Never did I think this would be so difficult!!

[Sopranojla]

I have posted on here a few times about a diamond that I am having set. I’m designing a setting for it and never did I dream that it would be so difficult!

I need help deciding:
- 14k or 18k yellow gold shank
- 4 prong or 6 prong
- kind of prong
- arthritic knuckle / euro band

I’ve settled on a two-tone cathedral solitaire with a platinum head and yellow gold shank.

And therein lies problem #1. Initially, I wanted 18k but then worried it might be too soft for my on-the-go lifestyle. Also, this past weekend, I took my14k white gold wedding band off and it was a complete oval. I have no idea how it happened—I’ve had the ring for almost 5 years and it’s always maintained it’s circular shape, but it made me question my 18k gold choice.
I’m worried the ring will Be so soft and form to the shape of my finger and it will be hard to get on and off. My ring finger has quite a large knuckle (from forcing a small ring over it for a number of years). I’m trying to find solutions other than one of those arthritic snap on bands

I am back and forth on 4 and 6 prong. The first CAD that I got had four double claw prongs which I like because they are unique to the general masses. But I read that they may not be as sturdy and subject to catching on clothing more easily. Also, my stone faces up about 1 carat and I don’t want to overwhelm the table with prongs. I’d like the prongs to be in discreet, but safe. And I’m not sure what kind of prong that would be? I’m open to suggestions.

I *think* I’m leaning more towards a six prong because I already have a rectangular shaped engagement ring and I really like to have a true round to switch out my radiant with.

Finally, I requested a euro band to hopefully help with spinning. I have a larger knuckle, so I have to size up. Will that really help or is it a waste?

Any information/suggestions you can throw my way would be so helpful.

Thank you!

 

[Matthews1127]

Just to throw out my observations between 4- v 6-prong settings.

I have seen round stones in 4 prongs, and I immediately ponder if the stone is round, cushion or princess because the 4-prong head makes the diamond appear square.
I prefer 6-prong heads because they secure the stone, without visually changing the shape of the stone, and, if executed properly, claw prongs can be less obstructive, yet, they are extremely secure. Fewer snags, more consistent with the shape of the diamond, and aesthetically, more desirable.
I cannot comment on the 14k v 18k dilemma. That will be a personal preference, and one with which you must be able to function.
My rings are all 14k WG, with the exception of one, which was custom made in 18k WG, and it’s sturdy as ever.
I wish you well with your design & bespoke piece. I’m certain it will be beautiful!

 

[Gussie]

I have a large knuckle too. Get the size that easily fits over the knuckle and have sizing beads or cushions put in. It helps it from not spinning. Plus if you are forcing a small ring over your knuckle, it may cause it to swell (speaking from experience!) I don't find a euro shank to be comfortable.

 

[headlight]

Hi!
I can personally contribute to all your talking points!
1. I chose 14kt for exactly as you stated... it is not as soft as the 18kt.
2. For a solitaire, I went with 6-prong both for safety as well as it really emphasizes its roundness.
3. I strongly recommend Cliq mountings. I have had a lot of knuckle issues... hard to get the ring over the knuckle which, in turn, makes the knuckle even larger! I even had to have 2 surgeries for this issue So do check out https://cliqjewelry.com They have mountings you can select from, or you can have a regular mounting adapted with the Cliq mechanism. They will send you a special sizing kit, as well. I am getting another ring set in one of their settings. Best fit I've ever had... no need to deal with the knuckle and the ring never spins!

 

[Snowdrop13]

I’ve worn my 18k YG wedding band every day for 22 years and have had no issues with bending, although it is pretty scratched now! Similarly with my ER, although I wear it less often. Both bands are pretty thick (2.5 and 3mm), compared to what is the fashion now, that may have more to do with it.

 

[Sopranojla]

Thank you for your input! Good to know about claw prongs. I really like them because they are not wildly popular and I want my solitaire to have a bit of a twist in terms of details.

 

[Sopranojla]

My concern with the metal being soft is that it may bend (I’ve had this happen with other rings) and take the shape of my finger (which is smaller than my knuckle) and then not fit for over the knuckle when coming on and off and exacerbate my already grossly enlarged knuckle even more. The ring that is being made is 2mm so maybe that will be thick enough?
But, good to know yours has held up! I’m still considering the 18k!

 

[Sopranojla]

Hi!
I can personally contribute to all your talking points!
1. I chose 14kt for exactly as you stated... it is not as soft as the 18kt.
2. For a solitaire, I went with 6-prong both for safety as well as it really emphasizes its roundness.
3. I strongly recommend Cliq mountings. I have had a lot of knuckle issues... hard to get the ring over the knuckle which, in turn, makes the knuckle even larger! I even had to have 2 surgeries for this issue So do check out https://cliqjewelry.com They have mountings you can select from, or you can have a regular mounting adapted with the Cliq mechanism. They will send you a special sizing kit, as well. I am getting another ring set in one of their settings. Best fit I've ever had... no need to deal with the knuckle and the ring never spins!

OMG. Thank you for posting! I’ve even had my rings made larger with sizing beads (as also suggested here) and even THAT hurt going on and off!
I asked my hand and shoulder surgeon about doing something for my knuckle and he said there was nothing he could do! It’s the ONLY finger that is like that! Was your surgery a success? Did it help your situation? I’m dying to know bc if there is something I can do, I want to act now before it’s even worse. I’m only 43 and have grandma hands!

 

[Sopranojla]

Omg my 14k white gold bent from a circle to an oval last weekend. No idea how or why, but I was pretty shocked when i went to take it off because I’m that shape, it gave more room to my knuckle when I was taking it off!! I did bend it back to a circle, though. Luckily it’s bezel set so hopefully my stones are still safe!

