Pet first aid kit

[TooPatient]

We have some basic supplies on hand for our cats and dogs, but I need to build a much more complete first aid kit for them as we are moving. The new house is more than an hour from the nearest emergency vet. The nearest regular vet is 20+ minutes away with limited hours. I have already gotten instructions from our veterinarian on how to induce vomiting safely in the dogs if needed. Will include that in our first aid kit.

What is in your pet first aid kit? What would you see as critical to add if you were a long way from help?

 

[winnietucker]

Mine is hydrogen peroxide (so I can force my dogs to vomit when they eat something they shouldn’t), a spray from the vet to help minor wounds, povidone iodine, and saline spray. I always have cotton balls on hand. I also have left over pain pills from my dog’s surgery. I’ll take my dogs to the emergency vet for anything I’m iffy about if my regular vet is unavailable, so my kit is probably sparse compared to others.

 

[kgizo]

Hot spot treatment.
Ear cleaner.
E collar.
If prone to UTIs urine catch kits and clavamox.
Stethoscope if heart disease/ fluid in lungs concern.
I think it depends on what your animals are at risk for and if it’s something you should have on hand to buy you a day or two to get to the vet.
Ask your vet about vaccine recommendations based on your new rural area. Here there are additional vaccines if risk of raccoons, skunk exposure etc.
Lastly, there are light up collars which are great for keeping track of pets out for an evening potty as rural areas have less light pollution.

 

[TooPatient]

Hot spot treatment.
Ear cleaner.
E collar.
If prone to UTIs urine catch kits and clavamox.
Stethoscope if heart disease/ fluid in lungs concern.
I think it depends on what your animals are at risk for and if it’s something you should have on hand to buy you a day or two to get to the vet.
Ask your vet about vaccine recommendations based on your new rural area. Here there are additional vaccines if risk of raccoons, skunk exposure etc.
Lastly, there are light up collars which are great for keeping track of pets out for an evening potty as rural areas have less light pollution.

Vaccines is an interesting question! I had no idea! Light collars are awesome. I use them already as two of our dogs are black so blend into the shadows at night for dinner and bedtime potty.

 

[TooPatient]

Mine is hydrogen peroxide (so I can force my dogs to vomit when they eat something they shouldn’t), a spray from the vet to help minor wounds, povidone iodine, and saline spray. I always have cotton balls on hand. I also have left over pain pills from my dog’s surgery. I’ll take my dogs to the emergency vet for anything I’m iffy about if my regular vet is unavailable, so my kit is probably sparse compared to others.

That is a pretty good kit! I only have bandaging supplies after one of our guys kept tearing his nails.

 

[winnietucker]

That is a pretty good kit! I only have bandaging supplies after one of our guys kept tearing his nails.

Ours did that too - had to put him on antibiotics. But this reminded me... I will add that I think a basket style muzzle is a must. I have one too. My dog hates the vet so he never goes in without one. The emergency vet thanked me for that. I think it’s a good safety thing because you never know if your dog will be too distressed/ out of it.

 

[TooPatient]

Ours did that too - had to put him on antibiotics. But this reminded me... I will add that I think a basket style muzzle is a must. I have one too. My dog hates the vet so he never goes in without one. The emergency vet thanked me for that. I think it’s a good safety thing because you never know if your dog will be too distressed/ out of it.

I haven't found a good baskerville muzzle yet. My two big guys have odd shaped heads so neither size we tried fit right. The one poor guy managed to shove it just a little and wedged his jaw.

I do have good fabric muzzles from the vet for them. They are sweethearts until you try to do any medical care for them then they snap fast. They always go in with the muzzle. They get to greet and give kisses then I put it on when the exam time comes. Lifesaver. They won't even let me bandage or anything so the muzzle is used for home care also. Both are rescues with difficult history...

 

[inne]

I strongly advise having something to address pain on hand. Gabapentin, NSAIDs, etc. Talk to your vet about it. It's also so hard to think about, but it's good to know exactly what to do if your animal is suffering and they need to be relieved of their pain *now*. For example, my vet told me that in a true end-of-life type of emergency, I could give my dog X number of a certain medication.

 

[Missy]

Here is a list the AVMA recommends.

First aid tips for pet owners

First aid is not a substitute for veterinary care, but it may save your pet’s life until you can get to a veterinarian.

www.avma.org

https://ebusiness.avma.org/files/productdownloads/LR_COM_ClientBroch_FirstAid_010816.pdf

I tried copying and pasting for your convenience but clicking the links might be easier to read. Just FYI.

