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Need help w/a radiant 3 stone engagement ring (trapezoid)

turboLT

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Sep 26, 2012
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Please! Wanted that part to be first because the quality of help here is really amazing. Thank you for such an awesome resource!

Question: How do I buy this theoretical ring?

I've lurked and researched for a while and know exactly what I (she) want(s) for an engagement ring, but now I need some help with how to do it, particularly with selecting a fancy cut. She wants a 3 stone trapezoid style with a square/rectangular center stone, first choice is radiant but second choice tied between cushion and asscher cut in white gold or platinum. Kinda like this:

http://www.bluenile.com/trapezoid-diamond-engagement-ring-platinum_27483

except she prefers a smoother, rounder ring that tapers near the stone instead of the boxy one shown.


Ranges and notes:
My budget is $12-$13k, but asking her to contribute towards the setting isn't out of the question. We will pay cash.
She's a small Asian woman with a size 4.5 finger, but diamond size is important to her. I can't compete with the monster rocks from friends working in finance, but I know she'll compare hers to theirs a bit.
I work in finance, she's in startup marketing. She makes more than I do FYI. (hence willing to contribute). We're 30 and 32 renting an apartment in San Francisco. California has a very laid back dress code and she wears jeans to work every day.

Ive been searching radiants, 1.40-1.7 ct, SI1, F-G with preference given to a better cut

Notes from homework:
- From reading PS it seems you really can't evaluate radiants with numbers and that the ASET is an OK measurement, but it all comes down to looking at it. The only issue is I don't have an eye for this stuff and will be totally taken at a B&M based on looks alone - I breathe numbers and other quantifiable metrics.
- I'd prefer to buy at least the stone online. The B&M shops I've visited in San Francisco have astronomical diamond prices and won't tell you about cut. Last one I benchmarked had a 25% markup.
- My friends have all reccomended "their guy" and they're all the same (expensive, silent on cut, limited fancy selection but will call around for you) and I'm done with it, but I'd respect a reccomendation from a favorably reviewed PS spot.
- I can't find the ring style anywhere. Custom?
- the trapezoid size is almost impossible to judge on paper by carat weight. I've seen .38 ct stones that were cut so wide they made a center 1.55 look tiny. I'm hoping for a look of about half the width of the center at the widest trapezoid cut if that makes sense. So a 6mm long radiant would have trapezoids no longer than 3mm.
- I'm concerned that Gs look yellow, but it also looked to me like some Fs I saw were warm. Am I crazy? They're all washing together at this point anyway.
- she likes a more rectangular radiant but from reading here it seems like those have light return issues.


Thank you in advance for your help. I'm cool with buying an ASET if needed and am not sure if I should just pull the trigger on a stone then find a ringmaker, work with wf, goodoldgold etc to be on the lookout, sack up and deal with a PS reccomended B&M or if I should just buy a ring pop and some construction paper.
 

AprilBaby

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Re: Need help w/a radiant 3 stone engagement ring (trapezoid

Not an expert here but David from diamonds by Lauren seems to have a lot of the style you are looking for.
 

Sakuracherry

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621
Re: Need help w/a radiant 3 stone engagement ring (trapezoid

I second Aprilbaby's suggestion. You can also try James Allen. They can provide you with ASET images.
 

Enerchi

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Re: Need help w/a radiant 3 stone engagement ring (trapezoid

another vote for checking out www.diamondsbylauren.com.. I had the wonderful experience of meeting David and trying on so many of the beauties in person! It was wonderful! I find the finishing and workmanship to be outstanding on the rings I tried on.
Good luck finding the perfect ring!
 

turboLT

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Re: Need help w/a radiant 3 stone engagement ring (trapezoid

iPad extra post, sorry
 

turboLT

Rough_Rock
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Sep 26, 2012
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Re: Need help w/a radiant 3 stone engagement ring (trapezoid

iPad extra post, sorry.
 

turboLT

Rough_Rock
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Re: Need help w/a radiant 3 stone engagement ring (trapezoid

Thanks all,

I've been checking back every few weeks, and Diamonds by Lauren doesn't seem to have the sizes or color quality I'm looking for. They'll have a 6ct E and a bunch of 1.5 ish Js or worse, but nothing in between. I guess I'll have to call them and see of they'll keep their eyes open.

Is it wise to trust a seller with finding stones and/or a ring for you? Once I have the stone will a regular B&M be ok to make the setting?
 

