Sapphire Engagement Ring from Etsy - experiences/advice

[elderwynd]

Hello everyone,

I discovered this forum a couple days ago, and have been pouring through it for some of the excellent advice. I'm shopping for an engagement ring, and am strongly leaning towards a sapphire, but I'm still trying to learn what to look for. My girlfriend has exactly zero preference, except that "it not be a big rock, or even a diamond, and not too expensive," primarily because we are currently paying off her $200k med school loans. She owns exactly one ring, size 7, but I've never seen her wear it.

I've read through information on buying a sapphire, have looked at Brian Gavin's settings, contacted Gene Flanigan to ask if he had any blue sapphires he hasn't yet cut, and been to some local jewelers in LA to get pricing info and see them in person. I've decided I want it to be either royal or cornflower blue (to match my eyes, which my girlfriend is attracted to), at most 6mm diameter, round or oval, and either solitare or three-stone setting with smaller diamonds off to either side.

As I look, I keep finding myself attracted to this one ring on Etsy (see attached picture). (I wasn't sure if the forum frowns on direct linking to product pages, which is why I just pulled the picture to show). 14k white gold, 5mm round cut sapphire, side diamonds are round, VS1-2, D-F color, 0.23 cttw. $820, which seems like a steal. No information on whether/how the sapphire is treated, no detailed shot of the stones.

My question for you all: if we assume it's a darker stone, is this a fair price for the design? I plan on asking the seller for closer shots of the stone, and in different lighting. Is there anything else I should ask?

Thanks!
Ryan

 

[chrono]

I did a quick breakdown of the cost using the PS diamond search with your specifications:
Diamonds = $120 each = $240 total, let's say $250 to make the numbers even
14K WG setting = $500, perhaps?

This makes me wonder about the quality of the sapphire. Is it junky? It doesn't look pretty in the picture and there's something going on within the stone. I wonder if it is windowed and the wavy lines I'm seeing internally is the metal showing through the sapphire. And the accent stones are D-F? Can that be proven? (side view on a sheet of paper to check for colour, at the very least).

Overall, it's a pretty and traditional 3 stone design. It's just the details I would want to know more about.

 

[SB621]

I think the design is pretty but the sapphire looks crappy to me. I agree with Chrono that somethings seems really off with it. Also you mentioned you want cornflower blue and while color is different to each person this is not cornflower blue to me at all. It is dark and looks like it has dark spots in areas plus a window that Chrono I believe already pointed out.

What is your budget for a sapphire. Dana at Mastercutgems has had some pretty sapphires lately. I would also check with jewels by erica grace to see if they have anything (if you don't mind 2nd hand). I also think that New York Estate Jewelers has several sapphires rings online in a similar style as this one.

 

[LD]

I agree with the above but think the strange lines in the photo may be caused by the lighting because this is going to be a very dark stone in real life (not royal or cornflower blue - more dark inky blue).

IF and I mean IF the diamonds can be verified as D-F, VS2 then the setting with the diamonds alone is worth the money and you could think about swapping out the centre stone at a later date. However, you must find out who has graded the stones and make the purchase (if you go ahead) dependent on them being within a grade or two of the stated stats. To be honest, even if they were F colour and a SI1, the setting is probably worth it!

 

[elderwynd]

These are excellent replies, thank you!

Chrono, thank you for the cost breakdown, I'll use that tool for future rings if I find them.
Sarahbear, thank you for the references - we don't mind secondhand at all, but I didn't know how to find a reputable second-hand source. I agree that the stone is likely very dark - cornflower blue (which I think of as a light blue) or royal blue would be good, but not inky/dark. My budget is about 1200 total.
LD, I actually managed to find a 6-prong solitare 14k white gold setting at a local jeweler for $295 yesterday. The saleslady said "wow, I think that's old gold prices..." They had a very pretty cornflower blue sapphire as well, 1.53ct, but it was $1450. I may try to find a stone(s) individually and then bring it there to be mounted.

