Princess Diamond for Engagement Ring - GIA Cut

[Lokolo]

Hi,
So I have been browsing a few shops and asked about, but now am actually starting to look at diamonds.
I know I am looking at 0.9+, D/E, VS1/2. But I am looking for the best possible cut.

Looking on a couple of diamond selling websites, I cannot seem to get the cut defined. I have even downloaded a GIA report (1253057862) for one and again, this doesn't show the cut.

- From what I have read, it seems only round diamonds get the cut quality on the reports. Is this correct?
- How do I determine the relevant cut quality, for example, the diamond above has 74% across and 67.6% height. I assume 100%/100% would mean an Ideal cut. But I have no idea what sort of cut I am looking at when it comes to the %s. Can anyone explain.

Any other advice is welcome, trying to read as much as I can but the questions above are the ones I cannot find the answers to.

Edit - I have seen https://www.pricescope.com/journal/ags-laboratories-diamond-cut-grading-princess-cut does answer the first question. But I cannot now work out the sort of cut quality from what GIA DOES provide.

Edit2 - I am based in the UK, rather than US if that makes a difference

 

[ratatat]

If you’re truly looking for the best possible cut I would suggest an AGS0 or better still either a Whiteflash A cut Above or a Brian Gavin signature princess, but they come with a premium. Is there a reason you’re looking at such high colours? GIA do not give cut grades on princess stones. What is your budget?

 

[Lokolo]

Thanks for your response. When I was being shown some I was shown D-G, but with similar cut and clarity and to me it did make quite a bit of difference to my eye.

Having had some more exploring I can look at the symmetry and an Excellent rating is what I need to go for.

My budget is around £6k for the diamond.

 

[Katie Homuth]

Sounds like you are on the right track! Cut is king and should be the most important factor in any diamond purchase. Just to give you a quick run down on the princess cuts.

Technically, GIA does not have a cut standard or class for princess cuts. AGS will evaluate the diamonds proportions as well as the light return, scintillation and overall performance. Based on many factors, they actually provide you with a cut class. GIA diamonds will be harder to locate as you will need to put more focus into finding great proportions. AGS, takes a lot of the guess work out of things.

Secondly, just a rule of thumb, you never want to see the table percentage higher than the depth. This is a sure indicator of light leakage.

If you find an ideal cut diamond, although the price may be higher than you are seeing with the GIA diamonds, you are getting a much better performing diamond. Therefore, you could go down a little on your color and clarity ratings as the ideal cuts have more light return. With more light return, comes more sparkle. When you are viewing a poorly or commercially cut diamond, the color is more apparent to the naked eye due to the amount of light leakage. Allowing you to see more of the diamonds true color. Diamonds are graded from the pavilion side down (they lay it on the table and view it through the pointed end of the diamond). With an ideal cut diamond, the amount of light return basically drowns out the color with brilliance! Even an ideal cut, AGS 0 in an I color will face up super white! Unless, you want the higher combination, it's definitely something to look into. Good luck on your search! Here is a link that may help: https://www.pricescope.com/wiki/diamonds/princess-cut-diamond

 

[rockysalamander]

Just checking, but are you 100% that your GF wants a princess cut. They are really polarizing in shape preference.

On budget, if you bought from the US, what would be the amount we should use? 6000 UK lbs = $7891 USD, but I know there are taxes/import charges. I used $7000 US for the stones below, but educate this American on taxes.

These are nicely cut with pretty faceting. You'd need to request an ASET image from JamesAllen (they will give you 3/email). I'm looking for movement accross the faceting and then no facet is always off or on (Example of what to avoid...https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/princess-cut/1.03-carat-g-color-vs2-clarity-sku-2134551; see how stable the facets look in the X?). Don't worry too much about the degree of brightness you seen in the JA videos, they are a bit inconsistent in how much light is projected through the front.

https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/princess-cut/1.04-carat-f-color-vvs2-clarity-sku-3448759
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/princess-cut/1.01-carat-g-color-vs2-clarity-sku-2055586 {different flavor of princess with fewer but larger facets)
https://www.jamesallen.com/loose-diamonds/princess-cut/1.08-carat-i-color-vvs2-clarity-sku-3473312 {If you can get behind an I color}
https://www.whiteflash.com/loose-diamonds/princess-cut-loose-diamond-3695595.htm
https://www.whiteflash.com/loose-diamonds/princess-cut-loose-diamond-3695586.htm

Here's a relevant thread where we all made the same suggestion as @ratatat . Princess cuts are a PITA to select and very hard to find.
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/please-help-me-choose-a-princess-cut-diamond.234590/

 

[Lokolo]

Wow, those are brilliant replies. Thank you very much.

The diamond shape is definitely going to be a princess cut. Without that, there will be no engagement. It's a shame that they are one of the more difficult cuts!

In the UK we have a tax of 20% which is unfortunate. My partner does have family based in Florida so I can always get it from the US. Not sure if the James Allen includes all US taxes, but if so, the $7000 is around about my budget and the first one you posted (1.04) actually does look excellent value.

It's good to know the AGS0 will still be sparkly and white down to an I. That does give me some room on the colour. It's a shame ASG is US based, but I can always get it over there with all the information available on a certificate.

 

[rockysalamander]

Great. From JA, US taxes only apply if shipped to New York or Maryland in the US. You'll have to sort out how to deal with customs when you re-enter the UK...we can't advise you on that as it might be viewed as tax fraud. If the diamond/ring is sent directly to the UK, you would pay UK taxes to FedEx while in transit from the US to UK per the JA customer service rep. I just asked.

I'm picking stones based on faceting and by eyes. But, the best way to confirm perform if you can't see them in person is to get an ASET image from the vendor. With JA, put your top 3 choices on hold (no cost via their website). Request ASET images on each, then post them here. Good Princess cuts are few and far between and you don't want them scooped by a lurker who is also poking around.

AGS0 is a way for you to narrow the field of stones to those that have good proportions and should have good performance. But, your eyes and an ASET will be how you can be assured of performance. The ASET will show you about light return and that is what you want to have measured.

For the setting, if the metal is yellow, unplated white gold (palladium white gold) or rose gold -- you'll detect less color in a diamond. Nevertheless, the prongs should be white metal. You can also look for a setting with a decorative gallery or cross-bar (examples below) or halo.

https://www.jamesallen.com/engageme...e-edge-lotus-basket-engagement-ring-item-9305

https://www.jamesallen.com/engageme...22mm-pave-diamond-engagement-ring-item-226402

https://www.jamesallen.com/engageme...nd-engagement-ring-princess-center-item-17433 {the cut corners on this halo make it more wearable and attractive then a fully pointy one)