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New CBI DBTY/Station Necklace project. Could use some design help.

Discussion in 'RockyTalky' started by SandyinAnaheim, Jan 2, 2019.

  1. SandyinAnaheim
    Brilliant_Rock

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    by SandyinAnaheim » Jan 2, 2019
    Hi all. After all these years, this is my second post on RT. :roll2: I've got the main idea down, but I could really use some ideas on design.

    I am embarking on my second custom project, the first being my ER/WB from HPD/CBI. I have been on the hunt for a particular type of DBTY necklace, which would likely only be custom-made. I want bigger and fewer stones than what traditional DBTY necklaces have, with a larger center.

    I contacted a few PS vendors about the side stones and after deliberating for a few weeks, I noticed that HPD had a few small stones in the color range I could afford for this project, H-J, and so I contacted my good buddy @Wink to see what we could work out. Turns out he had enough stock to provide me with 6 smaller side stones, +/- 40 pointers, one of which was still being cut. So currently I have 1 x .36, 3 x .38, 1 x .40, and 1 x .41. I've reserved the center stone as well, which happens to be a CBI 1.09 J SI2. It appears to be really eye clean, and most importantly, affordable for my project. There's a K 1.16 VS2 in the pipelines right now that may be a better option, within just a very few dollars. Wink is going to inspect the J when he gets it to verify it's my best option.

    As to design, I'm not practiced or experienced. The lovely @stonewell said that she would be kind enough to introduce me to DK in LA, with whom she has a very good working relationship.

    So here are my current ideas and parameters. Your feedback is welcome.

    1. I am looking at setting in yellow or rose gold. I own no rose gold ATM. The yellow gold I own is incredibly deep-colored. My most major piece is a 35 oz 18k YG multi-strand rope bracelet my grandfather made for my mother in the late 50s in Cuba. I have never seen gold of this color, until I found Indian gold in NJ. I have several pieces of 22k Indian jewelry that is just so rich and lush in its color, there's really nothing like it. That's what I'm aiming for in both the chain and setting. I have zero aversion to mixing metals, so that is not a concern.

    2. I know that a lot of people like those gossamer, near invisible, thin chains for DBTY necklaces so that the diamonds look like they are floating on the skin. I much prefer diamond cut chains that have a bit of glimmer to them as they move. I have a YG Singapore chain, which is like a thin twisted rope, this will not work. I also have a WG diamond cut cable chain, it's beautiful because it's always glimmering somehow. I love and enjoy that.

    3. I am not super-fond of bezels. I've seen a lot of beautiful bezels, most recently, @Weecam's new CBI pendant in two tone gold. IT IS GORGEOUS with delicate millegrain, it's just lovely. But I just don't like encased diamonds. My ER/WB set is in shared U-Prongs with totally exposed diamonds from the sides. I prefer something like buttercups, but not buttercups per se. In other words, I haven't hammered out this detail yet. Something that suspends the culet from my skin and doesn't flip around on me, those are my basic requirements, with a slightly ornate backing.

    4. I want something somewhat ornate for the center stone. I would like to use CvB's Cora/Maradith as inspiration, especially the scroll work on the Cora. I LOVE antique pieces, and to me, those look like modern day antiques. I also ADORE the brushed gold concept on those settings. I think I want that.

    5. I wanted this to be an everyday necklace. But let's be serious, I'm a mobile groomer. Can I really show up at a client's house wearing nearly 4 tcw around my neck, plus my earrings, rings and bangle and have people think, yeah, she works really hard and I should tip her (so she can buy more diamonds, of course)? I'm in a quandary about this. I'm thinking I should have extenders made so I can shorten the necklace when I want it seen as a statement, and then lengthened for when I am working, and perhaps only the top two or four stones are showing. They are CBIS, so they WILL be amazing. And I may actually end up adding 2 or 4 more stones to the necklace, if HPD can get them, as I've wiped them out in my color range.

    So these are all my thoughts, and I hope some of you will read through this long boring summary and provide me some advices or opinions. I know that @KristinTech and @Wewechew will, as they asked me to post. ;)2

    Thank you in advance everyone and Happy New Year!
     
