OEC EXPERTS, HELP!!! Chipped girdle on my heirloom stone

[alisonia333]

Hi everybody, I need some advice.

I used a diamond of my grandmother's in my engagement ring, an early OEC. I noticed recently that there is some sort of abrasion on the girdle, what looks like a chip. There is a feather extending 3mm along the girdle of the stone that has always been there, but I think this girdle chip is new. I am worried that I've damaged it banging my ring around and I'm worried about doing further damage. I don't know if it is now more prone to chipping or not. I can't really get a good picture where it shows the tiny little chip, just the sort of scratch-like abrasion. I am wondering if it's possible to get the girdle polished or possibly rehabbed in some way, or if it's too big a risk because of the placement of the feather. I obviously wouldn't chose a stone with such risky inclusions, but since this is my grandmother's it chose me. I have two close up photos BEFORE I noticed the chip. I honestly don't really know what I'm looking at in terms of inclusions and/or damage...I don't have an experienced eye. I'm not really sure if this was existing damage made worse...a chip an inclusion coming to the surface...I don't know. The first two photos are "befores" and the rest of them are my best attempt at getting a close up of the inclusions/damage. What are my options and what do the experts suggest? PLEASE HELP! Also, any idea if insurance covers any "repair" costs? Here are the stats I have on the stone:
Shape and Cut: Old European
Measurements: 7.35 x 7.13 x 4.42 mm
Weight: 1.50 carats
Proportions: Fair
Depth: 61.0%
Table: 41.6%
Girdle: Thin to thick; average slightly thick
Culet: Extremely large
Finish
Polish: Good
Symmetry: Fair
Clarity: I-1
Comments: Feather on girdle extends approximately 3 mm.
Color: K, brownish
Fluorescence: None (lw), none (sw)

Thank you so much!
Edited to add stats.

 

[alisonia333]

More pics.

 

[alisonia333]

Last one

 

[GemFever]

It's a beautiful stone! I love that faceting. I think the chip looks fixable, but to know for sure a professional needs to see it in person. I believe BGD & Single Stone are recommended for repolishing, maybe also GOG though I'm not sure. I hope someone can chime in whether insurance can cover the expenses.

I've chipped a sapphire before, which is also a pretty hard stone. It kind of bums you out, realizing these stones are not invincible. But it's just part of life, part of wearing and enjoying the stone.

 

[alisonia333]

It's a beautiful stone! I love that faceting. I think the chip looks fixable, but to know for sure a professional needs to see it in person. I believe BGD & Single Stone are recommended for repolishing, maybe also GOG though I'm not sure. I hope someone can chime in whether insurance can cover the expenses.

I've chipped a sapphire before, which is also a pretty hard stone. It kind of bums you out, realizing these stones are not invincible. But it's just part of life, part of wearing and enjoying the stone.

Thank you! I love the petals under the tiny, tiny table and the kozibe. These pictures definitely don't show off its beauty, it's a real stunner on a sunny day! I have a relationship with BGD already, but I wish I could go somewhere in person and sit with someone who could evaluate it right there. I wonder if it's worth a trip all the way to long island to go to GOG...I could do a trip to the city fairly easily, but long island is like...haha. I was so bummed, I'm afraid it's gonna crack in half every time I touch something! I would have to get the stone unset and then ship it to BGD and then wait to see what they say. Do you have a ballpark idea of cost for polishing/recutting? I'm stressed :/

 

[CharmyPoo]

That looks like a chip on the crown. I think it will cost around $300 - $500 to repair.

 

[GemFever]

Charmy's price estimate sounds about right.

If you can make it into NYC, consider contacting some of the major diamond dealers who are in the city, maybe the PS-favored vendors. Maybe they could help?

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Good Old Gold would be a good resource if you are in NY. I think your stone and setting are beautiful, but you might consider setting it in a bezel rather than prongs to better protect the area with the feather.

 

[alisonia333]

Charmy: yes, I guess it is the crown, but it sort of extends to the girdle. I think I need to bone up on my diamond anatomy! Thanks for the price estimate, that's doable. I hope I don't have to have to have it recut, I'm afraid it will change the stone's appearance.

Gemfever: I think an NYC trip would be a good idea. I'd love to not have to touch the stone, so I really need some trustworthy advise about how vulnerable the stone is as is. The flaws aren't visible unless you look at it from a few inches at certain angles, so I'm not so concerned about it from a cosmetic standpoint, just a durability one.