ETA it has too many images so cannot copy and paste sorry.

For more information, visit:

www.avma.org/ rstaid

Animal Poison Control Center

aspca.org/pet-care/ animal-poison-control


www.avma.org | 800.248.2862

 

[TooPatient]

I strongly advise having something to address pain on hand. Gabapentin, NSAIDs, etc. Talk to your vet about it. It's also so hard to think about, but it's good to know exactly what to do if your animal is suffering and they need to be relieved of their pain *now*. For example, my vet told me that in a true end-of-life type of emergency, I could give my dog X number of a certain medication.

Good reminder. Yes, not easy to think about, but I would rather think about it now than have to watch any of them suffer for hours because I didn't want to talk about it.

 

[TooPatient]

Here is a list the AVMA recommends.

First aid tips for pet owners

First aid is not a substitute for veterinary care, but it may save your pet’s life until you can get to a veterinarian.

www.avma.org

https://ebusiness.avma.org/files/productdownloads/LR_COM_ClientBroch_FirstAid_010816.pdf

I tried copying and pasting for your convenience but clicking the links might be easier to read. Just FYI.

ETA it has too many images so cannot copy and paste sorry.

For more information, visit:

www.avma.org/ rstaid

Animal Poison Control Center

aspca.org/pet-care/ animal-poison-control


www.avma.org | 800.248.2862

Great list! I have almost everything on there. Just missing the activated charcoal and a stretcher.

 

[Arcadian]

because I have a greyhound, I tend to have to keep lots of things in the first aid kit that have to do with scrapes and blood....lol I keep Amicar in the kit and styptic powder. Of course , the normal providone iodine, and hibicleanse and cleaning rags. I have lots of vet wrap....lots. I have a small suture kit in case I have to use it, along with tweezers. Then there's all the the meds. Pain meds, anti anxiety meds, tummy meds, meds for diarrhea, meds to help with bloat if necessary (its just gasX), meds to get rid of fleas, meds for ticks, and even a small bottle of dip. I make my own concentrated dip which you add to a bucket of water. (please consult your vet if doing this!) I keep "rusty" in the emergency kit (at least Big Rusty, little rusty is in my car!)

She knows the sound of rusty and if she gets lost, we could use this to get her back home safely. She knows this sound, few times I moved rusty and the ears went up and she went looking.....lol

Lucky has a couple of basket muzzles which she's used to wearing. I don't keep them in the emergency kit, they're just kinda out and about in the house. I use a basket muzzle because while she can't bite, she can pant freely and also drink in it.

Like with any drug, rotation is key to keeping it fresh and useful in the kit. As much as I hate purchasing Amicar without using it, its what you have to do sometimes. I had gotten a scare with her and that stuff likely saved her life....and thats the ONLY reason why I keep that around.

 

[TooPatient]

because I have a greyhound, I tend to have to keep lots of things in the first aid kit that have to do with scrapes and blood....lol I keep Amicar in the kit and styptic powder. Of course , the normal providone iodine, and hibicleanse and cleaning rags. I have lots of vet wrap....lots. I have a small suture kit in case I have to use it, along with tweezers. Then there's all the the meds. Pain meds, anti anxiety meds, tummy meds, meds for diarrhea, meds to help with bloat if necessary (its just gasX), meds to get rid of fleas, meds for ticks, and even a small bottle of dip. I make my own concentrated dip which you add to a bucket of water. (please consult your vet if doing this!) I keep "rusty" in the emergency kit (at least Big Rusty, little rusty is in my car!)

She knows the sound of rusty and if she gets lost, we could use this to get her back home safely. She knows this sound, few times I moved rusty and the ears went up and she went looking.....lol

Lucky has a couple of basket muzzles which she's used to wearing. I don't keep them in the emergency kit, they're just kinda out and about in the house. I use a basket muzzle because while she can't bite, she can pant freely and also drink in it.

Like with any drug, rotation is key to keeping it fresh and useful in the kit. As much as I hate purchasing Amicar without using it, its what you have to do sometimes. I had gotten a scare with her and that stuff likely saved her life....and thats the ONLY reason why I keep that around.

I'm not familiar with Amicar. Quick Google search says it stops bleeding but needs a prescription. Where do you get yours?

 

[Arcadian]

I'm not familiar with Amicar. Quick Google search says it stops bleeding but needs a prescription. Where do you get yours?

