Platinum ring from bullion

[joe4444]

I hope this question has not already been asked. I searched the forums, but I only found topics relating to melting old settings or other jewelry, and I understand the problems in that situation.

I'd like to use a 1-oz platinum coin (99.95% pure; gift from my dad) and a 1.0 ct round diamond (my mom's) to make an engagement ring. Local jewelers only offer store credit for the coin, but I want this metal to be in the ring. If the jeweler would normally start with platinum grain, melt it, and cast it, then why not start with a pure platinum coin? That should eliminate the problems of solders, other metals in a setting's alloy, and the unknown purity issue. Perhaps the issue is that it needs to be 950 or 900 platinum, and the jewelers cannot make their own alloy by adding pure ruthenium?

Anyway, I've exhausted local jewelers, and many who I found online give me the same answer. There are some willing to work with my platinum, but I would also like a tension setting. Unfortunately, I have yet to find the overlap of a jeweler willing to use my platinum who can also make a tension setting. I'm hoping someone here can help me find one.

Thanks!

 

[chrono]

You can try this same question in the Rocky Talky section but you've sort of answered the question yourself already. In jewellery, pure or even 99.95% platinum is not used. There are different alloys mixed in for strength and malleability (workability). Most stores do not smelt their own alloys but purchase ready made findings (in the correct alloy combination) which all they have to do heat it and form it. Given that you are after a tension setting, I prefer to go with a trusted tension maker such as Gelin Abaci, rather than a custom shop where I know they have made umpteen tension rings without any issues.

 

[joe4444]

Thanks, Chrono. I've looked at Gelin Abaci. Unfortunately all of those bypass tension settings are quite thick and wide. The one local jeweler who does a lot of tension settings can make them quite thin. Sadly, although they were very friendly at first and open to making any custom setting I could imagine, as soon as I mentioned that I wanted to supply my mother's diamond and dad's platinum, their attitude changed abruptly. They wanted nothing to do with me. I'm starting to think I may have to give up the idea of using this platinum and just go with a titanium setting.

 

[chrono]

There is a reason why the bypass tension settings are thick and wide - they have to protect the stone from damage (cannot have the stone stick our further than the diameter of the shank or you will chip the diamond) and the metal needs to be strong enough to maintain pressure against the stone lest it fly out of the setting.

Another alternative is to create a pseudo tension setting where it looks like tension setting from the top view but there is a support structure underneath (or a bridge) connecting the shank. In this case, the setting does not have to be wide not thick. Many custom benches can create pseudo tension settings easily.