Find your diamond
Find your jewelry
shape
carat
color
clarity

My great meeting w/ VICTOR CANERA! Help me finalize my ring

CherryBlossom

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jan 20, 2011
Messages
311
This is a VERY long post because I know there are others here on PS who are really into the craftsmenship of jewelry, so I wanted to share with all of you everything that I recently learned. Last week I got to spend a good 3 1/2 hours over at Victora Canera's studio in Los Angeles. Ladies, I got to see some amazing jewelery! and he allowed me to take so many pictures. We had a whirlwind marathon session meeting and I am so grateful for the time that he spent w/ my mom, aunt, and I. Some may know that I have been VERY indecisive when it comes to my e-ring. I went from loving blue sapphires, to cushions, round brilliants, colored diamonds, back to RB.

I know that my views on some things mentioned below may not be the norm, but they are important to ME. Still, I apologize for sounding preachy. The process of designing my ring was special for my partner and I because we may never spend the type of money that we're spending on our "production" aka wedding... so why not use this opportunity to actually support artisans who are doing work that we admire. Although I want a relatively typical setting that many others already have (a nice solitaire or Harry Winston inspired halo & pave) I am certain that I want it to be a handmade piece made by someone who loves their work and someone who wouldn't mind all of my questions... I am very sentimental when it comes to my engagement ring, I want to do this right just one time and making this ring my forever setting. I think that jewelery - especially sentimental pieces that are meant to be worn for life and passed on as heirloom pieces - are so special, and the hands that touch/create them are a part of that process. So when it came to my ring, I wanted to get to know the designer. I spent the past few months researching SO MANY designers and just couldn't find the perfect one for me. It made me sad to realize that there are very few vendors who still spend time employing lost or old techniques which are usually passed down from one generation to another. These skills are no longer used because it just takes too much time, and although in the end an incredible high quality piece is created, some vendors are just not interested in doing the work that it takes. Which is why I wanted to support these techniques, not only because I would end up with an exceptionally well made ring, but also because I would be doing my part to ensure that these techniques would not be lost forever... and that we don't just end up w/ a bunch of mass produced items.

After searching for a long time I fell for various pieces by MCII and my fiance was days away from pulling the trigger on one of their pieces, But during that same EXACT week Angietaren posted pictures of her amazing ring and ring making process: [URL='https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/hand-crafting-my-victor-canera-ring-from-scratch.155293/']https://www.pricescope.com/community/threads/hand-crafting-my-victor-canera-ring-from-scratch.155293/[/URL] I had never seen her on PS before, but if she's reading this I want her to know I am SO grateful for her post!! If it had not been for her I would never have heard of Victor Canera. Right away I knew he was the designer for me. I reached out to him and was pleasantly surprised to find an individual who not only made incredible jewelery, but someone who was truly passionate about what they were doing, had no problem answering my questions or helping to educate me on jewelery craftsmanship and techniques. I spent the past few weeks (months actually) emailing everything from videos, images, drawings, etc. back and forth. He's helped me learn about his style and design & has been sooooo patient with me and answered all of my questions. To date we've sent nearly 79 emails back and forth. Yes, true story.

I quickly realized that I knew very little about the difference between a "100% hand made/forged" ring and a "casting free" ring. Victor actually pointed out to me that since there aren't any real regulations in the industry, “hand made“ is defined in many different ways in the industry. I really appreciated that for him and his jewelry it meant fully “casting free”. The issue of hand made vs casting free reminded me a lot about misleading "organic" food labels. Due to lack of federal standards, and high consumer demand, the organics market has grown into a $53 billion a year business, making it the fastest growing segment of the food industry. Yet USDA shortcomings mean that consumers, who may usually end up paying twice as much for organic products, don't usually get what they expect. So you may be purchasing a box of cereal that says "organic!" and assume that every item in the product is 100% organic, when in actuality there's only ONE or tww organic product (usually the organic cane sugar or organic soy bean oil) But I digress...

