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Ruby for Engagement Ring

pcng3

Rough_Rock
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Dec 23, 2018
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411A15B8-AAB9-4BD4-A0F9-44629F97FA22.png Hi all,

This is my first post here, hello to all.

I am looking to buy an engagement ring, which will be ruby as my other half doesn’t want diamonds and we both love the significance of a ruby.

First stage is to find the ruby, so I have visited a reputable jeweller in London and my requirements were really:

Round (as per my other half’s wishes) and a budget of about £5000/£6000 for the finished ring all in.

The jeweller contacted his suppliers and showed me three rubies: I ruled out two of them, one was an oval and one was a bit too pink.

Below is a picture of one I liked. It is a 1.17 carat round from Mozambique which has been heat treated.

I had a look at it under the loupe and there weren’t many inclusions of note, it was pretty clean as far as rubies go.

What is interesting about it is that it has quite a large diameter (6.5mm) I believe for that carat, and that is due to the shallower cut. Despite this, in person it seemed to retain colour well across the ruby.

However, looking at the picture below (the only one I have unfortunately until the jeweller gets back from Xmas), I think there’s a window probably due to the cut. Also looks slightly more pink than I remember but overall I really like the colour.

All in, an 18 carat gold solitaire setting with this ruby was coming in just shy of £5000.

Wanted to get some opinions from well-trained eyes on the ruby itself. And also, whether it is worth asking for certification.

Many thanks for any guidance.
 

chrono

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Always find out whether it’s been glass filled, beryllium diffused, and how much flux healing it’s undergone.
 

pcng3

Rough_Rock
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Dec 23, 2018
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Thanks for the reply chrono. I know this jeweller doesn't source rubies which have been treated beyond heating. That is of course based on their word - they are reputable here in the UK. I have no certification currently and hence this is one thing I have asked if possible to obtain from the jeweller which should confirm this for me.
 

pcng3

Rough_Rock
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Dec 23, 2018
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1701A94D-5B6E-4E9B-925A-DE8DDC2E49A9.jpeg Apologies just found that the jeweller has sent a second picture with their initial email: the window effect is much clearer here. Again, in person I didn’t get this impression but now I’m more read up on it I might be looking for it.

I would really appreciate any input about what to go back with given the price i’m quoted. Currently chasing for any documentation/certification to prove that heat treatment is all this has received.

Thanks again.
 

pcng3

Rough_Rock
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Dec 23, 2018
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Thanks strawrose.

That one looks like it has been cut much better - I know it is the shallow cut of the one I have currently been offered that it is showing this window. I just have to hope that when I relook at it the effect isn't so obvious as it looks as I'm paying a decent amount of money for it!

Currently have commissioned the CAD for a small deposit. Want to see what it looks like as my dealings with this jeweller has been excellent. After that I presume it is a case of rechecking this ruby, and if not happy with it to see my options at that stage.
 

clumberlove

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Sep 22, 2018
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279
Thanks strawrose.

That one looks like it has been cut much better - I know it is the shallow cut of the one I have currently been offered that it is showing this window. I just have to hope that when I relook at it the effect isn't so obvious as it looks as I'm paying a decent amount of money for it!

Currently have commissioned the CAD for a small deposit. Want to see what it looks like as my dealings with this jeweller has been excellent. After that I presume it is a case of rechecking this ruby, and if not happy with it to see my options at that stage.

It doesn't seem to be a huge window, you may find it closes up in a setting, so it's less noticeable. It partly depends on how sensitive you are to windows. I am no expert, so I can't comment on the value. The colour is nice, but I would be tempted to ask for a lab report to determine whether heat is the only treatment.
 

Bron357

Ideal_Rock
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Hi, a windows in a Ruby isn’t the end of the world. With any gem, once tilted a window will appear. It looking straight down and seeing “through the gem” = window which is undesirable but with rubies it’s colour that reigns supreme.
You definitely need a lab report.
The truth is that miner even 1,000 miles from “civilization” can still be beryllium treating and/or using flux along with heat.
Rubies are worth soooo much money that almost anyone and everyone will do whatever they can get away with to improve colour and clarity and therefore $$$$.
It’s one of the reasons why unheated rubies are worshipped, no heat means no other treatment can have occurred. Because beryllium treatment is so difficult to detect you simply have to get a reputable lab report these days. I’m sure your jeweller won’t be knowingly selling enhanced rubies but without a lab report who knows. A lab certified heat only no residue Ruby IS worth £3,000 but a Ruby which has residue and/or BE treatment ALOT less. ALOT.
Plenty of people are happy to have a Ruby that has been “enhanced” but they only want to be paying “tens or hundreds” of £ NOT thousands.
With buying internationally you have two things to keep in mind -
1. You will pay taxes and customs to import. You need to check what these are before you buy - which leads into
2. Returning the gem if it doesn’t meet with your expectations.
Some international sellers will ship to you BUT can’t accept a return AND/OR those taxes and customs you paid may not be refundable to you.
 

pcng3

Rough_Rock
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Dec 23, 2018
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15
clumberlove - Many thanks for your response. Yes I had read up that a small window may close up once set. I guess I'll need to relook at the gem in person and look straight down the barrel so to speak to see how big the window is in different lights. I am 100% asking for a lab report from the jeweller - already requested so thanks for affirming this.

