Hello all, and happy 4th of July!
I'm working with David Klass on my first custom piece of jewelry (eee!) and would love any input on this CAD before we finalize. This is going to be a right hand ring featuring a beautiful 3.14ct lab-created oval vivid cobalt spinel, precision-cut by Jeff Davies, with lab diamond (F, VS) sidestones, set in platinum. The color of the stone is great, like a beautiful royal blue sapphire got a little zap. In the least flattering light it goes inky but still visibly blue, and in the most flattering light it POPS!
Style goals for the piece/setting:
Practical goals:
Inspiration:
I was most inspired by this incredible vintage ruby ring by Van Cleef & Arpels, though the center stone is a real honker, so of course the proportions are adjusted for my stone. I also like this sapphire piece from 1stdibs, though the sidestones are larger than I'd prefer for my own piece, and I'd prefer more standard prongs than that interesting shared prong situation connecting the sidestones.
Here's the CAD!
The design we've landed on feels to me like good proportions, with a nice gentle slop/graduation from the center to the sidestones. What do folks think?
I'm happy with the gallery, I don't need anything decorative there, would rather prioritize maintenance ease.
My biggest questions:
1. Thoughts on prong placement for the marquise stones? Most designs I see have prongs on the tips, presumably to protect them (for some reason I basically never see V-prongs in styles like this, interestingly), but this CAD goes with the more unusual (but cool) VC&A prong placement. Perhaps these diamond tips may not be at as much risk because their arrangement sort of...tucks them in?
2. Do we like the double claw prongs, or do folks think the spinel needs/would benefit from 6 prongs? Seems it'd be dicey to figure out the placement of the latter with the sidestones.
3. It looks like the marquise will not overhang on the hand, right? I want to see metal on either side of the sidestones, nothing poking into my other fingers.
Thanks for your attention, and I'd love any thoughts/comments/recommendations!
I'm working with David Klass on my first custom piece of jewelry (eee!) and would love any input on this CAD before we finalize. This is going to be a right hand ring featuring a beautiful 3.14ct lab-created oval vivid cobalt spinel, precision-cut by Jeff Davies, with lab diamond (F, VS) sidestones, set in platinum. The color of the stone is great, like a beautiful royal blue sapphire got a little zap. In the least flattering light it goes inky but still visibly blue, and in the most flattering light it POPS!
Style goals for the piece/setting:
- elegant and unfussy, special-feeling but not showy (I want to be able to wear this casually, and at work, and I work in a hospital)
- highlighting the center stone while also avoiding getting too engagement/solitaire, so aiming for sidestones with presence, but not overshadowing the center
- classic but non-ubiquitous
- subtly floral
- claw prongs
Practical goals:
- as low a profile as possible given the depth of the stone
- durability and ease of maintenance in mind (acknowledging this is spinel, of course)
- ideally no catching on sweaters, hair, etc (though I imagine this has as much to do with prong craftsmanship as it does with design)
Inspiration:
I was most inspired by this incredible vintage ruby ring by Van Cleef & Arpels, though the center stone is a real honker, so of course the proportions are adjusted for my stone. I also like this sapphire piece from 1stdibs, though the sidestones are larger than I'd prefer for my own piece, and I'd prefer more standard prongs than that interesting shared prong situation connecting the sidestones.
Here's the CAD!
The design we've landed on feels to me like good proportions, with a nice gentle slop/graduation from the center to the sidestones. What do folks think?
I'm happy with the gallery, I don't need anything decorative there, would rather prioritize maintenance ease.
My biggest questions:
1. Thoughts on prong placement for the marquise stones? Most designs I see have prongs on the tips, presumably to protect them (for some reason I basically never see V-prongs in styles like this, interestingly), but this CAD goes with the more unusual (but cool) VC&A prong placement. Perhaps these diamond tips may not be at as much risk because their arrangement sort of...tucks them in?
2. Do we like the double claw prongs, or do folks think the spinel needs/would benefit from 6 prongs? Seems it'd be dicey to figure out the placement of the latter with the sidestones.
3. It looks like the marquise will not overhang on the hand, right? I want to see metal on either side of the sidestones, nothing poking into my other fingers.
Thanks for your attention, and I'd love any thoughts/comments/recommendations!
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