I didn't actually think that there was a big difference between a ring that was made via casting and a ring that was handmade. I assumed that cast piece MUST be just as great, why else would all these vendors employ such tactics? I didn't appreciate the difference until I got to see and compare it for myself. At his studio, I got to see a wide array of handmade pieces. We had also brought in a few of our own cast pieces to compare. Victor showed me the exact areas where the difference suddenly stood out between a cast ring, and a hand made one. These were bare mountings without diamonds on them. The difference was huge. Earlier, in our email conversations he had sent me pics of two bare hand forged mountings to show me the difference. Here they are:

2.jpg.png
1_0.png

Of course after he showed me this, I was going to annoy him w/ more questions I also know that many of you wanted specific info on the primary differences between a 100% hand forged ring and a ring that was made via casting. So here is just some of the explanations he gave me in via email “In the cast pieces you lose the fine details, the crisp angles, the sharp joints that you gain by hand making a ring. Since a ring we make is made from dozens of parts like metal plates, prongs, and tubes that are assembled together. each part can be cleaned and polished and then put together to make a ring. That's why inside parts of a ring, underneath a halo for example are clean. When you cast this item, there really isn't a tool that can reach those crevices and clean those areas. That's why it'll look like molten metal there. Prongs are perfectly round, shanks are perfectly shaped, no waviness, everything is just spot on.”

I see now why casting pieces just look more manufactured (to my sensitive eye anyway)

He goes on in another e-mail “because as soon as you cast a piece, casting creates a pockmarked skin and adds imperfections on the surface of the metal that has to be filed down and cleaned to make it look good. Also, you'll never be able to get the level of almost microscopic detail with casting that you get with hand forged jewelry. Symmetrically, hand forged jewelry rivals CAD\CAM I've heard people say that since a piece isn't symmetrical in an area or something it must be hand made. That's not really true. Hand forged pieces are usually made with pairs of parts. For example the cathedral part of a ring are made up of two "wings" that give the shank this design. Since you're working with pairs of parts, it's unlikely that it'll be asymmetrical. Also, hand forged metal is actually more durable than cast metal. The reason is that after melting the platinum ingots, we methodically hammer the material to pack the molecules closer together, make it more dense. This makes it a bit more scratch resistant than cast metal.”

I was personally very fascinated w/ this part of the process because in my organic chemistry metal working class I had a professor whose always talked about this... After examining various pieces that I had brought in - which were made via casting - next to the hand forged pieces he creates, I saw such a big difference. It's difficult to explain, but the details are just more clean, the curves and the angles move in a way that I had not seen before, it just looked totally different to me. I could not go back after that. I was already hooked, line, and sinker. After nearly 6 months of searching, I found the right person to make my e-ring. Ifeel lucky that he's here in Southern CA so that I can actually watch some of the process up close. My mom also commissioned him to remake a ring for her.

Now, the nitty gritty details and info are over, I need you guys to help me when it comes to specific design. If I go w/ the setting that has pave, what kind of pave should I use?

As far as the pave goes, a part of me is drawn to the v-cut/cutdown/craponia look but I feel like it'll be tooooo blingy for me... I am also afraid of the durability of this type of pave... could those of who have them (for more than a few years) please chime in? have you had stones fall out? I am leaning towards a brightcut look... Victor told me that at the end of the day, bright cut is safer than the other types of pave since the girdles of the diamonds are not exposed and the stones never really fall out. The de-forming of the band is also much less of an issue since you're not creating grooves horizontally on a shank thereby weakening it, but making small holes instead. One suggestion that he made if I really want v-cut/craponia/cutdown pave is to have use slightly smaller diamonds whereby the grooves made on the shank are not as deep and don't weaken the shank as much.

After our meeting he emailed me me this to help me make up my mind, I am leaning towards the Brightcut pave, what do you all think?

3.jpg.png
He also told me that another way to keep a ring from de-forming is to make the shank from a plate of metal (squarish) as opposed to wire of metal (round) which is stronger because of the shape. He said that although he appreciates that people love the look of 1.4mm thick shanks but that's most likely going to cause them problems in the future either with the shank deforming and\or diamonds falling out. His recommendation for my ring was to go with at least a 2mm shank... which is similar to the Harry Winston micropave replica size (1.8mm)

Okay I think that's all for now.......... on to the pictures. The 3 rings in the first picture are my fave, the others in the picture are not really in consideration for my e-ring because they are my mom/aunt picks and I think they secretly want to get it for themselves ;-) still they were very pretty and I figured you all want too oogle them. Alright, give me your pick!! which one do you like best? Ring 1 (on left) 2 (in middle) or 3 (on right)

4.jpg.png
_MG_0646.jpg
_MG_0653.jpg
 

orchidlala

Rough_Rock
Joined
Dec 30, 2010
Messages
34
Re: My great meeting w/ VICTOR CANERA! Help me finalize my r

This is one of the best and most informative posts that I have ever seen posted on this website. I am so glad that someone else likes MC2 as much as I do. I feel the same way that you do about handmade jewelery, so thank you so much for taking the time to write all of this out Cherryblossom. Do any of you know if Victor Canera is a Pricescope vendor?

