Prong setting height - actually measurments??

[Byron03]

Hi all,

I am in the process of having my engagment ring made up by a jeweller who is allowing me to have a lot of input in the process. However, he is asking me questions that I have never even thought about. Specifically I need help with the height of the prong setting in actual measurements - mm. I don't want it to sit too high, is there a standard size that is most common? I know it comes down to a personal preference, but what height size appeals to most? Or what height would most jewellers set it if they were having it as floor stock to sell, so that it would appeal to most?

I have read through previous forums about sitting it higher will make it look larger etc, so I don't want it reallly low, however want it to not be easily knocked/damaged either. A happy medium.

To give you an idea of the ring, it is a brilliant cut .9 carat, set in a claw set band - 1.9-2mm. I want something quite delicate looking and have asked him to make the prong thickness as small as possible with rounded edges. The band itself will be a comfort fit, with rounded off edges as well, as opposed to squared (he said this won't be as sharp, but will still have the squared look) - All things I had no idea that I would be needing to decide!! now the last part is the prong height. If you have any other comments on what I have decided on, please let me know as I am just guessing at the moment and can still change it.

Thanks

 

[Gypsy]

please post pics of the style of setting. And also please post depth of your diamond.

 

[Byron03]

Depth is 60.1%
Table is 57%
and dimensions are 6.3mm -6.27 x 3.78mm
Attached is the photo that I showed the jeweller of what I am after

 

[drk14]

What ring size are you ordering? And do you want the proportions to be similar to your inspiration picture (for example, the slope of the cathedral shoulders)?

 

[Gypsy]

This does not fill me with confidence. He knows what your stone's depth is. He has the picture and he can't figure it out himself? Who is this person you are using and why are you using them.

Please read this: [URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/custom-jewelry-work-cad-and-cast-psa.175834/#post-3202426#p3202426']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/custom-jewelry-work-cad-and-cast-psa.175834/#post-3202426#p3202426[/URL]

 

[Byron03]

ring size is approximately 3.5 - 4 US. Size G European. Yes I would be happy if the ring measurements turned out similar to that in the picture.

Thanks for your help!

 

[drk14]

ring size is approximately 3.5 - 4 US. Size G European. Yes I would be happy if the ring measurements turned out similar to that in the picture.

So, it will not be possible to make a ring that looks exactly like in the picture, because if the ring in the picture were a size G (14.5-mm inner diameter), then the pictured diamond would only have a diameter of 5.1 mm. Your diamond is almost 25% larger than the pictured diamond, so you (or your jeweler) will have to make some decisions about how to modify the proportions of the setting in order to fit a larger diamond.

For example, if keeping the distance from the top of the finger to the top of the diamond the same as in the picture, then the prongs must be more spread apart, and the cathedral shoulders must either be at a steeper angle, or connect to a lower point on the head (because your diamond will be wider). If this is the option you want, I'm estimating that the the distance from the top of the finger to the top of the diamond should be about 6.4mm.

Conversely, if you want the slopes and proportions of the head to match what is in the picture, then you must set the diamond higher, to accommodate the larger diameter of your stone. If this is the option you want, I'm estimating that the the distance from the top of the finger to the top of the diamond should be about 7.9mm.

Unfortunately, you will not be able to preserve exactly the shapes/angles of both the prongs and the cathedral shoulders compared to the pictured ring. With the size diamond you have, you could only replicate the pictured ring exactly if you make it a size P!

 

[Byron03]

WOW drk14!!! you are so helpful. That really gives me a much better understanding, I really appreciate it. I felt very lost when I was talking to the jeweller and had never thought about the height before.

The reason the jeweller isn't just making it without my input is becuase he understands that I enjoy being involved in the process. He could make it without my involvement, however this way it makes it even more personal.

 

[Gypsy]

Who are you working with, and why?

 

[Byron03]

Hi Gypsy a jeweller that my fiance chose. Why - because he felt comfortable with them. I appreciate your feedback in trying to help, however it was more upsetting than helpful. I think once its clear that someone has already made a decision, there is no point in telling them it is wrong when it is clearly to late.

 

[Gypsy]

It's never too late, even when a custom piece is done it can be redone. And you didn't tell me that the jeweler decision is final. And my job here isn't to make you feel better. It's to help you make better decisions and let you know when there are red flags. There are some here.

Are they doing a CAD for you? Cause I wouldn't proceed without one.

If they are doing a CAD tell them to give you the best interpretation they can, and we can help you tweak it.

If they aren't doing a CAD, I hope they are at least doing a wax.

If they aren't doing a wax... I would look somewhere else and explain to your fiance why.

 

[drk14]

And my job here isn't to make you feel better. It's to help you make better decisions and let you know when there are red flags.

Gypsy with the tough love!

Byron, don't worry, Gypsy is one of the foremost experts on this forum, and with her advice, you'll be in good hands. She helps tons of people on here every day. Her questions above are good ones, and I'm interested to hear your answers.

 

[quaddio]

Hi OP,

I don't think it's too late if you have concerns about your jeweler's ability to execute. Better to have an open and honest discussion before the ring is made than after. If I were you I'd ask the jeweler to see samples of rings they have manufactured as well as checking on refund/return policies.

Can you ask the jeweler for a recommendation on height for the setting? You'd think any manufacturing jeweler would have a range they would recommend. It seems like a terrible question to ask and far too specific for a consumer decision.

I appreciate you're feeling concerned given the advice you've received and encourage you to listen to your instincts - you posted here for a reason. Don't let your story turn into one of the countless "not happy with custom project" thread spread all over these boards.

Good luck!

 

[TC1987]

The picture I attached shows what happens when the stone size in increased. There are princess, but same thing happens with rounds.

EITHER the larger stone winds up set in very tall prongs, as shown. OF the jeweler has to increase the gap between the tow cathedral sides, in order to accommodate a wider head for a larger stone.

If you want yours as low as that picture you posted, then the jeweler needs make the space where the head attaches wide enough for the diameter of head that your stone needs.

 

[drk14]

If they aren't doing a wax... I would look somewhere else and explain to your fiance why.

There's also the possibility that the jeweler is making a hand-forged ring without casting, in which case the lack of CAD or wax would be expected, and not a cause for concern.

And Quaddio is right, there have been many custom projects with issues. On the other hand, it is also possible that Byron has found a perfectly capable artisan to work with (whose only deficiency may be in the area of customer communication/education).

So, Byron, the more information you can provide, the more certain we can be that your project will be a success.