Need some design and stone help please

[blingymo]

I am dipping my toe into custom for the first time and need some of your who are experienced to help. I am planning a 5 stone, yellow gold, bezeled ring for my daughter that represents her sorority. MimB's new ring is the inspiration as each stone will have a bezel and it will be straight across in a band. I haven't decided on the profile view yet. Her finger is size 6. I am getting custom quotes from my jeweler, whose bench does beautiful metalwork, and Daniel M.

Side to side, the stones will be diamond, (green stone), pearl, (green stone), diamond. I am getting 2 diamonds that are 2.85mm. The green should technically be emerald, and she really wants an emerald ring, but I think that will really drive the price up, so I was planning on tsav. I thought I found a tsav ring in a resale case at my jeweler with a small oval, 6 small pears and 2 slightly larger pears that I was going to take apart. I was going to use 2 small pears in the ring, and then have the extra stones to make earrings/necklace for later occasions so she would have a set. I have now found out the stones are chrome diopside. In certain light they look slightly olive green. I need to go back and look at them again.

So here are my questions.
1) What is the mm halfway or almost halfway around a size 6 ring so I can figure out stone size? What size (green stone) and pearl should I be looking for?

2) Can you tell me about green stones? She wants emerald, but I don't like the highly included, cloudy look. I would rather (I think) get another stone than a lab created emerald that is clear (which is what she has seen). What are differences, in hardness and appearance, of chrome diopside and tsavorite? Should I continue to plan to use the c.d. considering I would have 9 small stones to work with (and the setting will go into my scrap gold for later cashing in) for $350? The two loose tsavs they had on hand (oval) were more than that per stone, so I thought cannibalizing that ring was a good deal until I found out they are c.d. If you know of any small, reasonably priced tsavs, could you point me to them? I prefer the pear shape to have some visual interest in the ring (and eventually other pieces).

 

[chrono]

How set are you on pearls? Pearls are organic and requires totally different care. In addition, they show scuff and scratches very easily in a ring. Tsavorite is a good alternative for the green but if you want emerald, take a look at African emeralds which are cleaner but their green is a touch different than SA emeralds. Chrome diopside is unlikely to hold up well in a ring, much less so than tsavorite.

 

[blingymo]

I'm pretty set on the pearl, as those are the three sorority stones. Where can I look for emeralds you suggested? I don't want to go too expensive. I'm wondering about this parcel on LT. http://loupetroop.com/listings/loose-stones-colored-gemstone/reduced-columbian-emerald-lot

ETA: Eh, now that I look at all of them, I think I really want the pear shape, so this won't work.

 

[chrono]

You don't mind if the emeralds are a light green? If interested, I would ask the seller if she has a matched pair in that parcel. Parcel means they might not match in shape, size and colour.

ETA
You can pretty much forget about a pair of pear shaped emeralds or even tsavorites. By limiting the shape, you've added a huge element of difficultly. Rounds are difficult enough, ovals are the most common and cushions might be doable.

Will trillions do?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-36ct-Pair-Trillion-Cut-Natural-Green-Tsavorite-Garnet-/251314232896?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a837ede40

 

[JewelFreak]

Are you set on a ring instead of a necklace? With emeralds and pearls, this won't be an everyday ring. It will need babying -- both pearls & emeralds are easily damaged, especially pearls. I'm trying to figure how she'll even clean it. Is she easy on jewelry?

What if you did the same thing in a pendant or as the center of a necklace, the rest a pretty chain? It would be much less prone to injury or being maimed that way.

On the size question, I'd ask Daniel M for his input -- your jeweler too. Somebody here may have advice if she's done a 5-stone & wears a 6. You could look at SMTB for 5-stone rings to get an idea.

I took a quick look around & found not many tsav pairs. The more you limit shape & size, the more limited the selection. Roger Dery has them from time to time -- can't seem to get on his site right now. They would not be cheap either, however, although good quality.

--- Laurie

 

[chrono]

It will need babying -- both pearls & emeralds are easily damaged, especially pearls. I'm trying to figure how she'll even clean it. --- Laurie

Ditto the above. The only way to clean the ring is to wipe it with a damp soft cloth gently. Any other method is a sure way to damage the pearl.

 

[blingymo]

The softness of emerald is another reason for considering an alternative stone. The trillion tsavs are pretty, but I think a bit (1.5 mm?)too big. I guess other shapes (definitely trillion) would work if the bezel mimiced that shape. I don't want all round - something in there to change up the visual image.

I looked up the circumference of a size 6... 51.9 mm. Half of that at 26mm, I was thinking (2) 2.85 diamonds, (2) mm green stones, (1) 5mm pearl. I figured the bezel would help protect all the stones. I know that you use different "cleaner" for pearls. Would you be able to use that and a soft brush to clean the other stones in the ring? I've seen lots of pearl/gemstone rings.