Diamondseeker: I probably should have bezeled it for security, but I like prong-set better in terms of appearance and in terms of light performance (though I guess this depends on who you ask). When I designed the setting, the jeweler didn't tell me it was unsafe...if they had, that would have been a different story. I imagine the halo gives it at least some protection and my fiance can't afford a new setting, anyway. I am going to stop wearing it at work (a medical clinic, where I'm constantly using my hands, washing my hands, etc).

So GOG, singlestone and BDG are all on the list of places to consult. Anyone specific in the NYC DD? I don't know of anyone other than IDJ and I haven't heard of them cutting, am I wrong?

 

[CharmyPoo]

If it isn't close by your feather, I highly doubt it will be a durability issue. My OEC had a number of chips on the girdle that I thought looked horrible but I took it to a bunch of people who all told me that it won't be a durability issue. I still fixed it for my own sake because the chips made it an SI and now it is a VVS (GIA grading).

They are going to have to polish (or re-cut) at least that area of the chip if you want to fix it. There aren't magical ways unfortunately and you will lose weight. I have no idea how much you would loose but I lost 0.1 ct when I fixed my chips but I was told it was well worth it.

I would not trust an old cut diamond to just anyone as many will want to recut it to a modern RB. You need someone that appreciates an old stone. Adam at Old World Diamonds was so kind to do this for me but they don't usually fix up stones that aren't theirs - he did it for me because I was trying to buy a diamond for him. I am very glad to get to know him better because he is awesome.

I would consider GOG, Singlestone, and JbEG's cutter. I would also be comfortable going to Barry Rogoff (http://wecutdiamonds.com) but he is in LA. I went to him to recut a diamond and found out that he LOVES old cuts!! Last but not least, ERD may be an option as well since they have access to a diamond cutting factory - Mark was so kind to take me on a tour there!

 

[alisonia333]

If it isn't close by your feather, I highly doubt it will be a durability issue. My OEC had a number of chips on the girdle that I thought looked horrible but I took it to a bunch of people who all told me that it won't be a durability issue. I still fixed it for my own sake because the chips made it an SI and now it is a VVS (GIA grading).

They are going to have to polish (or re-cut) at least that area of the chip if you want to fix it. There aren't magical ways unfortunately and you will lose weight. I have no idea how much you would loose but I lost 0.1 ct when I fixed my chips but I was told it was well worth it.

I would not trust an old cut diamond to just anyone as many will want to recut it to a modern RB. You need someone that appreciates an old stone. Adam at Old World Diamonds was so kind to do this for me but they don't usually fix up stones that aren't theirs - he did it for me because I was trying to buy a diamond for him. I am very glad to get to know him better because he is awesome.

I would consider GOG, Singlestone, and JbEG's cutter. I would also be comfortable going to Barry Rogoff (http://wecutdiamonds.com) but he is in LA. I went to him to recut a diamond and found out that he LOVES old cuts!! Last but not least, ERD may be an option as well since they have access to a diamond cutting factory - Mark was so kind to take me on a tour there!

Thank you so much! It's definitely a shame to dip under the 1.5ct mark, although I'm not ever going to sell this stone, so I suppose it doesn't really matter. Since resale/grading isn't a concern, I would just as soon not recut/polish, but I will absolutely if it will make my diamond safer. I actually walked by Singlestone in LA and was too intimidated to go in! We did a quick DD visit when we were visiting my fiance's parents last thanksgiving, but I got totally overwhelmed. I'd love to meet with somebody in person, so it sounds like GOG would be best geographically. I'm good with them as long as they don't try to cut my OEC into an AVR! I've read about and admired your new OEC, and that gorgeous setting it came in. The diamond is obviously absolutely gorgeous and it's definitely pretty cool it's VVS quality...how rare is that in an old cut?! Thanks again for the advice.

 

[chrono]

Chips on the girdle usually do not pose a structural issue and if minor, can be polished off without much ado. The recommendation for bezeling old cut stones is because many have extremely thin or very thin girdles which increases the risk of girdle damage.

 

[lin_ny]

In the macro 'before' picture, I see the chip at about 3 o'clock. Or what looks like the chip.

Maybe it's been there all along?

 

[IE_Princess]

Good eye!

 

[alisonia333]

In the macro 'before' picture, I see the chip at about 3 o'clock. Or what looks like the chip.

Maybe it's been there all along?

Yeah, something has been there all along, but I think I made it worse! That's why I'm really concerned. I'm afraid it's going to get even worse. I'm not sure what's on the opposite side of the stone. Is that the feather? I can't tell whether it breaks the surface or not.

Chips on the girdle usually do not pose a structural issue and if minor, can be polished off without much ado. The recommendation for bezeling old cut stones is because many have extremely thin or very thin girdles which increases the risk of girdle damage.

