My car is kaput......

[PreRaphaelite]

Sticking my oar in again, after a convo with my partner, who agreed with @OoohShiny about the lack of carburetor and had two questions... and one piece of advice.

Q) Is the auto shop that your car is at now, the same shop that did your most recent oil change? If they did a poor job they might realise they accidentally destroyed the engine and need to "CYA" with this diagnosis. Happens from time to time and most places do get away with it when they try it. This is not about dishonest mechanics - it's about dishonest service writers or their managers.

Q) Have you driven through any deep water in the last 3 months? Has anyone else borrowed the car that might have done it and not told you?

and advice:
Have it towed to another shop, preferably one who specialises in Mercedes, for a second opinion right away. Pay whatever small fee the first shop charges and move on. Don't tell the first shop where you're towing it, and don't give details of the first diagnosis to the second shop, just tell them the symptoms. You want an unbiased second opinion. If the second diagnosis matches the first, your car will be worth just as much scrap value at the second place as it was at the first place. If the diagnosis doesn't match.... well, then you'll know not to go back to the first shop with any other cars in the future.

And again, wishing you zero headaches and a happy resolution.

 

[Karl_K]

If it still spins I would get a second opinion.

 

[sledge]

Sorry, late to this thread. Been doing soccer dad stuff.

Agree with @OoohShiny tou have some confusing info. First, carbeurators became extinct in the late 80's to early 90's -- at least on mass produced vehicles.

https://www.google.com/amp/s/conten...-car-in-america-sold-with-a-carburetor-260855

Timing chains/belts are no joke and can create serious engine repairs when they fail. Replacing at recommended intervals are normally still expensive, but still much less than a complete failure. While many recommended intervals are in the 80k+ mile range, some require more frequent replacement.

Has a Mercedes dealer confirmed the recommended replacement range for you?

Without getting into the nuances of terminology and detail, while severe damage can be created, some of what your current shop is telling you seems wrong or possibly being explained here differently.

In either case, I believe a second opinion is warranted. Yes, it means a 2nd tow bill but that's a $100 or so and may be a drop in the bucket. Personally I'd take it to a trusted Mercedes dealer as you've eluded you ensured prestigious maintenance of engine service. If they tell you the same thing I'd ask for goodwill in the matter as valued customer and enthusiast. I have a buddy that works at a GMC dealer and they do this occasionally. Some they eat, some they partially eat and then take up reimbursement directly with GM.

Speaking of dealers, if the internals of the engine are thrashed so bad it doesn't make economic sense to replace, you can often order "crate motors" from the dealer. Basically slap a new engine in your existing car. They have varying levels usually so you can use some of your parts from the existing engine to reduce replacement costs. These options are normally more costly than a rebuilt or salvaged engine but are sometimes worth the premium depending what options you have available and the exact cost difference.

It is unusual to have such an issue on a vehicle with only 30k miles. That said, vehicles that sit for long periods wear differently than those driven on a daily basis. I drive a company vehicle daily but being aware of such make a point to drive my personal vehicles as often as practical.

FYI, here is a video of a timing chain that should be similar to yours. This is a 230c.

 

[missy]

These are on my “saved” list.

That is sweet.

Here is what is on my "save" list. But I know if I ever get one @rainwood would be displeased with me but haha no worries. You know I am never getting one. But a girl can dream right? I do know if I get one that dream could quickly become a nightmare so yeah never getting one. But so pretty to look at.

 

[jordyonbass]

That is sweet.

Here is what is on my "save" list. But I know if I ever get one @rainwood would be displeased with me but haha no worries. You know I am never getting one. But a girl can dream right? I do know if I get one that dream could quickly become a nightmare so yeah never getting one. But so pretty to look at.

Those are sweet @missy but there is only one red convertible that I want. Has anyone got a spare $5 million?

 

[missy]

Those are sweet @missy but there is only one red convertible that I want. Has anyone got a spare $5 million?