Bron357 - I have seen your intelligible responses in a number of ruby related threads and posts so I do really appreciate your input. It has made me more accepting of some kind of window, I guess it was just the window in my picture in post #4 seemed to be larger as it was less well lit than the post #1 picture. My initial impression too was the colour was really nice and as you said colour is king. I will 100% get this lab report and do my best to ensure beyond jeweller's word that this is "heat only no residue".

Appreciate all the help with this all so far.
 

MissyBeaucoup

Brilliant_Rock
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1,124
I like the Pearlman’s ruby better and the window in the first one would bother me. I am a bit pickier about cut than some people and less picky about inclusions and zoning. The cut affects how the light plays around in the stone, so to me it’s something you notice more with time.
 

pcng3

Rough_Rock
Joined
Dec 23, 2018
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15
Hi MissyBeaucoup, thank you appreciate your input. Yes I understand this as well. In this case colour and clarity are very good but cut has left a little to be desired. Its never as easy as you like :(2
 

strawrose

Brilliant_Rock
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May 24, 2014
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1,102
Gemobsessed could find a ruby for you.
She recently went into the trade after being a member here. (The account is still in the process of getting that trade badge).


I purchased from her before and the color/cut was beautiful. A lot of PSers have done so as well. She has a return policy as long as you pay for shipping. She’s reachable on Instagram as gemobsessedSingapore. You can see some of her stones on the account.
 
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pcng3

Rough_Rock
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Dec 23, 2018
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Many thanks strawrose. I will definitely look her up. I guess the factor I hadn't mentioned here was that I had chosen this jeweller for their specific ethical sourcing policy which is why I would like to speak with them first. I may also ask them a question about whether they would be willing to set a gemstone bought from elsewhere. As well, time is not as much on my side as I would have liked (it never is hey)!
 

strawrose

Brilliant_Rock
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I hope it all turns out well! It’s great that you’re looking for an ethical ruby.


If it turns out he’ll take outside stones, there is a UK vendor on the recommended list who has several rubies: https://www.topgem.co.uk/
You would have to contact them about pricing. It might be easier for shipping.

Here are two that gemobsessed has: https://www.instagram.com/p/Br6f6_ynfD9/?utm_source=ig_share_sheet&igshid=1q8vja8bd0w0m

I still think about that Pearlman’s one. I wonder how it looks like in normal lighting? :confused:
 

pcng3

Rough_Rock
Joined
Dec 23, 2018
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15
Hope everyone had a good Xmas and New Year break.

Update: I am going to head back into the jeweller's on Monday to have a better look at the ruby and see what it looks like again on the back of my hand and in various lights.

I have requested the gem be certified (at my own cost) at GCS in London - anybody have any experience/knowledge of them? They seem reputable here.

Meanwhile the CADs have come in, maybe the setting can close a small part of the window if its there ;-). In case anyone's interested or has any opinions on how to improve:

IR-6801 (1).JPG IR-6801 (2).JPG IR-6801 (3).JPG IR-6801 (4).JPG IR-6801 (5).jpg
 

chrono

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Beautiful design. How is the underside? Is there a way to get underneath to clean out any dirt, lint, and gunk?
 

pcng3

Rough_Rock
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Dec 23, 2018
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Beautiful design. How is the underside? Is there a way to get underneath to clean out any dirt, lint, and gunk?

Great question, I will ask them on Monday. Any idea about how good GCS is for certification?
 

chrono

Super_Ideal_Rock
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I am not familiar with them but I do know the peeps who know their stuff in EU will send their stones to GIA because there's no good CS labs in the UK.
 

pcng3

Rough_Rock
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1EE369A6-ABD7-41B2-B366-C4A5BD4A50EC.jpeg DDE92A20-031B-442C-A585-FA06570F564C.jpeg
FYI Final outcome - very happy. Colour is really something and really has sparks. Thanks for all the help, greatly appreciated.

In terms of characteristics, 1.17 carats ethically sourced, Mozambique origin and 18 karat fairtrade gold.
 
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clumberlove

Shiny_Rock
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Sep 22, 2018
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1EE369A6-ABD7-41B2-B366-C4A5BD4A50EC.jpeg DDE92A20-031B-442C-A585-FA06570F564C.jpeg
FYI Final outcome - very happy. Colour is really something and really has sparks. Thanks for all the help, greatly appreciated.

In terms of characteristics, 1.17 carats ethically sourced, Mozambique origin and 18 karat fairtrade gold.

It's beautiful! Turned out really well and the rich yellow of the 18kt gold really makes it pop. I hope you're happy with it, I would be thrilled :appl::kiss2:
 

voce

Ideal_Rock
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May 13, 2018
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1EE369A6-ABD7-41B2-B366-C4A5BD4A50EC.jpeg DDE92A20-031B-442C-A585-FA06570F564C.jpeg
FYI Final outcome - very happy. Colour is really something and really has sparks. Thanks for all the help, greatly appreciated.

