Platinum settings for Ascher cut

[scfuller2004]

I have a 3.20 carat Ascher cut (Square Emerald) center stone, measurements are 8.17x815x5.61, 61% Table, with 68.8% Depth, set with 2 side trapezoids of about .50 carats each (1.0 total carat weight for the 2). The setting is a very traditional setting in platinum, and I had the setting designed by an independent jeweler in San Francisco who's done work for Boucheron, Shreve & Co., etc..and has one many awards.

I have had to take the ring back to him now 3 times, as the center stone has become loose. He claims that this is NORMAL, as platinum is a very soft metal and that the diamond is just 'settling' in the basket. He warned me when i originally got the ring made, that the center stone could become loose in the basket as the diamond sets with use. He siad he wanted to see me in 30 days, then 6 months, then a year to check on the setting and make sure the center stone was secure in the basket.

Is this normal? I've had other jewelers say that this is NOT normal and that if the setting was done right that I should not have a problem, and need to be coming back to get the prongs tightened. My jeweler says that because I have an Ascher cut diamond, that is deep with a high-angled crown, that they are more difficult stones to set and susceptible to loosening some over time.

Is this right? I spent $3,500 on the custom setting. It seems that he should get it right. He's only willing to take it back each time to hammer the prongs and tighten the stone again. My fiancee wants him to do a completely new setting.

what should i do?

 

[niceice]

It doesn''t sound right to us, but you should take the ring to an independent appraiser who is familiar with ring construction and have them look at how the seat was cut for the stone rather than run it around to a bunch of other jewelers because many of them are likely to say "that isn''t right" in hopes of getting your custom work from you on the re-make of this ring or in the future... That''s our round about way of saying "it really doesn''t sound right to us" without trying to be that jeweler if that makes sense... By obtaining the advice of a neutral third party who does not sell jewelry, your belief that this occurance should not be happening so frequently will be much more valid than the advice of another jeweler who has something to gain by supporting your position...

 

[valeria101]

I don''t think Bucheron tells their customers the same (since the jeweler claims to have worked for them... the comparison seems appropriate) and I really doubt this house keeps all jewelry for three months before sale for the gems to ''settle in''.

Sounds strange, really

It may also be that the jewelr truly is great, but the model is right on the edge of what platinum can bear (something very minimalist, thin and dainty with very high prongs...comes to mind). In this case, I wonder why they accepted to make it, but this is yet another question.

 

[scfuller2004]

yes, seems strange. he gets very defensive when i tell him we''re upset about having to bring it back for the 3rd time. Let me ask you this..
do places like Tiffany tell their customers that they may have to bring the ring back because the stone may become loose? do they make a practice of it? and does that in fact happen with their settings?