Haha what can I say Jordy? I am a simple girl at heart. Always have been and always will be.
If I had an extra cool 5$ Million you betcha I'd give it to you and your darling family for the car of your dreams. Until that day you have my best wishes

Gosh if money was limitless there are lots of people and animals I would love to shower gifts upon. Would love making dreams come true. Maybe one day. You never know.

 

[Bron357]

Man, this thread is going to make me sound like an argumentative, cynical internet keyboard warrior...

... but I still am strongly of the mind that you should seek a second opinion, Bron.


Is it a trusted garage you have used before?

Are you potentially being viewed as a lady who is gullible and could be taken advantage of, either through claiming work is needed when it's not, or through acquiring a great condition vehicle with a minor issue for scrap value that could then be fixed for pennies and sold on in another area as in excellent working order at full market value?


I know you Aussies appreciate straight-talking so I hope you don't mind me saying that I am still confused as to the explanations given.

To check, it is a W204 model C200 from 2010 with the Kompressor supercharged engine?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercedes-Benz_C-Class_(W204)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercedes-Benz_C-Class_(W204)#Engines

As mentioned earlier, these engines don't use carburettors - they are fuel injection only, so if the garage is saying it has carbs, that is a big red flag. Is that what they are saying??

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mercedes-Benz_M271_engine#KE18ML_(271.9XX)



Have they done a compression test on the cylinders to diagnose lack of compression? If so, have they given you the results?


I don't quite understand what they are saying about the timing chain breaking and cog sprocket things being drawn into the engine.

As mentioned previously, I have zero desire to 'mansplain'... so please accept my sincerest apologies if I am coming across as condescending!! but the timing chain creates a link between the camshafts in the head (which open and close the valves controlling the air/fuel coming into the cylinders) to the crankshaft in the bottom end (which the conrods connect to, the other end of which connects to the pistons). The timing chain is on the outside the engine, as are the cogs/sprockets it connects to on the end of the camshafts.

If the timing chain breaks or the cogs slip, the camshafts stop rotating in time with the crankshaft, and pistons and valves go out of time, meaning the pistons can smack into the valves, bending the valves usually because they are small, relatively fragile bits of metal.

As the cogs on the end of the camshafts, where the timing chain connects, are on the outside of the engine, I don't understand how the garage are saying they have been sucked into the engine - the only way that would happen is if they somehow fell into the air intake and got through the foam air filter, which I simply cannot see happening.

Have they shown you (in real life) the stripped cogs/sprockets?


I think it could be very worthwhile joining some internet forums specifically for Mercs, as suggested earlier, so you can get some geeks on the case

This thread seems to suggest the cam sprocket issue is a known issue, but that bent valves is the outcome (which I would expect):
https://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/...eplacing-the-m271-940-with-a-m271-957.176406/

This place looks pretty busy so you could hopefully search/ask and get a quick response - the first link covers an explanation of the likely issue:
https://forums.mbclub.co.uk/threads...erence-from-2002-to-2004.229159/#post-2519894
https://forums.mbclub.co.uk/search/1926119/?q=M271+sprocket+issue&o=date

You could also check out ebay for engine prices, if you have not already done so:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/WRECKIN...NE-TRANSMISSION-PANELS-INTERIOR-/162996476904

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Mercede...1-8-Kompressor-M271-C-CLC-Class-/273944770164

It could be worth searching for Sold / Finished auctions for your model of car with engine failure, to see if $2k is a reasonable offer for scrap - I feel that is low, given what all the parts could sell for.


I may well just be over-simplifying and not understanding the full impacts of sprocket failure on these engines, as I've only really skimmed the links above, but I think I would just summarise by saying I would not want you to be taken advantage of, I want you to be in a position of knowledge and therefore power, and I hope you can find a cheaper fix than writing your whole car off!!