 

[headlight]

From my experience, DO NOT have surgery if you can avoid it! I had it done twice and both times total post-op problems. Hence, I now have to wear my "engagement/wedding" ring on my right hand. While all this was going on with my left hand ring finger, I went over to my right hand. Well, my previous ring mounting created a bone spur on that finger! So that is when I went over to a Cliq setting. I just got a basic one because I've had so many rings over the years and was tired of dumping $ into fancy mountings as well as sort of already been there/done that on many of the common styles. But they have many pretty mountings now, especially halos. Back in the day they used to be called Superfit and there was only one option. And you can also have an existing mounting retrofitted (in most cases). Don't cause more trauma to your fingers! Just know you are not alone <3

 

[monipod]

Just weighing in on 14K vs 18K. My wedding band is 18K and has been on my finger for 98% of the time for almost 20 years. It has a lot of scratches (not horribly tho) but the shape is maintained. It's a fairly thick band though so as long as you are not after a thin band, I don't think 18K will be an issue. Having said that, you will get more value for money with 14K. In terms of colour, it's fairly negligible. In Australia we really only have the choice of 9K (for cost saving mostly) or 18K (standard higher end choice).

 

[doberman]

I've worn 18kt gold rings forever and they haven't bent yet. It's pretty standard for Cartier and Tiffany (among others) to use 18kt yellow gold or platinum for their settings and other jewelry, as do higher end ring designers. 14kt gold does not appear on the menu. If it's good enough for them that's enough for me.

And I dont like euroshanks. They feel weird. I have large knuckles and my rings are a tiny bit tight on the knuckle but just fine on the finger. Plus you swell in the heat, in pregnancy and things change.

 

[WinkHPD]

And therein lies problem #1. Initially, I wanted 18k but then worried it might be too soft for my on-the-go lifestyle. Also, this past weekend, I took my14k white gold wedding band off and it was a complete oval. I have no idea how it happened—I’ve had the ring for almost 5 years and it’s always maintained it’s circular shape, but it made me question my 18k gold choice.

I have many clients tell me they worry about the softness of 18kt gold versus 14kt. Here is my experience over many years of being in this wonderful business.

I find the difference in hardness to be largely over stated, as in people being told that they should not wear 18kt gold as it is just too soft. Yet, I love the richer warmer color of 18kt yellow gold and as an active former Marine, I have never had any problems with my 18kt yellow gold rings. (Of course, my shanks tend to be at least five mm wide and my gems are often bezel set.)

Over the years, I have seen that my 18kt gold clients tend to come back from 15 to 20 years after the original purchase to get a new shank whereas my 14kt clients tend to come back from 17 to twenty five years to get a new shank. It depends on the individual and how hard they wear the ring. My, "wear it to the gym lifting weights," clients tend to need me to round their rings often, no matter the karat. These time frames are for me, fairly consistent for clients who bought the ring elsewhere.

Most of the platinum rings I have seen needing a new shank are usually at least 50 years old, and I have had 75 years and older rings come in that only need a good polishing to look brand new. (Prongs often need repairs long before shanks,)

My thought then, @Sopranojla, is to wear the color you like best, be it 14kt, or 18kt, and enjoy the color and the ring for many years. Be sure to frequently check the prongs and have your ring professionally cleaned and polished at least once per year.

Wink

 

[Sopranojla]

I have many clients tell me they worry about the softness of 18kt gold versus 14kt. Here is my experience over many years of being in this wonderful business.

I find the difference in hardness to be largely over stated, as in people being told that they should not wear 18kt gold as it is just too soft. Yet, I love the richer warmer color of 18kt yellow gold and as an active former Marine, I have never had any problems with my 18kt yellow gold rings. (Of course, my shanks tend to be at least five mm wide and my gems are often bezel set.)

Over the years, I have seen that my 18kt gold clients tend to come back from 15 to 20 years after the original purchase to get a new shank whereas my 14kt clients tend to come back from 17 to twenty five years to get a new shank. It depends on the individual and how hard they wear the ring. My, "wear it to the gym lifting weights," clients tend to need me to round their rings often, no matter the karat. These time frames are for me, fairly consistent for clients who bought the ring elsewhere.

Most of the platinum rings I have seen needing a new shank are usually at least 50 years old, and I have had 75 years and older rings come in that only need a good polishing to look brand new. (Prongs often need repairs long before shanks,)

My thought then, @Sopranojla, is to wear the color you like best, be it 14kt, or 18kt, and enjoy the color and the ring for many years. Be sure to frequently check the prongs and have your ring professionally cleaned and polished at least once per year.

Wink

THANK YOU, Wink!!! This helps me enormously! Like you, I love the richness of the 18k as well. I never wear my rings to the gym or when I exercise. I do tend to get into other projects and realize later I should have taken it off, though.

Do you have any experience with the flex fit band mentioned above? The one where you size up your ring a few sizes and put the sizer ?

 

[WinkHPD]

THANK YOU, Wink!!! This helps me enormously! Like you, I love the richness of the 18k as well. I never wear my rings to the gym or when I exercise. I do tend to get into other projects and realize later I should have taken it off, though.

Do you have any experience with the flex fit band mentioned above? The one where you size up your ring a few sizes and put the sizer ?

I do not have any personal experience with that particular system. I put a hinged system on my mother's rings as she had horribly large knuckles due to her arthritis. I have tried different systems and all of them have their pros and cons.

Wink

P.S. While I normally make my rings in 18kt yellow, when I know I am going to do a Bezel, I really love to do it in 22 kt. 22 kt is soft but oh, the color!