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Round Diamond + Setting Help

arvashi

Rough_Rock
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Joined
Jan 7, 2018
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21
Hi PS Experts

This site has proved to be a great resource for my preliminary research and helped narrow down things i need to focus on. This is my first post and a novice with diamond so forgive my ignorance.

I am based in Sydney. Looking to get my wife’s first solitaire ring on our 14th wedding anniversary. What my research says:

1. I would like min. 1 carat diamond (her finger size is US 7)
2. Whiteflash - a cut above is the best option considering I cannot physically see the diamond and is most recommended here.
3. Budget is flexible but guess want to stick around 10-12k AUD which seems minimum for such diamonds. ( not including setting).

What i need to know:
1. A cut above (AGS0), HCA score between 1-2, Idealscope or ASET image - if i stick to these, will it be enough as I cannot physically see or viable to return due to my location?
2. For Colour & Clarity how low can i go without affecting the overall fire/brilliance - don’t want to compromise but trying to find that sweet spot (my view: F or G - without compromising colour? VS1 or VS2)
3. Setting: White Gold vs Platinum. 4 vs 6 prongs? Like single diamond solitaire ring.
4. Anyone fron Down Under, do we pay 10% or 15% customs @ Sydney?

Appreciate your time and expertise.
 
Whiteflash's A Cut Above would definitely be an amazing performer - I am not the expert here but I am sure others would chime in on what ACAs in the inventory would meet your criteria. They are able to look at the diamonds for you physically, provide feedback as well as videos so that should alleviate the concern over performance.

Another contender would be GoodOldGold's Ascendancy line (super ideals) - GOG is a respected vendor here, and performs a ton of analysis on their diamonds with videos so you get to see the visual performance on their website. Similar to WF, they can provide feedback and additional videos etc.

For color, it depends on how color sensitive your wife is. I would say a G color is my sweet spot - faces up nice and white, no tint whatsoever either from top or side. Clarity wise I think VS is a safe bet, although I have seen amazing SI eye clean stones from the above vendors - which means it's possible for you to go up in size or save some $.

Settings wise I would suggest a 6 prong - it's a classic design, but more importantly, it's also more secure. If it's a 4 prong, just 1 prong getting damaged means the diamond may fall out. If you are afraid of the 6 prong overwhelming the center stone, the vendor can do claw prongs to make it look a bit more delicate. Or if she prefers 4 prongs, heavy duty 4 prongs would be a bit more secure.

Not Australian so can't answer the tax question, but @Bron357 mentioned a 10% GST and / or possible fees in this other thread.
 
Hi from fellow Aussie. How it works with importation is yes, you’ll pay 10% GST but provided the US vendor does the right export documentation, you can avoid the extra 5% tariff due to the US - Australian free trade agreement for items made wholly within the US. I would expect Whiteflash and the like to be familiar with this. Smaller vendors, maybe not. If Fed ex or UPS is doing the shipping you’ll get a call from them asking for payment over the phone (have your Visa card handy) before they deliver it to you. Customs fees I think are another $85 or so. I got “stung” with the extra 5% because my US seller didn’t do the export documents and I didn’t want my precious parcel to languish while I tried to sort it out so I just paid the 15%. You can then claim back a refund from Aust Customs. A bit painful. Sigh.
 
I'd definitely go with 6-prong. Your choice of WF for their ACA diamonds is a good and safe one. I'd you're looking at several diamonds, their staff can take photos and film the diamonds side by side for comparison. The friendly forum regulars can also help you pick a diamond
 
@Alexiszoe, @Lore
Thanks for your super fast response. Will definitely check out GOG and it seems 6-prongs setting is going to be the way to go.
 
@Bron357

Mate, thanks for the tips. 5% saved can go towards the cost of the setting :-)
 
2. For Colour & Clarity how low can i go without affecting the overall fire/brilliance - don’t want to compromise but trying to find that sweet spot (my view: F or G - without compromising colour? VS1 or VS2)
3. Setting: White Gold vs Platinum. 4 vs 6 prongs? Like single diamond solitaire ring.

Hello and welcome to PS! I just had a couple points to further explain beyond what you've already been told.
The color of the diamond will not affect fire and brilliance, until you get into an actual fancy colored stone. That said, you need to choose a stone color that you/the intended wearer can tolerate. Sticking with no lower than a G/H is a good sweet spot for a stone that you haven’t seen in person. Higher color is always fine too if you like the icy whiteness and the budget allows.

Regarding white gold or platinum: do a forum search as this debate has raged the whole time PS has been around. I’d look and post a thread but I am running short on time this morning.

