Setting question re peg head shank

[ringo865]

Looking to set my transitional diamond. It is currently housed in a ring that, I believe, is meant for an oval stone.

I have a stuller solstice for another stone and I've been really happy with it. My local jeweler sells stuller, so I was looking on the stuller website to put together a ring with components that I liked.

My question, before I go running off to the jeweler, is whether a shank designed for a peg head can be set with a non-peg setting? The couple settings I liked best were not pegs. I was hoping to see what each setting would look like in the shank before deciding, but I might have to resort to cut/paste photo editing since they might not have components in stock at the shop.

I wanted the shank to be in rose gold and the setting in platinum. That should not be a problem, right?

 

[ringo865]

Here is the shank that I like best along with my two favorite settings.

 

[ringo865]

So now I played around with photo editing. This is what each ring could look like, if it would even be possible. I like them both and am excited to get this diamond reset soon!!

 

[marymm]

Yes, a competent benchman can build an integrated ring setting out of a peg shank and a non-peg head - there should be no problems with that. I love a rose gold/platinum metal combo, and really either of the two heads you are considering look great with the shank you chose. Do you have a trusted local jeweler, or will you need to find someone to build the ring for you?

 

[cinnamonstick]

Pretty!

 

[ringo865]

Marymm, thanks for your input. I do have a local jeweler I have used for repairs and who has checked certs/inscriptions when I've bought consigned or pawn jewelry. I know he can get Stuller stuff so I was looking around on their site. I didn't know I would end up finding components that I liked, and not a ready-made setting. I do not know how much customization is involved in making an integrated setting like this. So I don't know if he could or would do it. I haven't asked, I just dreamed this up this past week.

 

[denverappraiser]

consider having the benchman cut out the center of the bridge and attach to the bottom ring from the sides rather than from below.

 

[unsettled]

i had a local jeweler replace the basket from my setting with a head from stuller. So I would say it's totally possible. This is what mine looks like from the side if it helps.

 

[ringo865]

Denverappraiser, if he cut out the bridge, would the bench drop the basket down a little? Like this pic?

How then to round out the negative space (or whatever you call it) where the bridge was so it would feel fluid and not scrape? Of course that bridge cutting would remedy any problems fitting the basket (which didn't have a measurement) inside the shank opening which was 6 mm (with the bridge in). And is this fairly straightforward or bordering on custom?

Unsettled, thanks for the example. Is it the octet? I think that is a peg head. I had a couple peg heads I liked too, but I really liked the decorative ones so I could keep the pavilion slightly more visible.

 

[unsettled]

I'm OBVIOUSLY an idiot and I haven't had enough sleep lately. Yes. Mine is a peg head now). So I did the exact opposite of what you are trying to accomplish. I went from a basket to a peg head and had to have the base built up. But I bet a skilled person can totally do what you are looking for. I love the mix of rose gold and platinum!

 

[Michael_E]

Denverappraiser, if he cut out the bridge, would the bench drop the basket down a little? Like this pic?

How then to round out the negative space (or whatever you call it) where the bridge was so it would feel fluid and not scrape? Of course that bridge cutting would remedy any problems fitting the basket (which didn't have a measurement) inside the shank opening which was 6 mm (with the bridge in). And is this fairly straightforward or bordering on custom?

The bridge can only be cut out partially since that head has to be attached to the bridge at the very bottom of the head. It would not be nearly strong enough to stay together as you've shown it. You have also pointed out the other problem with this method of assembling a band to a head and that is that the bottom of the head is about 4mm wider than the bridge that it's attached to. If you were to show a view with the band turned 90°you would see the head sticking out from the band about 2mm on each side. If you intend to wear this with another band, they will not be even close to flush. It would be nice if Stuller would make those baskets in a more tapered form, but they don't, so you either have to put up with the head sticking out oddly, or make a head to suit your needs, (which isn't a bad idea until you decide to use platinum, where the fabrication labor costs are about double those of gold alloys).

That octet head is not only a peg head, but is tapered much more than a basket style head and so doesn't stick out nearly as much from the sides.

 

[ringo865]

Yah, I had thought that setting the basket ON the bridge might give a bit of space for a band and have it sit up inside the cathedral instead of being attached at the sides. I had no idea how wide that basket is at the base, or widest point. I just picked 7 mm setting cuz my stone is 7.12mm.

Back to the drawing board? Or would it be more possible with a white gold head?

 

[kmarla]

I'm just curious. It looks to me like the decorative details on those two baskets you like are on all four sides of the basket. If you set either basket in a cathedral setting, no matter if you cut out the bridge or not, the arms of the cathedral will block part of the pretty detail of the basket. I worry that this might ruin part of the look you like so much. I hope you follow what I mean. It's like the shank will end up being attached to the basket smack in the middle of a fleur de lis. I love both of the baskets you've chosen and wish you luck. I'm sure you'll have a beautiful ring in the end!

 

[ringo865]

Thanks kmarla. I do know what you mean. My photoedit skills are purely novice, but you are right. I thought the head would be slightly independent of the shank, I.e., not touching the sides. Maybe more like this pic. However, I do know the space between the cathedral shoulders is 6mm. My stone is 7 mm.

So unless the bridge is cut to expand the gap, it appears I may either need to rethink my basket choice or rethink my shank choice

Any trades know of something with similar design, either ready-made or component that I could get rose/white (doesn't have to be platinum, but I thought with four prongs, it would be sturdier) without going full custom?

 

[MollyMalone]

How about asking your local jeweler to contact Stuller to find out if Stuller will do a customized version for you? Even if that particular shank isn't officially in Stuller's 3C program, that wouldn't mean Stuller will not work with you; they have been expanding their horizons (and customer base) beyond what's in their catalogues by offering increasingly more customization options, even true custom, CAD orders.

 

[Michael_E]

I was just thinking about this idea and using that Fluer-de-Lis setting. Since you can't see the sides of the head anyway, it would be possible to cut the bottom rail of that head and just bend it inwards enough to be flush with the sides of the band. From the front it would look like you've shown, but from the sides the head would have a much greater taper. The prongs look long enough to do this without having the Fluer-de-Lis part hitting the stone. You might still need to build a little pedestal on the bridge if you wanted to wear another ring flush with this one, but that's easy enough to do.

 

[ringo865]

Haven't yet called my jeweler, but thought I better have a plan "b" or maybe even "c" in mind when we talk/meet. I don't hate this prong peg head, but only if I had It put in clockwise 90 degrees, like this.

 

[ringo865]

My jeweler ordered the stock components from Stuller for me to play with and consider before ordering the shank in my size and in Rose gold. The basket is so much more delicate in person than on the computer screen I've been playing on. My super novice photoedit skills aside, I kinda liked the basket turned 90 degrees, what I'm calling diagonal versus what I'm calling square set.

Photo edits are attached as are real life pics of the setting and basket (white good shank) that i saw last night.

Note in the real life pics, the shank is flat on the counter so the jacket bumps out much farther than it will when attached in the center of the shank. This basket tapers a bit toward the bottom and I think will only bump out 1.5 mm on each side of the bridge. That's a gap size I can live with ... After I get a Rose gold band

Eta I had him order the Rose gold shank in my size and we're keeping the basket. Ah, more waiting…

 

[cinnamonstick]

Pretty!
Diagonal is definitely unique which I always can appreciate! I was surprised how much it changes the look at the ring. Side view on the shank is beautiful with all the scroll work.
GL! Its coming along nicely!