Seeking vintage romantic e-ring setting for oval yellow sapp

[santorini]

Hi everyone,

After a month researching engagement rings (these forums are great) I'm ready to get specific advice on the ring I'd like to propose with. I'd appreciate your opinions on my progress so far.

THE CENTRE STONE
I decided on a 2.6ct oval yellow Sri Lankan sapphire. It's unheated, and a medium orange-yellow. It measures 9.1x7.1x4.5mm.

It is a beautiful colour that I hope will bring a smile to her face, and really work with her warm skin tone and individualistic elegant look. I imagine it'd reflect a little of her warm sunny personality.

Her ring size is 4.25, and her fingers long and slim, so I hope the size is on point.

THE BUDGET
My budget is $3,000. Is this realistic enough to do the stone justice?

I'm limited to CAD/cast. In your frank opinion, with the details I'm seeking below (halo with milgrain and twist shank with pave) should I really need to look at the hand cast route and thus increase my budget?

I'll get a semi-matching wedding band at the same time. I'm budgeting $1,000. I don't like the rings to fit flush. I think she'd like a thin yellow gold V shaped band with matching milgrain and very small, spaced out pave about 70% around. Is this budget reasonable in your opinion?

THE FEEL OF THE SETTING
I want a setting that is feminine, and full of vintage glamour and romance. I think this fits her aesthetics.

Milgrain, delicate curved angles, lots of shine, and subtle lacy details seems to say all this to me.

I took a bit of inspiration from what she wears. She likes lace, pencil dresses and feminine frills and is overall a bit vintage boho. She likes earrings - here is a pair she enjoys wearing:

I had to zoom in so unfortunately it's a very average photo. It is rose gold, with a milgrain halo (and four 'prongs' between each little stone), and milgrain around the basket.

I'm thinking of putting the following elements together, and appreciate your opinion:

[1.] Milgrain halo
- I'd like a halo with diamonds on platinum/white gold to form a border around the yellow stone and make it pop.
- I like the lacy look of delicate milgrain borders.
- What I want to avoid: the flying saucer look (this seems to happen when the halo is too flat and not tilted right, or the stone is set too high off the finger without something to blend the halo in with the rest of the ring). But I also don't want the halo to be too tilted that the whole thing looks like a big dome.
- Also want to avoid it looking chunky from the top and profile views (I want it to look beautiful from all angles).

[A - I like the milgrain border, but not sure how this looks on an oval, and I'd also put milgrain all along the sides where the metal is showing like the next three below in 1B]:

[B - I like the tilted look on these, because they look integrated into the ring, but the settings are too high]:

[C - I'm thinking about pave around the sides, but only if it doesn't look chunky. I like the first one a lot, but would it still look nice with no air gap and milgrain added. I like the low-medium height setting on the second]:

[D - Milgrain just on the inside corner in yellow gold:]


[2.]Yellow gold pointy prongs
- Like the picture in 1D above. Although I think platinum is more secure, I think the yellow gold prongs would be less conspicuous. Should I go with a lower content gold like 9k? I don't want it looking too yellow. Or there is an option to dip platinum in yellow gold for the appearance?

[3.]The shanks are yellow gold, and look like ribbons twisted into infinity signs
- I would have diamonds channel set about 70% around. With milgrain edging.
- It is basically a split shank (integrated into the side of the halo), with one 'curve' of the infinity sign like these pictures (rather than all the way around).
- I'm thinking of doing the shanks in 18K or 9K gold to reflect the yellow stone. I think gold works better with her skintone. Does anyone think the mixed metals would be strange?


[4.]Profile filigree
- I don't want to overdo anything here, but I'd like some visual interest.
- I'd be nice to somehow incorporate a stylised 'H' - our family surname - on the underside filigree.

[5.]Matching wedding band
- I don't need the band to sit flush, but I want it in a V shape or curved subtly so it would still look nice worn by itself.


POTENTIAL VENDOR LIST
- I've compiled a list of popular custom jewellers while growing through recent threads. Could someone help me roughly group them into price ranges? Is there any other ones I should consider? I'd like to contact about 3-4 to get their views, I just don't want to waste their time if my budget is unreasonably below anything they can offer me.

Mark at ERD/BrilliantlyEngaged
Leon Mege
Maytal Hannah
Steven Kirsch
SingleStone (I think they are far beyond my budget?)
David Klass
Brian Gavin Diamonds
Victor Canera
IDJ
DiamondsByLauren

 

[Niel]

Re: Seeking vintage romantic e-ring setting for oval yellow

Is there any chance you'd consider a halo without pave in the shank?

