Please Help with New Setting design

[twang07]

Thank you so much for posting. I appreciate your suggestions. There is a lot to think about. I may ask the admins to delete this thread and start a new one without reference to CVB

People can tell when it's CvB by the photos.. just FYI. Plus the Zoe/Chloe elements are pretty unique to CvB I would just......try to ignore the off-topic remarks and stay on topic.

For instance, would this basket be open enough for you from Erika Winters? I do adore her rings too.
https://erikawinters.com/engagement-rings-victoria-solitaire/

 

[Maisie]

People can tell when it's CvB by the photos.. just FYI. Plus the Zoe/Chloe elements are pretty unique to CvB I would just......try to ignore the off-topic remarks and stay on topic.

For instance, would this basket be open enough for you from Erika Winters? I do adore her rings too.
https://erikawinters.com/engagement-rings-victoria-solitaire/

I haven’t really followed Caysie (although her jewellery is beautiful!). That’s why I didn’t recognise the photo.

That basket is very pretty! I suppose it wouldn’t be an issue to just use the basket from someone else’s ring?

 

[the_mother_thing]

I love Caysie & her work as much as her other admirers, and am about to start a new project with her myself. And I am aware of the history with DK copying her and others’ work; but I think it’s unfair to pile on @Maisie. She isn’t asking DK (or us) for "a copy of Caysie’s ring"; she is asking us for ideas & suggestions to have DK make a ring inspired by Caysie’s ring that is unique and ‘hers’ and not a copy. There have been people who come on here and emphatically state - quite proudly even - to having an exact copy made of someone else’s work, even after being educated why it’s wrong. Those individuals clearly deserve a pile-on, IMO.

 

[diamondseeker2006]

@Maisie , here are some antique octagonal rings (some repros are mixed in). Maybe you can find some inspiration in these pictures. (if you click on them, you may be able to go to a web page with more views of the rings)

https://www.google.com/search?biw=1....0....0...1c.1.64.img..0.0.0....0.K87vU9KGnik

 

[Rfisher]

 

[the_mother_thing]

@Maisie I don’t know anything about this designer/retailer; however, they are UK based, have good reviews on Etsy, sell vintage/antique pieces, and design/create their own items by hand. They have a ring they make that is kind of similar, looks reasonably priced, and may be easier than going to DK, though I know you have worked with him in the past. Just thought I would share this in the event it’s of interest to consider another bench that is more local to you for your project.

http://aardvarkjewellery.com/product/new-handmade-rings/harmony/

 

[Wewechew]

@Maisie I don’t know anything about this designer/retailer; however, they are UK based, have good reviews on Etsy, sell vintage/antique pieces, and design/create their own items by hand. They have a ring they make that is kind of similar, looks reasonably priced, and may be easier than going to DK, though I know you have worked with him in the past. Just thought I would share this in the event it’s of interest to consider another bench that is more local to you for your project.

http://aardvarkjewellery.com/product/new-handmade-rings/harmony/

I am loving some of their settings!

 

[the_mother_thing]

People can tell when it's CvB by the photos.. just FYI.

If someone follows a designer to know their pics, perhaps. But I was just perusing Lang Antiques’ site, and noticed a lot of their pics have a similar look & feel to Ivy & Rose’s images. For example:





I don’t know that I would know the difference between these two if asked. Just saying ...

 

[heb1976]

Hey Maisie, here are some photos I pulled from 1st dibs and Tacori! You could use the cads from DK just using these as inspiration instead!

 

[heb1976]

 

[twang07]

If someone follows a designer to know their pics, perhaps. But I was just perusing Lang Antiques’ site, and noticed a lot of their pics have a similar look & feel to Ivy & Rose’s images. For example:





I don’t know that I would know the difference between these two if asked. Just saying ...

Solid point, nevertheless, if she started a new thread with the same inspo pic, without mentioning CvB many of us would know it's CvB (esp me)

I feel like there are infinite ways to change if the overall goal is to have the look of a bezel, but not have a bezel. Or maybe you just want a very thin bezel?

Besides the basket, do you like the octagon shape? Do you like 4, 6, 8, XXXX prongs? What kind of shank do you prefer (cathedral, split shank, etc). Would help with what elements you like the most and then work around that perhaps?

 

[rockysalamander]

@Maisie I love prong in bezel settings. They are classic and have been around for a long time. Since you love that elements but explicitly want to change things, I came up with a few ideas.

I agree with the the markup by the @the_mother_thing that I would rotate the bezel so the "flat" was to the side, rather than the point. I really like her ideas.