My girdle is thin to thick, so not ideal, but there aren't "extremely thin" areas. Now I'm concerned about the feather inclusion as well as that abrasion on the crown/girdle. I think maybe what I'll do first is bring it to the gemologist who did the sarin and graded it and see if he did an inclusion plot originally (I didn't see one and didn't know to ask at that time). That way I can find out if something has changed since then (I really feel like it has, but I could be wrong). If something has, I will bring it to NYC and consult with GOG and maybe ERD.

Any other suggestions in the DD?

 

[CharmyPoo]

There are some diamond cutters I found online but I have no idea how good they are or not.

GOG will not force cut your stone into an AVR. I was in the same situation - I do like the AVR but I didn't want to change my stone because I loved it the way it was. I miss it so much ... I haven't seen it in months and won't see it until August.

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Of course they wouldn't try to force you to recut into an AVR. If they offered, you'd say absolutely not since it is an heirloom stone and that would be the end of it. He doesn't even cut all of the OEC's he has into AVR's. He leaves the better ones alone because they can be sold at a lower price point.

 

[Dreamer_D]

You could also consider just resetting the diamond into a more protective setting. A prong set bezel similar to mine, or a full bezel perhaps. Your diamond is fairly well protected in its current mount, but the girdle is above the plane of the halo which left it vulnerable.

I am not sure about the thickness of my own diamond's girdle but it is not faceted, that I know. But its very protected in the style of mount I have (see below). You could find similar, and it would be in keeping with the era of your stone.

In these types of mounts the girdle rests below the plane of the metal "bezel" so its totally protected.

My mount:



Singlestone halo (former mount of twosanguinehearts)



JBEG have a similar mount for sale in white gold for $1500 now that would likely hold your diamond:

http://jewelsbyericagrace.smugmug.com/Jewelry/Mountings/Antique-Art-Deco-Filigree/21760538_gV3BGd#!i=1734627178&k=rMM939j

 

[diamondseeker2006]

She said they couldn't buy a new setting. But does anyone know if a bezel could be added to the current setting?

($1500??? yikes)

 

[alisonia333]

You could also consider just resetting the diamond into a more protective setting. A prong set bezel similar to mine, or a full bezel perhaps. Your diamond is fairly well protected in its current mount, but the girdle is above the plane of the halo which left it vulnerable.

I am not sure about the thickness of my own diamond's girdle but it is not faceted, that I know. But its very protected in the style of mount I have (see below). You could find similar, and it would be in keeping with the era of your stone.

In these types of mounts the girdle rests below the plane of the metal "bezel" so its totally protected.

My mount:



Singlestone halo (former mount of twosanguinehearts)



JBEG have a similar mount for sale in white gold for $1500 now that would likely hold your diamond:

http://jewelsbyericagrace.smugmug.com/Jewelry/Mountings/Antique-Art-Deco-Filigree/21760538_gV3BGd#!i=1734627178&k=rMM939j

Buying a whole new setting is not something I can really do now. I'm pretty sure my fiance had to stretch to custom make the current one, and I don't think he has thousands of dollars to spare to replace it. I do love your setting and diamond! The jbeg is pretty, but I wouldn't go with white gold for my engagement ring.

She said they couldn't buy a new setting. But does anyone know if a bezel could be added to the current setting?

($1500??? yikes)

If my setting could be modified fairly inexpensively it would definitely be something I'd consider...I don't know if it's possible, especially because the diamond set as low to the shank as possible right now (that's what I requested) and the crown is all above the halo. Since the diamond can't be lowered into the halo, a bezel would have to sort of come up out of the halo to encircle the diamond, which would just be a big line of metal from the side and fairly unattractive, I think. I don't know enough about jewelery making to know if it's possible to do it some other way. This is all so stressful!

 

[Dreamer_D]

Well a recut is going to run into the $500 range plus shipping to and fro plus unsetting and resetting. There will be a cost either way. Personally I would rather reset than risk my stone. Plus, if the recut changes the outline of the diamond it may not work in the current mount anyways.

You can find similar mounts on ebay for $750 but it takes luck and patience. True hand made vintage mounts with the type of gallery work in that JBEG mount cost a fair bit. But a modern repro would cost $3000

I doubt that your stone is at risk Alisonia. Go see a local appraiser first and see what he or she says. If your ring is insured, call your insurance and see if they cover the fix. Don't borrow trouble getting all worried about this when you don't have the facts! I have seen MUCH worse girdle damage on old cuts and had gemologists tell me that the damage is not a worry to the integrity of the stone.

