Question about the cost of 5 pointers vs 1-1/2 pointers

[gups]

Hi everyone - I am currently looking at engagement ring options. I had posted in an earlier thread about an oval sapphire halo ring, but am now leaning towards a different direction.

I have a fancy cut trilliant blue sapphire in mind which is 1.5 ct with the following dimensions 7.70 mm x 6.30 mm x 4.3mm. I am buying the stone separately and plan on having it set by a jeweler.

I have a ring concept, and am currently polling various vendors for quotes. One vendor quoted me a price of $1250, which includes the 14k band, setting the stone, and 12 5 pointers (total diamond carat weight 0.60 cttw | G color, VS quality round brilliant diamonds) in a halo around the stone.

However, he now thinks the stones may be too big for my stone and is suggesting that I go with either 17 1.5mm stones or 14 2mm stones. From what I understand, 1.5mm stones are 0.015 cttw and 2mm stones are 0.03 cttw.

- In the first scenario, the total diamond cttw would be 0.26 ct
- In the second scenario, the total diamond cttw would be 0.42 ct

I am assuming that the total price for the ring in both these cases should be lower than the $1250 quote that he gave me, since that was premised on 12 5 pointers. However, he hasn't mentioned anything about a lower price, and I wanted to have some color on the question before broaching the topic with him.

How much of a lower price should I expect? Any input would be much appreciated!

 

[chrono]

I doubt you will see much of a price difference because most of that cost is the labour to set each stone individually.

 

[gups]

Thanks, Chrono. So, I guess the labor cancels out any price savings in the stones themselves? Didn't realize or expect that, but good to know.

 

[iLander]

Chrono is right. Melee is pretty cheap, and the majority of cost in these types of settings is gold and labor.

 

[gups]

Thank you, iLander!

 

[gups]

After doing some *very* preliminary research, it's my understanding the VS F-G color melee (round brilliant, NOT single cut) can be had for around $700-$800 per carat. So, half a carat should be in the $350-$400 range.

Any approximation of how much one would ascribe to the labor cost to setting a simple 20 diamond halo, assuming the price of the melee above? Just trying to get an idea of the cost drivers, as the estimates I am getting are somewhat all over the map. Thank you!

 

[chrono]

Labour cost will vary from place to place, but I think it might average $50 per stone? Not really sure.

 

[gups]

Thanks, Chrono!

In that case, the jeweler who gave me a quote of $1300 for a ring with a 64 diamond melee (halo and pave - 0.3 cttw) in 14K white gold must be taking a HUGE loss

May be it's an exercise in futility to try and deconstruct the cost in this manner. I have received quotes from PS recommended jewelers which have varied greatly for the same design. I guess each one has their own rationale for the calculus involved.

 

[chrono]

Some places will cast the setting with the melees in place. This method is very cheap but the end result looks blob-by. If the melees are individually set in place, the end result looks good (even looking prongs and evenly set melees) but the total cost will be higher.

 

[katharath]

You will most definitely find huge variations in pricing. This is just the way it is. I would recommend deciding on exactly what you want, and then approaching the vendors you like, asking each for a quote, and then going with whomever you like best and offers a price you're comfortable with.

This is a link to a blog post from Yvonne Raley, it's specifically about diamonds and halo projects. She provides a lot of very helpful info here, you might want to have a look. It sounds like you've already done a lot of researching, but you might still find something helpful here. Incidentally - her diamond pricing is higher than what you quoted above, and I can't really speak much to that (my knowledge is in CS, not diamonds). However Yvonne is generally well priced, I find her setting prices to be very reasonable. She has also told me that she can sometimes/often source diamonds for less, but that she quotes the high end for when she isn't able to get them at lower pricing. (She is based in New York - doesn't live there but works there - so I know that she has great access to diamonds).

http://cecileraleydesigns.blogspot.com/2015/07/designing-halos-with-melee-gems.html?m=1