setting pear rose cut-- backing

[fel]

I have a beautiful rose cut diamond originally from JBEG that I am going to set (because it did not sell). It is pictured here: http://loupetroop.com/listings/loose-stones-diamond/rose-cut-diamond-pear

My question is about the setting. I would like to set it in a way to simulate a foil background, as I think this diamond looks amazing when backed up (see in pictures when it is in black.) I went to the goldsmith today and requested that she create a high carat organic/hammered gold bezel setting, with a closed bezel backed up with oxidized silver. She suggested a closed bezel with an onyx backing (kind of like an opal doublet) instead. Do you folks have any opinions at which would work better to back up a diamond? Any comments about cleaning or longevity would be of interest.

Thanks!

 

[MMtwo]

I have been curious and watching this thread to learn something new about setting diamonds. I may not understand the correctly, but you wish to put a dark backing behind your diamond? Wouldn't that make it look gray? Why not silver foil or something not dark?

 

[Circe]

I wonder if hematite could give you the best of both worlds ....

 

[Circe]

I would edit to add, but since that's not allowed ... now that I have more time, I'll just respond at more length!

The point of the silver foil backing behind rose cuts (and, for that matter, pastes), was to increase the fire by substituting a highly reflective surface for cut and/or refractivity. I know a few modern jewelers - Stephen Dweck comes to mind - have been experimenting with using different gems as background for rose-cut like stones, with results that range from "meh" to amazingly beautiful.

Before you decide, I'd suggest getting a stock bezel - like, the kind you can get for $3 in silver in calibrated sizes from the likes of Metaliferous - and just ... put it on top of different surfaces. I like the idea of something like hematite, but the way I'm imagining this could be completely different from how it will look!

 

[fel]

Circe, I like the idea of trying to find different stock settings, but how does one do that for a fat pear (almost an oval?)

Here's some pictures of the diamond -- one with it on my hand, and one with it on a black background. They have vastly different lighting, I know. Ignore the glowy spinel -- I already sold it (now I kind of miss it).

As you can see in the picture, putting a black background behind the diamond does not make it look gray.

I don't think I need to add to the fire of the diamond -- I just don't want one to be able to see my skin or the mount though the diamond. Also I think it it has more fire on a black background.

Fel

 

[Circe]

Hmm, interesting! Well, if you're by a place like metaliferous - hobbyist jeweler supply store, basically - I recommend dropping by to drop it in some settings. If not, you can go low-tech by making a "bezel" out of tin foil, or higher-end by asking your jeweler if she could do a basic step-bezel for you to help you decide (which she could then use in the model for the finished piece, in all probability). The stone does look great against a black background!

Honestly, if you want something that's going to not need much maintenance, the idea of a stone set, not flush against the diamond, but a mm or so lower ... almost like a double bezel ... is your best bet, since you can still steam that. If it's just an enclosed bezel with a metal backing flush against the diamond, there can be the concern of tarnish, gunk, etc.

 

[fel]

Thanks Circe. If I end up doing the closed bezel, I will leave a space. Do you think 1 mm is enough room?