Question about fabrication of an eternity band

[bgray]

I am/was planning to buy 12 to 14 stones for an eternity band project. I am looking at.30.31 and I have just been deciding about what color stone to go with and trying to get a sense of the cost to fabricate. I am looking for a Leon Mege quality band-hand made. Each stone would be set in a platinum milgrained hexagonal box with 4 prongs and each box would abut the next. I was recently told by one jeweler whom I asked for an estimate that they "would not make the band unless they provided the stones for several reasons, among which the stones would need to be sourced after the setting is made and need to be exactly the right size and proportion." I had hoped to buy the stones myself simply because I wanted AGSO /ACA quality stones. I want to select each stone individually and take them to LM or someone else to then make the band. What do you all think about the information I was given? I dont want to buy the stones and then have people refuse to make the band for that same reason--if its legit.

 

[serenitydiamonds]

Date: 1/5/2010 2:18:30 PM
Author:bgray
I am/was planning to buy 12 to 14 stones for an eternity band project. I am looking at.30.31 and I have just been deciding about what color stone to go with and trying to get a sense of the cost to fabricate. I am looking for a Leon Mege quality band-hand made. Each stone would be set in a platinum milgrained hexagonal box with 4 prongs and each box would abut the next. I was recently told by one jeweler whom I asked for an estimate that they ''would not make the band unless they provided the stones for several reasons, among which the stones would need to be sourced after the setting is made and need to be exactly the right size and proportion.'' I had hoped to buy the stones myself simply because I wanted AGSO /ACA quality stones. I want to select each stone individually and take them to LM or someone else to then make the band. What do you all think about the information I was given? I dont want to buy the stones and then have people refuse to make the band for that same reason--if its legit.

As long as you select the stones properly I wouldn''t see why you would have to use a particular jeweler''s stones.

--Joshua

 

[bgray]

Date: 1/5/2010 2:28:43 PM
Author: serenitydiamonds

Date: 1/5/2010 2:18:30 PM

Author:bgray

I am/was planning to buy 12 to 14 stones for an eternity band project. I am looking at.30.31 and I have just been deciding about what color stone to go with and trying to get a sense of the cost to fabricate. I am looking for a Leon Mege quality band-hand made. Each stone would be set in a platinum milgrained hexagonal box with 4 prongs and each box would abut the next. I was recently told by one jeweler whom I asked for an estimate that they ''would not make the band unless they provided the stones for several reasons, among which the stones would need to be sourced after the setting is made and need to be exactly the right size and proportion.'' I had hoped to buy the stones myself simply because I wanted AGSO /ACA quality stones. I want to select each stone individually and take them to LM or someone else to then make the band. What do you all think about the information I was given? I dont want to buy the stones and then have people refuse to make the band for that same reason--if its legit.

As long as you select the stones properly I wouldn''t see why you would have to use a particular jeweler''s stones.


--Joshua

By "properly" do you mean close in diameter?

 

[emeraldlover1]

Date: 1/5/2010 2:33:49 PM
Author: bgray

Date: 1/5/2010 2:28:43 PM
Author: serenitydiamonds

Date: 1/5/2010 2:18:30 PM

Author:bgray

I am/was planning to buy 12 to 14 stones for an eternity band project. I am looking at.30.31 and I have just been deciding about what color stone to go with and trying to get a sense of the cost to fabricate. I am looking for a Leon Mege quality band-hand made. Each stone would be set in a platinum milgrained hexagonal box with 4 prongs and each box would abut the next. I was recently told by one jeweler whom I asked for an estimate that they ''would not make the band unless they provided the stones for several reasons, among which the stones would need to be sourced after the setting is made and need to be exactly the right size and proportion.'' I had hoped to buy the stones myself simply because I wanted AGSO /ACA quality stones. I want to select each stone individually and take them to LM or someone else to then make the band. What do you all think about the information I was given? I dont want to buy the stones and then have people refuse to make the band for that same reason--if its legit.

As long as you select the stones properly I wouldn''t see why you would have to use a particular jeweler''s stones.


--Joshua

By ''properly'' do you mean close in diameter?

I think if you can get the right size and proportion then they should be able to make the ring for you. I''m not sure why they need to make the ring first? It seems backwards unless they are trying to accomidate the number of stones that you want to incorporate. For example, because you want a box around each stone they may have to make the setting first to find out how many stones it needs. If its hand made they may be able to approximate, but I''m not a benchman and I''m sure they have different reasons. On the other hand you may risk buying too many stones. Those are my guesses.

If its the quality of stones you are looking for and you like the jeweler would you be willing to see what they could source?