By the way, I was in your same exact position a while ago and really wanted a Harry Winston replica, but after seeing some very deformed shanks I decided against it and opted to go with a Tiffany Legacy inspired replica. Do you know what size pointers you would use if you did a setting with pave in it?
 

momofive

Rough_Rock
Joined
Mar 13, 2011
Messages
42
Re: My great meeting w/ VICTOR CANERA! Help me finalize my r

I can't believe I'm saying this, because I love halos, but for some reason, I like ring #1 with the bright wb. Good luck. These are fun problems to have.
 

mrssalvo

Super_Ideal_Rock
Joined
Jan 3, 2005
Messages
19,132
Re: My great meeting w/ VICTOR CANERA! Help me finalize my r

Cherryblossom, thank you for taking the time to write all of this out. I think your assessment is very informative and this can be a thread we can point others to in the future. You put into words my feelings on handmade vs. cast and I couldn't agree with you more. It's quite interesting how the whole process works!!

All of those rings you posted are gorgeous. I'd seriously be happy with any of them :)) I may have missed it but what size/shape in your center stone? That will play a factor in which setting would be my top choice.
 

slg47

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Apr 4, 2010
Messages
9,667
Re: My great meeting w/ VICTOR CANERA! Help me finalize my r

yes, thank you for your detailed and informative post! it has been really awesome to see more of Victor's work on PS lately...everything is just so beautifully crafted.
 

Hospatogi

Brilliant_Rock
Joined
Nov 18, 2010
Messages
668
Re: My great meeting w/ VICTOR CANERA! Help me finalize my r

Thank you for posting this ! Victor's work is beautiful ! You are going to have one gorgeous ring :)
 

Rock-a-Fella

Rough_Rock
Joined
Feb 18, 2011
Messages
39
Re: My great meeting w/ VICTOR CANERA! Help me finalize my r

I raise a glass to your second paragraph. I couldn't agree more. Thank you for such a great post.
 

bright ice

Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
May 14, 2010
Messages
4,086
Re: My great meeting w/ VICTOR CANERA! Help me finalize my r

How exciting Cherryblossom! What a great experience it must have been. I like the halo in the middle.

I am awaiting a ring from Victor as well. I should be getting it next week and I am SO excited to get it in my hands.
 

lknvrb4

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Nov 1, 2009
Messages
3,736
Re: My great meeting w/ VICTOR CANERA! Help me finalize my r

I like the first or the third one the best. Thank you for your informative post.
 

yennyfire

Ideal_Rock
Trade
Joined
Jun 6, 2010
Messages
6,523
Re: My great meeting w/ VICTOR CANERA! Help me finalize my r

Wow! You've received quite an education in your quest. Thanks for sharing it with us! To be honest, I can't decide which ring I like better...the halo or the solitaire with the pave band. Can't wait to see what you select!
 

Amys Bling

Super_Ideal_Rock
Joined
Jun 25, 2010
Messages
11,025
Re: My great meeting w/ VICTOR CANERA! Help me finalize my r

I love halos but I also like the other two styles better 
 

CherryBlossom

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jan 20, 2011
Messages
311
Re: My great meeting w/ VICTOR CANERA! Help me finalize my r

Orchid - I am not sure if he's a PS vendor who pays for ads on the site, but I have seen him post here a few times. If you want to get a hold of him try to contact him via his website. I am not sure if I can directly link there... not sure if it's against the rules or not. But if you google Victor Canera it should pop right up. I called him first (at the number listed on the website) and emailed him after.
 