Gypsy

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40,225
Re: Need help w/a radiant 3 stone engagement ring (trapezoid

Yes it is very wise, when shopping for fancy diamonds especially, to trust a GOOD jeweler with a strong reputation and lots of experience pick out stones for you. For the ring you are considering i would suggest contacting Mark at Engagement Rings Direct, as he has a lot of experience with fancies, great resources, the right technology to give you the comfort and information you need, and he also makes beautiful three stones. Plus he has a great eye for pairs of diamonds.

I would do the ring and the center in one place. That way you will have the center insured while it is being set.
 

turboLT

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Re: Need help w/a radiant 3 stone engagement ring (trapezoid

Gypsy|1354064040|3316926 said:
I would do the ring and the center in one place. That way you will have the center insured while it is being set.

Fantastic advice!
 

Alexiszoe

Brilliant_Rock
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Re: Need help w/a radiant 3 stone engagement ring (trapezoid

With fancies especially when buying online, you want a vendor who has an eye for picking out beauties for you, and someone whom you can trust. DBL is recommended because other PSers have had positive experiences working with him, so I think you should be in safe hands. Another avenue would be GOG, try calling them both and see what they can find for you given your specs. As for the proportions for the traps, you can ask DBL/GOG to pick out some suitable pairs once you have selected your center stone and photograph it beside your stone to see if the proportions look right.

You mentioned she likes big diamonds, but is she aware that radiants and asschers look smaller than their carat weight, relative to a round? Also in the event if she intends to upgrade her diamond, it would be more difficult to sell, unless the vendor accepts fancies as trade-ins.
 

turboLT

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Re: Need help w/a radiant 3 stone engagement ring (trapezoid

Re: radiants and asschers looking smaller relative to carat weight, she did not know that and ill mention it to her. Ditto on the trade in.

Edit: thought about this some more. I wonder at what point this stuff starts not to matter if she likes the stone style? The more I read about it, the less I like the cut and certainly wouldn't select it for myself.
 

pandabee

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Re: Need help w/a radiant 3 stone engagement ring (trapezoid

JulieN|1354064077|3316927 said:
I think you are looking for something like this, check out the video. https://www.artofplatinum.com/vault/classic-three-stone-cushion-engagement-ring

OP I don't have any advice but hubba hubba this is one gorgeous ring!!! Like DS mentioned, radiants unfortunately face up quite small for their carat size so that may definitely change the game a bit. How about emerald cuts? (just to throw something else at you)
 

milton333

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Re: Need help w/a radiant 3 stone engagement ring (trapezoid

I am very partial to the look of a square/rectangular center with trap sides. You're unlikely to find a well-proportioned setting with traps that's "on a shelf," it's probably best to have the person who sells you the center stone source the traps to ensure they balance well with the center stone. You should call Diamonds by Lauren, don't just rely on what's on the website.

On the "face up" issue - it's not as clear-cut as squarish stones face up smaller than rounds. Squarish stones tend to have smaller diameters than round stones of the same carat weight, but they generally have equivalent surface area. If you're math inclined, it's Pi times radius squared for surface area for rounds, length times width for surface area for squares or rectangles. I've been tuned into the "square face-up" debate for many years now, and it seems to me that different people perceive size differently. For some, squares look equivalent to the same carat rounds because there's just as much face-up diamond surface area. For others, they tend to gauge size by the amount of finger showing on either side of the diamond, as it's a clear benchmark, and the round would "win" in that scenario.

All this is to say that if she likes a square stone, I'd either be shopping for a squarish stone or double-checking with her about how she perceives face-up size.

Also, my dream upgrade is to a big Octavia brand asscher diamond from goodoldgold.com These really do face up a bit smaller, because they're deeper - cut with a higher crown that maximizes fire. They have ideal light performance and are fairly unique. Jonathan at GOG is great to work with and can show you videos of stones and put a setting together for you, too. I have no financial interest, but would recommend this vendor. My "someday" upgrade is to an Octavia with trap sides.
 

Alexiszoe

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Re: Need help w/a radiant 3 stone engagement ring (trapezoid

If she intends to trade up for a larger/different diamond later, getting a RB would probably be the safest. Most PS vendors have trade up policies but either only for their premium diamonds (which are mostly super ideal H&A rounds) or for rounds within certain specs (IDJ). The only vendor I know where you can trade in a fancy for full credit is James Allen.

If she has no intention of trading it in/selling it and using the money for an upgrade later in life, and wants to maximize on size, pear, oval and marquise would face up the largest.

Have you guys gone shopping for rings together? Pictures versus IRL are very different for some folks - for me I find that I end up falling for very different styles when I see the rings in person compared to what I like based on photos.
 

Rockdiamond

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Re: Need help w/a radiant 3 stone engagement ring (trapezoid

Hi all
Alexiszoe- Our trade up policy does include fancy shapes. We also usually allow the clients trade the ring we made for them as well as the center diamond.
 