For the shank, you could keep the concept of a marquise inset posted above, but adapt this Maevona setting. This has an actual marquise flush mounted and a gentle split at the top. This shows a line of pave below the marquise, but I'm thinking that with DK bench and a vintage vibe, you could do engraving below.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BcA4aRWhKR5/?hl=en&taken-by=maevona

One idea for engraving below the marquise.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bd3b_HwhE3O/?hl=en&taken-by=maevona

For the basket, the more closed design does read very art deco and they are beastly to clean the stone. Your stone size does not mean this won't look great!

If you adopt the idea of a inset marquise, that adds some curves into the design, so the gallery can add those, as well. So, what about something like this Laurel as inspiration? But, where she ends the middle tip low, bring that tip up to the bottom of the bezel. That will give you two nice swoops.



Another option for the shank would be along the lines of this EW. I like the linear line of stones at the top with the split in the shank below with a flat wrap. that would keep a lot of the elements of the CVB design while making a lot of changes. In the little flat inset here, you could have a few more stone added (see below from Caleb Meyer), have it engraved or even have a diamond cut to fit that space. Maybe a step-cut shield would be lovely (though pricey!)



I love this detail from Caleb Meyer that uses beads and a nice engraved channel to create design lines


I will take no offence if none of these float your balloon, I can keep adding more ideas!

 

[the_mother_thing]

Solid point, nevertheless, if she started a new thread with the same inspo pic, without mentioning CvB many of us would know it's CvB (esp me)

I truly don’t mean to come across ‘argumentative’, but I don’t get your point. She acknowledged (quite transparently) in her first post it was a CvB ring, so I don’t think she (or anyone else) is really unaware of the inspiration ring’s designer here. Is it possible - because it happens to be your ring - you might be taking it a bit personal that it’s being used for inspiration and/or ‘picked apart’ for changes?

As @heb1976 shows above, many of the design elements of the inspiration ring have loooong been in existence in other antique pieces. Caysie & her bench execute some of those same elements very well in her designs as well as inspiration she draws from other sources for design elements - be it nature, a dream she has, etc. And that in no way is intended to take anything away from CvB in terms of her skill, talent, vision, etc. Nor does it take anything away from your ring, which incorporates many of those same antique elements.

I have a ring design idea inspired solely by a picture of Italian architecture I stumbled upon awhile back - I have my own drawings, references to the structure so it’s just right, etc. It just so happens to be quite similar to a ring design I later stumbled upon by another ‘known on here’ design house/bench. Does that mean I must go to that designer to create it, or radically change my idea so it’s not misconstrued by someone and/or thought to be a ‘copy’ if I use my preferred bench to create it?

 

[diamondseeker2006]

I am 100% certain that Maisie has no knowledge of DK's past of doing very close copies of other designers work, including CVB, since she is not on RT other than when she has a project. It is clear Maisie is conscious of not wanting to copy that piece. DK should have never gone to CAD before getting design changes, though, as it shows his willingness to do an exact copy. In my experience, all the design changes are discussed and planned before the project ever goes to CAD. I have used antique pieces for inspiration that Caysie suggested changes and improvements and drew them before we ever went to CAD. The CADs generally are perfect and do not need alteration. I think DK is not a designer and goes straight to CAD from the inspiration picture and then the customer has to specify the changes. That's the big difference in whether a designer is involved or not, and also can explain the difference in cost.

So I definitely hope we can be helpful to Maisie in deciding on design elements to make a unique ring for her. If we start with an octagonal halo, her gallery and shank can be taken from other antique inspiration rings like some already posted and the link I gave earlier has antique octagonal ring photos.

 

[twang07]

I truly don’t mean to come across ‘argumentative’, but I don’t get your point. She acknowledged (quite transparently) in her first post it was a CvB ring, so I don’t think she (or anyone else) is really unaware of the inspiration ring’s designer here. Is it possible - because it happens to be your ring - you might be taking it a bit personal that it’s being used for inspiration and/or ‘picked apart’ for changes?

I'm sorry that you feel as if I am being argumentative with you. The only point I wanted her to do was not start another thread "without the mention of CvB" because I thought that was a waste of time, but starting to regret that small side comment for this side thread it's making. For the record I'm happy to help her find different ways to change the inspo ring, I'm simply honored that my ring is an inspo for anyone, that's a first and I am truly honored. So thanks @Maisie My ring wasn't even that unique I took two cvb rings and smashed them together so I don't know who is the true first design. Haha so really I am not taking anything personal.