I think the most antique/ vintage stylings for sapphire halos seem to be without diamonds in the halo.

Plus, i also say this because you seem very concerned with quality, and halos can be expensive even in a mid range quality level. A plain shank might allow for more budget toward the quality of the pave in the halo itself

Also,are you getting married within the next 6mo? If not, is a wedding ring really a need at the moment? It might be worth while to use your funds towars the setting and save up to buy the wedding band later. Plus, I'm a firm believer that you should try wedding rings on with the setting. For one, your e ring idea is very flowy and the juxtaposition of that with a pointy band may or may not work. Or maybe she is supposed and finds out she wants a completely different style when she ends up trying them on. Who knows. Ive seen it happen regularly


Also, can we see some pics of the sapphire, I love yellow sapphire

 

[santorini]

Re: Seeking vintage romantic e-ring setting for oval yellow

@Niel
- First, thanks for taking the time to read & reply - I was uncertain when posting whether my ramblings would make sense..
- With the pave in the shank - that's negotiable, as I think the halo is very important to get right - but do you think the ring look too naked or plain without some pave? I tried a quick google image search but didn't come up with anything.
- With the wedding band, yes I'll rethink this because it does seem to take the choice of the wedding band away from her and that doesn't seem fair! I thought it'd be convenient to get a wedding ring with the same vendor at once so styles match and only one time shipping. Definitely not going to be married until about 1.5 years, so I was thinking of saving it for then.
- The stone isn't with me yet, but I'll definitely take some photos for opinions once it clears customs... (Australian customs is very average. It apparently arrived as of our Friday, but they didn't know what I was talking about when I called to check.)

 

[Niel]

Re: Seeking vintage romantic e-ring setting for oval yellow

@Niel
- First, thanks for taking the time to read & reply - I was uncertain when posting whether my ramblings would make sense..
- With the pave in the shank - that's negotiable, as I think the halo is very important to get right - but do you think the ring look too naked or plain without some pave? I tried a quick google image search but didn't come up with anything.
- With the wedding band, yes I'll rethink this because it does seem to take the choice of the wedding band away from her and that doesn't seem fair! I thought it'd be convenient to get a wedding ring with the same vendor at once so styles match and only one time shipping. Definitely not going to be married until about 1.5 years, so I was thinking of saving it for then.
- The stone isn't with me yet, but I'll definitely take some photos for opinions once it clears customs... (Australian customs is very average. It apparently arrived as of our Friday, but they didn't know what I was talking about when I called to check.)

I'll post some photos of a plain shank halo, its not odd,very common. Think princess' Diana sapphire.

I'll try and post some photos when I collect a few. I'm thinking based on what you're looking for and your budget I'd be trying to get a quote from brilliantly engaged (edr, formally) once you nail down a setting.

Where did you get the sapphire from?

 

[Niel]

Re: Seeking vintage romantic e-ring setting for oval yellow

Just as some ideas, what do you think of either of these, particularly the halo i n the sapphire ring (as still I'd think a plain shank might be your budgets best friend but this ring is stunning)

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/long-overdue-erd-reset.194337/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/long-overdue-erd-reset.194337/[/URL]

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/victor-canera-oval-sapphire-ring-with-a-vintage-like-halo.215188/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/victor-canera-oval-sapphire-ring-with-a-vintage-like-halo.215188/[/URL]

 

[tyty333]

Re: Seeking vintage romantic e-ring setting for oval yellow

I agree wit Neil...wait on the wedding band. Maybe let her have some say so in the band. Let her know your thoughts but
get her input as well.

I'll post one of my all time favorite oval settings. It belongs to PSer Jennyfire...I dont know if I would classify it as a typical halo but
it is one of the most beautiful rings out there. Silver stone made it which means it is out of budget .


Have you thought about doing anything art deco? Somethink like these...

http://www.pearlmansjewelers.com/jewelry-designers/beverley-k-jewelry/rings/203PP1/ (with all diamond halo)
http://www.pearlmansjewelers.com/jewelry-designers/beverley-k-jewelry/rings/101PP1/

Also check out gabriel and co just for ideas.
https://eshop.gabrielny.com/product/ER6530W44JJ

 

[tyty333]

Re: Seeking vintage romantic e-ring setting for oval yellow

That first picture that Neil posted was what I was thinking...more art deco. Beautiful!

