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New Cartier ring - authentic?

bright&shiny

Brilliant_Rock
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May 11, 2009
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Hello - I have a new Cartier ruby ring. Unfortunately, it did not come with a certificate. I'm curious to know your learned opinions on its authenticity, the ruby, and diamonds as well as your overall impressions.
 

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lovedogs

Super_Ideal_Rock
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I have doubts about the authenticity. The Cartier stamp looks extremely poorly done.
 

Bron357

Ideal_Rock
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Agree, the hallmark looks fake, it’s not aligned properly.
The ring construction also looks “hollow” which again isn’t something Cartier would do, What’s the weight of the ring?
As for the ruby and diamonds, they too could be manmade / highly treated unless you have a reputable lab report.
It is extremely risky buying “name” pieces without paperwork that supports authenticity and/or reputable lab reports for gemstones as their are many many fakes out there.
 

RunningwithScissors

Ideal_Rock
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I'm not an expert by any means, but to me the prongs looks clumsy, not Cartier workmanship.
 

bright&shiny

Brilliant_Rock
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Agree, the hallmark looks fake, it’s not aligned properly.
The ring construction also looks “hollow” which again isn’t something Cartier would do, What’s the weight of the ring?
As for the ruby and diamonds, they too could be manmade / highly treated unless you have a reputable lab report.
It is extremely risky buying “name” pieces without paperwork that supports authenticity and/or reputable lab reports for gemstones as their are many many fakes out there.

Bron357: The ring weighs 7 grams. We assumed the cutouts are for the trillion diamonds that are set into the shank of the ring (as opposed to the 'ruby' which is set in prongs. Hadn't thought about it being for reduction in weight....

Today we had a chance to view the stone more closely - whatever it is, it seems to have enough inclusions to be genuine - but what stone it is exactly we can not tell.

We bought it from a reputable local jeweler who will take it back, so we aren't too worried on that end, but are disappointed it isn't authentic.
 

bright&shiny

Brilliant_Rock
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May 11, 2009
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1,259
I also doubt it’s Cartier. The inside of the ring is hollow, likely to save on gold. That’s the kind of thing Cartier probably wouldn’t do.

The ring definitely isn't hollow. There are cut outs, but we thought those were for the trillion diamonds. Of course, we asked for your comments because we are definitely not experts. Thank you so much for your attention and reply. Sad if it doesn't work out, but its better to know now than later. :(2
 

LilAlex

Ideal_Rock
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It's a pretty ring and a glowy stone. I don't think Cartier would use a stone like that but many of us would.

If you can get a report and you did not pay a true Cartier premium, then I think it's fine.

I don't think the poster above meant literally "hollow"; the band is "scooped out" on either side of the center stone. It's nice and smooth (nicely done) so it may have been done to keep weight down in a good way and not just to "save gold."

The one prong that's a little askew may just have been bumped hard.

There are some abrasions (maybe?) on the one visible long edge of the girdle which increases my confidence a little.

No part of my assessment is more than semi-informed speculation, though.
 

bright&shiny

Brilliant_Rock
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I'm not an expert by any means, but to me the prongs looks clumsy, not Cartier workmanship.

So now we are also examine the setting - thank you for your observation!
It's a pretty ring and a glowy stone. I don't think Cartier would use a stone like that but many of us would.

If you can get a report and you did not pay a true Cartier premium, then I think it's fine.

I don't think the poster above meant literally "hollow"; the band is "scooped out" on either side of the center stone. It's nice and smooth (nicely done) so it may have been done to keep weight down in a good way and not just to "save gold."

The one prong that's a little askew may just have been bumped hard.

There are some abrasions (maybe?) on the one visible long edge of the girdle which increases my confidence a little.

No part of my assessment is more than semi-informed speculation, though.

LilAlex, Yes - it is a glowy stone - which I like quite a lot. The inclusions and abrasions also lead us to believe they are real stones - but the question remains what kind of stones...