There is one more caveat - because my girlfriend works in a hospital, there's a real concern that a large stone will either tear a glove or get lost when peeling the glove off. That's why I'm more attracted to the three-stone than solitare.

Thanks everyone! I'll keep looking around.

 

[imagardener2]

I have no opinions to add being new at gemstones. Just wanted to say how co-incidental about matching your eye color to the stone because I JUST had this idea myself and thought I was hugely original...haha. I was going to pull out our Pantone swatch book (we do graphic design) and find the # for blue-gray closest to my DH's eyes. It should only take me a couple of years to find a gem to match.

I did think it is a romantic idea.

 

[velouriaL]

Since she will be wearing gloves, you might consider a bezel setting. They tend to be low and smooth. Just do a search for "bezel engagement ring" on etsy and you'll see a ton of inspiration.

The look can be modern and sleek
http://www.etsy.com/listing/107013155/ring-size-6-solitaire-engagement-ring
http://www.etsy.com/listing/82069393/14k-white-gold-blue-white-diamond

organic and artisinal:
http://www.etsy.com/listing/105981024/ooak-natural-alexandrite-handmade
http://www.etsy.com/listing/108821463/emerald-ring-diamond-ring-emerald-and

or even antique:
http://www.etsy.com/listing/66032820/antique-victorian-18k-solid-yellow-gold
http://www.etsy.com/listing/89765166/1920s-engagement-ring-platinum-and

(NOTE: I am linking to things for design inspiration ONLY and am NOT endorsing these particular rings as I didn't really look at any of them beyond design! When you know what you want, you can look for it in a good quality/good deal.)

 

[velouriaL]

If you like blue-gray to match her eyes, you might want to look at Montana sapphires. I personally prefer a blue-gray-green Montana to one the same color from another part of the world because that color is characeteristic of them and is (to me) less of a "bug" and more of a "feauture." I have never bought anything from gemfix and their online colors are supposedly hit or miss, but you could take a trip down to GemFix in San Diego and see their Montanas. If you do, can I come??? [URL='/user#']/user#[/URL]

Since you budget is practical, you might want to think about "outside the box" attributes that won't necessarily add a lot of extra $$ to the ring but might make it more "special." For example, Uli from OsirisGems.com cuts really beautiful unusual stones and has been known to sell blue/gray sapphires at reasonable prices (example: http://shar.es/u9pxL). It's not to everyone's taste, but it's worthing thinking outside the round, prong-set solitaire.

EDITED TO ADD: Whoops, I got the OP confused with another poster. It's YOUR eyes not HERS. And your eyes are more corn-flower than blue-gray... lucky you/her!

 

[elderwynd]

Thanks Velouria! Actually, it's funny - my eyes are mainly a simple blue color (I just like the royal blue stones), but depending on what I wear they can look either green or occasionally grey. So the Montana Sapphires are a good lead!

I'll definitely look into a bezel setting as well. Do stones lose sparkle if set in a bezel vs prong setting? It seems like the additional metal surrounding would block some of the light. Small price to pay, though, for increased security.

 

[velouriaL]

Sparkle is more about the cut... and of course, unlike diamonds, for colored gems, it's more about color than sparkle. I might be leery of putting a dark colored stone in a bezel as it might darken it a bit more. The effect-- for the better-- can be found with lighter stones. You can also do open bezel (https://www.pricescope.com/idealbb/files/CDSRingEP6.JPG) and/or half/partial bezel (http://www.clay-pot.com/images/P/Sholdt-Design--Half-Beze-2629-2160P.jpg).


A great thread - [URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/request-please-post-your-bezels.32255/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/request-please-post-your-bezels.32255/[/URL]

 

[chrono]

A well set stone (set low with prongs that fit well) should not snag. I've worn some decent sized rings that are well made under gloves comfortably, so a smaller prong set ring is probably all right under medical gloves. In general, bezel settings, especially those with open pavilions cost more than a simple prong set setting.

 

[velouriaL]

Chrono is of course correct.

