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Shopping for engagement ring - Emerald Cut

Eland

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jan 11, 2016
Messages
11
Hello,

I am in the process of searching for just the right stone for an engagement ring. My future fiancé is set on an emerald cut. I thought I was fairly well informed about diamonds until I found this site. Reading through almost 500 pages so far has been to say the least enlightening. I have learned a lot more than just the “4 Cs”. Like everyone else though, I am looking for the best value. I am not opposed to an online purchase, but I do like seeing the stones in person. I do have a bit of time before I propose, but what I would like for now is help understanding ASET images and table & depth percentages.

My GF prefers a more rectangular stone so a good L/W ratio is important. She is not overly color sensitive so an excellent cut stone in H/I or maybe even J is a consideration. The setting will most likely be a white gold band with baguettes on the side. The budget is 3K, but can be nudged up a bit if necessary for just the right stone.

One question I do have right away is what vendors or BMs in the Atlanta area are recommended? I will be there next weekend and do plan on visiting Solomon Brothers, but would like to hear other recommendations. I live in Jacksonville and would welcome suggestions for this area as well.

BTW, this is a great site and I just want to say that I think it is absolutely fabulous the way information is exchanged and shared here. It has certainly helped me while I was lurking.. :angel:
 

diamondseeker2006

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
55,630
Is the $3k just for the stone or for the stone and setting? The problem with emerald cuts is that they face up small and if that is for the whole ring, I think it will be a problem. I would go no lower than I color, and you'll see a slight tint in that in an EC.
 

diamondseeker2006

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
55,630
Here is a nice one with the 1.4 ratio with good light return:

http://www.goodoldgold.com/ecommerce/0-8ct-f-vs2-emerald-cut-diamond.html

To stay within F-G-H color and VS1-VS2 clarity (which is pretty necessary with EC's), you are looking at the .80-.90 range pretty much. So the stone I posted is actually a pretty good buy if they confirm that it is eyeclean. I think the F color would be a plus in a stone that size...whiter and brighter.
 

ADN

Shiny_Rock
Trade
Joined
Nov 24, 2015
Messages
311
Hi Eland - glad you're getting something out of this forum - - there's lots of good advice to be found.
*Colour is a personal preference and there is no right/wrong, just keep in mind that you will see a bit more colour in a step cut than you would in a brilliant cut.
*For a rectangle emerald, a ratio of anything 1.3-1.5:1 is ok, but 1.4:1 is considered by many as the ideal length/width ratio.
*You might want to stay within a depth of 58-69%, with a table 58-69% - - this is of course dependant on your/her personal aesthetic preference.
*Keep an eye out for stones that are a bit too deep in the pavilion (short keel can be an indication) - ideally you want the keel length to be roughly the same as the stone length, minus the stone width.
*And watch for stones with girdles that are too thick (adds unnecessary weight without adding anything to the beauty of the stone).
*Emeralds are pretty unforgiving with clarity, and it can be a bit tough to find eye-clean VS2 goods nowadays, but if you hunt around you can probably find something with an inclusion off to the side that can be hidden under a claw, or maybe a soft/wispy colourless inclusion - just try and stay away from black inclusions as they'll really stand out.
*You mentioned baguette side stones – have you had a look at trapezoid baguettes? They can add a nice look as side stones with an emerald.
Good luck with your search
Hope this helps
 

chrono

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 22, 2004
Messages
37,365
I wish there is a cheat sheet for ECs but there are none. Even when all the numbers are perfect on paper, there is a strong possibility that the cut is bad because I've seen too many such ECs.

I think it is very unlikely for any B&M stores that you visit to have an ASET on hand.

Ratio: 1.4 seems very popular but some like them fatter and some like them skinnier.
Colour: ECs show colour very easily so some people will see tint starting at an I, even if it is well cut.
Clarity: Some VS2 might not be eye clean, although that is rare.
Budget: 3K for the diamond only or stone + ring?
 

Eland

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jan 11, 2016
Messages
11
First, let me say thanks for the replies so far.
Diamondseeker - The 3K budget is for the stone and I am willing to push it up a bit for the right stone. I can work on the setting separately though. The stone in the link you provided does seem to be a nice stone. From the research I’ve been doing on this forum, reds and greens on the ASET or desirable, right? This is where I need help understanding the images and the Sarin report. I now realize I failed to be very specific in my OP, so I will list some preferred specs below.