 

[chrono]

If you are going with Daniel M, I would have him source the tsavorites then since 2 mm is very small (melee sized) and these tend to be round shaped.

63 pieces available
http://www.multicolour.com/detail/?2078662777

17 pieces available (I think these will be eye clean because they are 2 mm)
http://www.multicolour.com/detail/?2042092572

How can you guarantee you will not accidentally brush the pearl? Cleaning for any jewellery containing a pearl (even if it has other gemstones) is to go with the softest stone which in this case is a soft moist cloth only.

 

[pinkjewel]

The softness of emerald is another reason for considering an alternative stone. The trillion tsavs are pretty, but I think a bit (1.5 mm?)too big. I guess other shapes (definitely trillion) would work if the bezel mimiced that shape. I don't want all round - something in there to change up the visual image.

I looked up the circumference of a size 6... 51.9 mm. Half of that at 26mm, I was thinking (2) 2.85 diamonds, (2) mm green stones, (1) 5mm pearl. I figured the bezel would help protect all the stones. I know that you use different "cleaner" for pearls. Would you be able to use that and a soft brush to clean the other stones in the ring? I've seen lots of pearl/gemstone rings.

I don't think you'll be able to find green stones of 2mm in much other than rounds as that's really, really tiny. Did the jewelers you talked with think that ratio would look good? I think I'd move up to at least 2.4 or 2.5 if it were me. I wear a 6 1/2 and I am contemplating a 5 stone bezeled band. I'm looking at a center stone 3.3mm with 3.0mm on either side and 2.80 mm on either end. If I went 7 stone I'd add in a 2.4 or 2.5 on the ends.

 

[chrono]

I just had a "duh" moment where I realized the OP did not specify 2 mm green stones but 2 X(unknown) mm green stones. This means the green stones should be close to 3.5 mm each. Does that seem more cohesive in design?

These look really pretty (3.7 mm).
http://www.multicolour.com/detail/?-744577630

A bit light but cut looks better than the other offerings of that size and will darken once bezeled.
http://www.multicolour.com/detail/?-321408571

 

[pinkjewel]

I just had a "duh" moment where I realized the OP did not specify 2 mm green stones but 2 X(unknown) mm green stones.

haha-I just noticed that,too!! But anyhoo, I just checked Africa Gems site and they have calibrated melee listed for Tsavs, emeralds, and chatham emeralds. Take your pick of shapes,too. Rounds,pears, trillions, princess,ovals, etc. The OP may want to check with Mark to see what he has available as he doesn't always have in stock what he lists for his melee. He has lots of sizes listed!!

eta- oops, maybe I can't list Chatham emeralds as they're lab created?

 

[MollyMalone]

Silver plus pearls is a horrible combination to maintain. But as someone who owns several vintage, gold rings that are varying combinations of pearls + gemstones, I haven't found it all that tough to avoid the pearl(s) when brushing the stones. Plus, a good quality, replacement freshwater pearl* of that size will cost virtually nothing -- although the related expense of replacing a post-set pearl is less (can even be a freebie) than with one set in a bezel.

* preferable to an Akoya pearl imo for this purpose since freshwater nacre is thicker & you don't need a a perfect round; a button would work better, provided you can find a decent, small button that has good lustre. 6 mm is the smallest listed on, e.g., Pearl Paradise's web site, so my suggestion would be that you call them directly to make sure that they can send you a 6 mm (if that's acceptable) vs. a 7 mm, which are lumped into the same $5 price category; PP may even have some smaller ones at hand but don't bother listing them.
http://www.pearlparadise.com/Loose-Freshwater-Pearls189.aspx

 

[blingymo]

I just had a "duh" moment where I realized the OP did not specify 2 mm green stones but 2 X(unknown) mm green stones. This means the green stones should be close to 3.5 mm each. Does that seem more cohesive in design?

These look really pretty (3.7 mm).
http://www.multicolour.com/detail/?-744577630

A bit light but cut looks better than the other offerings of that size and will darken once bezeled.
http://www.multicolour.com/detail/?-321408571

Thanks Chrono - yes, I meant to say (2) 4mm green stones I figured stone total would be 19mm with room for bezels.

 

[blingymo]

What do you think of these?
http://www.multicolour.com/detail/index.html?-612117581

 

[MollyMalone]

Is a pendant or necklace out of the question? That could give you greater freedom re what stones to select.

 

[blingymo]

Is a pendant or necklace out of the question? That could give you greater freedom re what stones to select.

The plan is to make a set eventually for different occasions. When I was planning to take the ring apart, I thought I would have small stones for a ring, earrings, and necklace. She really wants a ring, so I thought I would start there.