Here's a recent example of someone who really made it work - [URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/periwinkle-blue-montana-sapphire-engagement-ring.170046/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/periwinkle-blue-montana-sapphire-engagement-ring.170046/[/URL]

 

[chloeishere]

Thanks to Velouria for linking to my e-ring thread. *blush*

I actually have really been there, in terms of engagement rings and etsy. You can see my ring and setting in the thread velouria linked, but though I would definitely recommend Elizabeth from esdesign (and her prices are very, very reasonable), I know the organic/ nature inspired setting are definitely not for everyone.

I do have a few etsy vendors that I have never purchased from and therefore do not have direct experience from, that left a favorable impression from communication-- so I'll mention a few if it'll help you get an idea of setting to look at. (I may have purchased from if they had what I needed at the time. I have a nickel allergy and can't wear conventional white gold, and etsy artisans that work with palladium, that have good quality, will work with a customer's stone, and are very affordable are in very short supply. If you don't need a nickel-free white metal that isn't sterling, you'll have much less trouble finding a setting/ ring).

In terms of a stone and etsy, you could check with GemCutters. http://www.etsy.com/shop/GemCutters?ref=seller_info_count I contacted them during my search and they were very nice (and great prices! Someone on pricescope has a fantastic sapphire from them), but they didn't have any rough or cut stones that were the light-toned color I wanted. I think they were affiliated with another store that sold settings for a while (I think it may have been his sister?), so they might be willing to cut you a deal on the setting if you do find a sapphire you like there. I really liked this sapphire from them: http://www.etsy.com/listing/73687558/sapphire-round-brilliant-cut-484mm-55, but I have slightly odd taste, and I love the bit of color-zoning with the green on the sides. (It may be a picture artifact-- I noticed green flashes in another sapphire that they described as violet-blue). It was smaller than I wanted, though.

Another person I was really impressed with based on communication was J. Anish. http://www.etsy.com/shop/JanishJewels Very prompt and professional communication, and I think her bezel work is absolutely incredible (her prices are also very low, IMO, especially for the apparent quality of the work). She didn't work in palladium, but I think she may be willing to work in white gold. This is not what you are really looking for, but I thought it was worth pointing out: http://www.etsy.com/listing/85263928/sale-star-blue-sapphire-ring-18k-gold, and three stone (I bet she'd work with cut diamonds for the side stones if that's what you wanted-- and she will work with your stone): http://www.etsy.com/listing/101631263/three-stone-white-topaz-ring-in-recycled

No direct experience with them, but of course there's always http://www.etsy.com/shop/HeartofWaterJewels?ref=ss_profile. They will source a stone for you or set one you have, but are located in Thailand means a longer wait. Prices are decent, though, and the rings are loooovely.

Bezels absolutely will not stop a stone from sparkling but if the stone is dark and/ or poorly cut, a bezel could further reduce the brightness (the stone probably wouldn't start out very bright, though). That's one reason I went with a light stone, but I don't feel that the bezel darkened my stone at all. However, it's very well cut and not dark-- I don't think any setting could have dampened Gene's excellent cutting.

 

[elderwynd]

Thank you everyone! I'll take some time to look through the information posted here. The Mastercutgems are very impressive, and there are a couple that are well within my budget! It looks like I missed the Montana Sapphires on sale there, but the darker blue ones are wonderful, and I'll keep looking around as well.

I think I may stay with a low-sitting solitare or three-stone setting - the bezel settings are nice, but ultimately none have really struck me as much as the prong settings.

Again, thank you all for being so helpful! You really make this a much easier process for someone just learning the ropes.

 

[elderwynd]

Update!

OK, after much looking, I settled in on wanting a blue-green sapphire, which likely meant a Montana Sapphire. Which it seems everyone else also wants. :/

I also found I really liked the cuts (at least online) of Mastercutgems' work. So, I stalked their "New" gems page daily, until I found this one:



Considering how quickly some of the other Montana Sapphires sold on his site, I jumped on this one and bought it just now. 1.55 carat, 6.6mm, $700. I love that it's blue in some light, green in others. I'm a little concerned that it's not cut by Dana Reynolds, but rather Paul Burton, but it looks quite nice online and I'm trusting his judgment at the moment.