Now finally, the 4 prong 6 prong question. Really this is personal preference at the 1 carat size. 4 prongs can’t make the stone look squarer, but is more likely to allow a wedding band to sit flush. This depends on the individual setting you choose and band she chooses, however.
 
 
Here's my input. I have an I/VS2 WF ACA and LOVE it. I'd recommend this color and clarity combo to anyone who was shopping for a super ideal cut diamond.

Answering your Qs:

1. A cut above (AGS0), HCA score between 1-2, Idealscope or ASET image - if i stick to these, will it be enough as I cannot physically see or viable to return due to my location? There are of course people who have returned diamonds to WF because they didn't like something, but if I were to shop online and to buy something sight unseen without the possibility of returning, I'd stick with WF, Brian Gavin or High Performance Diamonds (CBI diamond)
2. For Colour & Clarity how low can i go without affecting the overall fire/brilliance - don’t want to compromise but trying to find that sweet spot (my view: F or G - without compromising colour? VS1 or VS2) I thought I was color sensitive, having thought an H was too tinted (years ago) and had thus stuck with G or higher in my upgrades. Now that I have a "I" ACA, I am flabbergasted that it does NOT look tinted to me. I/VS2 is a great way to maximize the size of the diamond without having a tinted or included diamond.
3. Setting: White Gold vs Platinum. 4 vs 6 prongs? Like single diamond solitaire ring. Personal preference but I like platinum (never requires replating) and 6-prong looks best to me. 4-prong rings tend to make a diamond look square-ish to me rather than round.

(just my opinions)
 
Alternatively, platinum tends to scratch much easier than white gold, or should I say, “develop a patina.” I wear one of each every day, and while my white gold ring could use a replaying of rhodium, it’s much shinier than my platinum ring. A plain ring will show this more than an engraved or pave ring would.
But platinum has definite benefits, especially for prongs and metal retention. It’s softer than the brittle white gold, which doesn’t sound like a benefit until you realize that the alternative to bending is cracking and possibly breaking. It can also be polished without removing material- it just “pushes” the metal back into place.
 
Thank you for your feedback so far.

I have contacted WF and one of their expert diamond consultant will get in touch. Will post my short listed diamonds soon.

Still confused on the setting. Most of her jewellery is white gold. Considering she is hands on with cooking and manage 11y/6y old girls, how risky is breaking prongs/ ring in white gold or at opposite end scratch/ damage platinum?

4 vs 6 prongs: overall 6 prongs seem safer. My only concern whether it will cover diamond too much? It may lose that single solitaire effect.

If you can chime in, thanks.
 
4 vs 6 prongs: overall 6 prongs seem safer. My only concern whether it will cover diamond too much? It may lose that single solitaire effect.
If the prongs are well done I don’t think 6 of them will overwhelm a 1ct stone. Only you can’t make that final decision. You’ll have to see what your eyes are drawn to.

https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/solitaire-settings.48721/
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/show-me-your-solitaire.73489/
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/show-me-your-solitaires-please.197346/
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/4-prong-vs-6-prong.191878/
 
It’s been slow progress. Thought best to get my wife involved as too big a risk with design/metal choice without her consent.

Calling fellow Aussies...
- if we decide to order the ring through WF, what are the options in Sydney for ongoing maintenance? Is it Expensive and are jewellers who are willing to do only maintenance easy to find?
- is it better to just ship diamond and get it set here?
- how is quality of diamond at places like Diamond Emporium, GS Diamonds in Sydney vs WF or James Allen?

Thanks.
 
It’s been slow progress. Thought best to get my wife involved as too big a risk with design/metal choice without her consent.

Calling fellow Aussies...
- if we decide to order the ring through WF, what are the options in Sydney for ongoing maintenance? Is it Expensive and are jewellers who are willing to do only maintenance easy to find?
- is it better to just ship diamond and get it set here?
- how is quality of diamond at places like Diamond Emporium, GS Diamonds in Sydney vs WF or James Allen?

Thanks.

I’m from Melbourne so I can’t answer any questions about jewellers in Sydney.
I did buy a super ideal online and have it set here but that’s because I found a setting here that I really liked.
The advantage to getting the setting here is that they can do all maintenance, some jewellers have lifetime free rhodium replating (for white gold) and resizing etc, but just keep in mind not all jewellers will set outside diamonds, and also that there is a risk of the diamond chipping while being set, which you will not be covered for if you have it set here.
If you want a cream of the crop diamond I would suggest you get a super ideal online. If you’re happy with a diamond which is very sparkly and nice then a GIA xxx will be ok. Either way you’ll pay a lot less online than buying locally
 
Hello,
Happy shopping!!
10 percent GST plus the customs processing fee (can’t recall but was 100-200 dollars) that FedEx charge for expediting processing. I mentioned in another thread to use OFX or negotiate the exchange rate with your bank. You’ll save significant money as the over the counter bank wire exchange rate can be one or two percentage points worse than the floor rate.

