Setting question - Is the donut base a must for bigger stones?

[jadesilver]

Hi everyone, I’ll be taking my diamond to be reset tomorrow! For a 2.25ct center, do you think the old setting will have to be cut in the middle and a donut base inserted in between, or can the head just be cut off and a new head cast and attached on top of the band?

Another thing is that there are two knobby twig lumps on the right and left side of the head, and they framed the original stone very nicely, and I want them to be further apart to frame the new, bigger stone. Plus the band needs to go up two sizes I think. So the donut might be a good thing.

I’m mainly worried a jeweler will tell me that a donut is not necessary and they can just attach a new head. But I know most jewelers in my country have very little experience with 2 ct stones so I really wanted to ask you guys about structural issues and the donut.

Also, 4 prong or 6 prong for true security? Probably 6 as a better guarantee from what I’ve read on the forum? I want to have claw prongs that look delicate from the top view but super solid from the side view. There’s no real way I can tell if the jeweler is truly experienced or not or whether his prongs are guaranteed to be tight forever since anything could happen, so I was thinking of going for 6 prongs. I have to say I might be more drawn to 4 prongs though but I’m unsure ahhh. Would appreciate all advice!

Current setting (just want the band part to be reused):




Example of the twiggy knobs on right and left of the stone:

 

[rockysalamander]

To go up two sizes, they will need to cut the shank at the bottom and add a piece of metal, then solder it together. Then, blend the design.

To add a larger head, yes, they absolutely can just put on a larger head on your existing shank (I'd go with 6 prongs personally at a 2 carat size). But, if what you want is for them to shift the location of the nubs, then they need to cut the shank at the top in the middle in order to shift the nubs and resize in one step; they may cut actually cut both top and bottom). If you want a continuous shank, they can simply insert a metal piece(s) and the new head above.

Is this is same jeweler that made the ring? If not, are you sure they can execute the finish to be organic and natural as the present version?

 

[jadesilver]

To go up two sizes, they will need to cut the shank at the bottom and add a piece of metal, then solder it together. Then, blend the design.

To add a larger head, yes, they absolutely can just put on a larger head on your existing shank (I'd go with 6 prongs personally at a 2 carat size). But, if what you want is for them to shift the location of the nubs, then they need to cut the shank at the top in the middle in order to shift the nubs and resize in one step; they may cut actually cut both top and bottom). If you want a continuous shank, they can simply insert a metal piece(s) and the new head above.

Is this is same jeweler that made the ring? If not, are you sure they can execute the finish to be organic and natural as the present version?

Thank you so much @rockysalamander! So it’s ok not to have a donut at the base, it’s not a must for support/to give the head better balance on my finger without swinging too much? Would you go with 6 prongs for security reasons or just because it looks rounder? Yeah, I was thinking they could just cut the shank at the top to do both things. It will be a new jeweler (old jeweler only sets diamonds sold by them). I’ll be looking at their work and only going ahead if I feel completely comfortable!

 

[HappyNewLife]

I have an almost 3ct and I do not have a donut. I am not a setting/durability expert, but in my experience, you don't need a donut for larger diamonds as long as the head/prongs securely hold the diamond

 

[diamondseeker2006]

That design doesn’t have a doughnut now, so I don’t see it being altered to have one. Many jewelers would tell you to remake the whole ring with going up two sizes and changing to a larger diamond. I’d get the original designer of the ring to do this, if possible.

@HappyNewLife Your setting does have a little doughnut! Go back and look at your Show Me the Bling pics. You can see the little circle at the base of the head. Mine has one, too, and that’s why I was puzzled when you said yours didn’t have one. So I looked at your pics!

 

[jadesilver]

That design doesn’t have a doughnut now, so I don’t see it being altered to have one. Many jewelers would tell you to remake the whole ring with going up two sizes and changing to a larger diamond. I’d get the original designer of the ring to do this, if possible.

@HappyNewLife Your setting does have a little doughnut! Go back and look at your Show Me the Bling pics. You can see the little circle at the base of the head. Mine has one, too, and that’s why I was puzzled when you said yours didn’t have one. So I looked at your pics!

Thank you both for your input!

@diamondseeker2006, sorry, I was thinking in terms of HK ring sizing. I’ll be going from a 10 to a 12 or 12.5 (haven’t decided), so that’s an increase of approx. one U.S. size, something like a 5.5 to a 6.5, give or take half a size. The international ring size conversion is hard for me because all the charts are a little different. I won’t be able to get the original designer to do this unfortunately, I’ve asked, and husband is very much hoping I’ll be able to use part of the original ring. I’ll definitely see what the jeweler advises! I’m actually fine with it if the final product looks a little different in the “patched-on” areas, I think it works with the ”organic” nature of the design. It’s already suffered through one resizing at the bottom and the patched area does look a teeny bit different.

I’m still kinda worried that it might be a durability issue if a jeweler just pops a new head on top instead of casting a new ring, but hopefully not. It should stay on without bending, right?!

 

[rockysalamander]

Thank you both for your input!

@diamondseeker2006, I’m still kinda worried that it might be a durability issue if a jeweler just pops a new head on top instead of casting a new ring, but hopefully not. It should stay on without bending, right?![/QUOTE

Soldering is very sturdy. You have a nice wide band and bottom of the head for the jeweler to attach the two together. But, if you are terribly worried, find someone with a laser welder.

 

[jadesilver]

Thank you rocky! Not too worried about it bending but more worried about it causing a prong to loosen and the diamond to fall off. I think it will be fine. Left the old setting and diamond at the jeweler’s and am waiting for an exact quote for the reset (was given a reasonable maximum). Probably gonna go ahead. Thank you for your input on this