    


    


  2. yssie
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    by yssie » Jan 2, 2019
    Indian 22k is alloyed primarily with Cu. US-made 22k is usually alloyed with Au and by comparison tends to have a greenish cast (especially in natural light). Talk with your vendor about 18k alloy options if you go the YG route :))

    I think with your larger-than-DBTY-norm stones a more visually substantial chain will be lovely :kiss2:

    How do you feel about non-bezel halos? Engraved bezels?
    I think flipping is inevitable, so you’ll want to choose a style that doesn’t protrude too much face-forward either - you want to reduce both front-loading of weight and discomfort when the motif is backward...

    My general philosophy on this is “buy what you want most and the opportunities to enjoy them will find you” ::)

     
  3. AV_
    Ideal_Rock

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    by AV_ » Jan 2, 2019
    Re. design.

    I'd have two worries:

    - that the larger-than-a-dot diamonds do not flip; and some type of bar chain (that does not accomodate torsion) would help

    -
    that each setting is sufficiently strong/stiff/shape-holding with or without a 'bezel' ring (ps) depending on the size of the stones; this leaves to the imagination how to arrange the wires that are the prongs around the stone, keeping in mind the above-mentioned flipping problem: perhaps just an X crossed beneath the culet, with four tips reaching up & holding the girdle as prongs.

    thinking out loud

    I suppose that such considerations are behind the fairly intricate designs of 'diamond chains' - a breed of subtle necklace; I've always imagined that they take about as much work as - making a chain, only less boring.

    _
    by 'bezel' ring - I man a circle of metal that parallels the girdle outline, not necessarily encasing it
     
    Last edited: Jan 2, 2019
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  4. Wewechew
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    Last edited: Jan 2, 2019
    


    


  5. KristinTech
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    by KristinTech » Jan 2, 2019
    You are in good hands, @SandyinAnaheim ! I can’t wait to see how it works out. I think you’re smart how you bolded the word “current,” since our ideas do morph and change over time & research!

    I love the idea of being able to shorten it or lengthen it depending on your activity. The yellow gold sounds delicious. :appl:

    I want a picture/video of all those CBIs lined up. :lol-2: Can you imagine the fireworks show of this finished piece?!
     
  6. SandyinAnaheim
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    by SandyinAnaheim » Jan 2, 2019
    Thanks @yssie, but I'm unclear what "Cu" and Au" are. A greenish cast would DEF not do. I mentioned this only to describe the color of gold I would prefer. The Italian gold my grandfather used and the Indian gold I have both have a similar tonality that I very much enjoy. I'll take a picture this evening to show what I mean. I don't own any rose gold and don't know how that would look, I would have to see that in person and see how it looks with the Js.

    That's good to hear! I don't want a much thicker chain, I want one that glimmers as it moves. That's what I find lovely about the WG one that I have. Every movement creates a little sparkle somewhere, and I find that a very attractive element rather than just a lifeless chain.

    To be honest, I am not a halo fan, if by halo you mean little diamonds surrounding the main diamond. And I don't know about engraved bezels. Could you post some pictures of what you mean please?

    I was afraid of this, but think that front loading of weight is a virtual reality given the size of the stones.

    Yes, this is why I went back and forth for nearly a year trying to decide what I really wanted. I ordered up a couple of different DBTYs to see if I would be satisfied with them, and I wasn't. One had 20 pointers and the other had lots of 5 pointers. While they were both lovely in their own way, they felt average and cookie cutter to me, and I got over the thrill of having it within minutes. They did not spark joy. I kept returning to my original idea of having larger stones, but have never found anything pre-made that satisfies my vision.
     
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  7. SandyinAnaheim
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    by SandyinAnaheim » Jan 2, 2019
    That's REALLY beautiful @Wewechew!! I'll have to read that thread this evening. Something like that could REALLY work! Yep, I took everything HPD had and will likely add 2 more in the future. I asked if I could get some more and was told that the smaller stones don't come around that often, so we'll see. I actually got really lucky with the larger J as it had just come into inventory in late Dec, the AGS report is dated 12.18.18.
     
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  8. SandyinAnaheim
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    by SandyinAnaheim » Jan 2, 2019
    Thanks @KristinTech. Here is a video of the smaller stones. This does not include one .38 I have in my possession, and includes a .34 E on the far right that I chose to drop in order to apply those funds to a bigger center. In person, I'm sure I would've been able to see the difference in color between E and J, but in this video.... I'll see if I can get @Wink to take a new video for me when he gets the 1.09, flanked by the 5 smaller stones he is currently holding.
    http://handshake2.jivesystems.com/videos/ieafeofarp?tag=93565
     
  9. Weecam
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    by Weecam » Jan 2, 2019
    46FFA190-EC4C-41F2-90DC-B8F7DE1507BC.jpeg 45D3232E-423E-442E-B152-7D3F8C52143E.jpeg

    I've seen a lot of beautiful bezels, most recently, @Weecam's new CBI pendant in two tone gold. IT IS GORGEOUS with delicate millegrain, it's just lovely.


