link and specific stone numbers I listed, will those examples be darker significantly once set in a bezel? Because that will not be what I want. KWIM? This will be a long process for me I can tell. My jeweler can probably source a stone but I wanted more opinions and help to learn how to get the final look I want.

Forgot to add that heat is plenty fine with me and with my budget I know I will not get a perfect stone.

 

[minousbijoux]

Re: Some help/thoughts on stones and colors for a setting pl

minous - yes I am looking for around that size as it does not have to be calibrated. We can adjust for the actual stone. Not knowing enough about setting a colored stone in a bezel and how much it will change the final color once set is my dilemma. If you look a the color I like on the gemfix link and specific stone numbers I listed, will those examples be darker significantly once set in a bezel? Because that will not be what I want. KWIM? This will be a long process for me I can tell. My jeweler can probably source a stone but I wanted more opinions and help to learn how to get the final look I want.

Forgot to add that heat is plenty fine with me and with my budget I know I will not get a perfect stone.

Yes, I understood your questions, but needed to know the level of treatment acceptable before I searched stones for you. The quick answer to your question is yes, those will definitely darken and that if its a bezel, you should shoot for one shade lighter as your starting point.

 

[pregcurious]

Re: Some help/thoughts on stones and colors for a setting pl

To see how a stone will look in a completely closed bezel, just put the bottom in aluminum foil. There are very good considerations for a halo in post written by a user named Chrono here:

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/ring-setting-for-my-ruby.190744/#post-3476482#p3476482']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/ring-setting-for-my-ruby.190744/#post-3476482#p3476482[/URL]

In a full bezel, light will still come in from the top of the stone. If the stone is well cut, light will be able to bounce around the inside of the stone and back out the top. Even with a well cut stone, expect it to get a little darker.

 

[redwood66]

Re: Some help/thoughts on stones and colors for a setting pl

minous - yes I am looking for around that size as it does not have to be calibrated. We can adjust for the actual stone. Not knowing enough about setting a colored stone in a bezel and how much it will change the final color once set is my dilemma. If you look a the color I like on the gemfix link and specific stone numbers I listed, will those examples be darker significantly once set in a bezel? Because that will not be what I want. KWIM? This will be a long process for me I can tell. My jeweler can probably source a stone but I wanted more opinions and help to learn how to get the final look I want.

Forgot to add that heat is plenty fine with me and with my budget I know I will not get a perfect stone.

Yes, I understood your questions, but needed to know the level of treatment acceptable before I searched stones for you. The quick answer to your question is yes, those will definitely darken and that if its a bezel, you should shoot for one shade lighter as your starting point.

Thank you. Sorry to have been so overzealous with stating my point many times. PC - I will have to find the stone online and make a choice from pics because there is very little locally and they seem to love the ones they have too much by the $ they are asking.

Maybe based on this thread I should have Michael E help out too.

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/the-optics-of-bezel-settings.23726/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/the-optics-of-bezel-settings.23726/[/URL]

 

[JewelFreak]

Re: Some help/thoughts on stones and colors for a setting pl

As Minou said, you'll want to go a little lighter for a bezeled stone. I looked through every vendor I can think of & pickings in that size in your budget, with good saturation, are kind of slim at the moment. What about Gemfix's No. 1127? New stones show up on vendors' sites, though. You might also contact a few to ask what they have -- very often they have stock that isn't posted.

It can take patience to find a blue sappire that fits what you want -- they go like wildfire right now, very popular. Keep the faith -- it will turn up. Very special ring you've designed!

--- Laurie

 

[redwood66]

Re: Some help/thoughts on stones and colors for a setting pl

Thanks! So to get the look I want you really think I need to look at color as light as 1127? This is very helpful to me because I would have thought that one was too light. I was looking at 1138 for color also and I like the chunkier cut but is it not saturated enough? I have emailed Michael before and he has always been very helpful too.

