Sapphire 6.5ct Cornflower Blue No Heat - Seeking Advice

[Er215]

Hello,

I just received a beautiful 6.5 ct. asscher cut corn flower blue no heat sapphire that I ordered on Gem Rock Auction. I took to a reputable local jeweler and was initially pretty excited when he checked out the stone said it was a beautiful stone without issue. My optimism melted away once I started discussing mounting in a men's setting. I was told that the stone really isn't ideal dimensions for a men's ring because of the depth. The stones dimensions are 9.2mm x 9.0mm x8.1mm. I was thinking I got a pretty good deal, but now I'm thinking I will need to return this stone since the dimensions may be too deep for a men's setting. There is sapphire ring that I love that has a 10.5 carat sapphire with the sapphire's dimensions being 12.7mm x 10.7mm x 7.49mm. The stone I have would be .52mm more depth than this ring. Should I return this stone and look for a stone with less depth? I would say I have average size hands for a man with a ring size of 9. Was initially thinking to make a pinky ring, but now I'm thinking the jeweler could be right that the depth may make this ring sit too tall for any finger. I would love to hear any opinions. (Attaching photos of the sapphire I got as well as the sapphire ring online that sits tall but looks awesome to me). Thanks!

 

[dk168]

The stone looks nice to me based on the photo alone.

Well-cut Sapphires are cut quite deep to bring out the colour as I have seen in other stones. Therefore, its depth did not surprise me given its size.

Shallower stones may not be cut as well as this stone with the risk of a window.

How about setting the stone using plasticine and see if it is too tall for the middle finger?

Personally, I believe it would make a gorgeous ring in a simple Gypsy rub-over setting for a gent as a ring for the middle finger.

DK

 

[Bron357]

It’s a lovely sapphire.
I agree with @dk168 that a Gypsy style setting fully bezel set will look fabulous. Yes, it will be a statement piece and require quite a bit of gold but wow.
Any good colour sapphire at around 9mm x 9mm will also have some depth to it so you might search for a while to find another with slightly less depth.

 

[LilAlex]

Is it me or didn't you just say on the other thread that this was a 14-ct stone? Maybe it's me.

It's the pavilion depth that matters for flush-mount or bezel settings. I think 8 mm is pushing it but potentially doable -- but not for a pinkie ring. For one large stone, I sized it for a middle finger (10.5 or something). You also can increase the mass of the ring so there is less of a volcano-effect when viewed from the side like your inspo ring. It will also tend to flop since you'd be looking at a 20 - 30 gm ring, imo, unless its all concave on the inside.

Lang has (had?) an incredible one with a step-cut emerald, IIRC. Just reverse-sort "all" by price and you'll find it pretty quick.

I have made a number of rings like the style you are proposing.

 

[Autumn in New England]

Is it me or didn't you just say on the other thread that this was a 14-ct stone? Maybe it's me.

I think he previously said he wanted to set it in "14ct" gold (they use "ct" instead of "k" across the pond to denote gold karatage). It can be confusing to us 'Mericans!

It really looks to be a lovely sapphire (though it's not an asscher... more like a custom square cushion). It's a fabulous cut, whatever it is. Hmm... about the depth. Normally, I wouldn't flinch at 8mm (and I have rather petite female hands). But because you're thinking of setting this in a pinky ring, that gives me pause. I might take the stone to a different jeweler and get his/her opinion. Remember though, local jewelers tend to resent online gem purchases. They want you to buy from them. Not saying that's happening here, but...

I see zero problem with the depth for a ring or middle finger piece.

 

[Starstruck8]

It's hard to find a good-looking sapphire. If you have found one you like, don't give up on it too easily. 8mm (probably 6.5-7mm to the girdle?) is deep but not impossible. But I don't recommend it for a pinky ring.

