Pave and halo setting questions

[kgizo]

I had this tsav in a wide band setting and found that I didn't like how it rubbed my knuckle. The tsav is a 8.9 x 8.1mm cushion. I'm thinking of going with a halo setting in white gold this time around, like the VC Emilya (pic attached for reference) and I could use your help with a few questions I have.

1. In researching online I find a lot of different terms for pave such as U cut, U cut shallow, fishtail, and V cut. However, I can't find anything that explains the differences between them. Are these terms industry standards, or do they mean the same thing and the vendors just like to use different words? If they mean different types of pave is there a resource where I can get the exact definition of each?

2. I was planning on going with 14K for cost reasons. Is this good for a pave halo ring, or do I need to go with a stronger metal like platinum?

3. I realize the halo will darken the stone a little, but I'm assuming not too much. Do you have any concerns with it making the stone look too dark? I love the current color, and wouldn't want it to go a whole shade darker. Sorry for the fingerprint on the stone in the pics. I can take more pics if that would help.

 

[marymm]

For detailed info re: diamond pave, I'd ask the Moderators to move this thread over to Rocky Talky (hit Report Concern) - the diamond gurus really know their stuff over there. Meanwhile, I did a quick PS search and will post this thread which seems to have some good links - https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/different-pave-types.67434/

For diamond pave, I do believe Platinum is considered the best/wisest choice, but again I'll leave it to the experts at RT to comment fully on this.

To get an idea of how dark the Tsav might go in a halo, wrap some aluminum foil around it - a lot of halo styles are fairly open underneath the stone, so light will still get to the Tsav that way - only you can decide if a halo would make it darker than your preference.

Good luck with your project!

 

[chrono]

I think if you want to go with the fancy pave such as U cut, V cut and etc, it is best to stick to handmade but this route is also the most expensive, running at least $4K and upwards. You would also need to go with a stronger metal such as platinum. I agree that the RT folks eat and drink all sorts of pave day in/out and would be the best to steer you in the right direction.

Depending on how enclosed the gallery is, it could deepen the tsavorite by a shade. I concur with Marymm to cup the stone in the palm of your hand to see the effect. If you foil the pavilion, it is almost the same as bezeling it in a white metal, which is the worst case scenario.

 

[kgizo]

Thank you both for the information. I will try out those suggestions. I've also ask the mods to move the thread. Have a great day!

 

[Gypsy]

Please read this on why pave is fragile and while platinum is the best choice: [URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/which-online-retailer-for-a-custom-setting.203660/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/which-online-retailer-for-a-custom-setting.203660/[/URL]

 

[kgizo]

Thanks for the link, Gypsy. I've been researching all weekend.

I have a question about the halo width vs the shank width. Some halos are set at an angle, which I prefer. Should the halo width visually or actually match the shank in this case? For example, I want a 2mm shank. If the halo is 2mm and angled, won't it look thinner than 2mm because of the tilt? If the halo width is increased so that it looks the same as the shank,what about the size of the melees? For example, if the angled halo width becomes 2.3mm do the melee size increase? I'm not sure if it is more visually pleasing to have the shank/halo width match or shank/halo melee size match. I hope I'm explaining this clearly. Thanks for any insight anyone can provide.