 

[minousbijoux]

Re: Some help/thoughts on stones and colors for a setting pl

Picking up on what Laurie said about the dearth in supply, I would be careful not to limit your options too much. Just something to keep in mind

From what I understand, sometimes Gemfix stones are a bit darker in hand than they are in their photos (often true of vendors). It seems that their hand shots are more representative of color - at least its a plus to have skin tone to help gauge true color. So I would gravitate towards the hand shots, as small as they are.

In the first two stones you chose for color, I see a difference in saturation and tone for each of them, so you're not really comparing equal darkness/lightness. 1139 is darker and less saturated (with what may be color zoning) and the other, 1101, is slightly lighter in tone with greater saturation. I agree with Laurie that 1127 would look great bezeled, but it might be too light for what you seek. The one you chose, 1138, is likely a good compromise. But how much of a hurry are you in for this? I ask because if you look around for a bit, you might be able to find a nice one for less money - that is, as Laurie points out, if you can find one. The good news is that they are definitely easier to find in sub-carat sizes.

 

[redwood66]

Re: Some help/thoughts on stones and colors for a setting pl

Great info minous. I am in no hurry and can continue to refine the design while searching. I think I definitely need it to be at least 6mm in order to keep proportions I am looking for in the ring. This is a difficult process and am glad I am not looking for an e-ring stone or some other major purchase. Colored stones is sure a new world for me.

 

[redwood66]

Re: Some help/thoughts on stones and colors for a setting pl

I had originally wanted a red stone for the center of this ring but due to the even harder search for a ruby abandoned that idea. What do you all think of maybe putting a spinel in this design? Red or blue would be the next choice. I love the red in an excellent spinel but would the search be just as difficult as a good blue sapphire? Or would this make finding easier and a bit less expensive? I know even less of spinels.

 

[chrono]

Re: Some help/thoughts on stones and colors for a setting pl

Red and blue spinel will be less expensive and adding them as options definitely increases your chances of finding something nice that suits you. Spinels are shifty stones though (shiftier than sapphires). Some consider this a positive but some don't like it.

 

[minousbijoux]

Re: Some help/thoughts on stones and colors for a setting pl

I had originally wanted a red stone for the center of this ring but due to the even harder search for a ruby abandoned that idea. What do you all think of maybe putting a spinel in this design? Red or blue would be the next choice. I love the red in an excellent spinel but would the search be just as difficult as a good blue sapphire? Or would this make finding easier and a bit less expensive? I know even less of spinels.

Great idea on the red spinel, not sure you'll be able to find a blue spinel that satisfies your blue expectations. I say this because I have seen less than a handful of blue spinels where the color was clearly blue and not overly dark, overly grey or light in tone and completely lacking in saturation. Those I have seen have been outrageously priced. But maybe you'll have better luck than I have had. One of the nicest ones I've seen is in Jewelfreak's avatar.

 

[redwood66]

Re: Some help/thoughts on stones and colors for a setting pl

What do we think of this red spinel? It is a bit smaller at 5.4mm but color seems pretty. Cost is $280. I do not want to post link because of lurkers snatching. Site is calling color pinkish red.

 

[minousbijoux]

Re: Some help/thoughts on stones and colors for a setting pl

I'm afraid to say that I believe this will be overly dark in hand. I say this based on the tweezers, which appear underexposed. Sorry

 

[redwood66]

Re: Some help/thoughts on stones and colors for a setting pl

Well thank you for that and I would have not thought to look at them to see how the photo is lightened. I will keep looking.

Here is the link - are they not reliable then?

http://odysseygem.com/Gem_Shop/product_info.php?products_id=1803

 

[minousbijoux]

Re: Some help/thoughts on stones and colors for a setting pl

Tan is quite reliable (full disclosure: I don't think I've bought anything from him in almost a year). From my own experience, I would say his videos tend to be more accurate than his still photos. In this case, it just seems that the gem has been flooded with light, which is not uncommon with vendors since they have professional or semi-professional setups. I would still consider his stones, just look for vibrantly colored stones in the video.

 

[FrekeChild]

Re: Some help/thoughts on stones and colors for a setting pl

Tan is usually pretty good. Minou didn't mention the moderately sized window that stone also possesses.