    Thank you! I took a picture of the back so you can see that it’s a very delicate bezel and most of the diamond is visible. :kiss2:

    I look forward to reading your journey. You’re in good hands.
     
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  10. new-beginning
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    by new-beginning » Jan 2, 2019
    Thanks @yssie, but I'm unclear what "Cu" and Au" are = Cu is the chemical symbol for Copper, Au, is for gold.
     
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  11. Indylady
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    by Indylady » Jan 2, 2019
    Whoa, love that very secure setting!
     
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  12. KristinTech
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    by KristinTech » Jan 2, 2019
    Gorgeous! The E really surprised me, I could see that it was brighter/whiter, but I’m with Wink— “I’m not seeing it, baby girl.” So beautiful!
     
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  13. Indylady
    Ideal_Rock

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    by Indylady » Jan 2, 2019
    First of all, this necklace sounds incredible!!

    On this issue, I will note that I work in an office and don't know the life of a mobile groomer (I am a fellow dog lover though!), but as long as the necklace is secure and you're not worried about loosing it in the activity, I would try to wear and it and see how it goes.

    On one hand, I actually find that people really rarely notice bling. I've worn 2.6 ctw studs and literally no one ever has commented besides friends that knew I'd just bought them. I just started wearing a 1.5ct halo RHR with a blank left ring finger--again, no comments, no one really even looks. Your area may be more bling-centric than mine, but shockingly, no one really seems to notice my bling.

    On the other hand, I actually do notice bling even if no one notices mine, lol. Would I personally change how I tip based on that? Absolutely not. I tip as a baseline and extra depending on the quality of service. I've never once changed that based on anything other service--not looks, not diamonds, not clothes, not shoes, etc. Its never even struck me to think of that. Could someone else get a little green eyed about it, and therefore tip less? Yes, its very possible, but I sure hope more people think like me than not. I will also note that I notice rings waay more than I notice necklaces, especially DBTY, maybe in part because there are a lot of fakies out there. Not at all saying that DBTY's look fake or anything like that--absolutely not and I have some DBTY dangly earrings that I'd like to re-purpose into a necklace myself, but just that there are fakies in that style (as there are fakie halos and studs and everything else), so that may give you a little more incognito factor as well.

    Also just watched that diamond video--WOWOW. I NEED a CBI now. I was on the hunt for a particular CS, but your CBI video may have just caused me to switch up my priorities.
     
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  14. SandyinAnaheim
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    by SandyinAnaheim » Jan 2, 2019
    Yes, they're all beautiful, I'm very excited that I've finally committed and making this go forward. @Wink wrote me today that he is expecting the 1.09 in by or before Friday and he said he would send me a video. I asked for one with all the stones too. :dance:

    In that video, the third and last stones look equally light and bright to me. The .38 I have in hand is gorgeous, very little body tint. I tried to capture some of the tint with my camera and couldn't.
     
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  15. SandyinAnaheim
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    by SandyinAnaheim » Jan 2, 2019
    @new-beginning Thank you! After thinking about it this morning, I thought it might be an element, but I don't remember my elements table from school unfortunately.
     
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  16. yssie
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    by yssie » Jan 2, 2019
    It is, and thank you for bringing my typo to my attention - I meant Ag (silver), not Au.

    Sorry about that folks! You want the primary alloy component to be copper rather than silver if you like that high-karat Indian/Italian gold richness :))
     
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  17. SandyinAnaheim
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    by SandyinAnaheim » Jan 2, 2019
    Thank you so much! I'm not afraid of losing it. Some dogs are very active and their paws have sometimes gotten caught in my current chain, but no mishaps, thankfully.

