So I bought a phosphophyllite...

[idola]

...and I want to do something evil. I want to set it if I can.



Here it is. Hasn't arrived yet so this is the vendor pic, but isn't it gorgeous!? (It's from a respectable vendor so returning it will be absolutely no problem if I hate it, don't worry lol)

But anyway, the problem is that I want to set it in a pendant if I can. It's a 3.0-3.5 on the Mohs scale, with perfect cleavage to boot. I have a jeweler who agreed to take a look at it and decide if he feels comfortable with setting it. If I set it, I'm thinking a milgrain bezel. Epoxy was also mentioned as a possibility by one of the jeweler's staff.

What do you guys think? How stupid would setting it be? I'd end up keeping it as a specimen if my local jewelers say 'absolutely no way,' but I wanted everyone's opinions here too.

 

[Arcadian]

Be sure your local jeweler knows what that is....lol I had one when I lived in Massachusetts tell me NEVER AGAIN, when I had him set a sphene. He did a great job though.

 

[idola]

Be sure your local jeweler knows what that is....lol I had one when I lived in Massachusetts tell me NEVER AGAIN, when I had him set a sphene. He did a great job though.

Haha I'll be sure to tell him everything I can about it! Gotta make sure that everyone's on the same page before making a decision about whether they'll set it or not, after all.

 

[Rfisher]

A ring or a pendant?
To wear or to put the set jewelry into a display? I don’t think a bezel will protect the stone in this case - unless it’s a huge deep bezel the stone is set far down into…..
Even if the jeweler decides to attempt setting - you ok with them having no liability?
How can you or can’t you clean a bezel set with epoxy?
Will you be able to see the epoxy?
From face up or from under its skirt too?


If you and your jeweler are aok with all this and on the same page feeling froggy -
Why not?

 

[idola]

A ring or a pendant?
To wear or to put the set jewelry into a display? I don’t think a bezel will protect the stone in this case - unless it’s a huge deep bezel the stone is set far down into…..
Even if the jeweler decides to attempt setting - you ok with them having no liability?
How can you or can’t you clean a bezel set with epoxy?
Will you be able to see the epoxy?
From face up or from under its skirt too?


If you and your jeweler are aok with all this and on the same page feeling froggy -
Why not?

All of these are very good questions, thank you! I absolutely don't have the heart to wear something like this as a ring lol, I'd likely wear it as a special occasions pendant. It wouldn't be their fault if it broke so I definitely wouldn't blame the jeweler. Good questions about the epoxy, I'll have to ask about that.

 

[Rfisher]

Oh- also
If it does break/get damaged in setting

What is the customers part in paying for jewelers labor up to that point?

Something else to think about, clarifying up front expectations on both sides

 

[Bron357]

It’s unusual and very pretty.
When I had my Opal bezel set (higher on Mohos but likewise brittle on the girdle) the jeweller and I agreed on 14k gold to start with but we ended up having to go to 22k to get the malleability without putting too much pressure on the girdle / rim when setting.
So bezel setting mightn’t be the best idea, perhaps prong set on the long sides (not the corners) and only as a pendant.

 

[LD]

I make jewellery and the thought of a bezel (whilst beautiful) has just sent shudders down me. Even experienced setters break stones occasionally. The pressure you have to put on the stone to fold the bezel over the stone is quite fierce and with perfect cleavage if there’s a slight imperfection …… not to mention all those corners!!!!! Would you reconsider the setting?

 

[idola]

I make jewellery and the thought of a bezel (whilst beautiful) has just sent shudders down me. Even experienced setters break stones occasionally. The pressure you have to put on the stone to fold the bezel over the stone is quite fierce and with perfect cleavage if there’s a slight imperfection …… not to mention all those corners!!!!! Would you reconsider the setting?

Yeah absolutely! I'm not experienced with anything from the jeweler's side so I thought that a bezel was safest. I haven't thought too much about the design yet tbh, mostly just about the logistics.