Anyway I still think we're missing crucial details about what OP likes about the ring so maybe a new threads is necessary at this point so she can circle and list what elements she likes or doesn't like. Like I said before I am happy to see DK make a ring that has been inspired by my piece cause I went back and forth myself before deciding CvB. Maybe the thread can start, just as an idea, please help me figure out what elements would make this inspired by CvB piece truly unique. Hiding that it is cvb just seems like a waste of time

Edited to add :
Oooooh and @Maisie are you a fan of two tone?? I have been so sad that I didn't make my head two tone cause I couldn't figure out how so if you pull that off, especially if it's your style, it would be so cool! It's because I have noticed that my stone definitely looks more yellow in the all yellow gold. It's a J so it's not thaaaat yellow for an OEC. I don't know the specs of your stone but the all gold definitely casts a reflection in the stone in some lighting that makes it look more yellow! If you have something like a J...perhaps you want to consider this as well.

 

[the_mother_thing]

@twang07 I didn’t say you were being argumentative; I said I am not trying to be argumentative ... so you wouldn’t misinterpret my comments as such ... since it’s the internet and all. I don’t think starting a new thread is necessary, but I agree it would help if @Maisie identified a list of which parts of the inspiration ring she likes/wants to retain and those she definitely wants to change so we can help her with suggestions.

I have more ‘ideas’ drafted up that are mash-ups of so many different rings, so I get how circular this process can be when you’re trying to make something ‘your own’ from so many inspiration sources. And @Maisie if it will help, I’ll be glad to help mock up what you like on my iPad Pro and post it for you to help you along. I love doing that stuff, and it’s cheaper for me to do it for someone else than to be drawing out ideas of my own and have pieces made.

 

[Maisie]

@diamondseeker2006 thank you for the inspiration photos. They were most helpful. I don't know about all of DK's history on here. I haven't been around for a long while. I don't want an exact copy. I wish I had just asked for help without showing the Caysie ring.

@sledge I'm a huge fan of milgrain! I will definitely be using it on my new setting, it looks fabulous round the bezel!@

@Rfisher I really like the settings you posted. I think I am definitely drawn to the octagon shape. Its so different to anything I see where I live.

@heb1976 Seeing those genuine antique settings means that some of the aspects I love in the Caysie ring have been around a long time. I'm hoping that means I can include some of them in my setting. Thank you.

@rockysalamander Yes to everything you said!! Those ideas are definitely where my mind is at

@the_mother_thing I appreciate all your posts. You have been very helpful and kind. Thank you very much. You have a great eye for this sort of thing and it helps enormously to see the pictures. I wish I was so talented! I had a look at that designer here in the UK. I will likely use them at some point! My diamond is with DK now though.

@twang07 Thank you for being so kind about me trying to use some of your ring design. I am glad you have taken it as an honour that someone loves your ring so much. You have excellent taste!

I will try to list all the ideas I have picked up so far....

Basket should be very pretty! I love looking at my rings and I want to love every view of it.

Octagon shape for the top. I like the idea of rotating the bezel. It looks pretty that way. I also like the side of the bezel on the 2nd CVB ring, the way it angles in toward the top (if that makes sense).

I like to have at least 6 prongs. I had 6 on my last setting. I would really like a bezel as this diamond won't be reset again. I have the go ahead from my husband to buy a larger solitaire in a couple of years so this will likely become my rhr.

I don't want too many small diamonds on the setting. It makes me nervous! I don't want to be worried about losing one. Is there a way to make it look like there are small diamonds with engraving or something?

I am having the setting made in yellow gold. I don't really want two tone. I love the colour of my diamond (M/N OEC).

I think thats everything. Thank you if you are still with me after this really long post!

 

[Maisie]

 

[the_mother_thing]

@Maisie I have a hair appt this early evening where I will have some down time, so I will play with the inspiration pics you shared, integrate your comments as well and see if I can 'mash' it all together into something visually for you to take a look at.

 

[Maisie]

@Maisie I have a hair appt this early evening where I will have some down time, so I will play with the inspiration pics you shared, integrate your comments as well and see if I can 'mash' it all together into something visually for you to take a look at.

Thank you so much!

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Maisie, is there a link for the ring on the right, third down? That has such a pretty profile! I'd like to see if from the top!

I am also cautious about leaving room to clean the pavilion of the diamond, so I would also want to open up the sides somewhat.

 

[twang07]

If an octagonal rotated is what you like then I think 8 baby prongs would still work best unless you like the prongs to come out of a flat edge, I prefer them coming out of the vertices of the octagon. FWIW I really don't think baby claw prongs detract from the stone and I prefer them to dot style prongs, but whatever you like better!