Looking forward to seeing this ring come together. I love non-diamond engagement rings!

 

[santorini]

Re: Seeking vintage romantic e-ring setting for oval yellow

Thanks Niel - I'll take your advice on board and ask for the best possible halo, but a quote on a tiny amount of pave vs a plain band, to see if I can possibly stay within budget.

This is my mock up of the size of the stone vs finger coverage with a thin halo, and I think there's quite a bit of metal showing both sides - can I please get your opinion on whether a plain band would look balanced/proportionate? I certainly want to strike the right balance (not overweigh with details, but not too plain).


I think I may still quite like a split shank with a twist (I like the symbolism of 'two lives merging into one'... and that the top view can look like XOX - i.e. kiss hug kiss.). I'm entertaining the idea of just yellow gold twist without pave - but again, would appreciate opinions on whether this would look strange:

 

[Niel]

Re: Seeking vintage romantic e-ring setting for oval yellow

Thanks Niel - I'll take your advice on board and ask for the best possible halo, but a quote on a tiny amount of pave vs a plain band, to see if I can possibly stay within budget.

This is my mock up of the size of the stone vs finger coverage with a thin halo, and I think there's quite a bit of metal showing both sides - can I please get your opinion on whether a plain band would look balanced/proportionate? I certainly want to strike the right balance (not overweigh with details, but not too plain).


I think I may still quite like a split shank with a twist (I like the symbolism of 'two lives merging into one'... and that the top view can look like XOX - i.e. kiss hug kiss.). I'm entertaining the idea of just yellow gold twist without pave - but again, would appreciate opinions on whether this would look strange:

No, I don't at all think it would be too much metal if you did decide not to put pave in the shank. I don't want to change your mind if you think she really would prefer pave in the shank.... Its just an idea as I know it would help with the budget. Like,that Victor halo I posted,iwonder if he could make a version of that with a plain shank within or close to your budget (I'm including your setting budget too, sense he is very $$$)

As for the twisty shank, I'm on the fence as I don't think they look vintage. They can be lovely if done well, but I personally don't think they're vintage. The sentiment is sweet, though.

 

[santorini]

Re: Seeking vintage romantic e-ring setting for oval yellow

Thanks tyty333:
- That oval ring you posted (Jennyfire's ring) is magnificent. Very regal to my eye (something I'd imagine in a museum). I have to admit - when I see rings like that, I get quite nervous and hope I can get my SO something stylistically she'd love.
- Really appreciate the two Pearlman links - I saw those in my search, but something about the gap between the halo and the stone isn't for me. But an idea I got from the second one is having two slightly larger diamonds in the halo bezel set with migraine edging - that might add a bit more interest and mean the ring can use a plainer shank?

@Niel
- I'll definitely contact Victor to see if that's possible - I saw some examples of his work on these boards, and was very impressed, so if losing the pave could take it within budget and still look good, I'll give it a go. Thank you for the suggestion - I wouldn't have thought of that option.
- And I definitely will think about the twist shank too - might be too different in styles to work. I'll sleep on it!

 

[Niel]

Re: Seeking vintage romantic e-ring setting for oval yellow

Just some more things to ponder, shanks that have some, but not a lot, of pave

 

[tyty333]

Re: Seeking vintage romantic e-ring setting for oval yellow

Here is another oval I found...it's a Mark Broumand ring. Just to give you some another example of a ring that has has
a romantic feel to it (IMO)...



(I dont care for the shank on this setting...just like the halo).

I like the idea of a split shank because I think it will look good with proportion of a longer stone/longer ring (oval shape).

I think there should be some separation where the shank attaches to the gallery/head like the picture you posted for
the milgrain example.

 

[Niel]

Re: Seeking vintage romantic e-ring setting for oval yellow

I was also going to say I totally like your idea of having a bright set halo with millgrain.

 

[Niel]

Re: Seeking vintage romantic e-ring setting for oval yellow

Oh! I just remembered. What do you think of this

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/eleanor-ii-meet-caroline.208645/#p3795664']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/eleanor-ii-meet-caroline.208645/#p3795664[/URL]

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Re: Seeking vintage romantic e-ring setting for oval yellow

In my opinion, in your budget range, the very best antique design ring maker is Caysie van Bebber who works through Love Affair Diamonds. They have some halo designs already that could be adapted to an oval. I think those settings are in the $3000+ range. Here is a sampling of some of their halo rings. Just for fun I added a pic at the bottom of some of their wedding bands.