Thank you for caring and explaining. I do feel I have “done a degree in car mechanics” this past week. My bad, the thing with the teeth is a camshaft. The teeth on it, that the timing chain runs on, have sheared off and those bits went everywhere and the pistons got bent. So that’s why they say a new engine. And yes it’s the W271 engine, a 2010 model clc200. The problem we have here in Australia is repairs and parts are extremely expensive. We pay like more than twice as much here. My mechanic is 110% reliable, he did all the testing for free and he said no compression on any cylinder so that indicative of catastrophic failure. And 3 places I rang enquiring about repairing didn’t even want the job, at any price. Which is why my local mechanic didn’t want the job. He is a two man shop and he does more general work and lots of it. He doesn’t have the time or space to do it. Mercedes of course will do it, but I’ll need to sell my house to afford their repair! As for scrap, again similar issue. Older cars here are quickly “written off” because the cost of repairs is more than the car is worth. So basically the scrap guys are buying only the bumpers, doors and bonnet. While my car has the lovely leather seats, someone with cloth or fake leather won’t want to spend $1,000 having my leather seats fitted. Sure, some handy guy or gal might come along but the scrap guy doesn’t rely on that. Ditto the sound system, the command system, the lingtronics system. Cost of retro fitting or replacing such items on a 9 (I can’t add, it’s 9 not year old car is just not worth it.
And obviously if it was a very desirable Merc, like proper vintage or a 500SL or a C63, some handy guy or gal would buy it repair. It would be a worthwhile project. But a daggy CLC 200 is nobodies idea of a project car!
And it this had happened 8 months ago, my Dad could have done it. Dad, although 82, has rebuilt a number of cars from boxes of parts to Concourse winners. Sadly he sold off all his equipment earlier this year as he didn’t want to do another car, too old. Bummer, even he said that!
So while putting a replacement engine is is feasible, it’s going to be a 150,000 km engine, treated ???? By previous owner at a huge cost (labour cost). And who is to say I won’t end up with other problems. Replacement engines here only come with a 30 day “labour” warranty. They say “all care taken but no responsibility accepted”. So that’s the dilemma. The best option I found was a same model car to mine but with really low kms on it. I would just be buying it for the engine. But the old bloke still wants like $14,000, way too much, but that’s the price he wants.
So I can scrap it for whatever paltry amount I can get, replace the engine with a dubious second hand engine, spend even more and at least get a low kms engine to fit.
Sigh.

 

[Bron357]

That is sweet.

Here is what is on my "save" list. But I know if I ever get one @rainwood would be displeased with me but haha no worries. You know I am never getting one. But a girl can dream right? I do know if I get one that dream could quickly become a nightmare so yeah never getting one. But so pretty to look at.

OMG, it’s MGs that my Dad has restored (3) to concourse condition. He still has one. Others were sold. They are really great and fun cars.

 

[Bron357]

Sorry, late to this thread. Been doing soccer dad stuff.

Agree with @OoohShiny tou have some confusing info. First, carbeurators became extinct in the late 80's to early 90's -- at least on mass produced vehicles.

https://www.google.com/amp/s/conten...-car-in-america-sold-with-a-carburetor-260855

Timing chains/belts are no joke and can create serious engine repairs when they fail. Replacing at recommended intervals are normally still expensive, but still much less than a complete failure. While many recommended intervals are in the 80k+ mile range, some require more frequent replacement.

Has a Mercedes dealer confirmed the recommended replacement range for you?

Without getting into the nuances of terminology and detail, while severe damage can be created, some of what your current shop is telling you seems wrong or possibly being explained here differently.

In either case, I believe a second opinion is warranted. Yes, it means a 2nd tow bill but that's a $100 or so and may be a drop in the bucket. Personally I'd take it to a trusted Mercedes dealer as you've eluded you ensured prestigious maintenance of engine service. If they tell you the same thing I'd ask for goodwill in the matter as valued customer and enthusiast. I have a buddy that works at a GMC dealer and they do this occasionally. Some they eat, some they partially eat and then take up reimbursement directly with GM.

Speaking of dealers, if the internals of the engine are thrashed so bad it doesn't make economic sense to replace, you can often order "crate motors" from the dealer. Basically slap a new engine in your existing car. They have varying levels usually so you can use some of your parts from the existing engine to reduce replacement costs. These options are normally more costly than a rebuilt or salvaged engine but are sometimes worth the premium depending what options you have available and the exact cost difference.

