Reshanking and repairing a crack on a vintage piece...help!

[TechieTechie]

Hi PSers....

From the 'coming attractions' thread, some folks know I've been ring shopping. I have an antique JGB piece out on 'loan' (aka the return period). I love the style, but it needs resized up 3.25 sizes to a size 10 (which I knew going in).


https://www.jewelsbygrace.com/1-00ctw-vintage-double-row-baguette-and-diamond-band

I took it to a well known Boston jeweler to get a quote on the resizing, and I admit, I was surprised. Not terribly surprised that the ring is from the 20s (due to the PLAT stamping) and that they wanted to reshank it (given the size changed). I was really surprised that:

1. Two of the stones are chipped
2. The setting, on both sides of the face, is cracked (the bench said it was probably due a previous resizing)
3. They wanted $650 to re-shank and fix the cracks.

I guess, my question to PSers are:

1. Is this (setting crack and stone chipping) terribly uncommon in older rings?
2. Is this a normal price for re-shanking?

I really do like the setting, but the cost to reshank and fix the crack is 1/2 what I paid for the ring. Just don't know if it's worth it.

Thanks in advance...

Techie

 

[bludiva]

I got a quote of about 300 to reshank a white gold ring last year and they told me it would end up a bit oval, not perfectly round. That ring was only a few years old and had no cracks so what they quoted you may be reasonable. To be honest with all of those issues if it were me I'd probably send it back and keep looking, sounds like the metal has already been weakened quite a bit.

 

[YadaYadaYada]

Yeah reahanking is expensive, and especially with platinum.

Here is what you need to ask yourself, is the cost associated with fixing all these issues worth not having to wait for another one to come along? It could be a bit before you find another one just like this, as long as you don't mind having to wait then it may make the most financial sense to return it.

 

[prs]

Why not tell the original vendor what you found, and see if they'll cover some of the reshanking cost. They might prefer to do that rather than have you return it.

 

[missy]

Why not tell the original vendor what you found, and see if they'll cover some of the reshanking cost. They might prefer to do that rather than have you return it.

I think the price is pretty good on this piece and she already discounted it a nice amount from the original price.

@TechieTechie I cannot say if the quote is reasonable or not (sounds like it might be) but if you love it keep it and fix it as it might be hard to replace. Antiques aren't always easy to find. However if you don't love it then it isn't worth it. I would figure the price all in and see what your gut tells you. I think for a platinum piece with diamonds while it might not be the deal you thought it was it still might be a good enough deal if you love it.

 

[elizat]

I got a quote of about 300 to reshank a white gold ring last year and they told me it would end up a bit oval, not perfectly round. That ring was only a few years old and had no cracks so what they quoted you may be reasonable. To be honest with all of those issues if it were me I'd probably send it back and keep looking, sounds like the metal has already been weakened quite a bit.

Agree. And the chipped stones should have been mentioned in the listing, or at least on the appraisal on the website if not on the listing . I wouldn’t put the money in it unless you adore it.

And cracks, abraded girdles, etc. are not unusual in antique pieces, but they should be disclosed.

If Boston, I’m just guessing Brodney, Shreve or Small Pleasures? That’s where I went shopping when we where in Boston for antique pieces last fall. I think if either, the costs will be higher there.

 

[MollyMalone]

$650 doesn't seem outrageous to me, especially since that isn't only for the re-shanking and to your size (so will involve more than a trifling amount of platinum); the price includes repairing the 2 cracks**.

But let me ask this: will they be using a laser welder? Well-built, well-designed laser welder set-ups are quite an investment for a "bench" to make, e.g., these Orion tabletop models are $18,000 and $21,000:
https://www.kassoy.com/soldering-and-welding/Orion-Jewelry-Laser-Welder.asp
Maintaining a laser welder ain't cheap, and additional training is required for a person to become adept with using one. Bottom line: you'll always pay more for laser welding.

But for this kind of work, I'd only want a bench with a laser welder.

** Grace didn't have independent appraiser David Atlas do a Qualitative Pre-Sale Report on this particular piece & there is no mention of the cracks in the JbG listing. So I'd expect her to assume the cost of fixing those -- if you love the ring enough to keep it and re-shank it.

 

[TechieTechie]

All,

Thanks for the feedback. This is my first foray into vintage pieces, so I have no idea what's reasonable.

I went to Barkamian's in Framingham for the quote. But perhaps I should ask around just to make sure it's reasonable and they are using a laser welder. I don't mind paying the right price for quality work, but I don't want to be taken to the bank, either

Grace did have Atlas do a pre-sale report, but it came back the same day she shipped it out to me....so I never saw it. And at the price, I figured it was a good buy. I will, however, run the findings past her before I decide to keep it.

I do find myself staring at it a lot (in a good way). It sparkles like crazy, it's unusual looking, has a past (jeweler estimates it's from the 20s) and because it sits so low, it's very easy to wear. I wonder if I will like it more than the honking piece I have on order, because it's low maintenance (repair notwithstanding).

Thanks again for all the feedback.