 

[blingymo]

Besides the tsavs I posted about from the multicolor site that Chrono linked, I asked Barry Bridges what he has. He indicated that 4mm length pears are not going to have as nice a cut since they are so small, and that I would have more options in 6mm. But I think that may be getting too big to fit all 5 stones on a size 6 finger. He sent a picture of these:
A) Tsavorite, Pear, Pair, 0.33 carats total weight, 4.4/4.3 x 3/2.8 mm, Medium (vibrant grass green) colour tone, VS clarity, priced at $70 total. (these do not look well matched enough in size and shape to me, but maybe it is the angle they are on?)

B) Tsavorite, Trilliant, Pair, 0.39 carats total weight, 4 mm, Medium (vibrant grass green) colour tone, VS clarity, priced at $120 total.

I do understand the fragility of the pearl. I have two pearl rings, and I think as long as she only wears it when it will not be banged around, it will be ok. I'm willing to take the risk.

What do you think about the stone sizes I mentioned? - 2.85mm diamond/4 mm tsav (pear or trillion), 5mm pearl/4 mm tsav/2.85mm diamond for a total of 18.7mm plus bezel out of the 26mm that is half shank of size 6. Would you adjust any sizes? Which tsavs do you like? Other ideas or suggestions?

 

[MollyMalone]

Have you confirmed with your jeweler & Daniel M. that this will work in a size 6? The total width of MimB's stones is 19 mm or a hair less than your contemplated 18.7 mm. Her new ring looks to me as if it covers the span of her size 10-11 middle finger, so it doesn't seem as if all 5 stones will be as visible in a size 6.

 

[blingymo]

Molly, that is exactly the kind of help I am hoping to get

I will mention that to Caryn when I email her next and see what size she suggests for the tsavs and pearl.
Thanks.

 

[blingymo]

I just got the tsavs from Bruce and laid them out with a pearl ring I have (the pearl is too big, but gives me an idea of the overall look). Which do you prefer - the pears or the trillions?

 

[pandabee]

I like the pears! However, the only thing I wonder is that with either the pears or the trillions, they come to a point so it seems to "finish" off the set, but then if you add the diamonds on the end, it may not flow as well as it should? Just not sure where the diamonds are going to be in your vision of the arrangement.

 

[JewelFreak]

The pearl will be smaller, so it might work. I like the pears better too -- what about turning them around, so the points are facing the pearl? How would that look? The color of those tsavs is terrific. Gives the whole arrangement a punch it needs.

--- Laurie

 

[blingymo]

I think I like the pears too. I hadn't thought of the point being the end. Color wise I like the arrangement I have. Shape wise, the pears might be better at the end. But the predominant thing I see is color. Do you think the size of the trillions works better?

 

[chrono]

Design wise, the trillions will work better but I really like the pears. If using the pears, the points should face the diamonds.

 

[blingymo]

The pears are so cute and dainty, but the trillions may add some size and visual oomph to the design without adding mm (end to end) to the band. Hubby likes the trillions too.

 

[GemFever]

I love this project! And your pearl ring, it's just gorgeous!

Can you take a pic of various combinations with the pearl you're going to use in the ring? I think if it's as large or close to the pearl in your ring, trillions work best (a smoother transition from pearl to tsav to diamond). If the pearl is smaller, then pears are perfect (but then I'd put even smaller diamonds on the ends, too). I think pics would help to see the proportions. Maybe also all the stones laid out on your hand?

 

[blingymo]

I don't have the pearl -- I am going to have Dan and Caren source a freshwater around 5mm. That makes the proportions roughly 3mm-4mm-5mm-4mm-3mm . I had so much trouble getting them laid out like this - I don't have tweezers and my nails are long, and the stones are teeny. Thanks for you input!

 

[GemFever]

I don't have the pearl -- I am going to have Dan and Caren source a freshwater around 5mm. That makes the proportions roughly 3mm-4mm-5mm-4mm-3mm . I had so much trouble getting them laid out like this - I don't have tweezers and my nails are long, and the stones are teeny. Thanks for you input!

If the pearl is fairly small, I'd go for the pears. I think the trillions might overwhelm the ring. Will DanielM be sending you CADs? Perhaps they could do the two layouts in CAD. Or they could take pics of the lineup for you with the pearl once they have it.

 

[blingymo]

I have to return one of the pairs to Bruce. I like the punch of the trillions, but see what you mean that it may overwhelm the ring. The pearl will only be 1 mm larger in diameter.I am going to try to draw it out tomorrow when I can get a ruler with mm.

 

[blingymo]

I have to return one of the pairs to Bruce. I like the punch of the trillions, but see what you mean that it may overwhelm the ring. The pearl will only be 1 mm larger in diameter.I am going to try to draw it out tomorrow when I can get a ruler with mm. I wish I could do the photoshop etc like some people on PS are able to do.