Rotating Princess 45 degrees

[aaronka99]

I have just stumbled onto this site and find it incredibly helpful. I have been searching for diamond info for the past few months. My girlfriend is very picky about what she likes so I am taking my time to ensure I get the best ring for the little money I have.

The setting that I am considering is a princess cut center diamond that is rotated so that the 4 corners point in the cardinal directions (N, S, E, W) then two pear shapes with tips facing the E and W points. I have never seen this setting and I dont know if it would look nice. I need a setting that looks delicate as the ring size is 4.5 so anything that looks too heavy and think won''t match my girlfriends delicate persona.

Does anyone know if this setting is possible and if it would look good? I am a huge fan of the tension set rings from GAI, particularly TR-075, Tr-117 as the princess diamond used is in the orientation that i like. but I dont know how to get other diamonds (maybe pear shapes or rounds) into a setting that utilizes a tension.

Does anyone have any input about what would look nice with a princess oriented like this?

 

[TerpLover]

I saw princess e-ring just like the one you are describing on the show Perfect Proposal on TLC. I liked it, I think it takes a stone that is fairly common and adds a unique quality to it. Go for it!!

 

[valeria101]

Just when I started to wander why would two separate posts ask about a simmilar - VERY UNUSUAL - combination of stones in the same day !!! (here is the other thread)

Sounds like a great idea, BTW

 

[valeria101]

 

[Griffin]

I think it is a great idea, but only with several VERY serious caveats.

I have done several of this type of ring, but only with cut corner stones so far. One of my "secret" designs to head up a new bridal line I am currently developing involves this configuration with a somewhat similarly shaped branded cut of stone.

The exposed corners need to be protected in an orientation like this. VERY protected. A tension set like you mention is right out for this arrangement of center stone for the same reason - this would put the tension (compressive load) directly on the other two points, another recipe for breakage. This can be overcome, but that is a different technical discussion. File this idea under "unobtanium" for all general mounting purposes.
Pear shapes cannot be traditionally tension set on the long axis for the same reason.

I really like the idea, just be very careful. There is a reason you don't generally see commercial mounts with this orientation.

 

[glitterata]

Also, tension settings are anything but delicate. They have to be very wide and thick to put enough pressure on the stone to hold it safely.

 

[Nicrez]

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On 3/8/2004 3:45:47 AM Griffin wrote:





I think it is a great idea, but only with several VERY serious caveats.

I have done several of this type of ring, but only with cut corner stones so far. One of my 'secret' designs to head up a new bridal line I am currently developing involves this configuration with a somewhat similarly shaped branded cut of stone.

The exposed corners need to be protected in an orientation like this. VERY protected. A tension set like you mention is right out for this arrangement of center stone for the same reason - this would put the tension (compressive load) directly on the other two points, another recipe for breakage. This can be overcome, but that is a different technical discussion. File this idea under 'unobtanium' for all general mounting purposes.
Pear shapes cannot be traditionally tension set on the long axis for the same reason.

I really like the idea, just be very careful. There is a reason you don't generally see commercial mounts with this orientation.
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So Griffin, I am guessing box radiants would be done in a 45 degree setting, much more easily than a princess? I actually had thought of that when I saw a radiant stone loose. I put it on a shell of a setting, just to see how the "lucida-like" setting looked, and it fell off the prongs and went 45 degrees...I was intrigued as it was diamond shaped, in that angle and looked like it could really be unique if set that way. Any pictures of these settings you may have made? I have a cushion cut topaz, and am looking for unique settings...

 

[aaronka99]

Thanks for the input everyone

this leads me to my next question. how wide/thick does the band have to be for a tension setting (I would have the tension placed on two oppossing sides rather than at the points, (i.e. NE side and SW side if points are cardinal directions)

Also, i have been considering getting the center diamond from mondera, is this a good site to do business with? I like there selection better than bluenile and other sites, and they are much cheaper than brand name stores such as Gingers and Tiffany's.

 

[Nicrez]

Have you tried the Price Scope vendors yet?


https://www.pricescope.com/dealers.asp




Some of the better known and well loved vendors include (but are not limited to):


www.Whiteflash.com


www.goodoldgold.com


www.dirtcheapdiamonds.com


www.niceice.com


www.usacerteddiamonds.com


www.buydiamonddirect.com




Mondera's OK, but not sure how good their cuts are, as there has been less feedback from Mondera customers on this site...

 

[glitterata]

I would strongly advise against a tension setting for an engagement ring, unless your girlfriend helps pick it out.

First of all, you say your girlfriend likes delicate settings. If you set a princess in a tension ring, the band will have to be at least the width of the stone, more or less. So if your stone is 6 mm wide, say, that makes for a really wide band. It will also have to be thick in the other dimension--it might feel to her as though it's pushing her fingers apart. That's fine if she wants a hefty, substantial setting, but delicate it's not.

Then there's the sizing problem. Tension settings can't be resized. If you guess wrong about her size or her finger size changes, she won't be able to wear the ring. You'll have to have it entirely remade. And a woman's ring size varies a lot even from day to day, depending on the weather, her menstrual cycle, whether she exercised recently, what she had for dinner last night. Over the years, especially if you guys are planning to have children, her ring size is very likely to change. The wider the band, the worse the effect--and, as I said, tension rings have wide bands.

Don't get me wrong--I love the look of tension settings. I think they can be gorgeous and they're incredibly cool. I just think you have to know what you're getting into--which means SHE has to know what she's getting into. It's a bad idea to surprise her with a tension setting.

 

[valeria101]

How wide/thick does the band have to be for a tension setting (I would have the tension placed on two opposing sides rather than at the points, (i.e. NE side and SW side if points are cardinal directions)

----------------[/quote]

It may be useful for you to look over a few tension settings - most models shown online are titanium ones, so you may want to look over Ti stone settings for design ideas, even if you end up having a platinum one made for you.

In most models, the width of the band matches the width of the stone to protect it. Also, it is common that the thickness of the band near the stone has to insure enough space between the girdle of the diamond and the finger - so the band has to be at least as thick in that area as the pavilion height of the diamond. However some models solve this technicality otherwise... These considerations make the tension settings rather substantial - or better suited to smaller stones (up to 1ct or near).

However, there is no rule, and designs can be modified allot. recently, Garry ('Cut Nut') posted a tension setting design with the width of the band way less than the diameter of the diamond (you may find it among his posts). The look was VERY nice and a medium to slightly thick girdle of the diamond could also provide decent, if not perfect, safety to this type of mounting... I suppose.

 

[aaronka99]

Thank you Glitterata and Valerie for your input. I did not realize that the band had to be so thick. I think I might rethink my design and switch it over to a traditional setting. Maybe I'll buy her a tension set diamond another time beause I like them more than any other setting!

I'll keep everyone posted when I get the diamonds and settings. I have to get a wax model of my design so that I can see if it will look good now, I just bought the center diamond today. A 55pt VVS1 E from mondera. My friend used mondera and i think their cut is very pretty. I wanted a bigger rock but my girlfriend has such small fingers and she likes rings that don't stick up so high. But this stone will be beautiful I think. Its a premium cut and excellent in symmetry and polish!

 

[boonerings]

The trick for mounting a Princess at a 45 degree angle in a tension set is not loading the corners, which may crack under the tension. I've done it here by drilling holes where the corners will go. This one is done in titanium, so the thickness possible is a little less than what gold or platinum ones would usually take.