Laila619

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Apr 28, 2008
Messages
11,608
Re: My great meeting w/ VICTOR CANERA! Help me finalize my r

Great post! I love the halo!
 

yssie

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Aug 14, 2009
Messages
20,775
Re: My great meeting w/ VICTOR CANERA! Help me finalize my r

Oh, I was waiting for this post - fantastic writeup Cherry! It sounds like you had a really great meeting :appl:



I do have a question. Did you ultimately decide on the unplated white gold? If so I have a question for Victor, I hope he checks this thread (I can't imagine he won't, with that sort of endorsement :cheeky: ):

Some months ago we had this exchange -

Yssie|1301001964|2879405 said:
Victor Canera|1301001573|2879395 said:
Yssie|1301000256|2879365 said:
Victor Canera|1300985258|2879027 said:
Choice at the end of the day is a very positive thing for the consumer. Different techniques can be used for different designs, tastes, price points etc.

The OP asked about the visual \ physical difference between the two; you won't see as much of a notable difference on an extremely plain design, although you will lose the slightly better metal density of hand forging. If we had a plain metal band for example there won't be much of a difference. As you progress in complexity to an engagement ring for example requiring a center basket, that has more parts. the advantages of hand forging starts becoming more apparent. As you progress even more in complexity, like adding a cathedral shank, channel opening for stones etc. you'll see more and more of a gap opening up between casting and cast free designs.
The two manufacturing styles also have completely different business models. With hand forging, you're limited to making maybe 2 rings a week. With wax\cad\cam casting the amount of production you can produce is almost limitless, especially considering the skill set of the manufacturer doesn't need to be very high to do it. Historically wax based manufacturing has allowed manufacturers to raise their production level but it's lowered their quality level. You can't have it both ways unfortunately. I think it's not a coincidence that vintage jewelry made in the 1920s period are still around today. The platinum pieces from that period were hand forged and they're going to last a long time. Can we say that about jewelry that's being made today will be around in 80 years?

At the end of the day though I don't think it's about bragging rights but asking yourself what's important to you and Gypsy you're very right it's not a black and white comparison but one that depends on the project at hand.

Good luck.

What about gold (18k, 14k), are there significant advantages (density/porosity/etc) to hand forging over casting/pouring?

Does it depend very much on alloy composition - so, would you be more likely to recommend one over the other if yellow gold, white gold?
The hardness can be effected by alloy composition and mixture of platinum with other materials or gold with other alloys. The main density advantage from hand forging is from the hammering of the metal plates to pack the molecules tightly together before work is begun on the piece. The thing is, hand forged jewelry is made probably 99% of the time in Platinum. If somebody tells you a gold piece is hand made you should investigate that a bit more... There are many reasons for this. Since hand forging involves assembling many different parts and soldering them together, with gold you will see the soldering marks on the finished piece because there is no perfect way to match solder color to the ring. I personally don't like this. Since Platinum is one color, this won't happen. Platinum is malleable to work with and lends itself nicely to bending, shaping etc. Platinum also doesn't wear away over time like gold does. Lots of good reasons and because of them the finished product comes out nicer with Platinum.
The best combo to hand forge in white gold would be with a Palladium mixture. You might come accross a hand forged piece with this mixture but they're rare.

Hmm.. thanks for your detailed response.

I *love* the colour of my white gold ring (it's a nickel alloy, left it unplated, don't know the exact composition sadly but I'll call in to find out one of these days!) - I tried plat and actually didn't like the icy cold colour of the metal against my skin at all. But it doesn't sound like Ni-wg lends itself to handmade pieces, if I'm understanding what you're saying... visible solder marks would drive me batty!

Can you explain more about how you will/did circumvent this problem in making Cherry's piece? I have been wondering since I read this.
 

yssie

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Aug 14, 2009
Messages
20,775
Re: My great meeting w/ VICTOR CANERA! Help me finalize my r

Hmm. I appear to have killed this thread.

Bump for Cherry!
 

diamondseeker2006

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
55,816
Re: My great meeting w/ VICTOR CANERA! Help me finalize my r

I'd really love to see the side view of the rings, but as you can see from my avatar, I'd choose the plain solitaire and have him make the bright cut wedding band (with milgrain, for me!). :bigsmile:

I do appreciate handmade rings. Victor seems to do such a perfect job. Very impressive.
 