Lastly, did you decide against the Dover eternity? I loved that one.

 

[serenitydiamonds]

Date: 1/5/2010 2:33:49 PM
Author: bgray

Date: 1/5/2010 2:28:43 PM

Author: serenitydiamonds

Date: 1/5/2010 2:18:30 PM


Author:bgray


I am/was planning to buy 12 to 14 stones for an eternity band project. I am looking at.30.31 and I have just been deciding about what color stone to go with and trying to get a sense of the cost to fabricate. I am looking for a Leon Mege quality band-hand made. Each stone would be set in a platinum milgrained hexagonal box with 4 prongs and each box would abut the next. I was recently told by one jeweler whom I asked for an estimate that they ''would not make the band unless they provided the stones for several reasons, among which the stones would need to be sourced after the setting is made and need to be exactly the right size and proportion.'' I had hoped to buy the stones myself simply because I wanted AGSO /ACA quality stones. I want to select each stone individually and take them to LM or someone else to then make the band. What do you all think about the information I was given? I dont want to buy the stones and then have people refuse to make the band for that same reason--if its legit.

As long as you select the stones properly I wouldn''t see why you would have to use a particular jeweler''s stones.



--Joshua

By ''properly'' do you mean close in diameter?

Yes, plus close in color and table percentage.

--Joshua

 

[bgray]

Date: 1/5/2010 3:26:25 PM
Author: serenitydiamonds

Date: 1/5/2010 2:33:49 PM

Author: bgray

Date: 1/5/2010 2:28:43 PM


Author: serenitydiamonds

Date: 1/5/2010 2:18:30 PM



Author:bgray



I am/was planning to buy 12 to 14 stones for an eternity band project. I am looking at.30.31 and I have just been deciding about what color stone to go with and trying to get a sense of the cost to fabricate. I am looking for a Leon Mege quality band-hand made. Each stone would be set in a platinum milgrained hexagonal box with 4 prongs and each box would abut the next. I was recently told by one jeweler whom I asked for an estimate that they ''would not make the band unless they provided the stones for several reasons, among which the stones would need to be sourced after the setting is made and need to be exactly the right size and proportion.'' I had hoped to buy the stones myself simply because I wanted AGSO /ACA quality stones. I want to select each stone individually and take them to LM or someone else to then make the band. What do you all think about the information I was given? I dont want to buy the stones and then have people refuse to make the band for that same reason--if its legit.

As long as you select the stones properly I wouldn''t see why you would have to use a particular jeweler''s stones.




--Joshua

By ''properly'' do you mean close in diameter?

Yes, plus close in color and table percentage.


--Joshua

thanks--yes!

 

[Upgradable]

I think being a member of Pricescope can give rise to the multi-headed monster named "A Little Knowlege is a Dangerous Thing."

I love my diamonds, and am very particular about my jewelry, however I would never be presumptuous enough to think I know better than the jeweler I choose to work with. I feel my job is to source the best jeweler/artisan for a job, let them know what I want, and then trust them to do the job they are trusted with.

My opinion (and that''s all it is) is spend all this time and energy choosing a talented, able jeweler you trust to bring this vision of yours into being, and then let them make your ring for you.

 

[serenitydiamonds]

Date: 1/5/2010 3:32:05 PM
Author: Upgradable
I think being a member of Pricescope can give rise to the multi-headed monster named 'A Little Knowlege is a Dangerous Thing.'


I love my diamonds, and am very particular about my jewelry, however I would never be presumptuous enough to think I know better than the jeweler I choose to work with. I feel my job is to source the best jeweler/artisan for a job, let them know what I want, and then trust them to do the job they are trusted with.


My opinion (and that's all it is) is spend all this time and energy choosing a talented, able jeweler you trust to bring this vision of yours into being, and then let them make your ring for you.

I definitely agree with you, but that shouldn't force myself or other jewelers to demand to use my stones if they want to choose their own. I/We as jewelers can have the final say before setting and can adjust (ie. asking the client to choose better stones) the chosen stones if they won't work properly with our designs.

--Joshua

 

[purrfectpear]

I can tell you that until you''ve actually worn an eternity band with .30 stones, you might want to hold off on any purchases yet. I''m not saying there aren''t people who have them (there are), but they are mighty uncomfortable IMO.

2.67mm of diamond depth on each side between your fingers and that''s before the gold setting is included.

 

[Upgradable]

Date: 1/5/2010 3:34:39 PM
Author: serenitydiamonds

Date: 1/5/2010 3:32:05 PM
Author: Upgradable
I think being a member of Pricescope can give rise to the multi-headed monster named ''A Little Knowlege is a Dangerous Thing.''