Carat Wt .75 – 1.05 ct wt
Color F – I
Cut Excellent/Ideal - I would like excellent/very good symmetry and polish as well.
Clarity VVS2 – VS1
Fluorescence – Faint/ Medium is ok
L/W ratio 1-4 or close
Depth/Table Percentage – I don’t know what’s best in this category (Thanks ADN for your suggestions)

I have viewed a couple of stones locally, but I have not been completely satisfied. One was a 1.01 ct VVS2 I good cut priced at $4500 with a setting. The color was actually pretty good, but there were quite a few feathers that they at first tried to pass off as pieces of fiber. They were definitely fibers. They were the second B&M to do that to me. Is that common? It was graded by IGL if I recall correctly. The other stone was a .95 ct VS2 F/G. There was no lab report and there was no way it was F/G as even my GF who is not color sensitive noticed the yellow tint. It had an inclusion in the table as well. The price was $3999. I passed.

@ADN - Trapezoid baguettes are actually the side stones I had in mind. Do you have a good reference for where to obtain that type of setting?
 

Mayk

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Feb 12, 2011
Messages
4,567
Color is a personal preference. I own a K IF clarity. There are several PS members with K color. Wolfmoma & Madalise has a new K (large that is stunning). Be sure to see a few in the color range you are considering. There is also an L a Pricescoper just reserved at Jewels by grace that is lovely. Some people prefer higher colors make sure you see Good examples with GIA certificates to be sure the color is accurately graded.
 

diamondseeker2006

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
55,630
Don't waste one bit of time looking at diamonds with anything but GIA reports. That is the only accurate grading for emerald cuts.

If you don't want the one from GOG, then you will need to look at James Allen as they have photos and videos of the stones. I don't have time to look now, but I will try later.

Yes, on the ASETs, you want as much red as possible plus some blue and green. White (if the stone is on a white background) is leakage. You will find some leakage in virtually all emerald cuts. With James Allen, you can narrow it down to three stones and request ASET images, and that is usually all they will provide. The downside there is that they do not have a good setting like you want, and you will have to get that elsewhere.
 

diamondseeker2006

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
55,630
I think a ratio of 1.4 is good for you since she wants a more elongated one, but I personally much prefer closer to 1.3.

Tables: stay at 65 or less. I prefer as close to 60 as possible (or less, which is rare)

Too deep or too thick girdle can result in a stone that faces up smaller in diameter, so pay close attention to diameter measurements.
 

chrono

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 22, 2004
Messages
37,365
For me, it is how the colours are distributed. If there's lots of red but only on the outside or only in the middle, then it creates a stark brightness in that spot only. I like to see a good bit of red, but it has to be well balanced with good placement of green and even some blue (but not too much blue). What I prefer to avoid is a clump of red, blue, or green only.

As for lab reports, GIA only for accurate grading.
 

thbmok

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jul 30, 2010
Messages
891
Chrono|1452630936|3974929 said:
For me, it is how the colours are distributed. If there's lots of red but only on the outside or only in the middle, then it creates a stark brightness in that spot only. I like to see a good bit of red, but it has to be well balanced with good placement of green and even some blue (but not too much blue). What I prefer to avoid is a clump of red, blue, or green only.

As for lab reports, GIA only for accurate grading.
+1

In my search I found that ECs with ASETs with a distributed rainbow of red, green, and blue in the steps look much livelier in person. The steps switch on/off more as the stone is rotated and looks more dimensional.
 

ADN

Shiny_Rock
Trade
Joined
Nov 24, 2015
Messages
311
Eland|1452626893|3974872 said:
@ADN - Trapezoid baguettes are actually the side stones I had in mind. Do you have a good reference for where to obtain that type of setting?
sorry mate - i'm in the trade so i can't tell you where to buy from
 

Lookinagain

Brilliant_Rock
Premium
Joined
May 15, 2014
Messages
1,005
What kind of setting does she want and what is her finger size? I'm sure you know that emerald cuts face up small so it would help to know if she wants something like a halo, as well as the size of her finger.
 

Eland

Rough_Rock
Joined
Jan 11, 2016
Messages
11
Her finger size is 6 1/4 . We both realize the emerald cut faces up small but neither of us like the halo style.
 
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