This ring shows an approach. The stone (yellow beryl) is not quite as deep as yours. I don't have the dimensions, but the setting is about 7mm to the top of the bezel. The key point is that the 2-tone construction and the cutout pattern reduce the 'wall of metal' effect, so it doesn't look so high. The white metal inserts on the shoulders also reduce the 'volcano' effect. Neither the height nor the bulk of this ring worry me when wearing it.

Note also, when you look at a ring straight on, you don't notice the height!

 

[Autumn in New England]

It's hard to find a good-looking sapphire. If you have found one you like, don't give up on it too easily. 8mm (probably 6.5-7mm to the girdle?) is deep but not impossible. But I don't recommend it for a pinky ring.

This ring shows an approach. The stone (yellow beryl) is not quite as deep as yours. I don't have the dimensions, but the setting is about 7mm to the top of the bezel. The key point is that the 2-tone construction and the cutout pattern reduce the 'wall of metal' effect, so it doesn't look so high. The white metal inserts on the shoulders also reduce the 'volcano' effect. Neither the height nor the bulk of this ring worry me when wearing it.

Note also, when you look at a ring straight on, you don't notice the height!

I love this ring, Star.

 

[Er215]

Is it me or didn't you just say on the other thread that this was a 14-ct stone? Maybe it's me.

It's the pavilion depth that matters for flush-mount or bezel settings. I think 8 mm is pushing it but potentially doable -- but not for a pinkie ring. For one large stone, I sized it for a middle finger (10.5 or something). You also can increase the mass of the ring so there is less of a volcano-effect when viewed from the side like your inspo ring. It will also tend to flop since you'd be looking at a 20 - 30 gm ring, imo, unless its all concave on the inside.

Lang has (had?) an incredible one with a step-cut emerald, IIRC. Just reverse-sort "all" by price and you'll find it pretty quick.

I have made a number of rings like the style you are proposing.

Hey LilAlex! Thanks for the reply. In the other thread I didn't say the sapphire was 14 carats but said that I wanted to set into 14k white or yellow gold. Thank you all for the feedback! I may try to design something for the middle finger. I could add a couple diamonds on the side possibly so it doesn't have the volcano effect like you mention. Anyone venture to guess (ballpark) what it would cost to set in 14k gold even if it did end up being a 20-30 gram ring? I know the price of gold is at an all time high. Would I be looking at $10K? More?

 

[Er215]

I love this ring, Star.

This is a beautiful ring!! Thanks for giving me your prospective in regards to how height is perceived in the example with your ring. I think I should make it work with my stone!

 

[LilAlex]

Anyone venture to guess (ballpark) what it would cost to set in 14k gold even if it did end up being a 20-30 gram ring? I know the price of gold is at an all time high. Would I be looking at $10K?

Apologies on mistaking my carats/karats!

It is a pretty stone for sure. An issue with the depth is that it faces up like a smaller (well, lighter) gem but the extra depth is undoubtedly contributing to the color and general appeal. So with your 90% depth ratio instead of a perhaps-better 70%, it faces up closer to a 5-ct sapphire, I think. But as @Autumn in New England points out, finding a nice unheated gem in this size range is so uncommon that I would not rule it on this basis.

Also: I would make this in 18K gold for sure -- forever marks it as "good" jewelry and alerts heirs that it's potentially a "real" gem, etc.

Gold is $96/gm and with a 25-gm ring in 18K, that's $1,800 in gold ($400 less if 14K). I would think you could make this for under $5K easy even with an excellent bench. It is not complicated and would be wax-carved. For what you had to pay for the gem, I would spend to get it well made. I would skip the side stones -- just not needed and, unless they were big, would just cheapen the look, imo. Have the sapphire ct-weight engraved inside the shank.

I would do this (this is the Lang ring):

 

[Autumn in New England]

Apologies on mistaking my carats/karats!

This reminds me of one of my favorite Taxi episodes. "I've mistaken blue berries for blueberries!"

 

[dk168]

I am a fan of Gypsy settings and have the following ring inspirations saved.

No other stones:





Fancier ones with stones:







DK

 

[Er215]

Apologies on mistaking my carats/karats!