It is unusual to have such an issue on a vehicle with only 30k miles. That said, vehicles that sit for long periods wear differently than those driven on a daily basis. I drive a company vehicle daily but being aware of such make a point to drive my personal vehicles as often as practical.

FYI, here is a video of a timing chain that should be similar to yours. This is a 230c.

Yes Sledge, my terminology was incorrect. In your photo it’s the cog thing that lost teeth when the timing chain slipped and those bits bent the pistons.
Full service history but not ALL Mercedes. The Merc dealership is just too far away from me and inconvenient. They want the car by 8am, have it all day, pick up after 4pm and charge an arm and a leg. And I don’t get a courtesy car! So Elias, 150 meters up the street, is my trusted mechanic.
Engine repair isn’t recommended, the labour cost is $$$$$ here and mainly because no one wants to do a “low rent” clc200. It’s so annoying, the two places I did find that would do the job were both still totally unenthusiastic. Dad concurred, too many lazy B’s in the world!

 

[jordyonbass]

Yes Sledge, my terminology was incorrect. In your photo it’s the cog thing that lost teeth when the timing chain slipped and those bits bent the pistons.
Full service history but not ALL Mercedes. The Merc dealership is just too far away from me and inconvenient. They want the car by 8am, have it all day, pick up after 4pm and charge an arm and a leg. And I don’t get a courtesy car! So Elias, 150 meters up the street, is my trusted mechanic.
Engine repair isn’t recommended, the labour cost is $$$$$ here and mainly because no one wants to do a “low rent” clc200. It’s so annoying, the two places I did find that would do the job were both still totally unenthusiastic. Dad concurred, too many lazy B’s in the world!

Hey Bron, not sure if you saw my post on the first page but if it is deemed to be a failure of the motor and a known issue for this car then you're potentially covered for a repair/replace/refund under consumer law here in Australia even though the warranty is elapsed. You've gotta talk to the Merc dealership though, they will know more about this kind of failure and if you will be covered (it's actually in their best interests to do the right thing by you if it has been a failure and not wear and tear as they get fined big time if they knock back the car for replacement when they shouldn't have).

 

[arkieb1]

I was going to say the same thing as the others, if it is something that should not happen no matter how old the car the Mercedes Dealer might be able to fix some of it for free, that is what happened when something major went wrong with my BMW, it still cost me nearly $4000AUD but it was originally a $10 000+ bill when my car stopped working and almost caught on fire (was smoking). BMW picked up the tab for some of it at least.

So it honestly might be worth all the effort to take it to the Mercedes dealer to just look at it. Although if anything has been repaired or replaced by a non Mercedes dealer that is now faulty that might void any lifetime warranty on the part. It would still be worth checking with them or at least phoning them explaining what is wrong with it and seeing what they say.

 

[sledge]

Sorry I haven't responded back before now. Been a little under the weather the last few days.

I feel for you @Bron357. This isn't a good position to be in, and I am sure you are beyond frustrated. I'd encourage you to not yet give up just yet and get the car to the Merc dealer. Even if they don't help you cover part of the bill, at least you will have a second opinion.

Also, I would encourage you to visit the NHTSA website to determine if there are any recalls for your specific vehicle that might be able to be linked to this malfunction. It's a long shot, but it's free and takes a few seconds.

https://www.nhtsa.gov/recalls?gclid...uRJAf899k_VoV0bCx8gaAugeEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

It's unusual to experience a failure without some type of a warning sign. Some common things is rattling of the engine at idle, rough idling, misfiring (aka backfiring), lost or reduced compression resulting in poor performance and sometimes metal shavings in your oil which are detectable during routine oil changes. Many times a check engine light will pop on as well.

Has anything catastrophic happened? Perhaps you hit something in the road, ran out of oil and continued to drive until an engine light came on? Or maybe you had overheating of some sort? Have you verified your local mechanic used the proper oil filters and correct oil type? Lower viscosity oil flows faster than higher viscosity which is slower. While oil type and filters may sound trivial they help ensure the tensioner gets properly lubricated & pressured so the chain doesn't develop slack in it.