I love my diamonds, and am very particular about my jewelry, however I would never be presumptuous enough to think I know better than the jeweler I choose to work with. I feel my job is to source the best jeweler/artisan for a job, let them know what I want, and then trust them to do the job they are trusted with.


My opinion (and that''s all it is) is spend all this time and energy choosing a talented, able jeweler you trust to bring this vision of yours into being, and then let them make your ring for you.

I definitely agree with you, but that shouldn''t force myself or other jewelers to demand to use my stones if they want to choose their own. I/We as jewelers can have the final say before setting and can adjust (ie. asking the client to choose better stones) the chosen stones if they won''t work properly with our designs.

--Joshua

Thank you, Josh. I DO agree with you!! There is one artisan/jeweler that immediately comes to my mind that I would love to work with, except that they insist on providing their own stones.

 

[bgray]

who else besides Leon M does fine handmade jewelry?

 

[Diamond Explorer]

bgray,

In my opinion the project you are suggesting is better evaluated once the acceptable stones are arranged and in order. Often times the diamond dealer and manufacturer need not be the same to create exceptional jewelry. I say source the stones yourself, your standards are to such a degree, that you probably can do it as well as anyone. Once the stones are in order, then contract a good custom jeweler to put them together in the perfect way. Just my thoughts.

Best of luck!

 

[Cehrabehra]

I think if you ENJOY the process of picking every stone yourself then you need to find a jeweler who will then take those stones and make something out of it - if you are only doing it to ensure they are a particular quality, I think there are people you can source from that are trustworthy.

Do you want certed or uncerted stones?

 

[bgray]

SO--does this band I am imagining need to be hand made or cast? The band would be made up of a continuous row of the milgrained boxes shaped like the connecting piece on this earring in the photo. Each heaxagonal box would have prong holding a round diamond of approximately .30.

 

[bgray]

shameless bump

 

[Michael_E]

Date: 1/8/2010 10:04:37 AM
Author: bgray
SO--does this band I am imagining need to be hand made or cast?

I would cast it from a CAD model. The reason being that it is easier, (meaning less time consuming and therefore less expensive and that seems to be a big hitter now). One benefit of doing this via CAD is that you can see exactly what the piece will look like prior to making the bulk of your commitment to the project. The other benefit of going the CAD route is that the model is exact to about .004", about the thickness of a sheet of paper. This means that all of the hex''s will be the same, they will all line up and the piece will turn out perfectly symmetrical. Making it by hand makes for a good story and in some cases produces a superior product, but in this case you wouldn''t gain anything. I think that the overall thickness of this band could be as little as 2mm, (since the diamonds would be about 3mm x .6% thick or about 1.8mm) if that is a concern.

 

[bgray]

Date: 1/8/2010 3:26:03 PM
Author: Michael_E

Date: 1/8/2010 10:04:37 AM

Author: bgray

SO--does this band I am imagining need to be hand made or cast?

I would cast it from a CAD model. The reason being that it is easier, (meaning less time consuming and therefore less expensive and that seems to be a big hitter now). One benefit of doing this via CAD is that you can see exactly what the piece will look like prior to making the bulk of your commitment to the project. The other benefit of going the CAD route is that the model is exact to about .004'', about the thickness of a sheet of paper. This means that all of the hex''s will be the same, they will all line up and the piece will turn out perfectly symmetrical. Making it by hand makes for a good story and in some cases produces a superior product, but in this case you wouldn''t gain anything. I think that the overall thickness of this band could be as little as 2mm, (since the diamonds would be about 3mm x .6% thick or about 1.8mm) if that is a concern.

actually .30 diamonds are about 4.2mm--are you meaning thick up and down?

 

[Diamond Explorer]

I think a CAD model for this type of project is appropriate, but certainly not the only way to go.

A craftsman could also form the piece from a rougher hand built wax, and then work the details directly into the metal by hand. Doing this would also work harden the piece making stronger than a fresh cast.

Building the piece from rolled stock components is also a possibility, but it can be hard to find someone who actually knows how to work like that.

 

[purrfectpear]

.30 diamonds are just shy of 3mm in depth (that''s measured from the top of the table down to the culet point) roughly 2.67mm.

So, in between each finger, you would have [2.67mm] of diamond separating your fingers from coming together plus whatever the additional gold might add (if any). []-----[]

 

[Dreamer_D]

Mark Morrell and BGD come to mind as other vendors whom I might trust to create a wonderful and fluid handmade piece.