Victor Canera

Shiny_Rock
Trade
Joined
Oct 8, 2010
Messages
207
Re: My great meeting w/ VICTOR CANERA! Help me finalize my r

Yssie|1306029452|2927531 said:
Oh, I was waiting for this post - fantastic writeup Cherry! It sounds like you had a really great meeting :appl:



I do have a question. Did you ultimately decide on the unplated white gold? If so I have a question for Victor, I hope he checks this thread (I can't imagine he won't, with that sort of endorsement :cheeky: ):

Some months ago we had this exchange -

Yssie|1301001964|2879405 said:
Victor Canera|1301001573|2879395 said:
Yssie|1301000256|2879365 said:
Victor Canera|1300985258|2879027 said:
Choice at the end of the day is a very positive thing for the consumer. Different techniques can be used for different designs, tastes, price points etc.

The OP asked about the visual \ physical difference between the two; you won't see as much of a notable difference on an extremely plain design, although you will lose the slightly better metal density of hand forging. If we had a plain metal band for example there won't be much of a difference. As you progress in complexity to an engagement ring for example requiring a center basket, that has more parts. the advantages of hand forging starts becoming more apparent. As you progress even more in complexity, like adding a cathedral shank, channel opening for stones etc. you'll see more and more of a gap opening up between casting and cast free designs.
The two manufacturing styles also have completely different business models. With hand forging, you're limited to making maybe 2 rings a week. With wax\cad\cam casting the amount of production you can produce is almost limitless, especially considering the skill set of the manufacturer doesn't need to be very high to do it. Historically wax based manufacturing has allowed manufacturers to raise their production level but it's lowered their quality level. You can't have it both ways unfortunately. I think it's not a coincidence that vintage jewelry made in the 1920s period are still around today. The platinum pieces from that period were hand forged and they're going to last a long time. Can we say that about jewelry that's being made today will be around in 80 years?

At the end of the day though I don't think it's about bragging rights but asking yourself what's important to you and Gypsy you're very right it's not a black and white comparison but one that depends on the project at hand.

Good luck.

What about gold (18k, 14k), are there significant advantages (density/porosity/etc) to hand forging over casting/pouring?

Does it depend very much on alloy composition - so, would you be more likely to recommend one over the other if yellow gold, white gold?
The hardness can be effected by alloy composition and mixture of platinum with other materials or gold with other alloys. The main density advantage from hand forging is from the hammering of the metal plates to pack the molecules tightly together before work is begun on the piece. The thing is, hand forged jewelry is made probably 99% of the time in Platinum. If somebody tells you a gold piece is hand made you should investigate that a bit more... There are many reasons for this. Since hand forging involves assembling many different parts and soldering them together, with gold you will see the soldering marks on the finished piece because there is no perfect way to match solder color to the ring. I personally don't like this. Since Platinum is one color, this won't happen. Platinum is malleable to work with and lends itself nicely to bending, shaping etc. Platinum also doesn't wear away over time like gold does. Lots of good reasons and because of them the finished product comes out nicer with Platinum.
The best combo to hand forge in white gold would be with a Palladium mixture. You might come accross a hand forged piece with this mixture but they're rare.

Hmm.. thanks for your detailed response.

I *love* the colour of my white gold ring (it's a nickel alloy, left it unplated, don't know the exact composition sadly but I'll call in to find out one of these days!) - I tried plat and actually didn't like the icy cold colour of the metal against my skin at all. But it doesn't sound like Ni-wg lends itself to handmade pieces, if I'm understanding what you're saying... visible solder marks would drive me batty!

Can you explain more about how you will/did circumvent this problem in making Cherry's piece? I have been wondering since I read this.
Hi Yssie, it's difficult to match the solder color to the rest of the ring 100%. White gold rings are usually plated in Rhodium though so that would cover the soldering a bit. The thing is though, if a piece doesn't have a huge amount of parts that need to be assembled there would be less fewer parts soldered and therefore the soldering would be less apparent because there would be less of it. Setting pave (or engraving) around the soldered joints also helps to hide the soldered area. For example I would recommend against hand forging a 3 or 5 stone ring in gold. They have a large amount of parts, prongs etc. that are hand assembled and the soldering would be more apparent. Even in hand forged platinum pieces, you'll notice an extremely thin discolored area (just shows up in high polished areas like underneath a shank) where parts were assembled and soldered together. It's very difficult to tell on platinum pieces though.

