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pave setting type and durability

teobdl

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
May 8, 2013
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Are certain pave types more durable than others (i.e. less prone to having a stone fall out)? I have read Leon Mege's description of the different types, but it's hard to know which is most durable: http://www.leonmege.com/index.php/rules-of-engagement/resources/pave
Also, I have no idea what "french cut pave" means: http://www.jamesallen.com/engagemen...16ct-pave-set-diamond-engagement-ring-item-18

I would assume that the skill of the setter makes more difference than anything else, but generally, are certain pave more durable than others?
 
Thanks, Neil. Their bezel halo is my absolute favorite setting, but it's a little out of my price range. That said, if it's really as durable as they say, I may just pony up and go with it. I'm also considering the plain-shank version.

I'm just surprised that, for example "bead set" --where the diamonds are abutted by walls of metal-- is not generally thought to be safer than "fishtail" where so much more seems to be exposed.
 
i used to have that bezel but with a plain shank. it was under 2k in 14k gold. Personally i found it really sturdy and i never for once had a question about wearing it during daily tasks. ITs really the only reference i have though. They say you have to be careful with any pave, or ring in general. You dont want to wear it doing some some tasks.
20130327_140849.jpg
 
French cut stones are look like a vintage version of princess-cut diamonds. Instead of the normal rounds used, the pave setting is mounted with these stones.
 
If you want a visual of pave I highly recommend VC's website. Look up his rings with different pave types and use the magnifying glass to see the differences. It will be how the diamonds are set. I perfer french pave for more antique rings.

To my knowledge I dont' believe the different types having anything to do with durability. Single cuts are more mellow in color while full cuts are more bright and icey white. As you mentioned in your first post but i want to repeat- pave is an artform. You need a master to do it or you will be missing diamonds etc. I have a pave ering from VC. I have laid sod, ran after 2 toddlers, washed dishes, etc etc in my pave rings with no problem. I have no doubt that I will probably never loose a diamond in my ring. My MIL who just got a pave reset has already lost several. Each time that happens it takes 3-4 weeks for the B&M store to ship out her ring and fix it. I personally feel it is worth the money to upgrade and get the best pave you can.
 
diamond-enthusiast|1370478828|3459768 said:
French cut stones are look like a vintage version of princess-cut diamonds. Instead of the normal rounds used, the pave setting is mounted with these stones.

OP was discussing french-cut pave, which is a style of pave and has nothing to do with french-cut stones.
 
I own the .32 French cut pave setting from JA and have worn it daily for two years without losing a single stone. I agree with Sarah that there a definitely masters out there and choosing one of them will likely decrease the risk of problems but we also hear of people that have issues with these as well...though perhaps not as often. I do think quality is the first defense against potential problems but I also think that how the ring is worn and taken care of can reduce risk as well. I should also say that while I have been pleasantly surprised with the durability my JA setting, it really cant compare visually to the work of VC SK RDG etc.
 
Thanks for your replies!

How do metal choices affect durability of pave?

I would guess Platinum/palladium > 14 kt gold > 18 kt gold. Is this so?
 
This is off VC"s website:
Strength; Platinum is roughly 60% more dense than gold. This is the reason why the same design in Platinum will be heavier than gold. Although gold can be considered stronger in the sense of it being harder to bend, the density of Platinum and its unlikelyhood of wearing away from daily wear gives it the advantage. This density can play a vital role in parts of a jewel such as prongs that hold a center stone or beading in a micro pave piece.

Durability; Platinum by its nature is more of a "chewy" metal as opposed to gold which is more brittle. Both metals scratch over time with everyday wear but with Platinum these scratches don't remove metal content from a jewel. Polishing or re-polishing of a platinum jewel will result in almost no loss of weight or metal content whereas with gold, a jewel might lose roughly 10% of its weight. Therefore a Platinum jewel can be re-polished much more safely than a gold one, that after each re-polishing wears away. This could be vital in areas such as prongs or beading on a pave piece which after re-polishing could severely weaken these prongs. A Platinum piece therefore will better stand the test of time and will be more durable than a gold jewel.

So to answer your question PLAT is preferred over gold because of the density and it's ability to sink in the melee. However, plenty of people have gold melee rings with no issue. I really think it comes down to the look you are going for. WG will need to be redipped on ocassion which can be a pain but keeps it shiney and new. PLAT will eventauly patina with a grey cast to it. Some hate the patina effect others don't mind.
 
SB621|1370534498|3460159 said:
This is off VC"s website:
Strength; Platinum is roughly 60% more dense than gold. This is the reason why the same design in Platinum will be heavier than gold. Although gold can be considered stronger in the sense of it being harder to bend, the density of Platinum and its unlikelyhood of wearing away from daily wear gives it the advantage. This density can play a vital role in parts of a jewel such as prongs that hold a center stone or beading in a micro pave piece.

Durability; Platinum by its nature is more of a "chewy" metal as opposed to gold which is more brittle. Both metals scratch over time with everyday wear but with Platinum these scratches don't remove metal content from a jewel. Polishing or re-polishing of a platinum jewel will result in almost no loss of weight or metal content whereas with gold, a jewel might lose roughly 10% of its weight. Therefore a Platinum jewel can be re-polished much more safely than a gold one, that after each re-polishing wears away. This could be vital in areas such as prongs or beading on a pave piece which after re-polishing could severely weaken these prongs. A Platinum piece therefore will better stand the test of time and will be more durable than a gold jewel.

So to answer your question PLAT is preferred over gold because of the density and it's ability to sink in the melee. However, plenty of people have gold melee rings with no issue. I really think it comes down to the look you are going for. WG will need to be redipped on ocassion which can be a pain but keeps it shiney and new. PLAT will eventauly patina with a grey cast to it. Some hate the patina effect others don't mind.

These are great points. I've found that platinum can be refurbished (ie, scratches buffed out, re-polished, etc) to look "shiny and new" again as well (if you prefer that look over the look of the patina).
 
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