It is a pretty stone for sure. An issue with the depth is that it faces up like a smaller (well, lighter) gem but the extra depth is undoubtedly contributing to the color and general appeal. So with your 90% depth ratio instead of a perhaps-better 70%, it faces up closer to a 5-ct sapphire, I think. But as @Autumn in New England points out, finding a nice unheated gem in this size range is so uncommon that I would not rule it on this basis.

Also: I would make this in 18K gold for sure -- forever marks it as "good" jewelry and alerts heirs that it's potentially a "real" gem, etc.

Gold is $96/gm and with a 25-gm ring in 18K, that's $1,800 in gold ($400 less if 14K). I would think you could make this for under $5K easy even with an excellent bench. It is not complicated and would be wax-carved. For what you had to pay for the gem, I would spend to get it well made. I would skip the side stones -- just not needed and, unless they were big, would just cheapen the look, imo. Have the sapphire ct-weight engraved inside the shank.

I would do this (this is the Lang ring):

These all sound like excellent recommendations! Thanks LilAlex! I love this Lang emerald ring! Hopefully I can get a similar finished look even though my stone has smaller dimensions. I love the idea of making it 18k gold. What are your thoughts of white gold vs. yellow? I initially had my heart set on yellow, but the jeweler mentioned most the blue sapphire rings they sell are set in white gold. I don’t find too many examples of larger blue sapphires set in yellow gold.

$5k sounds extremely reasonable to have this ring set. I know there are a list of gem / stone setters on this forum. I wonder if there are any you could recommend that would be absolutely top-notch? I don’t mind shipping the stone.

I also love the idea of engraving the ct. weight inside the shank!

If I added stones, I was thinking maybe baguettes on either side (same 9mm length as sapphire) to enlarge the footprint to avoid the volcano effect. Maybe not necessary and I won’t need any additional stones added.

 

[Avondale]

I initially had my heart set on yellow, but the jeweler mentioned most the blue sapphire rings they sell are set in white gold.

The stone will look great in both.

It's true, blue is usually set in white. It's such a classic, timeless look that it's difficult to stray away from it.

But fundamentally you have to choose the metal you want and like to wear. And if you want yellow gold, go with yellow gold. It will look good in yellow gold.

With such a stone the choice between yellow and white is difficult not because one is accepted and the other is uncommon, but because in reality both are very good combinations, so in going with one, you have to forgo the other.

 

[Er215]

The stone will look great in both.

It's true, blue is usually set in white. It's such a classic, timeless look that it's difficult to stray away from it.

But fundamentally you have to choose the metal you want and like to wear. And if you want yellow gold, go with yellow gold. It will look good in yellow gold.

With such a stone the choice between yellow and white is difficult not because one is accepted and the other is uncommon, but because in reality both are very good combinations, so in going with one, you have to forgo the other.

Thank you for your input. I do love both white and yellow gold. I have a vintage 14k white gold ring with star sapphire and diamonds that I love. I think I may actually lean towards white gold now with this ring. I’m thinking especially since this ring will sit a bit high, it might be a little more subtle in white gold.

 

[LilAlex]

$5k sounds extremely reasonable to have this ring set. I know there are a list of gem / stone setters on this forum. I wonder if there are any you could recommend that would be absolutely top-notch? I don’t mind shipping the stone.

Imo, you'd need a good wax carver. I have only done this exact style with my local B&M shop that closed during the pandemic (after 100 almost years). You could ask Inken at Enhoerning or Gary Roe in Maine.

And I meant if you went with YG, I would do 18K. If I were making this ring -- and some day I will -- i would go platinum all the way with a matte finish. (Tough finish to achieve -- not polished and not brushed -- for an almost gunmetal look). Alternative would be unplated 18K palladium WG which has a slight brownish cast that I love and will never cause allergies. (I developed a nickel allergy after wearing a plated WG ring for a year.)

