Please help me find a jeweller for e-ring!!

[jbafrica]

Hello everyone,

I have lurked on this site for a long time and the time has come that I request the help of everyone. My boyfriend lives on another continent with limited access to jewellery options, so I have to do most of the work. We would like a purple centre stone for the ring. My preference is amethyst though it's not recommended for an everyday ring.

I started the custom process with a jeweller in my city (he's highly recommended on here) and after the first sketch, I'm extremely disappointed. I spent the past two days feeling defeated and thinking of purchasing a ready-made ring. I chose a purple sapphire because this jeweller will not work with amethyst. Anyway, I've decided to cancel the work with this jeweller as I'm very spooked after the first sketch. Also, I think deep down I didn't love the stone (3+ carat purple sapphire). It just wasn't that gorgeous purple tone that I often see with amethysts. Can I expect back a refund of any of my deposit?

Now to the issue at hand. After spending the past two days looking at LOTS of rings to purchase in store or online, I feel in love with this Harry Kotlar beauty. The yellow gold option.

So I'm back to where I didn't want to be again...needing a custom jeweller. I would be extremely happy if any can recommend a jeweller that can duplicate this ring for me with an amethyst centre stone. Someone that can source the amethyst and diamonds would be perfect. I'm in Toronto but can easily make a trip to NYC. Thanks in advance for all your help.

 

[FrekeChild]

What size stone are you looking for? I don't know if you'd be interested, but this purple Winza sapphire was posted to LT recently, and she might be willing to take it out of the setting.

http://loupetroop.com/listings/rings-colored-stone-center/purple-gene-sapphire-in-simon-g-setting

So, you don't think that there is any way that you can continue working with the jeweler you already put a deposit down with?

I think that IDJ (NYC) could replicate that setting pretty easily. Because of the style of the ring, you're going to have lots of little diamonds, and they will probably fall out, so you will likely have to replace several of them over time, unless you wear it sparingly. I just wanted to warn you of the maintenance that goes along with these types of rings, as some people don't really consider that when looking at rings. Tiny stones mean tiny prongs.

As for amethyst, I would not recommend it for an engagement ring, as you will have to replace it over time. Amethyst does not hold up to every day wear over a lifetime. But, on the flip side, you could buy multiple amethysts and just replace them whenever you need to, because they are pretty cheap, as far as gemstones go.

 

[jbafrica]

Thanks for responding frekechild.

I'm not sure the size stone that I'm looking for, something that fits in relation to this setting I guess. The purple sapphire you posted is very pretty. I'm new to this, how would I go about contacting this person regarding the stone?

I don't think I can work with the jeweller anymore because the sketch is so far off what we discussed. I rather change course. Thanks for drawing my attention to the problem with the setting (small stones falling out). You just made me pause a bit but I think I will take the risk. I don't plan to wear it often after the wedding (likely mainly my wedding band).

You're right about amethyst and I've been warned by others as well. I just haven't found a purple sapphire that I love. Like you said, amethyst are so cheap, I don't mind replacing it.

How do I get in touch with IDJ? What is the custom process like with a jeweller out of town? Thanks again.

 

[FrekeChild]

If you can make an account with LoupeTroop, you can email her directly. It's a beautiful stone, and it doesn't get much better, cut wise. She's located in Toronto, so that'd be relatively easy for you, I think.

IDJ's contact info is here: http://idjewelryonline.com/contact_id.php I would want to deal directly with Yekutiel. And tell them that PS sent you. I actually visited their store in NYC last summer, and they make beautiful items of jewelry.

 

[Michael_E]

Like you said, amethyst are so cheap, I don't mind replacing it.

The problem with this view is that replacing the stone itself is the least part of the cost of the process. The biggest problem is that you will generally also have to replace some of the prongs, as they stiffen on the first setting and then tend to crack or break when bent during the setting of the replacement stone. This increases the cost of replacement and while it's not as big a problem with yellow gold, adding stress to the prongs, can make them more susceptible to stress corrosion cracking and early failure. If you can avoid replacing a stone, you should. I would suggest a purple sapphire or spinel as well.

 

[jbafrica]

Frekechild Does this seller have an account on here? I would rather not having to create another account. Also, if I can possibly meet her to see the stone in person, it would be great. What size/carat coloured stone should I be looking for to replicate the same look of this setting? I think the diamond in this setting is probably about 1 carat. Would your suggestion work? It looks a bit small to me but I don't know much about stones and rings etc.

So you think IDJ can duplicate this setting exactly? The best jeweller for the job? I'm so scared of this custom process now but I know there are very talented jewellers out there.

Michael E Thanks for the advice. Duly noted. I guess I'll try hunting for a purple sapphire.

 

[FrekeChild]

Frekechild Does this seller have an account on here? I would rather not having to create another account. Also, if I can possibly meet her to see the stone in person, it would be great. What size/carat coloured stone should I be looking for to replicate the same look of this setting? I think the diamond in this setting is probably about 1 carat. Would your suggestion work? It looks a bit small to me but I don't know much about stones and rings etc.