While I wait for it to arrive: once I get it, what should I do with it? Look at it outside and indoors, look at it in a microscope (at my work)? Look for extinction, zoning. Anything else I should know? I will have 10 days in which I may return it incase it looks quite different from what I expected, and while I don't expect any problems based on other's experiences with Mastercutgems, I could use any insight others have on what I should look out for.

Thanks!

 

[chrono]

Don't worry about the lapidary; Paul does good work and the faceting looks great. My primary concern at this point is the grayness of colour (apparent in the profile view and if you know what to look for, face up as well) and to make note of its colour shifts (indoors fluorescent, halogen, incandescent, outdoors shade and sunny). Sort of "live" with the stone to see if the personality fits what you want. Observe if it darkens, where and by how much, any unevenness of colour and etc.

 

[colorluvr]

Best of luck on your new stone, and I hope it turns out to be the perfect stone for you.

I have a denin blue (in some lighting) Montana sapphire that was cut by Dan Stair that is similar in size to the one you just purchased (7mm). It was not an expensive stone (it has some inclusions visible in some lighting) and the blue can have some gray in some lighting (which is why I call it denim blue) but I really love the personality of the Montanas, as they can look very different in different lighting, which I suspect will be the case with this stone.

I think the important thing is to check it in as many different lighting conditions as you can (like you mentioned) and see if you like the way it shifts.

My Montana is a "fun ring" for me and so I wear it often to places where I might not feel comfortable wearing a more expensive ring. I wore it to a baseball game and with the stadium lighting, it turned one of the most gorgeous color of blue (no gray) that I have seen in a sapphire. If it was that color all of the time, it would probably have been three times as expensive.

 

[movie zombie]

i like it....it will have personality and be different in in differnt light....not a bad thing, imo, but a good thing.

 

[elderwynd]

Thanks Chrono, Colorluv and moviezomebie!

I'll pay close attention to how gray the color looks in different lighting, and how vivid the coloring is. I think I'll keep a white business card with me, so I can have a good reference for the color of the light as well.

 

[gemseeker2012]

I think its beautiful! I also love Montana sapphires and are looking for the perfect one for an engagement ring!

I had a chance to see a stone cut by Paul Burton and the cut was magnificent, I wouldn't worry about that in the least!

Good luck and be sure to post some photos when it arrives!

 

[colorluvr]

I'm attaching two photos of my stone to show how it can differ in different lighting, and how I suspect your stone might also shift. The second photo is when it shows no gray (to my eye) and looks closest to how it looked under the stadium lighting (although this photo doesn't quite capture the color) and the other when it's looking "denim".

Yours doesn't appear to have the gray that this one does however.

 

[jstarfireb]

I love the color of that sapphire! For what it's worth, I wear a low prong-set engagement ring under my gloves every day (except when I take my rings off for sterile procedures), and it doesn't snag. As others have pointed out, you're fine if it's set low and well.

 

[minousbijoux]

I saw that stone show up this morning, and was hoping it was one of our PSers who've been wanting a Montana - I'm happy to hear that it went to you.

Don't worry about the cutting if Paul cut it; I get the impression from Dana that Paul has been very influential to Dana in his cutting and collecting career. Paul is older now and is selling off his collection. The cutting looks great and I love the high crown. Look at it in various lighting situations. It would be fun to look at it under your microscope, but just for interest and curiosity's sake - under a microscope, you are likely to see a lot, and shouldn't be put off. A better test will be to look at it closely in different lighting, especially the lighting that it will be seen in most often (for most of us unlucky types, that is fluorescent). I check for two things when I get a new stone: 1) overall color and sparkle in different lighting; and 2) close naked eye inspection (I loupe it as well, but more for curiosity and to make sure there isn't anything egregious I'm overlooking). Sometimes, in certain lighting, close scrutiny shows some inclusions, at certain angles, that you just can't live with. Good luck.