 

[FrekeChild]

Re: Some help/thoughts on stones and colors for a setting pl

http://www.gemfix.com/spinel.html

Red-pink, 5.4mm. Gem 266

 

[minousbijoux]

Re: Some help/thoughts on stones and colors for a setting pl

Tan is usually pretty good. Minou didn't mention the moderately sized window that stone also possesses.

I didn't get any further than the color!

http://www.gemfix.com/spinel.html

Red-pink, 5.4mm. Gem 266

OP: this one has promise!

 

[chrono]

Re: Some help/thoughts on stones and colors for a setting pl

Tan is usually pretty good. Minou didn't mention the moderately sized window that stone also possesses.

The stone is tilted so what we are seeing is the tilt window. If it has a window, I expect it to be small. The off-roundness bugs me more than anything else.

 

[minousbijoux]

Re: Some help/thoughts on stones and colors for a setting pl

Tan is usually pretty good. Minou didn't mention the moderately sized window that stone also possesses.

The stone is tilted so what we are seeing is the tilt window. If it has a window, I expect it to be small. The off-roundness bugs me more than anything else.

Its a testament to what the stone is lacking that we each found something different that bugs us about it, lol!

 

[minousbijoux]

Re: Some help/thoughts on stones and colors for a setting pl

...and fwiw, Freke, I too see a window, which perhaps would close upon setting - but you know far more about that than I do!

 

[redwood66]

Re: Some help/thoughts on stones and colors for a setting pl

Minous I see the sapphire for sale on LT that you owned. Is it too light IRL for what I am looking for? Xiriah has it now.

 

[minousbijoux]

Re: Some help/thoughts on stones and colors for a setting pl

Hmm. Tough one to answer. I would describe it as a great starter stone. In fact, when I saw what you were looking for, I thought it was a shame that the stone had already sold as I thought it might be just perfect for you. But now I'm not so sure, since two have let it go. It is well cut and very blue - it does not black out and has some good sparkle. It is also very well priced for what it is - that I know for sure.

But it is not vividly saturated which means in some lightings it can look ever so slightly grey, if memory serves? Maybe Marymm can weigh in too?

 

[FrekeChild]

Re: Some help/thoughts on stones and colors for a setting pl

Tan is usually pretty good. Minou didn't mention the moderately sized window that stone also possesses.

The stone is tilted so what we are seeing is the tilt window. If it has a window, I expect it to be small. The off-roundness bugs me more than anything else.

This is a screen shot from the video. I'd say that's a big ol' window, NOT a tilt window.

 

[FrekeChild]

Re: Some help/thoughts on stones and colors for a setting pl

...and fwiw, Freke, I too see a window, which perhaps would close upon setting - but you know far more about that than I do!

Eh...I think the appearance of windows can be lessened by certain settings, but I don't actually think that any settings will really close up a window, it's always going to be there, it'll just be less obvious.

 

[minousbijoux]

Re: Some help/thoughts on stones and colors for a setting pl

...and fwiw, Freke, I too see a window, which perhaps would close upon setting - but you know far more about that than I do!

Eh...I think the appearance of windows can be lessened by certain settings, but I don't actually think that any settings will really close up a window, it's always going to be there, it'll just be less obvious.

This is good to know from an expert setter type. Thanks.

 

[redwood66]

Re: Some help/thoughts on stones and colors for a setting pl

Hmm. Tough one to answer. I would describe it as a great starter stone. In fact, when I saw what you were looking for, I thought it was a shame that the stone had already sold as I thought it might be just perfect for you. But now I'm not so sure, since two have let it go. It is well cut and very blue - it does not black out and has some good sparkle. It is also very well priced for what it is - that I know for sure.

But it is not vividly saturated which means in some lightings it can look ever so slightly grey, if memory serves? Maybe Marymm can weigh in too?

So because it will be set in a bezel I am wondering if this will work then because it is lighter. The lady currently selling it says she does not see grey but does see a bit of violet which I do not have a problem with. I would rather that than having it black out in the bezel indoors or low lighting.