Returns are not hard. You contact Whiteflash who arrange FedEx to send a label plus request a FedEx box - and pick up from your premise but at your cost. Ask WF for a quote - I’ve never had to return!

You won’t really need that much maintenance. Others will recommend Sydney jewellers who are reliable and would work on jewellery not purchased from them.

Sometimes easier to have set and complete overseas. Trying to find someone local to work on a setting requires a significant level of trust. Cartier will set an outside stone for instance but are not cheap and have strict criteria what they would allow.

Go look at Tiffany - plenty of 6 prong settings with beautiful diamonds that don’t overwhelm.

Photo of a 6 prong WF ring in Sydney x

DC1C7166-A73F-4C48-B677-F652B3EDE57E.jpeg
 
You need to make sure that the vendor fills in the correct AUSTFA documents/declarations to get the 5% and what I do because I've had issues with customs before is get the vendor to email me a copy of them before they tape them to the front of the box. That way when customs claim they can't find them you just email them to customs and they can't then charge you the extra 5%. It's a s@#*fight trying to wade through their red tape to claim it back again, so it's best to avoid getting charged it in the first place.
 
Thanks all. Customs side apart, what i am really interested to know is how viable it is to get the ring from WF or JA and keep up with the maintenance here in Sydney or Australia in general.

My wife’s friend bought a solitaire ring from a local diamond wholesaler and she paid around same (10k AUD) and got free lifetime servicing - wondering if its worth purchasing online from US as we would not get that benefit for sure.

Thanks.
 
There is very little maintainance to worry about, replating white gold aside. Get yourself a 10x loupe and check the prongs periodically. If loose, get a good local jeweller to check. Anything dramatic, like hitting it hard enough to torque the head is not maintenance but repair. If you get a a metalk that does not need plating, you eliminate that.
 
I’m from Sydney originally (now living overseas) but friends who recently got engaged have told me there are cost savings to buying diamonds in the US or even Hong Kong rather than locally. I understand that if you are bringing goods into Australia that are valued at over $1000 AUD, you might be liable for import duty (ranges from 0-10%) as well as GST (10%).

If you are after something customised and hand made, I highly recommend our jeweller: Sydney Cove Jewellers at The Rocks, Circular Quay. He used to work at Canturi before setting up his own shop.
 
Thanks @Gemjardine.

We have tried doing an online search with couple of diamond wholesalers in Sydney using the stringent quality characteristics PS experts recommend, and found nothing.

Hence my question - is quality of diamonds available in Sydney not at par with WF/JA?
My wife wants to look & feel the diamond and the setting she chooses, fair enough, does that mean we need to compromise on quality diamond?

Thank you.
 
Hi, I’m not in Sydney but in NZ instead. Tagging some Aussies who know the Aus market tho @bmfang @ac117
WF sell super ideal cuts. JA sell a wide range of diamonds and have a curated line of True Hearts as well as ideal cuts which are generally considered to be better cut proportions and symmetry. For the most part we do not have super ideals in the shops here even the high end ones. Super ideals are usually sold by the people who cut them or are cut to order eg WF Brian Gavin, CBI/HPD.
So no, with a few exceptions, the quality of diamonds are not on par with the super ideals you see at WF.
It may be on par with what you can find at JA since much of their stock is virtual inventory and most jewellers should be able to call in virtual stones. How easy that is to do in Aus, I don’t know.
The general approach in NZ and in Aus though is still to prioritise colour, clarity and carat over cut and to try and convince consumers that those 3 Cs are all you need to have a beautiful sparkler.
I also think the prices are a lot higher when I compare what’s available here to the same specs* online in the US.
* comparing specs is usually really difficult since we don’t see many (if any) GIA/AGS diamonds advertised. Most are ungraded or given an in-house grading so proper comparisons are impossible since the local stones are a relatively unknown quantity.
 
Actually most Australians prioritise size. Almost all jeweller advertisements will list carat weight and the sales rep will say “that’s really good value for a x Ct” whilst the fact it’s an EGL grades J computed IL stone ...

Whilst there are gems to be had, you do get what you pay for and in Australia, usually you pay more than what you could get elsewhere, better.

Fox is spot on above with their generalisations.

If bringing a diamond from overseas, hand carry without the receipt!
 
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