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Please help with Zircon Issue

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simplysplendid

Brilliant_Rock
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Hi,

I purchased a beautiful round concave cut windex blue zircon. It was gorgeous and I send it for setting. However, the jeweler (I must say, not exactly a gem expert) says that there is a crack/feather at the pavillion and another at the girdle which rises up to the table (almost). She is concerned that the one near the girdle increases the risk of breaking the zircon during setting.

I wrote to the gem cutter and I was told that these are "minor veils" seen under magnification and is commonly found in zircon and many other gemstones. According to him, it should pose no durability issues and that it is my jeweler who is unfamiliar with zircons and is afraid to accept the task of setting.

Anyone can shed any light on what these minor "veils" are? Could he have meant "veins"? Even if so, what are "veins". Totallly clueless and I need to decide whether to keep this zircon or not. I can''t wear it if I cannot risk setting it. Even though I really love it, I don''t think I will keep a gemstone that I can''t wear and cost more than USD1200.
39.gif


Any help will be most most appreciated. Thanks!
 

Pandora II

Ideal_Rock
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Aug 3, 2006
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9,613
Date: 6/7/2008 6:31:18 PM
Author:simplysplendid
Hi,

I purchased a beautiful round concave cut windex blue zircon. It was gorgeous and I send it for setting. However, the jeweler (I must say, not exactly a gem expert) says that there is a crack/feather at the pavillion and another at the girdle which rises up to the table (almost). She is concerned that the one near the girdle increases the risk of breaking the zircon during setting.

I wrote to the gem cutter and I was told that these are ''minor veils'' seen under magnification and is commonly found in zircon and many other gemstones. According to him, it should pose no durability issues and that it is my jeweler who is unfamiliar with zircons and is afraid to accept the task of setting.

Anyone can shed any light on what these minor ''veils'' are? Could he have meant ''veins''? Even if so, what are ''veins''. Totallly clueless and I need to decide whether to keep this zircon or not. I can''t wear it if I cannot risk setting it. Even though I really love it, I don''t think I will keep a gemstone that I can''t wear and cost more than USD1200.
39.gif


Any help will be most most appreciated. Thanks!
Zircon is a beautiful stone and has amazing dispersion, but it''s not without problems.

Even though it''s a 7.5 on the mohs, unlike most garnets (also 7.5) it''s a brittle stone and prone to chipping and wear on the facets - if you see an antique piece with a sparkly white stone, chips on the girdle and facet edges will normally indicate zircon rather than diamond.

Veil inclusions - also known as fingerprint inclusions, are wispy feather-like inclusions made up of liquid or gas filled cavities. Inclusions of this sort are fairly common in zircons. I have some garnets with them in and they don''t worry me.

To know if they affect the integrity of the stone, you would probably need to get another opinion. I would tend to go with the cutter''s advice over that of the jeweller though.

You can wear zircon, but baby it!

Hope that helps a bit.
 

Harriet

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Ditto to what Pandora wrote. Would it be possible to have another jeweller, who is more skilled with gems, set the zircon?
 

simplysplendid

Brilliant_Rock
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1,772
Thank you ladies!

Harriet, my jeweler''s benchmen sets all types of gemstones: chrysoberyl, aquamarine, emerald, amethyst, tourmaline, peridot, rubies and diamonds etc etc. It was my jeweler (the sales associate) who thought that the veils were inclusions and may increase the risk of setting. She is not familiar with zircon (probably the store has never sold these - the owner of the store is more knowledgeable but he is away) and I suspect she has never heard of them before.

Pandora, so does it mean that these veils will not increase the risk of setting i.e the risk of setting the zircon with or without the veil would be the same?

The cutter is Richard Homer so given his stellar reputation, I would trust his knowledge over my jeweler''s anytime.

My issue now is if my jeweler highlights the risk of setting to me, I wonder what happens if the zircon does break/chip during the setting process - do I get a replacement stone or not? Would you know what''s the usual practice?

I never ever had a jewelry issue that bothers me, this is the first time
8.gif
 

Pandora II

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Aug 3, 2006
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9,613
Date: 6/8/2008 6:23:00 PM
Author: simplysplendid

Thank you ladies!

Harriet, my jeweler''s benchmen sets all types of gemstones: chrysoberyl, aquamarine, emerald, amethyst, tourmaline, peridot, rubies and diamonds etc etc. It was my jeweler (the sales associate) who thought that the veils were inclusions and may increase the risk of setting. She is not familiar with zircon (probably the store has never sold these - the owner of the store is more knowledgeable but he is away) and I suspect she has never heard of them before.

Pandora, so does it mean that these veils will not increase the risk of setting i.e the risk of setting the zircon with or without the veil would be the same?

The cutter is Richard Homer so given his stellar reputation, I would trust his knowledge over my jeweler''s anytime.

My issue now is if my jeweler highlights the risk of setting to me, I wonder what happens if the zircon does break/chip during the setting process - do I get a replacement stone or not? Would you know what''s the usual practice?

I never ever had a jewelry issue that bothers me, this is the first time
8.gif
Given that Richard is the cutter, I would absolutely think that the veils will prove no problem at all. I doubt it would increase the risk.

Veils are inclusions, but they''re not fractures or anything that could get bigger. A lot of finger-print inclusions (is it all? I don''t remember...) are the result of the healing process within the stone. Not all the bits healed fully so you''re left with these tiny cavities.

If the zircon chips during setting it will be at your risk. I would suggest taking out insurance on the stone that will cover setting just for peace of mind. It wouldn''t be the setter''s reponsibility to replace the stone - if they supplied it they normally cover it for you, but not if it''s supplied by you.
 

simplysplendid

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Nov 19, 2006
Messages
1,772
Thank you Pandora!

Richard also explained that cracks and feathers are terms used by labs on gemstones with cleavage such as diamonds and that zircons have no cleavage, so that certainly allay my fears somewhat.
 

zhuzhu

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Mar 15, 2006
Messages
2,503
I have my blue zircon set in a mounting about 3 months ago, and indeed had an accident during the first setting. It is simply the nature of the stone so be very careful to have a competent jeweler who KNOWS the fragility of the zircon to set it for you.
 
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