More rings owned by PS members here:

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/show-us-your-cvb-id-jewelry-the-new-cvb-eye-candy-thread.211825/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/show-us-your-cvb-id-jewelry-the-new-cvb-eye-candy-thread.211825/[/URL]

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Re: Seeking vintage romantic e-ring setting for oval yellow

One thing I forgot to add....do not order the wedding band now. Please let her have input into that. As you can see from the bands I posted, there are many gorgeous choices and she will have preferences.

Also, the first setting above (Casablanca), the second with plain shank (Bella), and the Lisette from the third picture should be in the $3000 range.

(I love Victor's oval sapphire ring above, too, but I think that probably will be over $4k)

 

[lilysweet]

Re: Seeking vintage romantic e-ring setting for oval yellow

Take a look at David Klass's Facebook page. He has posted some lovely halos lately and the last might be close to what you are looking for.

 

[tyty333]

Re: Seeking vintage romantic e-ring setting for oval yellow

I love the 2 tone setting (about third post down) in the CVB thread. 2 tone would be very romantic and the gold would look
really good with the yellow sapphire.

This thread that DS pointed out...
[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/show-us-your-cvb-id-jewelry-the-new-cvb-eye-candy-thread.211825/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/show-us-your-cvb-id-jewelry-the-new-cvb-eye-candy-thread.211825/[/URL]

 

[santorini]

Re: Seeking vintage romantic e-ring setting for oval yellow

Just some more things to ponder, shanks that have some, but not a lot, of pave

I like the 3rd one down (with the arrow shape - not sure how else to describe it) - thanks for digging up a range of examples! I see that these fit better into a vintage design. Do you I think that that type of arrow shape might also work in a split shank? (I like the idea of a split shank with an oval as it gives it more of an appearance of being supported by the band.)

Here is another oval I found...it's a Mark Broumand ring. Just to give you some another example of a ring that has has
a romantic feel to it (IMO)...

Thanks for this pic. The look of a flower petal halo or a scallop halo isn't quite for me (it's very feminine and pretty, but to my eye it appears more fun and youthful, so I can't help but think of it as a dress ring more than an engagement ring). I noticed this in a lot of vintage settings, but I just can't shake that impression unfortunately. (I never thought I'd be so picky about the details until I started researching!) I think the halo I'm looking is probably more a simple smooth edge, so I think I'll ask for that.

In my opinion, in your budget range, the very best antique design ring maker is Caysie van Bebber who works through Love Affair Diamonds. They have some halo designs already that could be adapted to an oval. I think those settings are in the $3000+ range. Here is a sampling of some of their halo rings. Just for fun I added a pic at the bottom of some of their wedding bands.

More rings owned by PS members here:

[URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/show-us-your-cvb-id-jewelry-the-new-cvb-eye-candy-thread.211825/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/show-us-your-cvb-id-jewelry-the-new-cvb-eye-candy-thread.211825/[/URL]

I'm very excited looking at her portfolio - she has absolutely amazing attention to detail. I hope she can help me with a concept that could keep me under budget. Is there any difference between contacting her directly, or going through Love Affair Diamonds?

This one just blew me away (tyty333 pointed it out in the CVB thread). The halo is more intricate than what I'm looking for, but it's certainly the category I'm looking for.

 

[tyty333]

Re: Seeking vintage romantic e-ring setting for oval yellow

I would probably contact her directly and she'll let you know if she wants you to go through LAD for customer service.

That is a gorgeous setting, regal yet romantic in an old world sense. I think it will look even nicer in an oval shape.

Some things to think about...if I were doing that setting I would change the gallery (bottom side of the ring). I would simplify it.
The way it is now makes it look like it sets up pretty high. I would use a regular rounded shank (intertwining metal) then have
the metal separate and go up and support the halo part of the ring. Simplifying the gallery should hopefully reduce cost. I'm still
not sure if this setting could be done for $3k but maybe she can make some changes that will work for you that will bring it
down? Fingers crossed.

I* also wonder what it would look like with less milgrain on top. Just curious what that might look like.

Here is a simpler CVB gallery that I think is pretty...

 

[Niel]

Re: Seeking vintage romantic e-ring setting for oval yellow

I believe now all her things are purchased through LAD. However, I'd contact her and tell her some general ideas you're after and your budget and she can draw you up something unique to you.