Have you tried on a band with this size diamonds?

 

[Michael_E]

Date: 1/8/2010 5:55:36 PM
Author: purrfectpear
.30 diamonds are just shy of 3mm in depth (that''s measured from the top of the table down to the culet point) roughly 2.67mm.

You''ve got me there. I was thinking 3mm and not .3 carat. That''s going to be too deep to wear without some discomfort I''m afraid.

 

[bgray]

3mm is not that deep? i am confused

 

[purrfectpear]

It''s deep when you consider it in between your fingers. You know how when you put your hand up and you can hold your fingers together? You won''t be doing that with an eternity band of that size. Your ring finger will always have some gap between your middle and your pinkie. Some people can get used to that, and some find it uncomfortable. I think you need to try one on first. You might be one who it doesn''t bother.

 

[Dreamer_D]

Try some on... and take pictures

 

[Michael_E]

Date: 1/8/2010 10:53:09 PM
Author: bgray
3mm is not that deep? i am confused

Sorry, your confusion is my fault. I had thought that you wanted to use 3mm diameter diamonds, which are about .1 carats each. Your wanting to use .3 carat diamonds which are about 4.25mm in diameter means that you will need a band thickness of about 3mm in order to keep the diamonds from poking your fingers. This thickness coupled with the upper edge of your band being square and millgrained would make for a very uncomfortable ring, since that upper edge would probably feel a bit like a knife if you set your hand down in a way that puts pressure sideways on your fingers. Most bands which are very thick are also strongly curved on their upper edge in order to increase the comfort of the wearer. I would suggest that you have a plain, square edged band of this thickness made up in something cheap like silver or copper first. Notch it in a few places and maybe millgrain it as well, to simulate the ring you want and just wear it around for a while. You should be able to tell within a day if its tolerable or not. If a "picture is worth a thousand words", a "test is worth a thousand bucks"...in this case it''s worth a LOT more if you find out the ring doesn''t feel right.

 

[bgray]

Date: 1/9/2010 12:58:16 AM
Author: Michael_E

Date: 1/8/2010 10:53:09 PM

Author: bgray

3mm is not that deep? i am confused

Sorry, your confusion is my fault. I had thought that you wanted to use 3mm diameter diamonds, which are about .1 carats each. Your wanting to use .3 carat diamonds which are about 4.25mm in diameter means that you will need a band thickness of about 3mm in order to keep the diamonds from poking your fingers. This thickness coupled with the upper edge of your band being square and millgrained would make for a very uncomfortable ring, since that upper edge would probably feel a bit like a knife if you set your hand down in a way that puts pressure sideways on your fingers. Most bands which are very thick are also strongly curved on their upper edge in order to increase the comfort of the wearer. I would suggest that you have a plain, square edged band of this thickness made up in something cheap like silver or copper first. Notch it in a few places and maybe millgrain it as well, to simulate the ring you want and just wear it around for a while. You should be able to tell within a day if its tolerable or not. If a ''picture is worth a thousand words'', a ''test is worth a thousand bucks''...in this case it''s worth a LOT more if you find out the ring doesn''t feel right.

ahhhhhhh. okay. i think the largest band i have tried was made up of .25 caraters.........but they were prong set as most are. the largest i have tried bezel set were rounds and they were .16. So how small would I have to go to a point where you think it would be comfortable?

 

[Dreamer_D]

Date: 1/9/2010 12:58:16 AM
Author: Michael_E

Date: 1/8/2010 10:53:09 PM
Author: bgray
3mm is not that deep? i am confused

Sorry, your confusion is my fault. I had thought that you wanted to use 3mm diameter diamonds, which are about .1 carats each. Your wanting to use .3 carat diamonds which are about 4.25mm in diameter means that you will need a band thickness of about 3mm in order to keep the diamonds from poking your fingers. This thickness coupled with the upper edge of your band being square and millgrained would make for a very uncomfortable ring, since that upper edge would probably feel a bit like a knife if you set your hand down in a way that puts pressure sideways on your fingers. Most bands which are very thick are also strongly curved on their upper edge in order to increase the comfort of the wearer. I would suggest that you have a plain, square edged band of this thickness made up in something cheap like silver or copper first. Notch it in a few places and maybe millgrain it as well, to simulate the ring you want and just wear it around for a while. You should be able to tell within a day if its tolerable or not. If a ''picture is worth a thousand words'', a ''test is worth a thousand bucks''...in this case it''s worth a LOT more if you find out the ring doesn''t feel right.

This isa very smart idea!