Again, for the scale you are looking at, I would skip the side diamonds completely. Not sure where you are based but, imo, this is less-is-more territory; the gem speaks for itself.

i would consider using the circumferential bevels that align with the edges of the table facet, similar to the ring below. That is the best look of all, imo, and gives a more "tailored" look. We made a ring like that years ago and it was wonderful.

And to @dk168, I bought this very ring from Lang and this is what started my madness many years ago! It was gorgeous in person and very reasonable (WG + lapis; vintage) but it had an (addressable) issue and we ended up returning it. Lang was great to work with and we ended up buying something spendier. But this was my man's ring gateway drug!

 

[Dreamer_D]

I would go with a lower k weight gold to keep the weight down. Plat would be so heavy to wear!

 

[LilAlex]

I would go with a lower k weight gold to keep the weight down. Plat would be so heavy to wear!

I have a 38 g that's fun to wear! Another is platinum and 25-ish g (a son has that one now) and another is green gold and maybe 20+ g.

I used to know the density conversion for Pt vs 18K alloys; for Pt vs. Au, it's easy. (There are a number of 18K alloys so it's a bit of a guess until it's made.)

I like heavy for a man's flush-mount or bezel-set. I have one with a small, steep sugarloaf that my wife thinks "looks like a weapon" -- but it's just a tiny pointy-ish stone.

 

[dk168]

@LilAlex that Lapis Lazuli ring is nice, however, I personally would not have such a high/deep stone in a ring setting as it is quite soft.

DK

 

[dk168]

I would go with a lower k weight gold to keep the weight down.

That's what I would do when I want to keep the cost of the settings down.

For White Gold, it does not matter whether it is 18K or 9K, as they would look the same after being Rhodium plated.

The same would work for Silver too after Rhodium plating.

For the stone in the original post, I would use white metal. However, I could imagine Rose Gold would work nicely too.

DK

 

[Er215]

Thanks to all for the great feedback! I think I'm really leaning towards a white gold setting. I think I'd love this to be a heavy ring. 20-30 grams will be okay. I don't mind paying more for 18K but I'm not sure if I would need the durability of 14K or not.
If it shifts around on my finger a little due to weight, that is okay too.

I checked out Gary Roe Jewelry in Main (thanks for the recommendation LilAlex). He has some beautiful creations! I'll have to check out the other recommendation as well. I am located in Cape Coral, Florida. If anyone knows of a place in my area (even Miami, Naples, or Tampa), who would be great at creating a ring for me I'd appreciate any recommendations.

I want to keep it simple like the inspiration rings lilAlex and Dk168 provided. I will choose to mount only the sapphire without any other stones. I love the Lang emerald ring, the (also Lang) yellow sapphire ring I posted above, and the blue Lapis ring posted above. I will provide those 3 examples as my inspiration rings to whoever ends up working on my setting.

 

[LilAlex]

^ This all sounds great!

Remember: the simpler the ring, the more challenging it is to do "right" -- especially with wax. There is nowhere to hide. No milgrain or pave to cover mistakes.

I would seriously consider subtle bevels to the shank -- like on the lapis ring.

No way I would rhodium-plate that vast expanse of gentle curves -- will look crazy-shiny like a '50s chrome bumper and not at all like high jewelry, imo. (Speaking from experience -- I had a ring like that.) Plating is fine -- perfect, even -- for delicate, intricate things, imo, but you don't want this to look like cheap jewelry. Even brushed platinum is a little bright-white and shiny compared with unplated 18K palladium WG. I have been encouraged to use platinum with blue sapphire in the past but I think that my HG project like yours -- if I don't die first -- will be in unplated 18K palladium WG. Google Hemmerle rings and you can see how a slightly warmer metal (they use all kinds of kooky copper and iron alloys) makes the medium-tone blue sapphire really pop and appear that much more vivid. And, well, if you don't like it when you're done, you can always list it on LT (hint, hint ).