    I agree, for the most part. I have a lot of clients that notice and say nothing, but their eyes linger. I also have clients that say nice things, and others that don't notice. Out of 147 clients, I only have 2 that appreciate jewelry AND talk about it. And one of those copies some of the things I buy. I bought diamond studs in 2 sizes, next time I saw her, she had purchased two pairs like mine. I wore my real ER/WB to work one day because I forgot to take them off from an event the night before, and the next time I saw her, she had a 7 stone WB like mine. Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, so I encourage her to run with her ideas. Today she saw my new bangle and oohed and ahhed over it, so she'll probably have one next time I see her.

    I'm just like you, I notice EVERYTHING that glitters....the reason I think someone might treat me differently is because of a conversation I overheard when I was still working at a law office. I had just gotten my engagement ring and even though this girl had never mentioned anything about the ring, I heard her talking to someone else about how I must be making twice as much money as she was to be able to drive the car I was driving and to have "that rock" on my hand. Mind you, she had a $3k bag she sported to work and I don't own any that cost over $100, so we all have our priorities, but it stung to hear the negativity because I had been under the impression that we were friends. So I know that people have perceptions they don't voice to your face, but can act on them without thinking twice. I just don't want to learn the hard way that I shouldn't be wearing it. But hey, maybe people will think it's fake! :roll2: They are CBIs though and most people have never seen a super-ideal in person I've found, so I don't know if I'll get away with that story....

    Thanks!! Did you see @Weecam's CBI above?? Or @cflutist, @stonewell, @Dancing Fire? Those are all I can remember off the top of my head, but there are PLENTY more that have them, they're spectacular. I encourage you to contact Wink at HPD to discuss what you're looking for, he's one of the nicest people I've ever had the pleasure of chatting with.

    Thank you so much for your kind words and your input.
     
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  18. SandyinAnaheim
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    by SandyinAnaheim » Jan 2, 2019
    I guess that's the difference I see that I like, the high copper content. It's so very different than the normal gold I own. How can I obtain that from a bench?
     
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  19. SandyinAnaheim
    Brilliant_Rock

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    by SandyinAnaheim » Jan 3, 2019
    So here are a couple of pictures of the gold I possess to show the difference in colors I mentioned earlier. These are not great photos as the lighting in my house is poor, but you can get an idea of the difference in colors. Would using a very rich gold enhance the tint of the Js, or minimize it?

    The bracelet on the left is 18k Italian gold from 1958. The gold chain is stamped 14k Italy. The bangle and the ring are both 22k Indian gold.
    gold.jpg gold1.jpg
     
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  20. MakingTheGrade
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    by MakingTheGrade » Jan 3, 2019
    I can’t wait to see how this project turns out :)
    Sadly I’m of no help because I love bezels!

    Yeah I don’t think many people notice bling where I work aside from other enthusiasts. I wear 10$ clothes from amazon, don’t even own a purse, but $$$ in bling. Nobody cares about either of those things lol.

    People actually comment most on my colored stone rings and not my diamonds because they are interested in the fancy shapes and colors.
     
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  21. SandyinAnaheim
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    by SandyinAnaheim » Jan 3, 2019
    Here are some images I've collected of settings that I find interesting and different. These are two views of four different, yet similar, settings. Do you think some iteration of these could translate into settings for the smaller stones? Or would it not work?

    66.jpg
    67.jpg
    62.jpg
    64.jpg
    3.jpg
    7.jpg
    51.jpg
    52.jpg
     
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  22. SandyinAnaheim
    Brilliant_Rock

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    by SandyinAnaheim » Jan 3, 2019
    Of course you can be of help!! You can provide an opinion as a fellow jewelry lover! :mrgreen2:

    To my eye, a bezel around a diamond makes it look smaller? It's not that I don't like them, as I have a couple of colored stones set in bezels, I just don't like to see DIAMONDS encased in metal. Maybe it's because I haven't seen it done delicately enough? (except for weecam's example above) The majority of what's out there all looks the same to me, and I don't like having the exact same thing as everyone else.

    Like you, I spent money on bling this year too, and I have two closets of clothes I don't wear because I use scrubs 6 days a week and DH doesn't take me anywhere...so no new clothes, shoes, bags, etc. But bling? Yes! :oops2:
     
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  23. ccuheartnurse
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    by ccuheartnurse » Jan 3, 2019
    I went with a faux bezel prong for my pendant. I love the look & not only does it make the stone look round (which it should), the style also makes the stones look a bit larger. You can go with a thinner flatter basket which I would recommend. Good luck on your project, sounds like it's going to be gorgeous.

