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So if I prefer a brighter, whiter diamond…

Scooba116

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Apr 10, 2006
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199
I’ve recently confirmed that I prefer a diamond that is a bit more whiter and brighter and less firey that the typical super ideal MRB specs yield. so if I want a brighter, whiter stone should I be looking for a 33-34 crown angle and a 41 pavilion angle? Any range on the PA?

Also, does a CA above 35 always mean more fire? I have been looking at one vendor who seems to mostly use stone with a CA above 35, but they don’t look particularly firey in their videos. Should I avoid this vendor if I prefer less fire?IMG_0833.jpeg
 
Have you considered a 60/60 diamond? What size stone are you looking at?

Looks like the range for crown/pav for less fire/more brightness would be 31/41.5 to 34/41. Just depends on how much you
want to give on the fire. "Bright Balanced" does look like a good range to stay in.

If I wanted more brightness I would not go up to 35 on the crown.

Let's see if we can get @Garry H (Cut Nut) to comment on your question.
 
I'd probably target a 40.7-40.9 PA couple with a 34-35 CA and a 55-60 table. Assessment for cut precision and optics would be a must.
 
Look for "BIC" information. There are old threads on here about BIC (brilliant), TIC (Tolk, most diamonds) , and FIC (firey, tall crown ,small tbl, may face small). BIC is brilliant Ideal Cut per Garry Holloway's definition. Crown angle 32 or 32.5 and below with complementary steeper pavilion angle. https://www.diamond-cut.com.au/23_bicfic.htm

I have a "European Cut" (NOT old European cut) that is the flip side of the firey OECs. I don't know what era those were cut in, perhaps '30s? It's as if people got tired of the chunky facets and tall crowns and fire of the OECs and went 180 degrees in the opposite direction into Streamline Moderne. It's a shallow 58% depth stone with a large table and a shallow crown angle. It has narrow mains, splintery. The whole combination gives it a very "bright" appearance, lots of brilliance, very little fire. Waht little fire it has is out toward the girdle area. It has a larger diameter for its weight. Normally 58% depth would be called a pendant stone and you'd expect it to have head obstruction up close. But this one is bright all the time. I bought it as an estate piece in a platinum fishtail ring with tapered baguette sides. It's a solid J color 1.7ct or so and looks every bit of 2ct. I never got a lab cert on it so I don't have any table, crown, pav measurements on it.

BIC CA 32.5 and below, w/ complimentary steeper pav
FIC CA 35.5 and above, w/ complimentary shallower pav
 
What years were these stones cut?
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The machine which made it possible to brute a round diameter on a diamond was invented around 1900, so that can be used as a demarcation point in the dating of these old cut stones.

Old Mine Cut stones (cushion shaped) are typically circa 1840-1890.

Old European Cut stones (round, with small table, high crowns, and large to very large culets) are typically circa 1900-1920.

European Cuts (larger tables, lower crowns, medium to large culets) are typically circa 1920-1940.

Transitional Cuts (transitioning between the european cuts and the modern round brilliant cuts) are typically circa 1940-1950.
 
Have you considered a 60/60 diamond? What size stone are you looking at?

Looks like the range for crown/pav for less fire/more brightness would be 31/41.5 to 34/41. Just depends on how much you
want to give on the fire. "Bright Balanced" does look like a good range to stay in.

If I wanted more brightness I would not go up to 35 on the crown.

Let's see if we can get @Garry H (Cut Nut) to comment on your question.

Around 1.7 x2 for studs. Yes, I’ve considered 60/60 but with what CA and PA?
 
I have a 5 stone band, some cert, some not. The diamonds never go dark, even in the sun. FWIW here are the stats I do have.
IMG_1766.jpegIMG_1765.jpeg
 
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