 

[imagardener2]

elderwynd

that Montana saph is so pretty. I hope it looks great in person to you and not too dark. Grayed blue-green is my favorite color as long as it's sparkling and not dark or dull. I'm looking at Mont saphs also and it sounds like a lot of other people are too. They have a lot of "character" don't they?

 

[elderwynd]

All the comments re: Paul Burton's cutting has made me feel much better about the stone!

colorluvr: your stone looks very pretty! I hope mine can achieve that same blue on occasion. I'll be sure to post photos once I receive it.

jstarfireb: Thanks for your insight - I just wrote to Brian Gavin to see how much they charge to set a stone, and I'll be sure to ask how low it can be set.

I'm excited!

 

[Starzin]

Well done in snaffling that Montana and I hope that it meets your expectations

 

[minousbijoux]

Looking at the stone again, and knowing that Dana takes his photos outside, do double check that it doesn't go dark in inside, incandescent light. I have no experience with Montanas, but in looking at the photo again, I realize the stone is on the darker side, and it presumably is in midday outdoor light.

I am keeping my fingers so totally crossed for you.

 

[elderwynd]

Update! I received the stone from Dana last week. It was an absolutely impeccable cut, I was really impressed. Unfortunately, the color wasn't what I was hoping for in florescent lighting - too much grey. Which, we knew was a possibility from the photos. And, I think 1.55 carats is on the large end of what I want - a smaller stone might be better for this ring. So, I had to send it back, and will continue to look.

I may attempt a trip down to San Diego tomorrow or next week, but in the mean time: are there any cutters/jewelers in the LA area that people here recommend? I think this has taught me I really want/need to see the stone in person.

 

[chrono]

I am sorry it did not work out for you. Gemfix is in San Diego but it's best to call or email to set up an appointment first.
http://www.gemfix.com/

 

[elderwynd]

Stone purchased!

Biggest lesson for anyone else purchasing a sapphire: it will change color wildly, depending on the light that hits it.
Follow-up lesson: Sapphires are really difficult to photograph with any kind of color accuracy.

I drove down to San DIego and took a look at Andrew Gulij's (Gemfix) stones. SUPER nice guy, extremely helpful. I'd recommend him and his wife without hesitation. He helped/encouraged me to look at the stones in the halogen light, daylight through the window, indirect daylight, incandescent, fluorescent, and even "the ugly lights in the hallway." I looked through probably 20 stones with him, and he was very patient. I ended up purchasing a 0.78ct Sri Lanka sapphire, but also liked another 2ct Thai sapphire. Andrew said I could always just purchase both and return whichever one I decide not to use, but I thought that wasn't necessary - I had seen the 0.78 in so many lights, and it was a good size, so I just got that one and left back for LA.

I definitely should have bought multiple there. I walked around with the 0.78ct for a few days, and the stone turned out to be far more violet than I had seen in San Diego, just due to the lighting in our apartment/work. It's a gorgeous stone - perfect for someone looking for blue-violet - but it wasn't what I was looking for. I called Andrew and ordered the Thai sapphire, along with 2 Montana sapphires that I had looked at.

You can see all 4 stones below in (somewhat blurry) hand shots, both under compact fluorescent and incandescent lighting. The two on the left are the Montanas, followed by the Thai and finally the Sri Lanka sapphire. The two individual shots are of the Thai stone only.



The Thai had the best overall color - changing from sky-blue to navy-blue, occasionally green and even occasionally almost colorless! I couldn't believe how dramatic the changes were just shifting the light around. I really wish the photos better captured the range of color - the lowest resolution one is the best depiction of what it does when the blue sky is behind you. There's a bit of a window, but it's hard to notice in a hand shot - hopefully the setting will diminish it.

I just dropped off the Thai sapphire at a jeweler to get it set - they had a 14K white gold six-prong solitaire for $295 which will fit the stone perfectly. I should have it in a few days, and I'll post more pictures (hopefully better quality) when I can!