All eyes will be on the evenness of the bezel or the perimeter of the flush mounting. Especially for a stone as symmetric as yours, you need a near-flawless outline. That is probably the hardest part to get right. A wobbly or clumsy bezel will ruin the ring. (Note that it need not be perfect at the full-screen view you will blow it up to when you see photos of it, etc. -- it will be hand-done, after all.)

@Starstruck8 here probably has the most experience making this style of ring.

Really excited for you -- this is such a great project!

 

[Er215]

I will make sure I pick someone top notch to work on my ring! I think this is going to be an awesome ring once I get it going. I'm in the process now of pulling the trigger on a sapphire ring that I just can't refuse. I'll be sure to make a new thread to get some opinions. I'm hoping it's not too much ring for me!

 

[LilAlex]

I'm hoping it's not too much ring for me!

No such thing!

 

[Starstruck8]

@Starstruck8 here probably has the most experience making this style of ring.

I love what I call the 'Hemmerle barrel' style, i.e. like the lapis ring above, with bevels matching the corners of the stone and running right around the ring. But I
don't have a ring in that style. The closest I have is this orange zircon ring:

This has cutouts in the sides, but it could also have been done without them. Left is the actual ring, middle is photoshopped to remove the cutout:
Left - actual; Middle - cutout removed; Right - top raised.

But I'm not sure this concept suits a stone as deep as yours. The bezel of my ring is at about 5mm height. The right image is crudely photoshopped to raise it to about 7.5mm. This is not unacceptable in itself, but it's really a different concept.

Here is an actual Hemmerle ring, from this website :


Notice that the outer bezel slopes down to make the join with the main part of the ring lower, and that the outer edge of the bevel is quite low, which gives the 'barrel' look. If you search for Hemerle rings, you will see that this is typical.

I'm thinking that for a deep stone like yours, it may be better to embrace the depth and go for a design like that of the yellow beryl ring in my earlier post. Maybe not quite so fancy, but with some horizontal-ish design elements that break up the verticality. Having the bezel slope down to the edge, as in my yellow beryl ring and in the Hemmerle ring above is a good idea. It makes the ring look lower. It also reduces the glare from reflections. (A flat horizontal surface gives a bright reflection when you view the ring straight on with the light behind you.)

My ring size is about 9 (American), similar to yours. Both my rings are heavy, about 25g in 18K yellow/white gold. I like this. I've got used to the density of 18K gold. Lower karat feels cheap to me. (This may not be a preference you want to acquire...) Your ring is likely to be heavier. Don't be afraid to hollow out the front - it's not being a cheapskate, it's keeping the ring balanced, so that it's less likely to spin. For the same reason, don't skimp on the back.

 

[Autumn in New England]

No such thing!

I come from a Native American jewelry background, so you know I agree. They wear veritable saucers on their fingers.

 

[LilAlex]

Low-res photos but these are two Hemmerles I love:





I actually inquired about the second one back before I knew much (I mean, how much could it be, seriously?). I got my very polite answer but did not ask my follow-up question which would have been, "What do you have that's, say, 1/100th the price of that...?"

But this shows the bevels on the shank aligning with the edges of the table -- softer version up top in a warm-toned metal and a crisper version below in white metal.

 

[Er215]

Low-res photos but these are two Hemmerles I love:





I actually inquired about the second one back before I knew much (I mean, how much could it be, seriously?). I got my very polite answer but did not ask my follow-up question which would have been, "What do you have that's, say, 1/100th the price of that...?"

But this shows the bevels on the shank aligning with the edges of the table -- softer version up top in a warm-toned metal and a crisper version below in white metal.

Those Hemmerle rings are awesome! I also love Starstruck's citrine ring!

 

[Er215]

The Lang Antique's yellow sapphire ring that I posted above is what I just pulled the trigger on. I couldn't resist that golden yellow glow of the sapphire set in 18k gold! At Now I'll get a feel for what a heavy ring feels like before I have a ring made for my blue sapphire.