Platinum Sterling Alloy?

[AltaMarina]

Hello! This is my first post: I've done a lot of anonymous research here, but never needed to ask a question until now.
(Skip to the bottom paragraph for my story, for keep reading for my question.)

I'm desperate to know; What happened to Platinum Sterling alloy?! I only discovered it's existence today and imagine my disappointment upon finding that it apparently disappeared before I even learned about it. Initial reports about the use of the alloy for jewelry were excellent, and I can't find any negative reviews, so it seems strange that it isn't in use anywhere. If there were problems with longevity then I would assume that a report would have been made available. Here are most of the links I've found about Platinum Sterling:

http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nenam/platinum-sterling-alloy-1.htm
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/different-platinum-alloys.115930/
https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/platinum-sterling-925.137022/
http://www.gemsociety.org/article/casting-platinum-sterling-a-new-alloy/
http://www.specialtymetals.com/blog...at-you-need-to-know-about-this-precious-alloy
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Platinum_sterling

Does anyone have any current information on this alloy or another like it? I've contacted ABI Precious Metals, and I'm currently waiting for a response. I'll post an update once I've heard back. It appears that they still carry the Palladium Sterling alloy, but somehow I'm really stuck on the Platinum Sterling.


I got engaged over two years ago and the engagement ring is a family ring. I'm having the diamond reset (someday) and I've been obsessing over what metal I want for my new ring. I have a very simple design in mind, but a custom one nonetheless. I only like white metals, and I know the standard options are platinum, white gold, and palladium. None of these are ideal for me.
-Platinum is too expensive and our jeweler can only work with small amounts because he's mainly set up for gold. (One jeweler in my hometown was discovered to be swapping out people's diamonds for lower quality ones, so I'm paranoid about the idea of finding a new jeweler.)
-White gold is still warm in color, and the X1 and similar, whiter, alloys are hard to come by. I don't want plating because I work with my hands a lot and I think the maintenance would be too bothersome.
-Palladium isn't "user friendly" if you need resizing, or custom work.
The X1 white gold alloy still seems like my best choice, so far. The diva in me REALLY wants platinum, but I'd have to find someone trustworthy in midcoast Maine to do my custom work and potential resizing in the future. I'm actively searching for alternatives.

 

[AltaMarina]

I found some additional info about similar alloys "Platinaire" and "Valorium":

http://platinaire.com/
http://betterthandiamond.com/pages/Valorium,-what-is-it?.html

 

[diamondseeker2006]

I would think sterling would be too soft as a platinum alloy. But the thing is, a platinum ring only has either 5 or 10% of another metal, so I am not seeing how this will help you on cost. The alloys we recommend are 95%plat/5%ruthenium or 90%plat/10%iridium as these are durable and scratch resistant.

Hundreds and hundreds of people here have had custom rings made by talented and honest ring makers. We can tell you who they are. Please do not limit yourself to one jeweler who does not work with platinum much if you want platinum. I favor platinum over white gold for a white metal and prefer gold in it's more natural color!

 

[MollyMalone]

Yep, there would be a cost savings because these are silver alloys with a small percentage of platinum rather than predominantly platinum.

Seconding ds's strong recommendation that you not use a bench that doesn't routinely work with platinum, if that's what you really would rather have (in case your local jeweler didn't explain, working with platinum requires a different set of fabricating skills & tools that should be reserved for platinum-only work; I imagine he might charge you more because platinum is not a metal he frequently works with -- and I think I'd be leery about being his guinea pig for another alloy that's new to him, so maybe also ask ABI if they can provide a list of metalsmiths conversant with their alloy?)

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Well, for less expensive jewelry sterling is fine, but I would not use sterling 925 for a diamond engagement ring because that is very, very little platinum as the alloy. If you can't do platinum, I'd go with 14k white gold or palladium.