I know you want prongs, I'd think about having 6 prongs, I think that's really classy and vintage.

 

[Niel]

Re: Seeking vintage romantic e-ring setting for oval yellow

Found a few more ideas. I looove the first one.

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Re: Seeking vintage romantic e-ring setting for oval yellow

Caysie is an excellent designer with an excellent bench and you do need to make first contact through Erica at Love Affair Diamonds. Tell her your budget and she will help you stay close to it. I don't know of anyone better for the style ring you want. She really has an eye for antique style rings!

I am working with her right now to reset the diamond in my avatar picture.

 

[Niel]

Re: Seeking vintage romantic e-ring setting for oval yellow

One more

 

[santorini]

Re: Seeking vintage romantic e-ring setting for oval yellow

So I’ve gotten a quote from LAD/CVB with no pave in the band and it’s a nugget over budget with shipping (I admit, this makes my OCD self a bit anxious even though I set a totally artificial budget ). I was considering that if I came in under budget, I'd get her one of those Mrs Boxes that everyone seems to love, but now I hope the ring will come in a recent box to propose with (fingers crossed).

As far as payment terms, there’s a 50% deposit, that is only partially refundable after the CAD stage (for me, this works out roughly half the deposit is non-refundable). And after casting, the deposit is not refundable. This seems fair in commercial terms, but it makes me want to think on it a bit more (I've given myself until Friday to make a call, so I don't fall into a case of analysis paralysis...).

Wanting to reach out again, and see if you have any thoughts about what other questions I should ask?

For example, 5 minutes ago I thought about what happens when we need to get her ring repaired - I'll see if I can politely phrase that (as I do not mean for it to suggest that I question the workmanship - I just read that with the halo, the little stones can fall out and prong settings need tightening every so often). I have no idea how much that would cost to properly replace/repair in Australia.

Also, I wonder with custom settings, in your experiences, is there ever a refund option (obviously not of the deposit based on Erica's information to me, but of the balance)? (I don't know if this is typical at all or not, and I want to check with you all before I potentially offend with this question.) If not, then in the absolute worst case scenario (if I plan for the worst but hoping for the best) is there no recourse if there's something wrong with the quality?

 

[drk14]

Re: Seeking vintage romantic e-ring setting for oval yellow

but now I hope the ring will come in a recent box to propose with (fingers crossed).

I don't know if CvB has changed her packaging since joining up with LAD, but pre-LAD, this is a typical ring box that she would ship your finished ring in:

These boxes are handmade for CvB by Michael Benton of MWB Studios.

it makes me want to think on it a bit more (I've given myself until Friday to make a call, so I don't fall into a case of analysis paralysis...).

If you have not read it already, you may find my CvB review helpful, as it goes into some detail about my experience, including some of the ups and downs. My advice to anybody embarking on a custom design project (with any vendor) is to prepare yourself mentally for the possibility of unexpected issues (e.g., unforeseen delays, design concepts that have to be altered for one reason or other, etc.), and to understand that the relationship between you and the vendor ultimately needs to be built on mutual trust.

I just read that with the halo, the little stones can fall out

That can happen with melee that is not high quality, but it should not be an issue with halos of the quality produced by CvB's bench.

If not, then in the absolute worst case scenario (if I plan for the worst but hoping for the best) is there no recourse if there's something wrong with the quality?

See above comment about trust. To expand, the vendors who are respected here on PS want their clients to be happy. While it is extremely unlikely that you will be unhappy with the quality of the product, if there is any defect that can clearly be attributed to quality or workmanship issues, well regarded vendors will fix the problem, typically at no cost to you. If there is an issue that is not so clear cut (e.g., you changed your mind about what you want the ring to look like after you already approved a design), then if you are reasonable, then vendor will also be reasonable in working with you to fix the problem in some way. (This is not from personal experience by the way, just my impression from reading PS threads in which a customer has experienced some hiccup with a vendor, and the issue is ultimately resolved.)

Good luck, and keep us posted on your journey!

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Re: Seeking vintage romantic e-ring setting for oval yellow

I don't think there is anything unusual about those policies for custom made rings. I might worry a lot with an unknown jeweler such as when people come on here wanting their local jeweler to make something and they have no idea of their capabilities. There are very few ring makers that I'd use for custom, and LAD/CVB are among them...and definitely one of the best for antique style.