 

[alisonia333]

Well a recut is going to run into the $500 range plus shipping to and fro plus unsetting and resetting. There will be a cost either way. Personally I would rather reset than risk my stone. Plus, if the recut changes the outline of the diamond it may not work in the current mount anyways.

You can find similar mounts on ebay for $750 but it takes luck and patience. True hand made vintage mounts with the type of gallery work in that JBEG mount cost a fair bit. But a modern repro would cost $3000

I doubt that your stone is at risk Alisonia. Go see a local appraiser first and see what he or she says. If your ring is insured, call your insurance and see if they cover the fix. Don't borrow trouble getting all worried about this when you don't have the facts! I have seen MUCH worse girdle damage on old cuts and had gemologists tell me that the damage is not a worry to the integrity of the stone.

This makes me feel much better, thank you. I see an Arthur Demello listed under trusted appraisers in Boston, and I will give him a call because I'm going to be in Boston later this week. I wonder if the insurance company would consider a chip wear and tear...I would imagine they would. Of course, if I could point to a particular instance of banging my hand against something, maybe they would consider it an incident. I mean, I don't want to lie, but I do bang my hands around a bit I think I'll call that appraiser, get the facts and contact the insurance if it turns out I need to do something that will cost money! I'm glad to hear you've seen worse damage, it looks so scary under the loupe, but I can barely find it with my unaided eyes. Thank you so much!

 

[diamondloveaffair]

doesn't look like a serious chip. Don't worry too much about it. These are pretty common.

 

[alisonia333]

doesn't look like a serious chip. Don't worry too much about it. These are pretty common.

Thanks, I'm feeling a bit better about it. My concern really is whether or not the stone will be prone to chipping further. I also really wish I knew whether or not I did something that caused it, or whether I only just noticed something that has been there all along. Maybe the appraiser can give me some idea.

 

[Dreamer_D]

I think the appraiser can help, so put your worries on pause until you see him.

I have most definitely see worse under the loupe! And I believe you when you say you can't see it in real life. I have seen -- not seen! -- the same on many of the little prettied I have loved over the last 18 months. The key is whether the damage is purely external to the stone or whether it spreads internally. MY guess is that it is external and no problem, so I will be curious to see what the appraiser tells you.

Who is your insurance provider? A chip is not wear and tear on high end diamond jewelery and I would hope they would not argue that. The only problem could be if the inclusions were not plotted by your original appraiser. So, that is something you might want. It also helps to have super macro photography of your gems. All of it helps establish the like-kind-and-quality that your insurance is supposed to maintain.

 

[alisonia333]

I think the appraiser can help, so put your worries on pause until you see him.

I have most definitely see worse under the loupe! And I believe you when you say you can't see it in real life. I have seen -- not seen! -- the same on many of the little prettied I have loved over the last 18 months. The key is whether the damage is purely external to the stone or whether it spreads internally. MY guess is that it is external and no problem, so I will be curious to see what the appraiser tells you.

Who is your insurance provider? A chip is not wear and tear on high end diamond jewelery and I would hope they would not argue that. The only problem could be if the inclusions were not plotted by your original appraiser. So, that is something you might want. It also helps to have super macro photography of your gems. All of it helps establish the like-kind-and-quality that your insurance is supposed to maintain.

I have it insured through state farm on its own policy. It's good to know a chip is not considered wear and tear for a diamond...which reminds me I don't have a copy of my policy and I probably should request one. I will talk to the gemologist at the jeweler who made the setting about an inclusion plot. I wish I had macro photos of the stone right after it was unset from the brooch where it lived before, but that's neither here nor there at this point. I will cross my fingers that it is external and poses no structural risks and will update this thread when I have more info! Thanks for the reassurance, I will put worrying on hold

 

[Huldak]

Good luck Alison. By the way I have used in the Boston area Jeff Averbrook at Metro Appraisers.

 

[diamondseeker2006]

doesn't look like a serious chip. Don't worry too much about it. These are pretty common.

Many of your replies make it sound like you are a trade member. I take it you know you have to identify yourself as trade if you work in the jewelry industry in any way?

 

[diamondseeker2006]

Good luck Alison. By the way I have used in the Boston area Jeff Averbrook at Metro Appraisers.

Oh, yes, please do use Jeff!!! He has a great reputation here!

 

[alisonia333]

Good luck Alison. By the way I have used in the Boston area Jeff Averbrook at Metro Appraisers.

Oh, yes, please do use Jeff!!! He has a great reputation here!

I will call him for a quote! Thank you for the recommendation, it's much appreciated.