With it rotated that means the connection to the cathedral joint should be flat to match the flat edge. What do you think about shoulders like this instead of the kite? (This echos @the_mother_thing s suggestion). This was a direction I was heading as well, this is a ring from single stone
Original

With the octagon rotated connection

I like the way the kite turns into the knife edge though, so echoing @the_mother_thing You could flatten the top and keep the point towards the cuff.

If you feel ambivalent towards the cathedral setting then there's also just having the octagon on the shank (another example from single stone)

https://www.singlestone.com/single-stone-collection_c2/emerson_p1571/

I think that tacori basket (bottom row right image) looks perfect just make sure the bottom is completely open and connects into something like this

Maybe with the hole on the donut being wider so you can easily access the stone.

 

[Maisie]

Maisie, is there a link for the ring on the right, third down? That has such a pretty profile! I'd like to see if from the top!

I am also cautious about leaving room to clean the pavilion of the diamond, so I would also want to open up the sides somewhat.

I found it on google when I was looking for side views. I can't find my way back to it. If I do I will post a link

 

[Maisie]

If an octagonal rotated is what you like then I think 8 baby prongs would still work best unless you like the prongs to come out of a flat edge, I prefer them coming out of the vertices of the octagon. FWIW I really don't think baby claw prongs detract from the stone and I prefer them to dot style prongs, but whatever you like better!

With it rotated that means the connection to the cathedral joint should be flat to match the flat edge. What do you think about shoulders like this instead of the kite? (This echos @the_mother_thing s suggestion). This was a direction I was heading as well, this is a ring from single stone
Original

With the octagon rotated connection

I like the way the kite turns into the knife edge though, so echoing @the_mother_thing You could flatten the top and keep the point towards the cuff.

If you feel ambivalent towards the cathedral setting then there's also just having the octagon on the shank (another example from single stone)

https://www.singlestone.com/single-stone-collection_c2/emerson_p1571/

I think that tacori basket (bottom row right image) looks perfect just make sure the bottom is completely open and connects into something like this

Maybe with the hole on the donut being wider so you can easily access the stone.

I definitely like the Tacori basket. I like how its not heavy. What I'm afraid of is making the head of the setting to bulky. I sold my last setting because it seemed to swamp my diamond. I don't mind cathedral shoulders. I would like the ring to sit close but I don't mind if its not flush with my wedding band (2mm wide).

Is the gold ring in your post the one Caysie made for you?

 

[twang07]

I definitely like the Tacori basket. I like how its not heavy. What I'm afraid of is making the head of the setting to bulky. I sold my last setting because it seemed to swamp my diamond. I don't mind cathedral shoulders. I would like the ring to sit close but I don't mind if its not flush with my wedding band (2mm wide).

I do think the setting is very dainty. Doesn't feel bulky. The head did spin alot until I had my wedding bands to keep it centered, but I think I might be closer to a 5 than a 5.5, but I had the ring made to 5.5 so I'm afraid I don't know what caused it to spin. My rings height off my finger is ~6.5mm to the top of the stone. It can definitely be lower by 1mm, which might happen if you make their donut wider and push the entire design down.

Is the gold ring in your post the one Caysie made for you?

Yes this is my ring. My goal was to show you the underside so you can get an idea how to "open" the Tacori basket for cleaning.

 

[The Stig]

Ok. But he did make a CAD that is an exact copy of her ring. Sorry, but after he copied her "Chloe" 100%, I have no doubts that he would make this EXACT ring for you if you wanted.

And for anyone who wants to pounce on me for being a fangirl, go ahead. MANY people on here remember that incident and he even took down the ring pic on IG because it was an exact copy. I'm shocked that he would go down that road again.

Actually, no I'm not- it's his business model. And I have to say I'm pretty disappointed that it's so casually accepted and encouraged here

When you ordered your diamond/Jewelry and had it shipped to you from out of state, did you pay the sales tax usage on your item and disclose on your state tax return?

 

[soxfan]

When you ordered your diamond/Jewelry and had it shipped to you from out of state, did you pay the sales tax usage on your item and disclose on your state tax return?

WTF are you talking about?

 

[Maisie]

When you ordered your diamond/Jewelry and had it shipped to you from out of state, did you pay the sales tax usage on your item and disclose on your state tax return?

Maybe you mean me? Of course I paid taxes and duty on my ring when I imported it into the UK.

 

[Maisie]

This is really pretty!

 

[Maisie]

And this....