    Pendant Pic 2 copy.jpg

    Here is a pic from a project Diamonds By Lauren posted once. They used a substantial chain width.

    r4394-diamonds-by-the-yard-c.jpg
     
  24. SandyinAnaheim
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    by SandyinAnaheim » Jan 3, 2019
    That looks beautiful, and I LOVE the basket! Adding the claw prongs changes the look of the bezel so much - I don't think I've seen that before. Do you have a thread on your pendant to look at? Thanks for the DBL image. I think a chain just a bit narrower would look good with the bigger stones. It's really hard for me to tell without seeing the set stones in comparison to the chain, to see if it's balanced. I would hope that DK has a selection of chains to look at and choose from.
     
  25. ccuheartnurse
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    by ccuheartnurse » Jan 3, 2019
    Hi Sandy,

    I don't have a thread. As a seasoned PS'r, I suck. :(2 I have a few items I need to start threads on & haven't done. The basket is pretty but to be honest, is a bit too rounded to sit flat which I suggest you go with flatter in terms of a diamond by the yard style. I have a station bracelet that was made by IDJ & I think this style of simple basket with the faux bezel top is perfect for a necklace. I'll include some other pics DK sent me. I ended up having my centre stone set locally which is why there is no centre stone in my pics. As for the chain width, I like bolder myself. The guy at the local jewellers commented that my chain was a bit too wide for the setting. I laughed & disagreed. I said I don't like dainty & this was perfect. Plus, I have arthritis in my thumbs so I needed a jumbo sized lobster with a huge trigger. Would have looked odd with a dainty chain. Here is a pic of the back view. Also to add, I ** was ** a huge bezel lover till I had to reset a stone. Bezels while lovely, are expensive to replace & somewhat complicated. I love the faux bezel idea due to it's flexibility. I LOVE this idea. Obviously. LOL LOL The stone sits lower plus is pronged & looks bigger. Whats not to love? LOL If you want to get in touch with me, here is a way to do that... I'll send you specific pics privately. DK did my setting. I suggest looking at his FB or IG feed to find styles you love.

    https://loupetroop.com/listings/loose-stones-diamond/yellow-fiy-cushion-diamonds

    Pendant Pic 3 copy.jpg

    Side View-- 3 stone pendant copy.jpg
    3 Stone Pendant CAD.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 3, 2019
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  26. SandyinAnaheim
    Brilliant_Rock

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    by SandyinAnaheim » Jan 4, 2019
    Thank you SO much @ccuheartnurse, it's advice like this that I need. I don't have any necklace, or setting, like this and obviously, I am not well-versed in custom creations. That's why I started this thread, to get some ideas and guidance on what I should and should not be doing. Thanks for providing insight into your experience.
     
  27. AV_
    Ideal_Rock

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    by AV_ » Jan 4, 2019
    .
    I'd say that the rounded baskets will aid roll & flip.

    Having the bottom of the basket open flat against the skin at least spanning the outlines of the diamonds would do the opposite - I'd have them a hair wider & perhaps choose shape to work against flip...

    I can draw what I mean.

    I am thinking through a Y necklace model - so all this happens to be on my mind these days. [taking everything into account - adds up to quite a bit of architecture, IHMO - hats' off to who dares do & to who does it well]
     
    Last edited: Jan 4, 2019
  28. Wewechew
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    by Wewechew » Jan 4, 2019
    I think this would be perfect for you.

    To give you an idea how a flatter back so it doesn’t flip:

    23FF5D34-082E-4374-B6B3-8CDB9E4C8093.jpeg A13CF1D9-3A2C-48BB-A437-9663FD1DDC34.jpeg
     
  29. SandyinAnaheim
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    by SandyinAnaheim » Jan 5, 2019
    Well, that's just one of the reasons why I was thinking some sort of buttercup rendition might reduce the flipping, as it has a wider base, and no culet poking. Then there's also the fact that I've been looking at settings for a few months, and what draws my eye consistently, are those darned buttercups. :sick: I love the look of old world antique jewelry, it's what appeals to me.

    I like the way buttercups (if that's the correct term?) sometimes look like stars, like this. Maybe platinum settings on a rich gold chain?

    82.jpg
     
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  30. SandyinAnaheim
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    by SandyinAnaheim » Jan 5, 2019
    Thank you @Wewechew, that is very attractive.
     

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