 

[idola]

It’s unusual and very pretty.
When I had my Opal bezel set (higher on Mohos but likewise brittle on the girdle) the jeweller and I agreed on 14k gold to start with but we ended up having to go to 22k to get the malleability without putting too much pressure on the girdle / rim when setting.
So bezel setting mightn’t be the best idea, perhaps prong set on the long sides (not the corners) and only as a pendant.

Do you think higher karat is safer? I think it might look really good in higher karat honestly. Will have to get my hands on the stone to know for sure though!

 

[LD]

Yeah absolutely! I'm not experienced with anything from the jeweler's side so I thought that a bezel was safest. I haven't thought too much about the design yet tbh, mostly just about the logistics.

A bezel certainly offers some protection BUT that has to be balanced against the hardness of the stone and the shape. With your stone everything that could be a challenge is there! I'm a risk taker and have lots of rings with soft stones that people wouldn't normally set BUT I'm also not heavy on my rings. Would you consider a pendant? That would mean less potential bumps and knocks. Also a good jeweller may be able to come up with an innovative design that will protect the stone as much as possible.

 

[idola]

A bezel certainly offers some protection BUT that has to be balanced against the hardness of the stone and the shape. With your stone everything that could be a challenge is there! I'm a risk taker and have lots of rings with soft stones that people wouldn't normally set BUT I'm also not heavy on my rings. Would you consider a pendant? That would mean less potential bumps and knocks. Also a good jeweller may be able to come up with an innovative design that will protect the stone as much as possible.

Yes a pendant is the plan, I actually own more pendants than rings and am very fond of them. I'm definitely hopeful that this jeweler will have some thoughts on how to do it!

 

[idola]

Another question, less related to setting and more to the gem itself, but I have the option for what lab to send it to. Anyone have input on what lab is best for a gem like this? I like how GIA reports look, so I was thinking maybe I'd go with that if there's no reason for another lab instead, so is there?

 

[Nosean]

It is softer than your fingernail. Softer than fluorite.

Even a tweezer can damage the stone.

 

[Cinders]

It is softer than your fingernail. Softer than fluorite.

Even a tweezer can damage the stone.

Wow, softer than a fingernail! That's a really soft stone!

OP, it's a beautiful stone & it will make a lovely pendant.

 

[Nick_G]

Watch out! Phosphophyllite is not only very soft (hardness 3-3.5) but it has perfect cleavage as well, so could easily split if it gets knocked.

Good luck!

 

[Nosean]

Wow, softer than a fingernail! That's a really soft stone!

OP, it's a beautiful stone & it will make a lovely pendant.

It is the holy grail for many collectors - way to soft, brittle and by the way to expensive for jewelry.

I bought a wonderful vivid orange Wulfenite (2,5-3) in a show and the gembox opened in another box - my loupe and tweezer destroyed the stone during the 2h driving home. We have to accept that some of most spectacular gems are too soft. Sphalerite, Anglesit, Cerrusite and other.

 

[idola]

It is the holy grail for many collectors - way to soft, brittle and by the way to expensive for jewelry.

I bought a wonderful vivid orange Wulfenite (2,5-3) in a show and the gembox opened in another box - my loupe and tweezer destroyed the stone during the 2h driving home. We have to accept that some of most spectacular gems are too soft. Sphalerite, Anglesit, Cerrusite and other.

Wow! Crazy that your tweezers destroyed it. I'm sorry to hear about it. I've only been handling my phos with fingers for fear of this lol, so maybe it's best to give up on setting. Still, it's very beautiful so I can't get mad about it.

 

[Nosean]

Wow! Crazy that your tweezers destroyed it. I'm sorry to hear about it. I've only been handling my phos with fingers for fear of this lol, so maybe it's best to give up on setting. Still, it's very beautiful so I can't get mad about it.

It is a fantastic stone…

 

[Cinders]

It is the holy grail for many collectors - way to soft, brittle and by the way to expensive for jewelry.

I bought a wonderful vivid orange Wulfenite (2,5-3) in a show and the gembox opened in another box - my loupe and tweezer destroyed the stone during the 2h driving home. We have to accept that some of most spectacular gems are too soft. Sphalerite, Anglesit, Cerrusite and other.

Wow, how terrible! That must have been an unfortunate surprise upon your arrival.