I keep thinking back to that broken cog statement earlier. I'm sure the cogs are trashed. But it's the loss of the FUNCTION of the cogs that created the problem. In an interference engine, the timing chain turns the engine camshaft at half speed of the crankshaft. The camshaft then opens & closes the intake & exhaust valves in sync with the pistons that move up & down.

Below is a video that I converted to an animated GIF so you could have a visual reference. See how the the space at the top is "shared". When you get a slack or slip in the chain, you have small timing differences that causes the rough idle, misfires, etc. When the chain finally breaks, while running, the timing is lost and the internals of the engine smash together and create a mess.

 

[Bron357]

Update....
Good news......
The guys I rang about “scrapping the car” and towed the car to after finding it difficult to get any mechanic on board / without huge expense, rang me back.
“Your little car is much too nice to scrap, our mechanic section has had a quick look and think it’s repairable. Do you want us to put it up on the hoist have a better look and give you a repair quote?”
Yes please.
So $3,900 later and she will be all better.
And the mechanic guy says “what we do after fixing is drive the car 50 kms to check the engine and then put it back up on the hoist to check there’s no leakages or anything. Is that ok?
A mechanic who not only checks their work, actually asks permission to drive your car!
Happy days are here again

 

[Bron357]

Sorry I haven't responded back before now. Been a little under the weather the last few days.

I feel for you @Bron357. This isn't a good position to be in, and I am sure you are beyond frustrated. I'd encourage you to not yet give up just yet and get the car to the Merc dealer. Even if they don't help you cover part of the bill, at least you will have a second opinion.

Also, I would encourage you to visit the NHTSA website to determine if there are any recalls for your specific vehicle that might be able to be linked to this malfunction. It's a long shot, but it's free and takes a few seconds.

https://www.nhtsa.gov/recalls?gclid...uRJAf899k_VoV0bCx8gaAugeEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

It's unusual to experience a failure without some type of a warning sign. Some common things is rattling of the engine at idle, rough idling, misfiring (aka backfiring), lost or reduced compression resulting in poor performance and sometimes metal shavings in your oil which are detectable during routine oil changes. Many times a check engine light will pop on as well.

Has anything catastrophic happened? Perhaps you hit something in the road, ran out of oil and continued to drive until an engine light came on? Or maybe you had overheating of some sort? Have you verified your local mechanic used the proper oil filters and correct oil type? Lower viscosity oil flows faster than higher viscosity which is slower. While oil type and filters may sound trivial they help ensure the tensioner gets properly lubricated & pressured so the chain doesn't develop slack in it.

I keep thinking back to that broken cog statement earlier. I'm sure the cogs are trashed. But it's the loss of the FUNCTION of the cogs that created the problem. In an interference engine, the timing chain turns the engine camshaft at half speed of the crankshaft. The camshaft then opens & closes the intake & exhaust valves in sync with the pistons that move up & down.

Below is a video that I converted to an animated GIF so you could have a visual reference. See how the the space at the top is "shared". When you get a slack or slip in the chain, you have small timing differences that causes the rough idle, misfires, etc. When the chain finally breaks, while running, the timing is lost and the internals of the engine smash together and create a mess.

Yes, the timing chain loosened enough to pull teeth of the cogs and lose compression.
But as can be the case with the Kompressor engine you don’t necessarily get a warning light or even a noise beforehand. That was why we were all so shocked. Her oil levels always correct and the right type, oil filter changes and servicing all up to date and on the surface, nowhere near the mileage to be thinking “timing chain due for replacement”.
The thought is that my driving habits being multiple short distances, and our colder days contributed to the chain “stretching” and it just “let go” as I tried to start it.

