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Porosity issues common in rose gold?

Siamese Kitty

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Feb 3, 2006
Messages
909
Hi All!

I got engaged to my wonderful new fiancé last week with the most gorgeous ring ever. It is an 18K rose gold solitaire with 18K white gold head from a well-respected PS vendor. Prior to shipping the ring, my fiancé told me it had been flagged for porosity issues and had to be recast. Two days later it went out and he proposed a day after that. In the span of a day or two, little black dots and bubbles/holes are popping up on both the shank and head. It literally looks "pocked" in some areas. In other areas the rose color looks striated and uneven. It is absolutely heartbreaking to see this happen to my beautiful ring. I'm really saddened at the prospect of not having the ring my fiancé proposed with and likely not having a ring at all for a long stretch of time. (First world problems I know-just kind of upset.:/)

I recommended this vendor to him and I have purchased a ton of jewelry from them over the course of ten years with no issues. I feel like they will make it right so out of fairness we want to try to work through this with them first instead of creating a preemptive stink. That said, I do have concerns about asking them to redo this ring. This is supposedly the second iteration with the exact same issue. So my question is, is there an inherent complication with rose gold that makes it more difficult than other alloys to cast and/or more prone to porosity? I have done some internet research and it looks like this could be the case. Also, would switching to a 14K alloy give me a better chance of not running into this again? I wondered if anyone had some insight into what I could maybe do differently this time or request in order to have a better outcome. I absolutely love the rose gold and want to keep this element of the ring.

As a side question, is porosity something that will continue to progress? Both my fiancé and I feel like we are noticing more issues every time we look at the ring.:(

Thank you in advance!
SK
 

totallyfree

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Aug 18, 2013
Messages
198
Not an expert at all, but have no issues with my LM rose gold ring (which is pre-loved, and I believe has been in its present form since 2014/15...)

After two chances I two would be reluctant to continue with this jeweller. I wonder if it's time to ask for a refund...?
 

PintoBean

Ideal_Rock
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TALK to them. Find out what your options are.
 

Karl_K

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Yes rose gold is more prone to porosity and extra care has to be taken when casting it.
If they are mixing the alloy themselves then extreme care must be taken on the measurements as well as selecting a supplier.
The casting material supplier changes the recipe slightly and all your always worked processes can go out the window.
Many goldsmiths will not work with rose gold because it is so picky and sometimes you do everything right and it still comes out bad.
 

Siamese Kitty

Brilliant_Rock
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Feb 3, 2006
Messages
909
TF, PB, KK, thank you for your responses! Yes, we are absolutely going to talk through the options with them. I guess I am wondering if there was anything in particular I should ask for (14k vs 18k, a different alloy, etc) that could reduce the chance of this happening again. We really do want to give the company at least one more chance because of the successful history I've had with them. Although maybe I should be looking into someone who specializes in rose gold. I have an I colored diamond and am the most color sensitive person I know. Set in that color gold, I hardly notice a tint at all. It's perfect. Well, except for the obvious...:)

NB I'm attaching a photo of the worst area.

DSC_0238.JPG
 

Mrs2Ouch

Rough_Rock
Joined
Dec 28, 2014
Messages
71
That is a bummer. I only wear rose gold and have 10k-18k and have never seen this. I hope they fix it for you. That is a beautiful solitaire.
 

Victor Canera

Shiny_Rock
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Oct 8, 2010
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Rose gold is definitely a challenge to work with.

A lot of times if care isn’t taken in the way the is quenched, cracks can develop in the metal. It can even shatter or crumble off. I’ve seen this happen in real life over 20 years ago…sigh…

The reason is because, most of the time, it’s the copper alloying that gives it the rose gold color. BUT, a high percentage of rose gold causes a type of crystallization with gold if it’s not quenched properly.

http://riograndeblog.com/eddies-tips-challenge-working-rose-gold/

The porosity can technically be fixed with some laser welding if it’s not too bad.

Good luck
 

Siamese Kitty

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Feb 3, 2006
Messages
909
Thank you, Victor. I really appreciate you weighing in!
 

Siamese Kitty

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Feb 3, 2006
Messages
909
That is a bummer. I only wear rose gold and have 10k-18k and have never seen this. I hope they fix it for you. That is a beautiful solitaire.
Thank you, Mrs2Ouch. The ring is unbelievably gorgeous. I hope there's a way to fix it.
 

Siamese Kitty

Brilliant_Rock
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Feb 3, 2006
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909
Victor, also would you say you've had better luck with a particular alloy over another?
 

Victor Canera

Shiny_Rock
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Victor, also would you say you've had better luck with a particular alloy over another?

Reducing the percentage of copper usually gets rid of cracking or crumbling problems. The downside is that you lose the coppery, rose gold color of the metal at that point.

Looking at your ring though, I'm not sure it has to do with copper crystallization with gold. It just seems that the casting wasn't done nicely.

If possible, I'd recommend your vendor contact PM West here in L.A. They sell alloys and solder that jewelers use. https://www.preciousmetalswest.com/gold-casting-grains/ I'm not sure if he can adjust his metal mix or not but it might be worth a shot. They're super friendly and can give great advice to your vendor (if needed).
Trial and error over the years usually gets you to a good spot.

Good luck
 

Siamese Kitty

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Feb 3, 2006
Messages
909
Wow! Thank you so much for this information. I really appreciate your feedback!
 
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