The scoop outs we assumed were to allow the 'diamonds' (everything claimed is now in quotes) their opportunity to perform.

The prongs are indeed a bit wonky - one has definitely been displaced or bumped and the gold folded a bit.

When you say the abrasions on the girdle increases your confidence - is that confidence that it is a fake stone or real stone?

Thanks again for your thoughtful comments!
 

bright&shiny

Brilliant_Rock
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May 11, 2009
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1,259
I have doubts about the authenticity. The Cartier stamp looks extremely poorly done.

Agreed - we've compared it with a powerful loop and the t doesn't emerge at the right side of the t....and it almost seems etched rather than a clean stamp.

Thank you for taking the time to reply - every bit of observation helps!
 

bright&shiny

Brilliant_Rock
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May 11, 2009
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Sooooo - for the amusement of you better skilled than we and as a cautionary tale to others like us:
  • The stones (all of them) fluoresce under uv light - and now we know that probably doesn't tell us anything.
  • Breath fog clears immediately - and that doesn't tell us anything...
Oh, the things we do for bling.
 

bright&shiny

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
May 11, 2009
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So, moving forward on the assumption this is a fake - which it must be - then what do we do? I love the ring, but we don't even know what it is. Is it 18K? Are they diamonds? Is it a ruby and if so, what has happened to it.

But I love the ring. What would you do and how much would you pay.?

Ever hopeful and grateful for your observations and opinions!
 

GliderPoss

Ideal_Rock
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Sep 25, 2008
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2,936
It's pretty and if you like it regardless of the "brand" then maybe the jeweller will offer to get it verified before you buy it?
 

bright&shiny

Brilliant_Rock
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It's pretty and if you like it regardless of the "brand" then maybe the jeweller will offer to get it verified before you buy it?

Funny you should say that, we were just discussing the same thing. We've already purchased it, but they have a good return policy and will take it back. We were just wondering if they will go to the trouble to verify anything about it at all or give us a refund and call it a day...
 

lovedogs

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Funny you should say that, we were just discussing the same thing. We've already purchased it, but they have a good return policy and will take it back. We were just wondering if they will go to the trouble to verify anything about it at all or give us a refund and call it a day...

I would just get a refund and buy a piece with the correct paperwork on stones, etc. I don't trust that a fake Cartier ring used any authentic materials (e.g. ruby could be heavily treated, diamonds could be lab diamond or moissanite, etc).
 

LilAlex

Ideal_Rock
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When you say the abrasions on the girdle increases your confidence - is that confidence that it is a fake stone or real stone?

I just meant that it's maybe a stone that has been actually worn and (maybe) less likely to be a recent fake.

When I gauge if something may be fake, I consider not if it could possibly be faked but how cost-effective it would be to fake it. Classic examples are Cartier LOVE rings and any number of Tiffany trinkets. Stamp them out of gold and make 1,000% profit. Even a Tiffany solitaire -- sub in a lower-color more-included diamond and you could make thousands in profit -- but that's a lot easier for a semi-informed buyer to detect. It's even tougher with colored stones, especially if you have a report. A fair amount of time and effort to find an attractive stone of the right size, etc.

All that said, I think the serial no. looks hokey -- not centered vertically around the inside of the band.
 

Sibsgirl

Shiny_Rock
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Jul 23, 2019
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101
I would be inclined to see it as authentic. Although beautiful (and certainly matching my preferred aesthetic!) the wide band and all-yellow build isn't a design that has widespread popularity.The thickness of the gold band and the finish around the stones on the underside are clean.The bezel work on top around the trillions is clean as well, and the stones are quite nice. It just appears as though the ring has had some wear, and perhaps the seller dabbed a bit of gold onto those prongs ...
 

bright&shiny

Brilliant_Rock
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May 11, 2009
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1,259
It's pretty and if you like it regardless of the "brand" then maybe the jeweller will offer to get it verified before you buy it?

