setting stone, local vs whiteflash?

[jeffd]

I bought an expensive stone (a ruby), would like to get it set in a ring. I live near nyc, am I better off sending to whiteflash or getting it done locally? we don't have a local jeweler...

tia,

 

[farrahlyn]

If you're near NYC, contact IDJewelry about setting it.
https://www.pricescope.com/dealer/id_jewelry

 

[tyty333]

Make sure it is covered by insurance when you have it set (either by insurance you purchase) or insurance that the setter has.

 

[ringo865]

Are you buying the setting from Whiteflash? If so, yes, have to them set it. If not, call ID Jewelry in NYC.

Either way, come back and post hand shots.

 

[MollyMalone]

HI, JEFF
Since you live in the NYC metro area, you sure don't need to take on the additional expense of shipping the ruby via insured, Registered mail to WF. Do you already have a particular "brand" setting in mind; if so, post a link to it, so we can offer other suggestions, in addition to ID Jewelry (IDJ isn't an authorized retailer for them all).

Also, did the ruby come with a report from GIA, AGL, Gubelin, or GRS? If not, I'll encourage you to first take the ruby to AGL for assessment, and the all-important info about treatment, before having the stone set. (GIA, like AGL, is in midtown Manhattan, but AGL is the lab preferred by colored gemstone enthusiasts here on PS.)
http://aglgemlab.com

For an appraiser, I can happily recommend David Wolf of Just Appraisers at 680 5th Avenue, by Rockefeller Center & right around the corner from AGL:
https://justappraisers.com
https://justappraisers.com/about-us/#davidwolf
https://www.yelp.com/biz/just-appraisers-new-york?sort_by=date_desc

 

[WinkHPD]

As a vendor I can not comment on either of the vendors mentioned here.

I am on record as being in favor of having a local jeweler who can help you with regular cleaning and polishing of your ring. I entered to read this thread with the thought of listing the pros and cons of dealing with a good local jeweler versus a well respected Pricescope recognize jeweler. So far I see you being recommended to two different Pricescope recognized jewelers, so that is not the appropriate response.

I will say that you need to do some homework now. Take a good look at ring styles on the Internet to decide what you are wanting. If you find a branded ring that you like, then your choice is easier. Talk to several potential vendors of that brand and use the one you "connect" with.

If you are wanting a custom created treasure, then your task is more difficult. Talk with various vendors to determine if they can do what you want. Basically, you will be auditioning possible vendors to see who can play the part you have visualized in your play. It may be less hassle if the "actor" hired is local, but it may be that you desire the "actor" who lives in another area.

One suggestion if you choose an out of area vendor. Have them send you a shipping label from FedEx that covers shipping and insurance. They can bill you for that and you will not have to wait forever for registered mail to show up. When you are wanting your perfect ring done NOW, the three day to three week delay in registered mail can seem like forever. There are threads here that reveal the angst when one of those three week mailings occur.

You have the main character of your show. Make sure that having the ring created is done with someone you trust and enjoy working with. If the final step is not fun for you and the final product is not what you really wanted, then it will not matter whether the ring was done locally or distant.

Wink

 

[denverappraiser]

Believe it or not, rubies are generally more difficult to set than diamonds. The problem is that they tend to be cut to affect the color rather than the brilliance. There are often severe symmetry issues to deal with. The result is that you want to pick a setter based on their skills more than their address. It regularly requires custom making the setting because the stock settings routinely won't work well for example. The tradeoff is in deciding you'll take a 'good enough' job in exchange for a lower price, possibly quite a bit lower. That's going to depend on you, what you want, and what you have.

 

[MollyMalone]

HI, Jeff

I just read through your posts from several years ago (should have thought to do that before posting last night), so I now think you purchased an unheated ruby -- with an AGL GemBrief (yay!) -- from Andrew Gulij of Gemfix? (I think Andrew is terrific, hope you had an equally positive experience with him; did he cut the ruby?)

There's no photo of the ruby or of the GemBrief card in that older thread in the Colored Stones forum, but the page link to what was then #542 in Gemfix's inventory suggested to at least one PSer that it might very well fit a standard semi-mount... although that's not often the case with colored gems, which are usually deeper than their diamond counterparts. (And not every "brand" is willing to do the kind of remodeling of one of their settings which can be required for a colored gem; IIRC a PSer reported Verragio won't take that on, unless the customer is OK with paying a fairly serious up-charge for what Verragio considers a from-scratch custom order.)