 

[missy]

Update....
Good news......
The guys I rang about “scrapping the car” and towed the car to after finding it difficult to get any mechanic on board / without huge expense, rang me back.
“Your little car is much too nice to scrap, our mechanic section has had a quick look and think it’s repairable. Do you want us to put it up on the hoist have a better look and give you a repair quote?”
Yes please.
So $3,900 later and she will be all better.
And the mechanic guy says “what we do after fixing is drive the car 50 kms to check the engine and then put it back up on the hoist to check there’s no leakages or anything. Is that ok?
A mechanic who not only checks their work, actually asks permission to drive your car!
Happy days are here again

Wonderful news @Bron357

 

[OoohShiny]

I'm glad there's a cheaper resolution! Fingers crossed all goes well!

Will they be replacing parts with updated/aftermarket parts that aren't at risk of doing the same thing again?

 

[sledge]

All things considered, excellent news @Bron357.

Was the $3,900 AUD or USD? I assume AUD given your location which equates to about $2,600 USD. If so that sounds very reasonable as you can easily spend $1,000 to $1,500 USD at a repair shop for a standard timing chain replacement.

Is it the salvage yard that is doing the repair? If so, you may ask if they are using new parts or pulling parts from existing vehicles in their yard to perform the repair.

Alas, it's weird the chain would stretch enough to jump but not make any noise. Normally you'd get a slight rattle as the slack would cause a minor slapping inside the case.

Who knows. I am just glad you are finding resolve to a very frustrating situation.

Maybe you can get them to do some "horse swapping". A diamond for engine repair. Puts a little power back on your side if they bite.

 

[Bron357]

I'm glad there's a cheaper resolution! Fingers crossed all goes well!

Will they be replacing parts with updated/aftermarket parts that aren't at risk of doing the same thing again?

Fortunately the parts are new genuine Mercedes parts, so not cheap!
And yes, the same thing could happen again - though apparently the cog thingy is now a better alloy (stronger) - as it’s a time/wear related issue. It should be no problem until around 70,000 plus kms, I do like 1,000 kms a week so I’ll be pushing up daisies long before then

 

[Bron357]

All things considered, excellent news @Bron357.

Was the $3,900 AUD or USD? I assume AUD given your location which equates to about $2,600 USD. If so that sounds very reasonable as you can easily spend $1,000 to $1,500 USD at a repair shop for a standard timing chain replacement.

Is it the salvage yard that is doing the repair? If so, you may ask if they are using new parts or pulling parts from existing vehicles in their yard to perform the repair.

Alas, it's weird the chain would stretch enough to jump but not make any noise. Normally you'd get a slight rattle as the slack would cause a minor slapping inside the case.

Who knows. I am just glad you are finding resolve to a very frustrating situation.

Maybe you can get them to do some "horse swapping". A diamond for engine repair. Puts a little power back on your side if they bite.

Yes Australian dollars. I didn’t realize the Company does European car servicing and repairs as well as scrap parts. The parts I received are brand new, not recycled.
And it may well have been making a slight noise, but once I shut the car door which blocks out noise, the music starts up (as it should) I wouldn’t have heard it unless it was loud.
I’m consoling myself by appreciating that it was only 1 x DK settings worth and not x3.

 

[sledge]

Will they be replacing parts with updated/aftermarket parts that aren't at risk of doing the same thing again?

Hahaha, do I need to start making a shopping list?

Cam with lots of lope. Check. Forged pistons. Check. Turbo charger with 10psi boost. Check.

Of course balanced and blue printed. Think picky ass diamond spec gurus times 10, except for your engine, if you aren't in the know, lol. Everything will be perfect.

Wait. What. Was I dreaming out loud again?

 

[sledge]

It should be no problem until around 70,000 plus kms, I do like 1,000 kms a week so I’ll be pushing up daisies long before then

What!?

Are we talking the same expression? This means you'll be dead.

70,000 / 1,000 per week = 70 weeks / 52 weeks per year = 1.35 years

Yes Australian dollars. I didn’t realize the Company does European car servicing and repairs as well as scrap parts. The parts I received are brand new, not recycled.
And it may well have been making a slight noise, but once I shut the car door which blocks out noise, the music starts up (as it should) I wouldn’t have heard it unless it was loud.
I’m consoling myself by appreciating that it was only 1 x DK settings worth and not x3.