So you think IDJ can duplicate this setting exactly? The best jeweller for the job? I'm so scared of this custom process now but I know there are very talented jewellers out there.

Michael E Thanks for the advice. Duly noted. I guess I'll try hunting for a purple sapphire.

Yes, she does, but you can't contact anyone through PS in a private message; PS does not have a function for it. And she can't answer any questions in this forum either. So the only chance you have to contact her is to make an account with LoupeTroop, as far as I can tell. She might have an ebay account, but I wouldn't have a clue what it is.

A 1ct diamond is roughly 6.5mm, and this sapphire is 6.4mm. The difference between the two sizes is basically negligible.

I think that they could probably make a very close approximation of this ring. It's not really cool to try to copy other jeweler's rings exactly. So you'd have to ask them. I've never bought anything from IDJ, but as I said, I've been there, and their items looked nicely made.

 

[Niel]

It takes two seconds to create an account. Its worth it if you like that stone.

 

[jbafrica]

Frekechild No problem, I have already emailed her. Meanwhile, are there other online retailers you can recommend to purchase purple sapphires or amethysts? I agree it's not cool to copy another designers ring exactly. I contacted Harry Kotlar earlier today for a quote on the ring with an amethyst centre stone before posting on here. I would much prefer to have the ring made by HK for peace of mind than having another jeweller copy it but I must also consider budget as well. The price for the ring with the diamond centre stone is expensive, at least for us, but I'll just have to wait for their quote.

Thanks Niel, I did.

 

[FrekeChild]

Are you open to other stone shapes?

ETA: what is your total budget?

 

[FrekeChild]

Ok, I went looking. Some of these will have cut issues. I don't think many of them are round. But they are the stones that popped out to me and said "Look at me! I'm purple!" Please take note of the face up size! Some of these are quite small.

Cushion with a "bowtie"
http://www.multicolour.com/detail/?490134949

Pear with a window
http://www.multicolour.com/detail/?-528208227

Radiant, not noticeable cut problems
http://www.multicolour.com/detail/?29379098

Purple/violet pear
http://www.multicolour.com/detail/?1555172918

Small windowed pear
http://www.multicolour.com/detail/?361026024

Small windowed oval
http://www.multicolour.com/detail/?-1986927944

Cushion with off center culet
http://www.multicolour.com/detail/?1865873347


Purple radiant, doesn't look to be eyeclean, pretty expensive, sapphire 1153, right hand side, 7th row down
http://www.gemfix.com/sapphire_blue.html

Round
http://www.thenaturalsapphirecompan...apphires/p-53445-round-unique-sapphire-u4970/

Very expensive round, barely faces up larger than the LoupeTroop stone:
http://www.thenaturalsapphirecompan...apphires/p-53462-round-unique-sapphire-u4989/

If I come across more, I'll post them.

 

[FrekeChild]

At the bottom of the page:

http://www.finewatergems.com/sapphire.html

 

[chrono]

Depending on the design, it can take a few reiterations before you are satisfied with the end result and approve it. Do not be discouraged that the vendor/bench did not get it right the first time. I've worked with several PS favourites and none of them got it right the first time. I've had up to 4 revisions before I was happy enough to go ahead with the wax.

If you can swing it, I would persist with either a purple sapphire or spinel. If you don't like the stone, keep on looking but that is insufficient reason to cancel the work. Depending on the vendor, most would refund everything less a small CAD deposit fee, which might be around $200 to $300.

Can I ask why you are unable to purchase the Harry Kotlar setting? That would be the path with the least headache; it is a design you love and there are no copyright issues.

Several things stood up for me in looking at your requirements:
1. No budget stated
2. No mention of treatment for the sapphire
3. a 3 carat round sapphire is going to measure 9 mm. Are you sure you want a stone this large?
4. A 9 mm stone in the HK setting could spill over to the neighbouring fingers, depending on the size of your finger
5. The HK setting has a lot of details, and if going custom, regardless of the vendor, it will take 3 to 4 revisions until every nuance is nailed down. Even so, due to copyrights, you cannot make an exact copy of the setting. I'm guessing a well made setting might be at least $3K for a CAD/cast version.

ETA
I see that you've asked HK for a quotation. I would go this route if it fits into your budget because going custom will be a headache unless you are patient and persistent, regardless of vendor. If you have high expectations of finish and detail, I don't think IDJ will be up to snuff. There is a lot of wire work involved and if not well done, could end up looking lumpy and crooked.

 

[Niel]

I echo chrono's thoughts. I wouldn't trust idj for a project like this as I just haven't seen then produce anything similar. I would try and buy the original setting unless there are aspects of the setting you specifically don't like.