It's hard for me to imagine that this will have to be a long distance project. There are certainly people here in NYC who are "old hands" at setting colored gems (and rubies don't pose the same concerns/risks when being set as do, e.g., spheres). And we don't lack for custom jewelsmiths. Of course, they do not all possess the same portfolio, aesthetics and interests (no one should bother asking Leon Mege to do a tension set!). But Whiteflash doesn't carry anything as unique as, say, McTeigue & McClelland's Flora settings. So it seems likely to me that, once you post pics/links to the setting(s) there that have caught you-your wife's fancy, we can offer you wholly appropriate, metro-NYC possibilities for you to explore in person, chat face-to-face... if the setting vendor isn't willing to make adaptions, if any are needed, for your ruby.

 

[jeffd]

thanks for the replies. I did have a very good experience with Andrew. Fwiw, my preference and Andrew's was a better, smaller stone at about the same price. But my wife, with the help of one her friends, chose the larger stone. In the end, she's the wearer, so of course, I was fine with the choice.I'll post photos of the brief, ruby and my wife's selections from whiteflash.

A friend's uncle had a shop in the NYC daimond district, I spent a day in his shop 35 years ago and the business practices I saw in place that day still send chills down my spine. I realize most jewelers don't engage in those practices but I don't know how to separate the chaff from wheat.

best,

 

[MollyMalone]

* * * A friend's uncle had a shop in the NYC daimond district, I spent a day in his shop 35 years ago and the business practices I saw in place that day still send chills down my spine. I realize most jewelers don't engage in those practices but I don't know how to separate the chaff from wheat.
best,

Not to worry. We won't steer you to a SharksRUs kind of shop!

 

[MollyMalone]

You probably were wondering WTH I was talking about here:

There are certainly people here in NYC who are "old hands" at setting colored gems (and rubies don't pose the same concerns/risks when being set as do, e.g., spheres).

That parenthetical should be rubies don't pose the same concerns/risks when being set as do, e.g., sphenes. I didn't notice until now that the PS AutoSpell "corrected" sphenes to spheres.

 

[Tophat1]

If you are In NJ or eastern PA, I recommend Diana Vincent. Absolutely skilled in setting very big very expensive colored stones and they do gorgeous unique settings as well

https://www.dianavincent.com/

 

[diamondseeker2006]

NYC...for a ruby...Steven Kirsch.

http://stevenkirsch.com/gallery/

 

[jeffd]

here is the brief and a photo...I could take more photos, not sure which angles work best. thanks for all your help, much appreciated!

 

[jeffd]

here is a setting she liked

 

[jeffd]

and here are some settings from whiteflash she liked:
https://www.whiteflash.com/diamond-jewelry/compare.aspx?idnos=521,2311,2137,1669,2456,1573

thanks again for all your suggestions and help!

 

[SimoneDi]

NYC...for a ruby...Steven Kirsch.

http://stevenkirsch.com/gallery/

I second Steven Kirsch, his work is beautiful and he is super easy to work with!

 

[diamondseeker2006]

So basically she wants a pave halo, maybe with a split shank. You already have the ruby so you may as well buy your setting in NYC. Steven Kirsch will make the setting to fit your stone and in her ring size. The stone might fit a premade setting and ID Jewelry is a good place to go for that. But I'd go with Steven for the best quality platinum pave ring.

 

[MollyMalone]

The kinds of settings she's indicated she likes are very simpatico with Steven Kirsch. Although most of the rings depicted in his web site's Gallery are platinum, he will work with 18K yellow gold (and 18K rose gold). I think 18K yellow gold is wonderful with rubies!

For your convenience, here's the link to ILander's thread from the Colored Stones forum re her collaboration with ID Jewelry on a ring that was cast, but finished & set with "PriceScope quality diamonds" by IDJ; the center stone is what AGL called a Brown Pinkish-Orange sapphire, but you'll see it's a far lovelier stone than that suggests!
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/brown-pinkish-orange-not-an-fcd-an-fcs.203513/

Should SK's price quotes be higher than you'd like, I thought you'd appreciate ILander's information about her experience with IDJ & the pics, especially the one of the "pot metal" casting (2nd photo in her post #2) that Adwar supplied before doing the final casting.

 

[jeffd]

thank you all for the advice!