D

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Re: Need help w/a radiant 3 stone engagement ring (trapezoid

The first vendor I thought of when you said 3-stone with radiants and trapezoids was Leon Mege.
 

Rosebloom

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Re: Need help w/a radiant 3 stone engagement ring (trapezoid

YayTacori said:
The first vendor I thought of when you said 3-stone with radiants and trapezoids was Leon Mege.

Same here. He has a genius eye for proportions.
 

turboLT

Rough_Rock
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Sep 26, 2012
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Re: Need help w/a radiant 3 stone engagement ring (trapezoid

First, thank you to everyone who has offered tips and advice so far. Instead of a million replies I figured I'll just address a bunch in one post.

We have been shopping together several times, and thank God we did it. At first she thought she wanted Halo, then she was set on a yellow diamond for a few weeks, but it's been a couple months and she till likes 3 stone radiants and to a lesser extent, cushions, so that's what I'm gonna go with.

I'm glad I actually requested a quote from LM. Im sure a 3ct stone (linked above) is way out of my price range (I drive an old Volvo lol) but the form was pretty in depth and the concierge sounds promising. I'm also looking forward to reaching out to others mentioned above including dbl.

Re emeralds: that's a great suggestion. We actually looked at those last weekend but she still prefers the radiants.

Re size & finger space: I think this might work out well for me actually. Her fingers and hands are SMALL, so hopefully very little finger will show anyway. I'm actually curious if she could wear a 3ct 3 with traps without the other 2 side stones spreading out her middle and pinky fingers.


This is off topic so I hesitate to even post it, but my biggest takeaway form all this is the diamond retail industry is incredibly similar to the capital markets. Individual "investors" commit the same fallacies regarding what they paid for an asset, what to buy, hiding losses, etc, and a sellers are market making like S&T desks at investment banks. It's amusing, and this site has been a breath of fresh air.
 

Niel

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Re: Need help w/a radiant 3 stone engagement ring (trapezoid

I would go with engagement rings direct (i think one of the PP said this )
they do beautiful work and I think they might be more in your budget, sense I know leon would be pricy and she wants the most ct for the cost. Also I would go to an H, going down color size will really allow for you get get a larger stone, and it starts to matter at larger ct sizes. I have a pear and those show much more of their body color than RBs do, its an H and I really dont ever see any color at all, looks colorless. So just consider that she really probably wont tell a differnce in H vs G, especially when set in a platinum setting
 

Alexiszoe

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Re: Need help w/a radiant 3 stone engagement ring (trapezoid

Rockdiamond|1354103050|3317241 said:
Hi all
Alexiszoe- Our trade up policy does include fancy shapes. We also usually allow the clients trade the ring we made for them as well as the center diamond.

David,

that is good to know, since I love fancies! Do all fancies get full credit or a percentage of the amount paid for the trade up?

turboLT,

I don't think side stones showing would be a problem of your diamond "spreading out" when the setting is custom made and you can tweak it to your specs. - I had the opportunity to try on a 3 carat pear with trillions and my finger is a size 3.25. (the ring i believe was made for someone with a 4.5 finger!) and there wasn't any problems as mentioned.
 

Rockdiamond

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Re: Need help w/a radiant 3 stone engagement ring (trapezoid

Alexiszoe|1354129455|3317566 said:
Rockdiamond|1354103050|3317241 said:
Hi all
Alexiszoe- Our trade up policy does include fancy shapes. We also usually allow the clients trade the ring we made for them as well as the center diamond.

David,

that is good to know, since I love fancies! Do all fancies get full credit or a percentage of the amount paid for the trade up?

turboLT,

I don't think side stones showing would be a problem of your diamond "spreading out" when the setting is custom made and you can tweak it to your specs. - I had the opportunity to try on a 3 carat pear with trillions and my finger is a size 3.25. (the ring i believe was made for someone with a 4.5 finger!) and there wasn't any problems as mentioned.

Thank you turbolt!
Yes, the diamond gets full value back on a subsequent purchase of double or more- and as I mentioned, in many cases ring and side stones come back at full value as well.

Re finger size: I think it's a very important consideration in selecting stones.
The angle of the side diamonds is certainly affected by a super small size.
I remember a ring we did once with a 3ct center, about .80cts on each side- and a finger size of 2.75.
In that case, the side diamonds were emerald cuts- meaning they spread less side to side and more vertically along the finger, which allowed the high total weight on a small finger.
I think trills, for example, would not have worked.
So it is possible to fit some honkin' stones on smaller fingers if you are sensitive to what they will look like in the ring.
 
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