In terms of characteristics, 1.17 carats ethically sourced, Mozambique origin and 18 karat fairtrade gold.
Congratulations! Your ruby ring is an elegant beauty! :kiss2:
 

pcng3

Rough_Rock
Joined
Dec 23, 2018
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15
Many thanks both. Yes I am very happy with it. Design turned out exactly like the CAD, and with regards to the ruby I'm especially pleased with how it manages to retain colour, it has really good coverage. I'm sure my other half will be pleased (I pray it fits her finger). The ruby measures 6.5mm across and she has a size 4.5 finger so coverage in this sense should be good as well.
 

voce

Ideal_Rock
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May 13, 2018
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5,161
Many thanks both. Yes I am very happy with it. Design turned out exactly like the CAD, and with regards to the ruby I'm especially pleased with how it manages to retain colour, it has really good coverage. I'm sure my other half will be pleased (I pray it fits her finger). The ruby measures 6.5mm across and she has a size 4.5 finger so coverage in this sense should be good as well.

Well, if she likes rubies, I think she will say yes!

I hope your other half took part in the design process. Surprise with the ring itself is overrated. You can propose first and then decide on the ring together. Or, design a ring together and make the proposal the surprise, not the ring itself. When guys decide everything without input from their other halves, :wall:.
 

pcng3

Rough_Rock
Joined
Dec 23, 2018
Messages
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Well, if she likes rubies, I think she will say yes!

I hope your other half took part in the design process. Surprise with the ring itself is overrated. You can propose first and then decide on the ring together. Or, design a ring together and make the proposal the surprise, not the ring itself. When guys decide everything without input from their other halves, :wall:.

Well the input I had was ruby with yellow gold basically, she was more than happy for me to design it. She doesn't much go for great extravagance so I kept it quite simple. She loves flowers/nature so I tried to incorporate this subtly with petal prongs and the twisted shank seemed like an organic way to represent vines.

I'm sure she'll love it knowing her. I did seek advice from my mum and sister in the design process with the CADs, who do have similar taste as her.

But I do definitely agree with your overall point - I won't be wearing the ring on my finger for the rest of my life after all.
 

voce

Ideal_Rock
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Well the input I had was ruby with yellow gold basically, she was more than happy for me to design it. She doesn't much go for great extravagance so I kept it quite simple. She loves flowers/nature so I tried to incorporate this subtly with petal prongs and the twisted shank seemed like an organic way to represent vines.

I'm sure she'll love it knowing her. I did seek advice from my mum and sister in the design process with the CADs, who do have similar taste as her.

But I do definitely agree with your overall point - I won't be wearing the ring on my finger for the rest of my life after all.

All right, it was not as I had feared. Good job, it's quite a beautiful ring, and since you incorporated her taste and got help from her mum and sister, she will probably love it! Thanks for sharing it with us here. :kiss2:
 

Lykame

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Jun 1, 2018
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1,433
Always nice to see updates! Beautiful ring! I really like that setting!

How did the certification go? Also what were your further thoughts on the window? It's not so obvious in the pictures.

The next update needs to be hand shots once she says yes!!! :kiss2:
 

pcng3

Rough_Rock
Joined
Dec 23, 2018
Messages
15
Always nice to see updates! Beautiful ring! I really like that setting!

How did the certification go? Also what were your further thoughts on the window? It's not so obvious in the pictures.

The next update needs to be hand shots once she says yes!!! :kiss2:

Thanks Lykame.
Apologies I knew there was an update I forgot!

It was sent to GCS which is a respected lab in London (so far as we can get here...) and it was returned as an only heat-treated ruby. So that was my cue to give the go ahead.

Yes the window was my largest concern during production but the setting really seems to have closed it off and the colour seems to retain really well across the face compared to the pictures. It really is hard to photograph rubies it seems.

Hah yes indeed I will take some shots on her finger.
 

Lykame

Brilliant_Rock
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Jun 1, 2018
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1,433
Thanks Lykame.
Apologies I knew there was an update I forgot!

It was sent to GCS which is a respected lab in London (so far as we can get here...) and it was returned as an only heat-treated ruby. So that was my cue to give the go ahead.

Yes the window was my largest concern during production but the setting really seems to have closed it off and the colour seems to retain really well across the face compared to the pictures. It really is hard to photograph rubies it seems.

Hah yes indeed I will take some shots on her finger.

That's really great news! Really delighted for you! I'm glad everything came together and you've made a beautiful ring! Best of luck with the proposal! :geek2: We look forward to those further pictures!
 

kathness

Shiny_Rock
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Feb 4, 2013
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402
beautiful ring op!
 

cnkav

Shiny_Rock
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Jan 12, 2007
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318
Very beautiful. I love red ruby with yellow gold. She will be so pleased.
 
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