Techie

 

[MollyMalone]

You might also confer with, and get a price quote from, Hagop Matosssian of Bostonian Jewelers, downtown on Washington Street:
https://www.hagopmatossian.com/
https://www.bostonianjewelers.com/jewelry-repair-restoration.html
https://www.yelp.com/biz/bostonian-jewelers-and-manufacturers-boston

A dear friend of mine who lives in Newton was quite pleased with Bostonian's restoration of a sapphire & diamond ring she'd inherited. And this PSer had a very positive experience too; post #6 in this thread is where she describes her consultation with Mr. Matossian; further down, you'll see pics of his handiwork:
https://www.pricescope.com/communit...heirloom-sapphire-rings-pics-attached.226562/

ETA I'm tagging @rockysalamander (who lives, I think, in the Boston metro area & is very knowledgeable about jewelry design-repairs) in the hope she can offer you additional suggestions-feedback.

 

[Tekate]

I'm going to tag @mrs-b as she lives outside Boston and she might know someone, although most of her pieces are modern but she is very knowledgeable about jewelry.

You might also confer with, and get a price quote from, Hagop Matosssian of Bostonian Jewelers, downtown on Washington Street:
https://www.hagopmatossian.com/
https://www.bostonianjewelers.com/jewelry-repair-restoration.html
https://www.yelp.com/biz/bostonian-jewelers-and-manufacturers-boston

A dear friend of mine who lives in Newton was quite pleased with Bostonian's restoration of a sapphire & diamond ring she'd inherited. And this PSer had a very positive experience too; post #6 in this thread is where she describes her consultation with Mr. Matossian; further down, you'll see pics of his handiwork:
https://www.pricescope.com/communit...heirloom-sapphire-rings-pics-attached.226562/

ETA I'm tagging @rockysalamander (who lives, I think, in the Boston metro area & is very knowledgeable about jewelry design-repairs) in the hope she can offer you additional suggestions-feedback.

 

[mrs-b]

I'm thinking Shreve Crump and Low could fix it, but they're super high end, so I'm guessing their prices will be top dollar.

On the other hand...@rockysalamander lives in Boston??

 

[PintoBean]

Hi PSers....

From the 'coming attractions' thread, some folks know I've been ring shopping. I have an antique JGB piece out on 'loan' (aka the return period). I love the style, but it needs resized up 3.25 sizes to a size 10 (which I knew going in).


https://www.jewelsbygrace.com/1-00ctw-vintage-double-row-baguette-and-diamond-band

I took it to a well known Boston jeweler to get a quote on the resizing, and I admit, I was surprised. Not terribly surprised that the ring is from the 20s (due to the PLAT stamping) and that they wanted to reshank it (given the size changed). I was really surprised that:

1. Two of the stones are chipped
2. The setting, on both sides of the face, is cracked (the bench said it was probably due a previous resizing)
3. They wanted $650 to re-shank and fix the cracks.

I guess, my question to PSers are:

1. Is this (setting crack and stone chipping) terribly uncommon in older rings?
2. Is this a normal price for re-shanking?

I really do like the setting, but the cost to reshank and fix the crack is 1/2 what I paid for the ring. Just don't know if it's worth it.

Thanks in advance...

Techie

If you're not stuck on this piece being vintage, why not get a quote from a vendor on recreating it in your size? See if it saves you money versus reshanking.

 

[arkieb1]

Really tiny chips in girdles in Antique stones is VERY common and frequently if it's minor ie poses no risk to the stones breaking not disclosed. The cracked metal can happen from things like air bubbles when the ring is made, poor initial construction, too much resizing in the past, or it's simply worn really thin from decades of love and wear.... and so on.

 

[Karl_K]

I would not resize that ring up that much.
The top part of the ring where all the stones are is going to be flattened out significantly.
Everything is going to be out of place to cause future issues and it already has cracks.

 

[AMRose]

Hi PSers....

From the 'coming attractions' thread, some folks know I've been ring shopping. I have an antique JGB piece out on 'loan' (aka the return period). I love the style, but it needs resized up 3.25 sizes to a size 10 (which I knew going in).


https://www.jewelsbygrace.com/1-00ctw-vintage-double-row-baguette-and-diamond-band

I took it to a well known Boston jeweler to get a quote on the resizing, and I admit, I was surprised. Not terribly surprised that the ring is from the 20s (due to the PLAT stamping) and that they wanted to reshank it (given the size changed). I was really surprised that:

1. Two of the stones are chipped
2. The setting, on both sides of the face, is cracked (the bench said it was probably due a previous resizing)
3. They wanted $650 to re-shank and fix the cracks.

I guess, my question to PSers are:

1. Is this (setting crack and stone chipping) terribly uncommon in older rings?
2. Is this a normal price for re-shanking?

I really do like the setting, but the cost to reshank and fix the crack is 1/2 what I paid for the ring. Just don't know if it's worth it.

Thanks in advance...

Techie

Techie - wondering what your resolution was. Did you keep or return the item? Did the vendor offer any repair assistance?