I ask my vet for it. since I have a greyhound that nearly bled out, I get the prescription for it.

 

[kenny]

I have a sweet companion parrot.
IMO the most important birdie first aid supply to keep on hand is Quick Stop.
It stops bleeding.



Birds fly, so they have to be light.
To that end their bodies don't carry around much fat, blood, etc, and parrots like mine poop several times and hour.
With little spare blood, a bleeding bird doesn't have long to live.

Also, to make things worse ... birds have zillions of tubes (potential blood-straws) outside their bodies that are connected directly to their bloodstreams.
They are called blood feathers or pin feathers.



Like our hair and nails, mature feathers are dead material - no blood, no nerves.
But newly emerging feathers are little blood-filled factories where feathers gradually develop outside the body over several weeks.
At first they look like the tip of a tooth pick or knitting needle.
When the new feather is mature enough the bird nibbles open the tip, exposing what will be the far end of the feather.
Over time birdie keeps nibbling away more of the coating.
But no bird can use their beak to groom their own head, and toenails are not as good for this job as a beak.
Flock birds depend on each other to groom each others' heads .... or on their human, if well-informed.
Pin feathers are VERY sensitive.
If you're not careful you inflict great pain to the bird, and you'll get (and deserve) a painful bite.

You move slowly and when you find one you pinch the tip between a fingernail and the flesh of the thumb paying very close attention to the bird.
(S)he will let you know if the pin feather is ready to be opened up at the tip, or not.
It's an intimate trust thing.
If/when it's mastered it'll strengthen the relationship the bird has with you.
The poor bird in the pic above is likely owned by a human who is not aware that their parrot needs this grooming service.

If a growing blood feather gets broken a quick death may result from the blood loss.
A broken blood feather is like a straw draining blood out of the bird.
The largest feathers have a wide diameter and the blood moves so fast it cannot clot.

Broken blood feather first aid is to use a needle-nose pliers, right at the skin, to quickly yank it out.
Then immediately apply Quick Stop to the bleeding wound.

I'm glad I've never had to do this to one of my birdies - but I'm prepared.
Every bird owner should learn about this and be prepared.
If you can't do this and rush to the vet instead, it will probably be too late.

 

[TooPatient]

I have a sweet companion parrot.
IMO the most important birdie first aid supply to keep on hand is Quick Stop.
It stops bleeding.



Birds fly, so they have to be light.
To that end their bodies don't carry around much fat, blood, etc, and parrots like mine poop several times and hour.
With little spare blood, a bleeding bird doesn't have long to live.

Also, to make things worse ... birds have zillions of tubes (potential blood-straws) outside their bodies that are connected directly to their bloodstreams.
They are called blood feathers or pin feathers.



Like our hair and nails, mature feathers are dead material - no blood, no nerves.
But newly emerging feathers are little blood-filled factories where feathers gradually develop outside the body over several weeks.
At first they look like the tip of a tooth pick or knitting needle.
When the new feather is mature enough the bird nibbles open the tip, exposing what will be the far end of the feather.
Over time birdie keeps nibbling away more of the coating.
But no bird can use their beak to groom their own head, and toenails are not as good for this job as a beak.
Flock birds depend on each other to groom each others' heads .... or on their human, if well-informed.
Pin feathers are VERY sensitive.
If you're not careful you inflict great pain to the bird, and you'll get (and deserve) a painful bite.

You move slowly and when you find one you pinch the tip between a fingernail and the flesh of the thumb paying very close attention to the bird.
(S)he will let you know if the pin feather is ready to be opened up at the tip, or not.
It's an intimate trust thing.
If/when it's mastered it'll strengthen the relationship the bird has with you.
The poor bird in the pic above is likely owned by a human who is not aware that their parrot needs this grooming service.

If a growing blood feather gets broken a quick death may result from the blood loss.
A broken blood feather is like a straw draining blood out of the bird.
The largest feathers have a wide diameter and the blood moves so fast it cannot clot.

Broken blood feather first aid is to use a needle-nose pliers, right at the skin, to quickly yank it out.
Then immediately apply Quick Stop to the bleeding wound.

I'm glad I've never had to do this to one of my birdies - but I'm prepared.
Every bird owner should learn about this and be prepared.
If you can't do this and rush to the vet instead, it will probably be too late.

I knew a little of this from having parakeets years ago, but that is a very good explanation! Thanks for sharing. I still get upset when I see people suggest birds as an easy first pet to people wanting a pet for their kids. So much goes into their care!