Platinum is more durable than gold and will last longer especially on these pave pieces. Repolishing of a gold pave ring a few times wears out the prongs and makes the stones prone to falling out, not nearly so much on platinum.
 

yssie

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Aug 14, 2009
Messages
20,775
Re: My great meeting w/ VICTOR CANERA! Help me finalize my r

So it sounds like a combination of the style of the piece (some pieces have fewer joints, and designs lend themselves to hiding those joints better) and material (the colour of platinum vs. solder is less striking, so easier to disguise w/ shadows/pave/...) rather than actually *masking* the differences - with plating, say.


Thanks for the detail :))
 

stargurl78

Ideal_Rock
Joined
Apr 19, 2010
Messages
3,296
Re: My great meeting w/ VICTOR CANERA! Help me finalize my r

I like either the plain solitaire or the halo. Let us know what you end up deciding on!
 

CherryBlossom

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jan 20, 2011
Messages
311
Re: My great meeting w/ VICTOR CANERA! Help me finalize my r

Yssie|1306205407|2928798 said:
So it sounds like a combination of the style of the piece (some pieces have fewer joints, and designs lend themselves to hiding those joints better) and material (the colour of platinum vs. solder is less striking, so easier to disguise w/ shadows/pave/...) rather than actually *masking* the differences - with plating, say.


Thanks for the detail :))
Hi girl, I am sorry I kind of disappeared. I am in the middle of getting prepared for exams so whenever I get a mental break I check in here and go crazy with catching up and getting my jewelery fix... but reality hits pretty quick and I have to get back into school mode. Yeah, I see that Victor already explained most of it. I am still very interested in the unplated white gold, but it seems like the platinum is going to be a bit easier to work with. I am actually going to talk about this a little bit more with Victor to see what we can come up with. When you mention a combination of the styles, do you mean having the head made from platinum and the rest of the ring from unplated white gold?

The one main area that I am still worried about w/ platinum is that it will warp and change in shape over a long period of time. Many mention that's mainly a concern when it comes to rings w/ a very thin band, so hopefully it wont be a problem w/ my ring since it will not be super thin.

I do like the color of the unplated white gold the most.
 

yssie

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Aug 14, 2009
Messages
20,775
Re: My great meeting w/ VICTOR CANERA! Help me finalize my r

Well - from his explanation - looking at my threestone, there are so many places where there are joints between what could be separate parts - and there's nothing hiding them, no pave, no milgrain... I can see how a simpler or vastly more complex design lends itself better to hiding joints - by either having fewer joints in the first place, or by distracting you w/ other stuff going on, if not actually hiding them...

Good luck with your continuing conversations :)) let us know what you choose!
 

CherryBlossom

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jan 20, 2011
Messages
311
Re: My great meeting w/ VICTOR CANERA! Help me finalize my r

Yssie|1306352353|2930081 said:
Well - from his explanation - looking at my threestone, there are so many places where there are joints between what could be separate parts - and there's nothing hiding them, no pave, no milgrain... I can see how a simpler or vastly more complex design lends itself better to hiding joints - by either having fewer joints in the first place, or by distracting you w/ other stuff going on, if not actually hiding them...

Good luck with your continuing conversations :)) let us know what you choose!
I also read somewhere (or maybe heard it along the way) that platinum is easier to work with when it comes to engraving and delicate detailed work. It's softer at a certain temperature, which makes that process a bit easier and delicate. Do you have any info on that?
 

yssie

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Aug 14, 2009
Messages
20,775
Re: My great meeting w/ VICTOR CANERA! Help me finalize my r

I too have heard that plat is better for engraving and filigree, not sure why though - it seems kinda counterintuitive to me, given that plat is softer. Or, I guess, better for what, exactly, is the better question - better/easier to make, or better/more durable for wearing? Of course you don't wear away your plat over time like gold... Maybe start a new thread - the antiques people esp. probably know more!
 

dreamer_dachsie

Super_Ideal_Rock
Joined
Dec 16, 2007
Messages
24,364
Re: My great meeting w/ VICTOR CANERA! Help me finalize my r

I vote for bright cut pave on a squared shank because durability is a huge consideration in my book when it comes to pave.

As to style, that is up to you, I really cannot say! What size is the diamond?
 