We are going to talk with them about the problem authenticating the ring.
 

bright&shiny

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
May 11, 2009
Messages
1,259
I would be inclined to see it as authentic. Although beautiful (and certainly matching my preferred aesthetic!) the wide band and all-yellow build isn't a design that has widespread popularity.The thickness of the gold band and the finish around the stones on the underside are clean.The bezel work on top around the trillions is clean as well, and the stones are quite nice. It just appears as though the ring has had some wear, and perhaps the seller dabbed a bit of gold onto those prongs ...

The design is decidedly not contemporary . But I wanted a simpler look with the focus on the stone, and this fit the bill. However, if there are doubts about its authenticity- which now exist - it’s hard to feel enthusiastic about the purchase. If we’d bought it as an unknown quantity with a price that matched, it probably wouldn’t be a concern.
 

bright&shiny

Brilliant_Rock
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May 11, 2009
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1,259
We've sent an email - but it sounds like they don't authenticate purchases on the secondary market. I'll try to call them, though, so I know for certain. Thanks for the suggestion!
 

bright&shiny

Brilliant_Rock
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May 11, 2009
Messages
1,259
I just got off the phone with Cartier. They do not authenticate pieces as a matter of course, but will do an insurance valuation for you - by appointment and in person - that can verify if it is authentic, and what the piece was when created (as opposed to any changes since it left their boutique). They charge for it - which is completely reasonable - starting at $100. Presumably that is the "we didn't find this to be authentic" amount. Nearest boutique is 4 hours away and no appointments before the return window is closed.... but good to know.
 

bright&shiny

Brilliant_Rock
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1,259
An update on Cartier's policy. I spoke with the manager of our closest Cartier boutique. They do not offer any services if you are not the original owner.
 

Bron357

Ideal_Rock
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It’s a lovely ring and it “might” be Cartier but you really must have supporting documentation as people can and do ”alter” jewellery to get more money due to the “name”.
Fakes can range from cheap plated base metal with glass gems to very believable, even using solid 18ct gold BUT not actually Cartier pieces. The Cartier name adds $$$ to the price.
Buying Rubies is a whole other minefield.
Rubies are expensive and people can and do “improve” rubies with heat, beryllium treatment and Flux (glass) filling. This matters a lot. A natural untreated unheated 1 carat ruby can be worth $10,000 plus. A natural ruby that has been treated and filled with flux to conceal the fissures is worth like $10 and to the inexperienced eye they look identical. That’s why you need a lab report.
I would find an appraiser / gemologist who at the very least and check the ruby and diamonds for you. Then you will have a way of determining the value of the components. If they are natural and not treated, I would buy the ring but I wouldn’t pay the premium for “Cartier” as that can not be verified.
 

LilAlex

Ideal_Rock
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It's kinda telling that they will not go to bat for you. Like the eBay listings that state, "we believe this stone to be unheated." :lol-2: OK, then I believe this check to be good.

I have even had high-end vendors state that GIA and AGL will not evaluate mounted stones and "We did not have the heart to destroy this gorgeous old ring." :lol:
 

bright&shiny

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
May 11, 2009
Messages
1,259
It's kinda telling that they will not go to bat for you. Like the eBay listings that state, "we believe this stone to be unheated." :lol-2: OK, then I believe this check to be good.

I have even had high-end vendors state that GIA and AGL will not evaluate mounted stones and "We did not have the heart to destroy this gorgeous old ring." :lol:

To be fair, we haven’t discussed it with them, it’s just my guess that they won’t be interested in the additional work. I don’t think they have the resources. I’ll find out tomorrow.
 

Daisys and Diamonds

Super_Ideal_Rock
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Apr 30, 2019
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23,019
To be fair, we haven’t discussed it with them, it’s just my guess that they won’t be interested in the additional work. I don’t think they have the resources. I’ll find out tomorrow.

surly every store front bussiness at this time is chassing what ever income they can get right now
 
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