I'd look into this as its a wearable size, interesting cut for an interesting halo, and wearable material. Though I know the cut isn't for everybody, I like it
http://www.concavegems.com/detail.cfm?zNum=5625

 

[jbafrica]

Thanks for all your help FrekeChild. The budget was originally 5k but the stone pushed it up to 8k (for the original job with local jeweller). So I guess somewhere within that range is okay though we'd prefer to stay closer to the original budget. However, I'm sure the Harry Kotlar quote will be around the top end of our budget, if not more. The ring I posted with the diamond centre and diamonds on the band is 13k but I'll just wait to hear back. Thanks for the links with the sapphires. I'll check them out. What does face up size mean? Smaller stones can look bigger looking straight down at the stone?

Chrono you're right, I was probably hasty in my decision. I have never bought an expensive piece of jewelry before and never worked with a custom jeweller. Just to be clear, the original setting is different than this HK work. For the setting, he found me a 3+ carat oval purple sapphire. I think I made some rash decisions being an amateur. I didn't love the stone in the jeweller's studio and I expressed that but he said it's the best available in the city. In hindsight, I should have just left and given myself sometime to think but I didn't, instead I put down a deposit. So when two weeks later, the first sketch came in much different than expected, I panicked.

Nonetheless, I absolutely agree with you regarding getting the original Harry Kotlar setting. I woke up feeling certain that HK was the best option and going custom was a scary route I didn't wanted to travel again. The only problem now is the price. I should hear back from them by today or tomorrow. I think an amethyst centre might be in my budget but not a purple sapphire if HK provides the stone. Once I get a response, I'll asked if I can provide by own stone. If so, I'll find a purple sapphire that I love. What size mm sapphire should I be looking for if I can provide my own stone?

Niel I appreciate your opinions as well. I kept feeling yesterday after posting this thread that considering a custom jeweller wasn't a bad idea. I have never seen a halo like this before and it's probably for a reason, it seems very easy to screw it up. Sorry if it's a stupid question but what does wearable material mean? What is a concave brilliant cut? That's a actually a beautiful purple !

Thanks for all your input everyone.

 

[Niel]

I just meant that its a stone that's good to wear everyday. A sapphire vs a a soft amethyst.

Concave is just a way of cutting. Like you see there. Its different than regular cutting. I wound describe it well but on his website he has a description of what it is and why its a little different.

I love the color of that stone too. If you like it is email the seller see if hell get you some hand shots and whatnot.

I would not pay 13k for that setting. Especially of you say you won't be wearing as much after your wedding (which I hope that changes because lovely rings should be worn ) is the recommended jeweler ERD? is that who you got the drawing from? If not I'd try him. I don't think he would charge near that for a replica.

 

[chrono]

If the HK quote is $13K for the setting and stone, then it is likely that the setting alone could be in the $5K range.

For coloured stones, more so than diamonds, a 1 carat round can have many different Length x Width measurements depending on the cut. Ideally, a 1.5 carat sapphire will measure 6.5 mm. A shallow cut 1.5 carat sapphire will measure larger (7 mm) and a deep pavilion 1.5 carat sapphire will measure smaller (6 mm). Depending on the density, different gemstones will face up differently too. Amethyst is less dense than sapphire so a 1 ct round is already 6.5 mm.

Ask the jeweller whether you can get your deposit back. Explain politely that you made a rash decision and need more time to think. Worse comes to worse, he will charge a minimal sum for the time and effort to come up with the initial sketch.

If HK allows you to provide your own stone, ask them what mm size(s) stones will fit.

Concave cutting is a different style of faceting the usual flat faceting. With the usual style, the effect is large bold flashes of colour. With concave faceting, it is more shimmery and static. If you like flat faceting, Richard Homer also does this style by request. You can work through Wink, who is able to get you a slight discount, I think.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M8s8-qCJlQ4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dBZ63nGDGKA

 

[jbafrica]

Niel Ah got it. I promise I'll wear it often enough but everyday wear is probably out of the question given my environment. The 13k is the price of the ring with diamond centre and diamond band from one jewellery store, though that's probably negotiable. The drawing was for my initial setting (not this HK) and it was done by a local jeweller recommended here on PS. I'm scared to go custom. My ideal right now is providing my own stone to HK and having them set it.

Chrono Very good information in your post, I'm learning a lot. I think if the setting is around 5k, I'd be a happy camper. London Jewellers have replied to me and they said HK has to source the amethyst and I should get a quote by Thursday/Friday. I responded back asking if I could provide my own stone so I'll wait for that answer. Once I know that, I can take all the wonderful suggestions and purchase a great sapphire.

 

[velouriaL]

The setting you like reminds me of the Bella, which is made by a vendor many have used on here, is in your price range, and does custom for the center stone.
http://www.loveaffairdiamonds.com/the-bella-halo/

If you do since search for jbeg ( the vendor used to be called Jewels by Erica Grace), you'll find many pictures and reports.