 

[denverappraiser]

Sterling is, by definition, 92.5% silver. The negotiation is about that other 7.5% Traditionally speaking it's all copper and that's the recipe for the vast majority of silver items. That said, the manufacturer got to pick whatever they wanted and, in the case of custom made pieces, you usually have direct access to the manufacturer. Talk to them about it. It sure looks to me like ABI will sell them the material so it's just a matter of finding someone who can and will work with it. Most jewelers don't like to work in 'exotic' metals but we're talking about a pool of creative people and it's a matter of piquing someone's interest to get them to be willing to work with you.

You mentioned difficulties getting palladium/silver sized. This is true enough, but it'll be true with platinum/silver as well because few jewelers will have the appropriate materials on hand. That's not necessarily a deal killer but using platinum doesn't solve that particular problem.

 

[AltaMarina]

Thank you so much for your replies! I see what you all mean about not trying to reinvent the wheel just to keep this jeweler. He only works with platinum for prongs and bezels but does not work with platinum rings. He has been sort of the family jeweler, so I guess I've been reluctant to use someone else.
I received a reply from ABI:
"Thank you for your inquiry regarding Pt/SS.
ABI took Pt/SS off the web site as they entered into an exclusive arrangement for our 5% Pt/SS version being sold as Bridal Brand/Collection (this is Rhodium Plated)
http://platinaire.com/
The alloy is available for fashion jewelry & designing / commissioned Jewelers like yourself.
I feel the 3.5% Pt/SS version is the best alternative (Tarnish Resistance & Hardness), followed by 1.0% version.
This article in Ganoksin actually is a great article offering the technical benefits:
http://www.ganoksin.com/borisat/nenam/platinum-sterling-alloy-1.htm
I have also attached some additional info including price.
We have also produced a new patented alloy (Elite Silver - see below) that is whiter & more tarnish resistant & less expensive than 3.5% Pt/SS, but more expensive than traditional 925 silver. This alloy is 95% Ag, 1% Pd, 0.5% Au = 96.5% PM.
> What form will you need.
> if you are still interested, I will send you an account application.
> Where are you located ?
Below is a link to ABI's web site for
Elite Silver
http://www.abipreciousmetals.com/products/sterling-products/950-elite-silver/
http://www.abipreciousmetals.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/950-elite-2012.pdf
Attached is info on ABI's (Allura Metals) for Platinum Silver. I think 1-% & 3.5% is the bang for the buck.
Thank you & all the best,
Jewel-Tech / W.R. Cobb-ABI / TT Times"

I was considering this alloy because of it's merging of two pure metals that are white in color, in order to avoid rhodium dipping. It looks like the alloy that is higher in platinum content is now Platinaire, and is rhodium dipped anyway. A response from Platinaire also revealed that they do not sell casting grain or other workable forms of the metal. So, even with all of the other issues, Plat-Sterling is now off the table.

Do high palladium white gold alloys have any strengths or weaknesses over Stuller's X1 or regular white gold? I'll continue to research this in the forums as well.

 

[MollyMalone]

You could also research the "superior white" gold alloys from Argen:
http://www.argenjewelry.com/Superior+White+Chart/id/52/
http://www.argenjewelry.com/Casting+Grain+Temperatures/id/30/

But since platinum seems to be your heart's first choice, I don't think you should rule it out before undertaking further exploration. You might be pleasantly surprised at the price quotes you get from those who are very comfortable working with it.

 

[AltaMarina]

I have concerns about the ring losing it's shape if cast in platinum. The design I'm looking for is essentially this http://www.sareenjewelry.com/Luseen A./luseen-a-ladies-diamond-ring-1194373450.html minus the pave. Others have mentioned thinner bands going out of shape and that design has some thin spots. With essentially two bands, I'm a little afraid of what an estimate might look like. I am currently looking for a jeweler in my area who works with platinum and/or palladium, but it's looking bleak. Thank you for the suggestion and I'm still keeping platinum on the back burner.