Need advice on emerald ring: is too clean of an emerald (in terms of clarity) a bad thing when it comes to glow?

[Pinkmartini87]

Hi all, I’m in the market for an authentic antique and ring. I am eyeing this emerald ring to purchase.

Questions:
1. Is the lab (GCS-gemological certification services, UK) reliable?
2. This emerald looks really clean to me and per report is insignificantly treated. I know these are both obviously good things when it comes to emeralds. But, I don’t see a lot of glow. Is the lack of glow due to the lack of inclusions? Aka is it too clean of an emerald? Are the best emeralds (optimizing, color, and glow) actually those that are not super clean?
3. What do folks think about the color?
4. What do folks think about the price from both the antique jewelry perspective, as well as the colored stone perspective?
5. Anyone purchased from this vendor before? I’m in the US. Vendor is in the UK.
6. For a pretty clean emerald such as this, would I still need to baby it? Ie I like jewelry that I can wear on a daily basis without worrying about it too much.

Link to ring below:

Exceptional, Edwardian, Colombian emerald & diamond ring

I have never had such a perfect emerald, this whole ring is exquisite. It's not the biggest but it is definitely the best of the best and would be well suited to someone who has an appreciation for immaculate pieces. I love the angular cut and setting of this stone, its rare to see a square-cut...

www.antiqueringboutique.com

And photos for those who don’t wish to click on the link:

 

[Mrsz1ppy]

I am no expert, but what strikes me about this stone is the window, and that it doesn’t seem very saturated. I love the setting.

 

[Avondale]

what strikes me about this stone is the window

Same. The material looks glowy enough, but the window just kills it.

 

[Neptune]

Gosh, what a gorgeous ring! I would wear that baby carefully but regularly.

 

[newtojewels]

I have 0 emerald knowledge but I love the ring as a whole!

 

[LilAlex]

Is the lack of glow due to the lack of inclusions? Aka is it too clean of an emerald? Are the best emeralds (optimizing, color, and glow) actually those that are not super clean?

This is why flawless untreated emeralds are so cheap.

Similar question for ruby, sapphire, Paraiba. Still way better to have clarity -- with maybe a hint of silk for the first two.

Glow is somewhere between "feature" and "bug," imo. Like how my brother was sold a house on a busy street because the realtor assured him that his kids would grow up super-savvy around traffic! It's a bug that gets spun as a feature.

I agree -- glow does matter. Spouse has a pair of tiny old Mogok pancake-shallow rubies/dark pink sapphires that are perimeter-only mounted in minimal earrings. They have GIA reports and are "transparent" but they were sold to us many years ago as probably I1 clarity which is quite dreadful for sapphire. But in full sun they light up like bright pink LEDs.

I think if a crystalline emerald does not knock your socks off, then: 1) it's a bad photo; 2) it's undersaturated (which should still make for a gorgeous, if not trade-ideal, stone); or 3) it's poorly cut. I don't know which, if any, apply. I would need to see it in person. i don't think it looks bad because it's too clean.

 

[Pinkmartini87]

@Mrsz1ppy and @Avondale Agreed. For a clean stone I’m somewhat underwhelmed but could not quite articulate why—until I read your posts. Yes, maybe it’s the window which affects the lack of intensity or color, or maybe the stone itself is just a tad lighter green, but it just doesn’t knock my socks off. The setting on the other hand is a dream.

@Neptune & @newtojewels Yes, what caught my eye is the beautiful original antique setting.

@LilAlex I was hoping you’d stop by! Wisdom served with wit—you never disappoint! Yes, there’s something missing from this 25k ring and I suppose if the setting does it for me more than the stone I should keep looking and let that Christmas bonus smolder a bit longer. The site has a lot of photos in diff lighting and none blew me away so I don’t think it’s poor photos, so I think you may be spot on that it could be due to the cut (it’s a pretty shallow stone, only 3 mm in depth for a 1ct emerald, hence the window), plus/minus the green hue saturation itself being a bit on the lighter side. Def a ring I’d have to see in person to make the call.

 

[dk168]

Not an expert, just wanted to say for 25k (assuming it is USD), I would look for an unset new Emerald first, and have a custom setting made using this ring as inspiration.

I definitely would not pay 25k USD for this ring, not for a 1ct Emerald with an obvious window, no more that 6k USD would be my limit.

DK

 

[T L]

I think the window is pretty substantial, and takes away from the glow more than a clean well cut stone would. Emeralds don’t have to be precision cut, but you at least want one with good proportions. I think of the “Hooker emerald” at the Smithsonian, which is a large stone in a gorgeous setting, but plagued by an enormous window, which ruins the glow. I’ve seen it in person and it glows only along the edges, and is dead in the middle.

While a pretty color, I would argue that as the “best of the best. “. It seems to be a medium toned, moderately strong saturation, not a medium dark tone and vivid saturation as fine Columbian emeralds are. At 1.1 carats, it seems a bit expensive too, but perhaps you’re paying more for the vintage setting than the stone.

 

[minousbijoux]

While I think the hue and saturation level is stunning, I would not be able to wrap my mind around that price tag! I would spend all my time obsessing over the window and not enjoying it much - though it is a lovely ring!

 

[Pinkmartini87]

@T L You are one of the emerald experts on PS so thank you as always for the valuable teaching. Yes, I’ve seen the Hooker emerald—so big and yet so disappointing lol. I’m partial to the Rockefeller emerald myself.

@minousbijoux Yes, for the $ I’d expect this emerald to take me to dinner and a show! I really like it, but I don’t love love love it, so I think after everyone’s helpful advice here I’m going to pass.

 

[T L]

@T L I’m partial to the Rockefeller emerald myself.

Ok now THAT stone is the “best of the best!”