Wow, very good price! Haha, and love how you already broke down to jewelry dollars.

And I agree about the rattling. And the music.

 

[Dee*Jay]

Funny coming across this thread... as I sit here at the Lexus service center. I came in for an oil change and regular 40k maintenance and now I also need an alignment ($180, thanks Chicago streets) and new brakes ($447, thanks Chicago traffic).

Better I suppose than when I took my 911 in this spring for an oil change (which is $627 as a matter of course) and ended up with 3 new tires due to construction nails (thanks Chicago road crews). I also needed a new strut to keep the trunk properly propped up. $2,637 out the door.

But I get “free” car washes at both places. And “free” coffee and fresh baked cookies.

(“Free” my a$$!)

I feel for you Bron!!! Big car hugs across the miles my friend!

 

[junebug17]

Update....
Good news......
The guys I rang about “scrapping the car” and towed the car to after finding it difficult to get any mechanic on board / without huge expense, rang me back.
“Your little car is much too nice to scrap, our mechanic section has had a quick look and think it’s repairable. Do you want us to put it up on the hoist have a better look and give you a repair quote?”
Yes please.
So $3,900 later and she will be all better.
And the mechanic guy says “what we do after fixing is drive the car 50 kms to check the engine and then put it back up on the hoist to check there’s no leakages or anything. Is that ok?
A mechanic who not only checks their work, actually asks permission to drive your car!
Happy days are here again

Wonderful news Bron357, I'm happy for you!

 

[sledge]

Better I suppose than when I took my 911 in this spring for an oil change (which is $627 as a matter of course) and ended up with 3 new tires due to construction nails (thanks Chicago road crews). I also needed a new strut to keep the trunk properly propped up. $2,637 out the door.

Ouch! Guessing the bulk was tires. Do anything special, or just go back OEM?

Oil changes on a 911 are naturally expensive because of the quantity of oil and quality of the parts, but $627 seems expensive. Many dealers are offering them for the $350+ range. Also, be careful with the "free" washes -- many times you get swirl marks in your paint.

Or if you don't mind getting your hands dirty, for $100 you can DIY after you buy the tools (minimal expense). Parts list included, but should be checked/modified for your specific model.

 

[Dee*Jay]

Ouch! Guessing the bulk was tires. Do anything special, or just go back OEM?

Oil changes on a 911 are naturally expensive because of the quantity of oil and quality of the parts, but $627 seems expensive. Many dealers are offering them for the $350+ range. Also, be careful with the "free" washes -- many times you get swirl marks in your paint.

Or if you don't mind getting your hands dirty, for $100 you can DIY after you buy the tools (minimal expense). Parts list included, but should be checked/modified for your specific model.

Yes, tires were the bulk of the bill. I’ve got Pirellis on there, summer performance. Love the way they are connected with the road, especially mid season when the road surface is hot hot hot!

As for the oil change price... when you live in downtown Chicago everything costs a bundle. I did actually call the dealer in Rockford, about an hour and a half outside the city, because I was having a hard time getting an appointment that worked with my schedule and the price was exactly the same. They have us over a barrel here in the metro market...

Thanks for the advice on the car wash. With the exception of the dealer I only go to a touch free car wash and I drive it dry, only using a shammie on the very rare drops that remain on the back when I’m done.

Vroom vroom!

 

[Dee*Jay]

Sledge, forgot to respond abt DIY. I can’t tell what model the 911 is in the screen shot (I don’t want to run the video here because it’s very quiet and people are working it reading) but I can tell it’s pre-991 based on the position of the mirror at the base of the A Pilar. (I imagine it’s likely a 997.) I think there was a change with the 991 that makes it significantly more difficult. I can’t recall at the moment but I’m happy to dig into it if you’re interested. I spent the first 17 summers of my life on a creeper under whatever my did was working on in the driveway and I love to get my hands dirty.