Victor Canera

Shiny_Rock
Trade
Joined
Oct 8, 2010
Messages
207
Re: My great meeting w/ VICTOR CANERA! Help me finalize my r

Yssie|1306354426|2930116 said:
I too have heard that plat is better for engraving and filigree, not sure why though - it seems kinda counterintuitive to me, given that plat is softer. Or, I guess, better for what, exactly, is the better question - better/easier to make, or better/more durable for wearing? Of course you don't wear away your plat over time like gold... Maybe start a new thread - the antiques people esp. probably know more!
I don't want to hijack Cherry Blossom's thread but...
Platinum is a much more dense metal than gold. That's why platinum rings always end up being heavier. The density makes the rings stronger and for prongs that hold stones this is important. It's also a more gum like substance than gold which is more brittle. Both metals scratch but with platinum these scratches don't actually remove platinum from a piece. Platinum is malleable and keeps forms, this is advantageous when you're bending, rolling and pulling the metal through strainers, rolling mills etc. Platinum doesn't wear out like gold does either. Polishing a platinum mounting causes almost no loss in the metal weight while a gold piece could lose 10% of its weight with polishing. With micro pave, re-polishing the ring a couple of times and you've probably weakened the prongs holding the stones with a platinum piece this is much less of an issue. The color of Platinum is a white color which doesn't necessitate re-rhodiuming. Add to all this the solder discoloration issue mentioned above and you end up with a clear choice.
Metal is stronger when hand forged. We run the metal through rolling mills and hammer it this subjects the metal to huge pressure to compact the molecules together and makes it even denser than in its natural form. That's why shanks would be less likely to deform. Casting on the other hand can't be compacted this way and actually weakens the metal even more with porosity. Porosity are air bubbles that are introduced by casting into the metal. Sometimes this could be really bad (imagine swiss cheese) that it weakens the ring even more than metal in its natural form. Porosity will sometimes show up on the surface of the metal, sometimes not. When it shows up, it looks like small pinpoints on the metal surface and this could be a sign of large air bubbles underneath the surface. Hope this answers some of your questions.

P.S. I promise I don't work for the Platinum Guild:)
 

diamondseeker2006

Super_Ideal_Rock
Premium
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
55,816
Re: My great meeting w/ VICTOR CANERA! Help me finalize my r

Victor, we have debated the benefits of the metals many times here, but yours is the clearest explanation I have ever seen for platinum being the preferred choice for a handmade ring, especially. Thanks!
 

CherryBlossom

Shiny_Rock
Joined
Jan 20, 2011
Messages
311
Re: My great meeting w/ VICTOR CANERA! Help me finalize my r

Dreamer_D|1306354511|2930117 said:
I vote for bright cut pave on a squared shank because durability is a huge consideration in my book when it comes to pave.

As to style, that is up to you, I really cannot say! What size is the diamond?
Yup, I totally agree and I think that's what I am leaning towards.

Oh the specs are 1.30ct H VS2. Ex, Vg, Ex.
 

mrssalvo

Super_Ideal_Rock
Joined
Jan 3, 2005
Messages
19,132
Re: My great meeting w/ VICTOR CANERA! Help me finalize my r

CherryBlossom|1306600837|2932492 said:
Dreamer_D|1306354511|2930117 said:
I vote for bright cut pave on a squared shank because durability is a huge consideration in my book when it comes to pave.

As to style, that is up to you, I really cannot say! What size is the diamond?
Yup, I totally agree and I think that's what I am leaning towards.

Oh the specs are 1.30ct H VS2. Ex, Vg, Ex.
All the settings are so lovely that I'd have a hard time choosing!! Do you have a favorite? With your size stone you really could do any of them. I don't think it would be over the top to halo it but it would be plenty big for a solitaire as well! That halo in the pic is just divine though and I'd probably lean in that direction, if it were me :))
 
Be a part of the community It's free, join today!
    August Birthstones: Peridot And Sardonyx
    August Birthstones: Peridot And Sardonyx
    The Original: Princess Raiyah Of Jordan
    The Original: Princess Raiyah Of Jordan
    Celebratory Engagement Ring Upgrade And Bracelet
    Celebratory Engagement Ring Upgrade And Bracelet

Need Something Special?

Get a quote from multiple trusted and vetted jewelers.

Holloway Cut Advisor



Diamond Eye Candy

Click to view full-size image.
Top